Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:38 AM - Throttle controle available (Lapsley R & Sandra E Caldwell)
2. 07:16 AM - Re: Lightning holes in ribs (Condon, Philip M.)
3. 12:14 PM - Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters (PSPRV6A@aol.com)
4. 01:41 PM - Re: Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters (Joseph Larson)
5. 02:10 PM - Re: Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters (jan)
6. 02:14 PM - Re: Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters (jan)
7. 02:18 PM - Re: Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters (Terry Watson)
8. 02:27 PM - Re: Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters (Tim Bryan)
9. 02:34 PM - Fly cutters (Sam Buchanan)
10. 02:46 PM - Re: Re: Lightning holes in ribs (David Burton)
11. 06:38 PM - Re: Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters (Gordon or Marge)
12. 08:43 PM - Brake Pedals (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
13. 09:22 PM - Re: Brake Pedals (Greg Williams)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Throttle controle available |
I have a 48 " long, 3 " throw vernier throttle control cable ( 1760).
It's yours for $35.00.
Roger Caldwell: lrsecaldwell@earthlink.net
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: Lightning holes in ribs |
Beg, borrow, rent or otherwise obtain some chassis punches or conduit
punches to do the holes. Edge lipping the punched holes helps in the
rigidity (over just a plain cut hole). The Fly cutter will hurt you,
especially doing hundreds of holes. I did a wing set via the punch and
a battery drill on slow to operate the punch. All done in one evening I
recall, and the edge lipping of the hole worked out....
.......................................................................
.....
Patrick Kelley wrote:
>
>That's a great idea; I wish I'd thought of it. I carefully did the
first
>rib and then used the stock I'd just removed to mark all the rest of
the
>ribs. Even then, I'd clamp the rib in place and rotate the fly cutter
by
>hand to check where it was cutting. By the way, that removed stock is
>useful for making small bits. Even the small holes yielded clamping
pads,
>bolt washers (for when I was bolting the longerons to the jig), and
shims.
>Waste nothing!
>
>Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - working on canopy frame
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
>Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 4:57 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs
>
>
>Scott wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes
need
>>to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for
>>accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly
>>cutter to do the cutting job.
>>
>>
>>
>
>Scott, measure the diameters of the lightening holes and make a set of
>round templates (cut out of poster board?) with a hole in the middle.
>Center a template on the rib in a lightening hole recess, make a mark
in
>the center hole with a Sharpie, and crank up the fly cutter.
>
>Be careful with the fly cutter, that thing can be deadly!
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters |
Fly cutter hints: Yes, The fly cutter can be a loose cannon, but done right
it can be tamed. First, mark all the centers carefully and drill (not with
the fly cutter) 1/4". Drill the ribs undersize and ream to 1/4" if you have a
reamer. Fit the fly cutter with a 1/4" SMOOTH pin NOT a drill bit. Grind the
cutter blade to a narrow cut, about .050 at its outer edge. Use only about a
7 degree clearance angle.
Set up a sturdy board clamped to your drill press table and drill about
15/64 and then "burn" to 1/4" with a smooth pin. A few drops of oil in the
hole will help. This will give a firm outboard pilot for fly-cutting. Now mount
up your fly cutter and float the SMOOTH pilot pin into the rib hole and into
the board. Clamp the rib to the board and only now start the drill press.
Use rather slow speed, but you may feed quite firmly until near breakthru. A
touch of oil will help but is not always needed. This makes fly cuttin a piece
of cake!
Good luck,. Paul S. Petersen
Minnetonka MN RV6A nearly complete with son Eric
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters |
You know, I never had a problem with my fly cutter, and I was a lot
less cautious than this. I normally run it on the slowest setting on
my drill press, but I even used it with a variable-speed hand drill.
With the hand drill, I was still careful and I went slowly.
When using a hand drill, you can feel when something isn't going
right and can adjust accordingly.
So, I'm not sure what the dangers are, as long as you respect the
tool. Did I just get lucky?
-Joe
On Sep 25, 2007, at 2:08 PM, PSPRV6A@aol.com wrote:
> Fly cutter hints: Yes, The fly cutter can be a loose cannon,
> but done right it can be tamed. First, mark all the centers
> carefully and drill (not with the fly cutter) 1/4". Drill the ribs
> undersize and ream to 1/4" if you have a reamer. Fit the fly
> cutter with a 1/4" SMOOTH pin NOT a drill bit. Grind the cutter
> blade to a narrow cut, about .050 at its outer edge. Use only
> about a 7 degree clearance angle.
> Set up a sturdy board clamped to your drill press table and
> drill about 15/64 and then "burn" to 1/4" with a smooth pin. A few
> drops of oil in the hole will help. This will give a firm outboard
> pilot for fly-cutting. Now mount up your fly cutter and float the
> SMOOTH pilot pin into the rib hole and into the board. Clamp the
> rib to the board and only now start the drill press. Use rather
> slow speed, but you may feed quite firmly until near breakthru. A
> touch of oil will help but is not always needed. This makes fly
> cuttin a piece of
> cake!
> Good luck,. Paul S. Petersen
>
> Minnetonka MN RV6A nearly complete with son Eric
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters |
You definitely got lucky ... A hand drill and a fly cutter does not go
together ..
Or maybe you are just shit hot with a fly cutter :-) ... I would go with the
method described below ... Its very similar to what I did when I did my RV6
spar and all my ribs... (not the tank ribs)
Photo show my cutter (the disk is removed) ...Slow speed and a back stop
for the rib / spar
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Larson
Sent: 25 September 2007 21:40
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters
You know, I never had a problem with my fly cutter, and I was a lot
less cautious than this. I normally run it on the slowest setting on
my drill press, but I even used it with a variable-speed hand drill.
With the hand drill, I was still careful and I went slowly.
When using a hand drill, you can feel when something isn't going
right and can adjust accordingly.
So, I'm not sure what the dangers are, as long as you respect the
tool. Did I just get lucky?
-Joe
On Sep 25, 2007, at 2:08 PM, PSPRV6A@aol.com wrote:
> Fly cutter hints: Yes, The fly cutter can be a loose cannon,
> but done right it can be tamed. First, mark all the centers
> carefully and drill (not with the fly cutter) 1/4". Drill the ribs
> undersize and ream to 1/4" if you have a reamer. Fit the fly
> cutter with a 1/4" SMOOTH pin NOT a drill bit. Grind the cutter
> blade to a narrow cut, about .050 at its outer edge. Use only
> about a 7 degree clearance angle.
> Set up a sturdy board clamped to your drill press table and
> drill about 15/64 and then "burn" to 1/4" with a smooth pin. A few
> drops of oil in the hole will help. This will give a firm outboard
> pilot for fly-cutting. Now mount up your fly cutter and float the
> SMOOTH pilot pin into the rib hole and into the board. Clamp the
> rib to the board and only now start the drill press. Use rather
> slow speed, but you may feed quite firmly until near breakthru. A
> touch of oil will help but is not always needed. This makes fly
> cuttin a piece of
> cake!
> Good luck,. Paul S. Petersen
>
> Minnetonka MN RV6A nearly complete with son Eric
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters |
A fast way to clean up the holes after cutting out the disk ...
Jan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Larson
Sent: 25 September 2007 21:40
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters
You know, I never had a problem with my fly cutter, and I was a lot
less cautious than this. I normally run it on the slowest setting on
my drill press, but I even used it with a variable-speed hand drill.
With the hand drill, I was still careful and I went slowly.
When using a hand drill, you can feel when something isn't going
right and can adjust accordingly.
So, I'm not sure what the dangers are, as long as you respect the
tool. Did I just get lucky?
-Joe
On Sep 25, 2007, at 2:08 PM, PSPRV6A@aol.com wrote:
> Fly cutter hints: Yes, The fly cutter can be a loose cannon,
> but done right it can be tamed. First, mark all the centers
> carefully and drill (not with the fly cutter) 1/4". Drill the ribs
> undersize and ream to 1/4" if you have a reamer. Fit the fly
> cutter with a 1/4" SMOOTH pin NOT a drill bit. Grind the cutter
> blade to a narrow cut, about .050 at its outer edge. Use only
> about a 7 degree clearance angle.
> Set up a sturdy board clamped to your drill press table and
> drill about 15/64 and then "burn" to 1/4" with a smooth pin. A few
> drops of oil in the hole will help. This will give a firm outboard
> pilot for fly-cutting. Now mount up your fly cutter and float the
> SMOOTH pilot pin into the rib hole and into the board. Clamp the
> rib to the board and only now start the drill press. Use rather
> slow speed, but you may feed quite firmly until near breakthru. A
> touch of oil will help but is not always needed. This makes fly
> cuttin a piece of
> cake!
> Good luck,. Paul S. Petersen
>
> Minnetonka MN RV6A nearly complete with son Eric
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters |
I find that a fly cutter can be safely used in an electric drill motor, IF
used carefully and IF you set the clutch to slip if it snags. I would be
very hesitant to try it with a big drill motor (lots of power) and no
clutch.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Larson
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters
You know, I never had a problem with my fly cutter, and I was a lot
less cautious than this. I normally run it on the slowest setting on
my drill press, but I even used it with a variable-speed hand drill.
With the hand drill, I was still careful and I went slowly.
When using a hand drill, you can feel when something isn't going
right and can adjust accordingly.
So, I'm not sure what the dangers are, as long as you respect the
tool. Did I just get lucky?
-Joe
On Sep 25, 2007, at 2:08 PM, PSPRV6A@aol.com wrote:
> Fly cutter hints: Yes, The fly cutter can be a loose cannon,
> but done right it can be tamed. First, mark all the centers
> carefully and drill (not with the fly cutter) 1/4". Drill the ribs
> undersize and ream to 1/4" if you have a reamer. Fit the fly
> cutter with a 1/4" SMOOTH pin NOT a drill bit. Grind the cutter
> blade to a narrow cut, about .050 at its outer edge. Use only
> about a 7 degree clearance angle.
> Set up a sturdy board clamped to your drill press table and
> drill about 15/64 and then "burn" to 1/4" with a smooth pin. A few
> drops of oil in the hole will help. This will give a firm outboard
> pilot for fly-cutting. Now mount up your fly cutter and float the
> SMOOTH pilot pin into the rib hole and into the board. Clamp the
> rib to the board and only now start the drill press. Use rather
> slow speed, but you may feed quite firmly until near breakthru. A
> touch of oil will help but is not always needed. This makes fly
> cuttin a piece of
> cake!
> Good luck,. Paul S. Petersen
>
> Minnetonka MN RV6A nearly complete with son Eric
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters |
Isn't a flycutter a series of high speed snags? About two per revolution.
Do Not Archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Watson
> Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 4:17 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters
>
>
> I find that a fly cutter can be safely used in an electric drill motor, IF
> used carefully and IF you set the clutch to slip if it snags. I would be
> very hesitant to try it with a big drill motor (lots of power) and no
> clutch.
>
> Terry
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Larson
> Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 1:40 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters
>
>
> You know, I never had a problem with my fly cutter, and I was a lot
> less cautious than this. I normally run it on the slowest setting on
> my drill press, but I even used it with a variable-speed hand drill.
> With the hand drill, I was still careful and I went slowly.
>
> When using a hand drill, you can feel when something isn't going
> right and can adjust accordingly.
>
> So, I'm not sure what the dangers are, as long as you respect the
> tool. Did I just get lucky?
>
> -Joe
>
> On Sep 25, 2007, at 2:08 PM, PSPRV6A@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Fly cutter hints: Yes, The fly cutter can be a loose cannon,
> > but done right it can be tamed. First, mark all the centers
> > carefully and drill (not with the fly cutter) 1/4". Drill the ribs
> > undersize and ream to 1/4" if you have a reamer. Fit the fly
> > cutter with a 1/4" SMOOTH pin NOT a drill bit. Grind the cutter
> > blade to a narrow cut, about .050 at its outer edge. Use only
> > about a 7 degree clearance angle.
> > Set up a sturdy board clamped to your drill press table and
> > drill about 15/64 and then "burn" to 1/4" with a smooth pin. A few
> > drops of oil in the hole will help. This will give a firm outboard
> > pilot for fly-cutting. Now mount up your fly cutter and float the
> > SMOOTH pilot pin into the rib hole and into the board. Clamp the
> > rib to the board and only now start the drill press. Use rather
> > slow speed, but you may feed quite firmly until near breakthru. A
> > touch of oil will help but is not always needed. This makes fly
> > cuttin a piece of
> > cake!
> > Good luck,. Paul S. Petersen
> >
> > Minnetonka MN RV6A nearly complete with son Eric
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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The following posted for the benefit of builders who have yet to use a
fly cutter:
Like all power tools, the fly cutter has the potential for being
extremely dangerous. What makes it particularly hazardous to RV builders
is that the project may be the first time a fly cutter has been
encountered by the builder. True, common sense will dramatically reduce
the odds of an accident, but when a fly cutter and the material being
cut gets loose, the results can be catastrophic.
Somewhere on the web a few years ago a photo circulated of a mangled
hand that had a most unfortunate encounter with a fly cutter. The points
presented in Paul's post below are certainly valid and detail a great
way to tame the fly cutter.
In my experience the two most common errors in using the fly cutter are
failing to TIGHTLY clamp the piece to the drill press table with a wood
backing and failure to use a SHARP fly cutter. If the cutter gets dull,
it WILL snag in the cut, hopefully stalling the drill press, but if the
work isn't tightly clamped, and the drill doesn't stall, the whole deal
becomes a whirling guillotine.
Another hazard is failing to stay clear of the cutter. Depending on the
speed of the drill press, the cutter bar can be nearly impossible to see
and dangling clothing or careless fingers can instantly be pulled into a
really bad situation.
Yep, a fly cutter can be used with a hand drill.....I've done it when
needing to add a hole to a panel in an assembled plane (didn't enjoy the
process, however), but this only increases the possibility of having an
accident. It is easy to let the cutter get less than perpendicular to
the work and then there are problems (see above).
So, be careful, work slowly, keep the work securely clamped and the
cutter sharp, and all should go well. Violate any of these guidelines,
and your building progress may be uninterrupted while you learn to use
fewer fingers.
Let's be careful. :-)
Sam Buchanan
=======================
Joseph Larson wrote:
>
> You know, I never had a problem with my fly cutter, and I was a lot less
> cautious than this. I normally run it on the slowest setting on my
> drill press, but I even used it with a variable-speed hand drill. With
> the hand drill, I was still careful and I went slowly.
>
> When using a hand drill, you can feel when something isn't going right
> and can adjust accordingly.
>
> So, I'm not sure what the dangers are, as long as you respect the tool.
> Did I just get lucky?
>
> -Joe
>
> On Sep 25, 2007, at 2:08 PM, PSPRV6A@aol.com wrote:
>
>> Fly cutter hints: Yes, The fly cutter can be a loose cannon, but
>> done right it can be tamed. First, mark all the centers carefully and
>> drill (not with the fly cutter) 1/4". Drill the ribs undersize and
>> ream to 1/4" if you have a reamer. Fit the fly cutter with a 1/4"
>> SMOOTH pin NOT a drill bit. Grind the cutter blade to a narrow cut,
>> about .050 at its outer edge. Use only about a 7 degree clearance angle.
>> Set up a sturdy board clamped to your drill press table and drill
>> about 15/64 and then "burn" to 1/4" with a smooth pin. A few drops of
>> oil in the hole will help. This will give a firm outboard pilot for
>> fly-cutting. Now mount up your fly cutter and float the SMOOTH pilot
>> pin into the rib hole and into the board. Clamp the rib to the board
>> and only now start the drill press. Use rather slow speed, but you
>> may feed quite firmly until near breakthru. A touch of oil will help
>> but is not always needed. This makes fly cuttin a piece of
>> cake!
>> Good luck,. Paul S. Petersen
>>
>> Minnetonka MN RV6A nearly complete with son Eric
Message 10
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| Subject: | RE: Lightning holes in ribs |
>Beg, borrow, rent or otherwise obtain some chassis punches or conduit
>punches to do the holes.
I did my smaller holes this way. I didn't have large enough punches to do
them all. The rib material is thin enough that it goes pretty quickly with
a fly cutter. On a Van's kit the ribs have pressed in raised rings that you
leave in place when you cut the lightening holes out leaving you a nice
reinforcing flange. I also used a punch to do my conduit holes. That made
short work of those and it leaves a great hole without a burr.
Dave
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters |
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters
Fly cutter hints: Yes, The fly cutter can be a loose cannon, but
done
right it can be tamed. First, mark all the centers carefully and drill
(not
with the fly cutter) 1/4". Drill the ribs undersize and ream to 1/4" if
you
have a reamer. Fit the fly cutter with a 1/4" SMOOTH pin NOT a drill
bit.
Grind the cutter blade to a narrow cut, about .050 at its outer edge.
Use
only about a 7 degree clearance angle.
Minnetonka MN RV6A nearly complete with son Eric
Better yet is a flycutter with a 3/8" integral pilot. Stanley makes
(made)
one. Works very well.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 12
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My pedals are the aluminum part supplied by Van. I drilled a number of
holes (around one inch) to lighten the weight and then buffed the aluminum with
Scotch Bright. The buffed aluminum looks beautiful, even after 250 hours.
Not a mark on them. Paint, even powder coating, will scuff off. I also made
foot rests (fastened to the two outside vertical bars of the rudder) in the
same manner. You can see part of my brake pedals if you enlarge the panel
picture of my airplane at _www.petesrvaviationproducts.com_
(http://www.petesrvaviationproducts.com) .
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6, SnF Reserve Grand Champion, Outstanding aircraft award
All electric panel
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Pedals |
Pete, Do you have any pics of your aluminum trays that keep the water from
your instruments?
Greg
RV-7 tipup all electric panel
On 9/25/07, PeterHunt1@aol.com <PeterHunt1@aol.com> wrote:
>
> My pedals are the aluminum part supplied by Van. I drilled a number of
> holes (around one inch) to lighten the weight and then buffed the
> aluminum with Scotch Bright. The buffed aluminum looks beautiful, even
> after 250 hours. Not a mark on them. Paint, even powder coating,
> will scuff off. I also made foot rests (fastened to the two outside
> vertical bars of the rudder) in the same manner. You can see part of my
> brake pedals if you enlarge the panel picture of my airplane at
> www.petesrvaviationproducts.com.
>
> Pete in Clearwater
> RV-6, SnF Reserve Grand Champion, Outstanding aircraft award
> All electric panel
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Se69" target="_blank">Make AOL Your Homepage.
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
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