Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:46 AM - Re: HVLP Questions (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
2. 03:42 AM - Re: HVLP Questions (Scott)
3. 04:07 AM - Re: Nashville Airports (Tim Bryan)
4. 07:00 AM - Re: HVLP Questions (Tim Bryan)
5. 07:34 AM - Re: HVLP Questions (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
6. 07:42 AM - Re: HVLP Questions (Tim Bryan)
7. 10:57 AM - for sale: RV9 tail kit (John Harrison)
8. 01:41 PM - Top forward skin help. (Carl Bell)
9. 02:41 PM - Re: Top forward skin help. (Richard Seiders)
10. 02:44 PM - Re: Top forward skin help. (Bob Collins)
11. 03:05 PM - Re: Top forward skin help. (Steve)
12. 03:09 PM - Re: Top forward skin help. (Steven Eberhart)
13. 07:47 PM - Re: Re: Top forward skin help. (Bobby Hester)
14. 11:41 PM - Looking for RV-4 Rudder (Paul Besing)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after every use.
Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also become brittle over
time and can shatter with a solid hit from something. If it's permanent, use
type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will last forever. It's also
rated for compressed air.
Michael Sausen
Rv-10
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
Scott,
Glad that I could help out. One thing that is Critical to the life of any
HVLP gun is to clean it immediately after use. I buy 5 gal cans of lacquer
thinner at a discount paint shop/auto body shop and run 3x 1/2 cups of
lacquer thinner through it after each use. Thoroughly wipe out the cup with
a clean paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner and the nozzle. Let it air
dry before putting it away. If you maintain your equipment, it will last
forever. I have one HVLP gun that is 3 years old and shoots as good as day
one. The outside ain't so pretty but the guts are spotless. Most people
don't take care of their guns properly and then cuss them when they fail.
Also you can plumb your shop with HIGH pressure PVC pipe and not cast iron,
same isle as the regular PVC water pipe, just look for High Pressure
HOT/COLD on the PVC. Regular or High PVC cement.
Good luck,
Mike H 9A, 8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott" <acepilot@bloomer.net>
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
> Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around...
>
> Scott
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
>
>
> mike humphrey wrote:
>
>> <mike109g6@insideconnect.net>
>>
>> Bob,
>> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less, overspray,
>> and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$.
>> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any brand.
>> I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand up
>> compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor Supply
>> Co. near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot, Lowe's
>> will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking for
>> on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single stage
>> 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air tool
>> that you have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog it
>> down.
>> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in the
>> world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat,
>> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed is
>> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could get
>> it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are
>> quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have tons of
>> stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop before
>> laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your bucks.
>> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's club
>> no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when on
>> sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with
>> two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder.
>> Hope that this all helped,
>> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big or
>> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint.
>> You are right-no inline oiler.
>> Mike H 9A, 8A
>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Questions |
All good advice. I have no plans to plumb my shop with air though. I
just drag the air hose around to where I need it...
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after every use.
Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also become brittle over
time and can shatter with a solid hit from something. If it's permanent,
use type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will last forever. It's also
rated for compressed air.
>
>Michael Sausen
>Rv-10
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Nashville Airports |
Hi Parker,
Thanks for your input on this. It sound like I will be flying into Tune as
many others have given great info also.
Thanks again
Tim
Do Not Archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Parker Thomas
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 10:58 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Nashville Airports
>
>
> Tim -
>
> I flew into Nashville several years ago in my RV-8. Tune is a nice little
> airport (I got my pilots license there), but I ruled it out because I
> couldn't get a rental car there. If you can, it is great because it is
> right near an interstate that can whisk you downtown or to tourist
> attractions, etc. It is not very difficult to get to if you can read
> interstate signs. I landed at BNA and used one of the FBO's. It worked
> fine - no problems with tiedowns, fees weren't expensive, etc. They
> dropped
> me at the rental car counter with no trouble. Smyrna is fine too, but it
> is
> a little farther out than the other two.
>
> Hope that helps. If you need any suggestions about where to go, contact
> me
> off list. I grew up there.
>
> Parker
> ____________________________________
> F. Parker Thomas
> me@parkerthomas.com
> www.parkerthomas.com
> Phone 510-393-9876
> Fax 510-225-2358
>
>
>
>
> >
> > I am posting this again because it never came through on the email list.
> >
> > My wife and I are planning to fly to Nashville for our anniversary in a
> > couple of weeks. I see there are two airports besides the International
> > airport (BNA). John C. Tune (JWN) and Cornelia (M88). Could someone
> from
> > this area tell me which would be the most RV (RV related post) friendly
> > airport between these two? We will be in town for 4 days.
> >
> > Any comments appreciated
> > Tim
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
My last shop was plumbed with high pressure pvc pipe and I did have a blow
out. I was in the shop when it happened and it took a few years off my
life. Shrapnel was everywhere and damaged a couple of things but nothing
major. If anyone wants to plumb the shop I would recommend this product:
http://nibco.com/cms.do?id=2&pId=14
It is PVC and rated for compressed air. It isn't quite as cheap as regular
o'l pvc but still not bad and glues together the same. It is green and they
have great fittings for doing air. I used it and had T fittings pointing up
for each drop. Then they have a 180 degree short bend that allows you to go
from the T fitting down to your coupling. This is great because any water
in your pipe is not dropped to your fittings but rather continues down the
run to the end where you can place a separator.
Good stuff and much safer.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 7:40 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after
> every use. Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also
> become brittle over time and can shatter with a solid hit from something.
> If it's permanent, use type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will
> last forever. It's also rated for compressed air.
>
> Michael Sausen
> Rv-10
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:00 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
> <mike109g6@insideconnect.net>
>
> Scott,
> Glad that I could help out. One thing that is Critical to the life of any
> HVLP gun is to clean it immediately after use. I buy 5 gal cans of
> lacquer
> thinner at a discount paint shop/auto body shop and run 3x 1/2 cups of
> lacquer thinner through it after each use. Thoroughly wipe out the cup
> with
> a clean paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner and the nozzle. Let it air
> dry before putting it away. If you maintain your equipment, it will last
> forever. I have one HVLP gun that is 3 years old and shoots as good as
> day
> one. The outside ain't so pretty but the guts are spotless. Most people
> don't take care of their guns properly and then cuss them when they fail.
> Also you can plumb your shop with HIGH pressure PVC pipe and not cast
> iron,
> same isle as the regular PVC water pipe, just look for High Pressure
> HOT/COLD on the PVC. Regular or High PVC cement.
> Good luck,
> Mike H 9A, 8A
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott" <acepilot@bloomer.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:46 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
>
> >
> > Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around...
> >
> > Scott
> > http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> > Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> > Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
> >
> >
> >
> > mike humphrey wrote:
> >
> >> <mike109g6@insideconnect.net>
> >>
> >> Bob,
> >> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less, overspray,
> >> and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$.
> >> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any
> brand.
> >> I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand up
> >> compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor Supply
> >> Co. near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot,
> Lowe's
> >> will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking
> for
> >> on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single stage
> >> 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air
> tool
> >> that you have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog it
> >> down.
> >> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in
> the
> >> world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat,
> >> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed is
> >> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could get
> >> it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are
> >> quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have tons of
> >> stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop before
> >> laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your bucks.
> >> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's
> club
> >> no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when on
> >> sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with
> >> two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder.
> >> Hope that this all helped,
> >> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big or
> >> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint.
> >> You are right-no inline oiler.
> >> Mike H 9A, 8A
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Just for clarification, this stuff looks to be ABS and not PVC.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 8:59 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
My last shop was plumbed with high pressure pvc pipe and I did have a blow
out. I was in the shop when it happened and it took a few years off my
life. Shrapnel was everywhere and damaged a couple of things but nothing
major. If anyone wants to plumb the shop I would recommend this product:
http://nibco.com/cms.do?id=2&pId=14
It is PVC and rated for compressed air. It isn't quite as cheap as regular
o'l pvc but still not bad and glues together the same. It is green and they
have great fittings for doing air. I used it and had T fittings pointing up
for each drop. Then they have a 180 degree short bend that allows you to go
from the T fitting down to your coupling. This is great because any water
in your pipe is not dropped to your fittings but rather continues down the
run to the end where you can place a separator.
Good stuff and much safer.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 7:40 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after
> every use. Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also
> become brittle over time and can shatter with a solid hit from something.
> If it's permanent, use type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will
> last forever. It's also rated for compressed air.
>
> Michael Sausen
> Rv-10
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:00 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
> <mike109g6@insideconnect.net>
>
> Scott,
> Glad that I could help out. One thing that is Critical to the life of any
> HVLP gun is to clean it immediately after use. I buy 5 gal cans of
> lacquer
> thinner at a discount paint shop/auto body shop and run 3x 1/2 cups of
> lacquer thinner through it after each use. Thoroughly wipe out the cup
> with
> a clean paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner and the nozzle. Let it air
> dry before putting it away. If you maintain your equipment, it will last
> forever. I have one HVLP gun that is 3 years old and shoots as good as
> day
> one. The outside ain't so pretty but the guts are spotless. Most people
> don't take care of their guns properly and then cuss them when they fail.
> Also you can plumb your shop with HIGH pressure PVC pipe and not cast
> iron,
> same isle as the regular PVC water pipe, just look for High Pressure
> HOT/COLD on the PVC. Regular or High PVC cement.
> Good luck,
> Mike H 9A, 8A
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott" <acepilot@bloomer.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:46 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
>
> >
> > Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around...
> >
> > Scott
> > http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> > Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> > Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
> >
> >
> >
> > mike humphrey wrote:
> >
> >> <mike109g6@insideconnect.net>
> >>
> >> Bob,
> >> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less, overspray,
> >> and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$.
> >> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any
> brand.
> >> I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand up
> >> compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor Supply
> >> Co. near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot,
> Lowe's
> >> will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking
> for
> >> on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single stage
> >> 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air
> tool
> >> that you have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog it
> >> down.
> >> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in
> the
> >> world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat,
> >> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed is
> >> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could get
> >> it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are
> >> quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have tons of
> >> stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop before
> >> laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your bucks.
> >> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's
> club
> >> no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when on
> >> sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with
> >> two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder.
> >> Hope that this all helped,
> >> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big or
> >> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint.
> >> You are right-no inline oiler.
> >> Mike H 9A, 8A
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Right you are as I didn't realize the difference. I generalized. oops!
Tim
Do Not Archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 9:26 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Just for clarification, this stuff looks to be ABS and not PVC.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 8:59 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
>
> My last shop was plumbed with high pressure pvc pipe and I did have a blow
> out. I was in the shop when it happened and it took a few years off my
> life. Shrapnel was everywhere and damaged a couple of things but nothing
> major. If anyone wants to plumb the shop I would recommend this product:
>
> http://nibco.com/cms.do?id=2&pId=14
>
> It is PVC and rated for compressed air. It isn't quite as cheap as
> regular
> o'l pvc but still not bad and glues together the same. It is green and
> they
> have great fittings for doing air. I used it and had T fittings pointing
> up
> for each drop. Then they have a 180 degree short bend that allows you to
> go
> from the T fitting down to your coupling. This is great because any water
> in your pipe is not dropped to your fittings but rather continues down the
> run to the end where you can place a separator.
>
> Good stuff and much safer.
> Tim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 7:40 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
> >
> > <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
> >
> > If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after
> > every use. Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also
> > become brittle over time and can shatter with a solid hit from
> something.
> > If it's permanent, use type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will
> > last forever. It's also rated for compressed air.
> >
> > Michael Sausen
> > Rv-10
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:00 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
> >
> > <mike109g6@insideconnect.net>
> >
> > Scott,
> > Glad that I could help out. One thing that is Critical to the life of
> any
> > HVLP gun is to clean it immediately after use. I buy 5 gal cans of
> > lacquer
> > thinner at a discount paint shop/auto body shop and run 3x 1/2 cups of
> > lacquer thinner through it after each use. Thoroughly wipe out the cup
> > with
> > a clean paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner and the nozzle. Let it
> air
> > dry before putting it away. If you maintain your equipment, it will
> last
> > forever. I have one HVLP gun that is 3 years old and shoots as good as
> > day
> > one. The outside ain't so pretty but the guts are spotless. Most
> people
> > don't take care of their guns properly and then cuss them when they
> fail.
> > Also you can plumb your shop with HIGH pressure PVC pipe and not cast
> > iron,
> > same isle as the regular PVC water pipe, just look for High Pressure
> > HOT/COLD on the PVC. Regular or High PVC cement.
> > Good luck,
> > Mike H 9A, 8A
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Scott" <acepilot@bloomer.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:46 AM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around...
> > >
> > > Scott
> > > http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> > > Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> > > Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > mike humphrey wrote:
> > >
> > >> <mike109g6@insideconnect.net>
> > >>
> > >> Bob,
> > >> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less,
> overspray,
> > >> and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$.
> > >> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any
> > brand.
> > >> I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand
> up
> > >> compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor
> Supply
> > >> Co. near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot,
> > Lowe's
> > >> will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking
> > for
> > >> on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single
> stage
> > >> 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air
> > tool
> > >> that you have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog
> it
> > >> down.
> > >> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in
> > the
> > >> world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat,
> > >> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed
> is
> > >> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could
> get
> > >> it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are
> > >> quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have tons
> of
> > >> stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop
> before
> > >> laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your bucks.
> > >> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's
> > club
> > >> no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when
> on
> > >> sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with
> > >> two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder.
> > >> Hope that this all helped,
> > >> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big
> or
> > >> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint.
> > >> You are right-no inline oiler.
> > >> Mike H 9A, 8A
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | for sale: RV9 tail kit |
For sale: RV9 tail kit with electric trim. I am located in a western suburb
of Chicago. I can't pack it so someone will have to be in driving distance.
I also bought the Cleaveland tool kit for RV's including a pneumatic
squeezer. The tools are barely used. $1300 for the tail kit and $2100 for
tools. More info: jharrison46atgmaildotcom
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Top forward skin help. |
Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward top
skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it around
some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the rounded edge of
a table. It is just the last two inches that can't be realistically pulled
down with clecos, and I don't want it lifting off the longeron between
rivets. Thx Carl
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Top forward skin help. |
Precurling the horizontal edge with an edge rolling tool helps quite
a bit on the 6. Don't see why it shouldn't on the 7.
Dick RV6A
At 04:37 PM 10/3/2007, you wrote:
>Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106
>(forward top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I
>pre-bend it around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend
>it over the rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches
>that can't be realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don't
>want it lifting off the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Top forward skin help. |
I've done both of those things, Carl -- rolled the skin and used the edge roller.
But I also bought some wingnut clecos and those work great.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137919#137919
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Top forward skin help. |
Carl,
That is a tough edge to get to lay flat. I found standard clecos in
every rivet hole would still not pull it completely flat along the
longeron. There was still some puckering between the clecos. Wing nut
clecos did pull it in.
Here's what I did:
Crease the edge with Avery's edge rolling tool (or whatever tool works
for you): http://www.averytools.com/pc-45-70-edge-rolling-tool.aspx. Put
a cleco in EVERY hole (unless it interferes with the rivet gun). Use
wing nut clecos on the adjacent holes while riveting. Make sure to push
the rivet gun onto the skin hard enough to push the top skin edge flat
(may require someone pushing on the opposite side of the fuselage to
keep it from sliding sideways).
Mine came out without any puckering between rivets.
good luck,
Steve Allison
RV-6A
Carl Bell wrote:
>
> Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward
> top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it
> around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the
> rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that cant be
> realistically pulled down with clecos, and I dont want it lifting off
> the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Top forward skin help. |
I had the same concerns but doing nothing worked for me. The top skin
snugged right in there when we riveted it. My concern was not warranted
as I am very pleased with the results.
Steve Eberhart - RV-7A Slider, just riveted the forward top skin a week
and a half ago. Working on canopy now.
Carl Bell wrote:
>
> Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward
> top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it
> around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the
> rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that cant be
> realistically pulled down with clecos, and I dont want it lifting off
> the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Top forward skin help. |
I did the same thing! Worked great!
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Bob Collins wrote:
>
> I've done both of those things, Carl -- rolled the skin and used the edge roller.
>
> But I also bought some wingnut clecos and those work great.
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> Letters from Flyover Country
> http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137919#137919
>
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Looking for RV-4 Rudder |
Anyone have a spare RV-4 rudder, either complete or kit?=0A=0APaul Besing
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A____________________________________________
________________________________________=0AMoody friends. Drama queens. You
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|