Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:38 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 10/03/07 (Brian Fowler)
2. 06:39 AM - Re: Top forward skin help. (George, Neal E Capt MIL USAF 605TES/TSI)
3. 06:47 AM - Re: Re: Top forward skin help. (Carl Bell)
4. 10:11 AM - Re: Top forward skin help. (Carl Bell)
5. 01:13 PM - New Flight Bags... (kirt klevin)
6. 01:56 PM - Re: Top forward skin help. (Jim Jewell)
7. 02:37 PM - Re: Re: Top forward skin help. (Carl Bell)
8. 03:48 PM - Cuban 8 practice questions (Dale Walter)
9. 04:36 PM - Re: Cuban 8 practice questions (SteinAir, Inc.)
10. 06:13 PM - WTB: rv-3 or rv-4 project (tailwheelbill)
11. 07:03 PM - Brake caliper bleed fitting. (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
12. 07:39 PM - Re: Brake caliper bleed fitting. (c.ennis)
13. 07:46 PM - Re: Brake caliper bleed fitting. (Denis Walsh)
14. 07:48 PM - Re: Brake caliper bleed fitting. (Dale Ensing)
15. 09:32 PM - Re: Cuban 8 practice questions (Vince-Himsl)
16. 10:16 PM - Re: Cuban 8 practice questions (linn Walters)
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| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 10/03/07 |
Please unsubscribe me from this mailing list
Thanks,
Brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV-List Digest
Server
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 2:58 AM
Subject: RV-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 10/03/07
*
=================================================
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RV-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Wed 10/03/07: 14
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:46 AM - Re: HVLP Questions (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
2. 03:42 AM - Re: HVLP Questions (Scott)
3. 04:07 AM - Re: Nashville Airports (Tim Bryan)
4. 07:00 AM - Re: HVLP Questions (Tim Bryan)
5. 07:34 AM - Re: HVLP Questions (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
6. 07:42 AM - Re: HVLP Questions (Tim Bryan)
7. 10:57 AM - for sale: RV9 tail kit (John Harrison)
8. 01:41 PM - Top forward skin help. (Carl Bell)
9. 02:41 PM - Re: Top forward skin help. (Richard Seiders)
10. 02:44 PM - Re: Top forward skin help. (Bob Collins)
11. 03:05 PM - Re: Top forward skin help. (Steve)
12. 03:09 PM - Re: Top forward skin help. (Steven Eberhart)
13. 07:47 PM - Re: Re: Top forward skin help. (Bobby Hester)
14. 11:41 PM - Looking for RV-4 Rudder (Paul Besing)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Time: 01:46:29 AM PST US
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after every
use.
Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also become brittle
over
time and can shatter with a solid hit from something. If it's permanent,
use
type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will last forever. It's also
rated for compressed air.
Michael Sausen
Rv-10
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
Scott,
Glad that I could help out. One thing that is Critical to the life of any
HVLP gun is to clean it immediately after use. I buy 5 gal cans of lacquer
thinner at a discount paint shop/auto body shop and run 3x 1/2 cups of
lacquer thinner through it after each use. Thoroughly wipe out the cup with
a clean paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner and the nozzle. Let it air
dry before putting it away. If you maintain your equipment, it will last
forever. I have one HVLP gun that is 3 years old and shoots as good as day
one. The outside ain't so pretty but the guts are spotless. Most people
don't take care of their guns properly and then cuss them when they fail.
Also you can plumb your shop with HIGH pressure PVC pipe and not cast iron,
same isle as the regular PVC water pipe, just look for High Pressure
HOT/COLD on the PVC. Regular or High PVC cement.
Good luck,
Mike H 9A, 8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott" <acepilot@bloomer.net>
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
> Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around...
>
> Scott
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
>
>
> mike humphrey wrote:
>
>> <mike109g6@insideconnect.net>
>>
>> Bob,
>> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less, overspray,
>> and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$.
>> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any brand.
>> I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand up
>> compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor Supply
>> Co. near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot, Lowe's
>> will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking for
>> on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single stage
>> 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air tool
>> that you have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog it
>> down.
>> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in the
>> world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat,
>> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed is
>> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could get
>> it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are
>> quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have tons of
>> stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop before
>> laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your bucks.
>> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's club
>> no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when on
>> sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with
>> two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder.
>> Hope that this all helped,
>> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big or
>> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint.
>> You are right-no inline oiler.
>> Mike H 9A, 8A
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Time: 03:42:41 AM PST US
From: Scott <acepilot@bloomer.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
All good advice. I have no plans to plumb my shop with air though. I
just drag the air hose around to where I need it...
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after every
use.
Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also become brittle
over
time and can shatter with a solid hit from something. If it's permanent,
use type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will last forever. It's
also
rated for compressed air.
>
>Michael Sausen
>Rv-10
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
Time: 04:07:26 AM PST US
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Nashville Airports
Hi Parker,
Thanks for your input on this. It sound like I will be flying into Tune as
many others have given great info also.
Thanks again
Tim
Do Not Archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Parker Thomas
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 10:58 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Nashville Airports
>
>
> Tim -
>
> I flew into Nashville several years ago in my RV-8. Tune is a nice little
> airport (I got my pilots license there), but I ruled it out because I
> couldn't get a rental car there. If you can, it is great because it is
> right near an interstate that can whisk you downtown or to tourist
> attractions, etc. It is not very difficult to get to if you can read
> interstate signs. I landed at BNA and used one of the FBO's. It worked
> fine - no problems with tiedowns, fees weren't expensive, etc. They
> dropped
> me at the rental car counter with no trouble. Smyrna is fine too, but it
> is
> a little farther out than the other two.
>
> Hope that helps. If you need any suggestions about where to go, contact
> me
> off list. I grew up there.
>
> Parker
> ____________________________________
> F. Parker Thomas
> me@parkerthomas.com
> www.parkerthomas.com
> Phone 510-393-9876
> Fax 510-225-2358
>
>
>
>
> >
> > I am posting this again because it never came through on the email list.
> >
> > My wife and I are planning to fly to Nashville for our anniversary in a
> > couple of weeks. I see there are two airports besides the International
> > airport (BNA). John C. Tune (JWN) and Cornelia (M88). Could someone
> from
> > this area tell me which would be the most RV (RV related post) friendly
> > airport between these two? We will be in town for 4 days.
> >
> > Any comments appreciated
> > Tim
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
Time: 07:00:13 AM PST US
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
My last shop was plumbed with high pressure pvc pipe and I did have a blow
out. I was in the shop when it happened and it took a few years off my
life. Shrapnel was everywhere and damaged a couple of things but nothing
major. If anyone wants to plumb the shop I would recommend this product:
http://nibco.com/cms.do?id=2&pId=14
It is PVC and rated for compressed air. It isn't quite as cheap as regular
o'l pvc but still not bad and glues together the same. It is green and they
have great fittings for doing air. I used it and had T fittings pointing up
for each drop. Then they have a 180 degree short bend that allows you to go
from the T fitting down to your coupling. This is great because any water
in your pipe is not dropped to your fittings but rather continues down the
run to the end where you can place a separator.
Good stuff and much safer.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 7:40 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after
> every use. Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also
> become brittle over time and can shatter with a solid hit from something.
> If it's permanent, use type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will
> last forever. It's also rated for compressed air.
>
> Michael Sausen
> Rv-10
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:00 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
> <mike109g6@insideconnect.net>
>
> Scott,
> Glad that I could help out. One thing that is Critical to the life of any
> HVLP gun is to clean it immediately after use. I buy 5 gal cans of
> lacquer
> thinner at a discount paint shop/auto body shop and run 3x 1/2 cups of
> lacquer thinner through it after each use. Thoroughly wipe out the cup
> with
> a clean paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner and the nozzle. Let it air
> dry before putting it away. If you maintain your equipment, it will last
> forever. I have one HVLP gun that is 3 years old and shoots as good as
> day
> one. The outside ain't so pretty but the guts are spotless. Most people
> don't take care of their guns properly and then cuss them when they fail.
> Also you can plumb your shop with HIGH pressure PVC pipe and not cast
> iron,
> same isle as the regular PVC water pipe, just look for High Pressure
> HOT/COLD on the PVC. Regular or High PVC cement.
> Good luck,
> Mike H 9A, 8A
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott" <acepilot@bloomer.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:46 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
>
> >
> > Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around...
> >
> > Scott
> > http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> > Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> > Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
> >
> >
> >
> > mike humphrey wrote:
> >
> >> <mike109g6@insideconnect.net>
> >>
> >> Bob,
> >> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less, overspray,
> >> and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$.
> >> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any
> brand.
> >> I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand up
> >> compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor Supply
> >> Co. near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot,
> Lowe's
> >> will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking
> for
> >> on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single stage
> >> 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air
> tool
> >> that you have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog it
> >> down.
> >> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in
> the
> >> world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat,
> >> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed is
> >> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could get
> >> it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are
> >> quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have tons of
> >> stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop before
> >> laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your bucks.
> >> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's
> club
> >> no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when on
> >> sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with
> >> two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder.
> >> Hope that this all helped,
> >> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big or
> >> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint.
> >> You are right-no inline oiler.
> >> Mike H 9A, 8A
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
Time: 07:34:44 AM PST US
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
Just for clarification, this stuff looks to be ABS and not PVC.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 8:59 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
My last shop was plumbed with high pressure pvc pipe and I did have a blow
out. I was in the shop when it happened and it took a few years off my
life. Shrapnel was everywhere and damaged a couple of things but nothing
major. If anyone wants to plumb the shop I would recommend this product:
http://nibco.com/cms.do?id=2&pId=14
It is PVC and rated for compressed air. It isn't quite as cheap as regular
o'l pvc but still not bad and glues together the same. It is green and they
have great fittings for doing air. I used it and had T fittings pointing up
for each drop. Then they have a 180 degree short bend that allows you to go
from the T fitting down to your coupling. This is great because any water
in your pipe is not dropped to your fittings but rather continues down the
run to the end where you can place a separator.
Good stuff and much safer.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 7:40 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after
> every use. Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also
> become brittle over time and can shatter with a solid hit from something.
> If it's permanent, use type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will
> last forever. It's also rated for compressed air.
>
> Michael Sausen
> Rv-10
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:00 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
> <mike109g6@insideconnect.net>
>
> Scott,
> Glad that I could help out. One thing that is Critical to the life of any
> HVLP gun is to clean it immediately after use. I buy 5 gal cans of
> lacquer
> thinner at a discount paint shop/auto body shop and run 3x 1/2 cups of
> lacquer thinner through it after each use. Thoroughly wipe out the cup
> with
> a clean paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner and the nozzle. Let it air
> dry before putting it away. If you maintain your equipment, it will last
> forever. I have one HVLP gun that is 3 years old and shoots as good as
> day
> one. The outside ain't so pretty but the guts are spotless. Most people
> don't take care of their guns properly and then cuss them when they fail.
> Also you can plumb your shop with HIGH pressure PVC pipe and not cast
> iron,
> same isle as the regular PVC water pipe, just look for High Pressure
> HOT/COLD on the PVC. Regular or High PVC cement.
> Good luck,
> Mike H 9A, 8A
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott" <acepilot@bloomer.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:46 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
>
> >
> > Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around...
> >
> > Scott
> > http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> > Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> > Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
> >
> >
> >
> > mike humphrey wrote:
> >
> >> <mike109g6@insideconnect.net>
> >>
> >> Bob,
> >> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less, overspray,
> >> and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$.
> >> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any
> brand.
> >> I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand up
> >> compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor Supply
> >> Co. near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot,
> Lowe's
> >> will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking
> for
> >> on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single stage
> >> 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air
> tool
> >> that you have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog it
> >> down.
> >> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in
> the
> >> world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat,
> >> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed is
> >> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could get
> >> it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are
> >> quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have tons of
> >> stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop before
> >> laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your bucks.
> >> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's
> club
> >> no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when on
> >> sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with
> >> two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder.
> >> Hope that this all helped,
> >> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big or
> >> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint.
> >> You are right-no inline oiler.
> >> Mike H 9A, 8A
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
Time: 07:42:28 AM PST US
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
Right you are as I didn't realize the difference. I generalized. oops!
Tim
Do Not Archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 9:26 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Just for clarification, this stuff looks to be ABS and not PVC.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 8:59 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
>
> My last shop was plumbed with high pressure pvc pipe and I did have a blow
> out. I was in the shop when it happened and it took a few years off my
> life. Shrapnel was everywhere and damaged a couple of things but nothing
> major. If anyone wants to plumb the shop I would recommend this product:
>
> http://nibco.com/cms.do?id=2&pId=14
>
> It is PVC and rated for compressed air. It isn't quite as cheap as
> regular
> o'l pvc but still not bad and glues together the same. It is green and
> they
> have great fittings for doing air. I used it and had T fittings pointing
> up
> for each drop. Then they have a 180 degree short bend that allows you to
> go
> from the T fitting down to your coupling. This is great because any water
> in your pipe is not dropped to your fittings but rather continues down the
> run to the end where you can place a separator.
>
> Good stuff and much safer.
> Tim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 7:40 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
> >
> > <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
> >
> > If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after
> > every use. Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also
> > become brittle over time and can shatter with a solid hit from
> something.
> > If it's permanent, use type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will
> > last forever. It's also rated for compressed air.
> >
> > Michael Sausen
> > Rv-10
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:00 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
> >
> > <mike109g6@insideconnect.net>
> >
> > Scott,
> > Glad that I could help out. One thing that is Critical to the life of
> any
> > HVLP gun is to clean it immediately after use. I buy 5 gal cans of
> > lacquer
> > thinner at a discount paint shop/auto body shop and run 3x 1/2 cups of
> > lacquer thinner through it after each use. Thoroughly wipe out the cup
> > with
> > a clean paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner and the nozzle. Let it
> air
> > dry before putting it away. If you maintain your equipment, it will
> last
> > forever. I have one HVLP gun that is 3 years old and shoots as good as
> > day
> > one. The outside ain't so pretty but the guts are spotless. Most
> people
> > don't take care of their guns properly and then cuss them when they
> fail.
> > Also you can plumb your shop with HIGH pressure PVC pipe and not cast
> > iron,
> > same isle as the regular PVC water pipe, just look for High Pressure
> > HOT/COLD on the PVC. Regular or High PVC cement.
> > Good luck,
> > Mike H 9A, 8A
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Scott" <acepilot@bloomer.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:46 AM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around...
> > >
> > > Scott
> > > http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> > > Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> > > Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > mike humphrey wrote:
> > >
> > >> <mike109g6@insideconnect.net>
> > >>
> > >> Bob,
> > >> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less,
> overspray,
> > >> and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$.
> > >> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any
> > brand.
> > >> I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand
> up
> > >> compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor
> Supply
> > >> Co. near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot,
> > Lowe's
> > >> will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking
> > for
> > >> on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single
> stage
> > >> 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air
> > tool
> > >> that you have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog
> it
> > >> down.
> > >> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in
> > the
> > >> world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat,
> > >> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed
> is
> > >> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could
> get
> > >> it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are
> > >> quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have tons
> of
> > >> stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop
> before
> > >> laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your bucks.
> > >> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's
> > club
> > >> no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when
> on
> > >> sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with
> > >> two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder.
> > >> Hope that this all helped,
> > >> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big
> or
> > >> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint.
> > >> You are right-no inline oiler.
> > >> Mike H 9A, 8A
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 7
_____________________________________
Time: 10:57:54 AM PST US
From: "John Harrison" <jharrison46@gmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: for sale: RV9 tail kit
For sale: RV9 tail kit with electric trim. I am located in a western suburb
of Chicago. I can't pack it so someone will have to be in driving distance.
I also bought the Cleaveland tool kit for RV's including a pneumatic
squeezer. The tools are barely used. $1300 for the tail kit and $2100 for
tools. More info: jharrison46atgmaildotcom
________________________________ Message 8
_____________________________________
Time: 01:41:07 PM PST US
From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
Subject: RV-List: Top forward skin help.
Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward top
skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it around
some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the rounded edge of
a table. It is just the last two inches that can't be realistically pulled
down with clecos, and I don't want it lifting off the longeron between
rivets. Thx Carl
________________________________ Message 9
_____________________________________
Time: 02:41:20 PM PST US
From: Richard Seiders <seiders@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Top forward skin help.
Precurling the horizontal edge with an edge rolling tool helps quite
a bit on the 6. Don't see why it shouldn't on the 7.
Dick RV6A
At 04:37 PM 10/3/2007, you wrote:
>Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106
>(forward top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I
>pre-bend it around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend
>it over the rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches
>that can't be realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don't
>want it lifting off the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl
>
________________________________ Message 10
____________________________________
Time: 02:44:01 PM PST US
Subject: RV-List: Re: Top forward skin help.
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
I've done both of those things, Carl -- rolled the skin and used the edge
roller.
But I also bought some wingnut clecos and those work great.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137919#137919
________________________________ Message 11
____________________________________
Time: 03:05:02 PM PST US
From: Steve <stevea@svpal.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Top forward skin help.
Carl,
That is a tough edge to get to lay flat. I found standard clecos in
every rivet hole would still not pull it completely flat along the
longeron. There was still some puckering between the clecos. Wing nut
clecos did pull it in.
Here's what I did:
Crease the edge with Avery's edge rolling tool (or whatever tool works
for you): http://www.averytools.com/pc-45-70-edge-rolling-tool.aspx. Put
a cleco in EVERY hole (unless it interferes with the rivet gun). Use
wing nut clecos on the adjacent holes while riveting. Make sure to push
the rivet gun onto the skin hard enough to push the top skin edge flat
(may require someone pushing on the opposite side of the fuselage to
keep it from sliding sideways).
Mine came out without any puckering between rivets.
good luck,
Steve Allison
RV-6A
Carl Bell wrote:
>
> Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward
> top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it
> around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the
> rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that cant be
> realistically pulled down with clecos, and I dont want it lifting off
> the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl
>
________________________________ Message 12
____________________________________
Time: 03:09:25 PM PST US
From: Steven Eberhart <steve@newtech.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Top forward skin help.
I had the same concerns but doing nothing worked for me. The top skin
snugged right in there when we riveted it. My concern was not warranted
as I am very pleased with the results.
Steve Eberhart - RV-7A Slider, just riveted the forward top skin a week
and a half ago. Working on canopy now.
Carl Bell wrote:
>
> Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward
> top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it
> around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the
> rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that cant be
> realistically pulled down with clecos, and I dont want it lifting off
> the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl
>
________________________________ Message 13
____________________________________
Time: 07:47:04 PM PST US
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@newwavecomm.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Top forward skin help.
I did the same thing! Worked great!
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website:
http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Bob Collins wrote:
>
> I've done both of those things, Carl -- rolled the skin and used the edge
roller.
>
> But I also bought some wingnut clecos and those work great.
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> Letters from Flyover Country
> http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137919#137919
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 14
____________________________________
Time: 11:41:47 PM PST US
From: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Looking for RV-4 Rudder
Anyone have a spare RV-4 rudder, either complete or kit?=0A=0APaul Besing
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A____________________________________________
________________________________________=0AMoody friends. Drama queens. You
8:59 AM
8:59 AM
Message 2
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| Subject: | Top forward skin help. |
Carl -
I took mine to the local sheet metal shop and asked them to roll it.
Made a HUGE difference.
Neal George
===============
Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward
top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it
around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the
rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that can't be
realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don't want it lifting off
the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Top forward skin help. |
Thanks all for your help on that pesky forward skin, I'll do a little
pre-bending and get some wing nut clecos. Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Top forward skin help.
I did the same thing! Worked great!
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website:
http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Bob Collins wrote:
>
> I've done both of those things, Carl -- rolled the skin and used the edge
roller.
>
> But I also bought some wingnut clecos and those work great.
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> Letters from Flyover Country
> http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137919#137919
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Top forward skin help. |
George, that sound like a good idea, do you remember the radius they used?
Thx Carl
Carl W Bell
New Venture Consulting
Mobile: 803.640.2760
www.newventureconsulting.com
carlbell@gforcecable.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of George, Neal E Capt
MIL USAF 605TES/TSI
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:33 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Top forward skin help.
<Neal.George@Hurlburt.AF.MIL>
Carl -
I took mine to the local sheet metal shop and asked them to roll it.
Made a HUGE difference.
Neal George
===============
Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward
top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it
around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the
rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that can't be
realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don't want it lifting off
the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl
Message 5
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|
| Subject: | New Flight Bags... |
Just added some great new bags for your RV, your production plane, or your travel
needs.
See whats new at:
www.bisonmountainbags.com
Happy Flying,
Kurt
---------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Top forward skin help. |
Hi Carl,
I hand curled or curved the skin.
I did not treat the edges with an edging tool.
I located two 2X4s long enough to slip the forward skin between them with
enough left over to hold them in my bench mounted Vice,.
I clamped the edge of the skin to be riveted between the 2x4s. with a large
C clamps.
This somewhat clumsy assemblage was then clamped into the vice.
With care not to crease the skin at the 2x4 edges I pulled the skin over
enough that the desired gentle curve was created.
I repeated the set up for the other side. I did not try to make the skin
curvature exactly match the supporting ribs.
When done the skin rested not Clekoed onto the structure with the skins
outer edges about two inches away from the fuse sides. Clekoes easily pulled
the skin on as desired.
When riveted the skin fit very nice , no puckering at all and no evidence of
edging tool use.
Keep building,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 10:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Top forward skin help.
>
> George, that sound like a good idea, do you remember the radius they
> used?
> Thx Carl
>
> Carl W Bell
> New Venture Consulting
> Mobile: 803.640.2760
> www.newventureconsulting.com
> carlbell@gforcecable.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of George, Neal E
> Capt
> MIL USAF 605TES/TSI
> Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:33 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Top forward skin help.
>
> <Neal.George@Hurlburt.AF.MIL>
>
> Carl -
>
> I took mine to the local sheet metal shop and asked them to roll it.
> Made a HUGE difference.
>
> Neal George
>
>
> ===============
> Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward
> top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it
> around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the
> rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that can't be
> realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don't want it lifting off
> the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Top forward skin help. |
Hi Bobby,
I noticed you have an offset panel (I think it Affordable's) in your plane.
Are you happy with it and would you do that one again or the XL? Also can
you see your Garmin map in the dock ok in the position you have? I'm going
with a G 496 and twin GRT's, an SL 30 and GTX 327. Any thoughts would be
appreciated. Carl
Carl W Bell
New Venture Consulting
Mobile: 803.640.2760
www.newventureconsulting.com
carlbell@gforcecable.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Top forward skin help.
I did the same thing! Worked great!
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website:
http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Bob Collins wrote:
>
> I've done both of those things, Carl -- rolled the skin and used the edge
roller.
>
> But I also bought some wingnut clecos and those work great.
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> Letters from Flyover Country
> http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137919#137919
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Cuban 8 practice questions |
Hi all,
Since the list has been a little quiet hope you don't mind a question on
Cuban 8s. I have had training on loops and rolls, so I have just started
Cuban 8s. Would you look at my Youtube video of practice and give me some
input on how to improve them. I do know that the last part of my 2nd one was
a couple hundred feet below the entry altitude, I can work on that. I seem
to have a challenge with arriving level in the inverted position, but on the
1st one I got there OK, but you see the reference road was not in sight. How
did that happen?? For those who have not done aerobatics before, please get
proper instruction first, I did. Am just working on making them pretty. Hope
you enjoy the video,
Dale
RV6a Hartzell, O-360, 930 hours
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2lRY1ZTMEM
Do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Cuban 8 practice questions |
Hi Dale,
The answer to me seems pretty simple. Your brain is sub-counsiously just
getting a bit ahead of you. You'll notice that at the top of the loop, your
"un-level" is already leading the same direction as you roll for the
backside of the loop. Force yourself to do 60% of the loop (and stay nice
and light in the belts) before you put in any sort of roll and I bet that
the inverted 'unlevel' will go away.
In my opinion, you're rolling out a little too early. For Cuban 8's, I try
to wait a bit longer on the downside, after establishing about a 45 on the
wingtip before I roll. I don't know if you have inverted fuel/oil or not, so
I may be speaking out of school here, but I'd try to float it over the top a
bit longer. You're entire maneuver is pretty tight. I think if you
loosened it up a bit and made it all a bit "bigger/slower" you might find it
comes together a bit better. Don't forget about the right/left rudder on the
way up/down through the loop to keep everything aligned (I'm sure you are,
but it helps). Also, on the way up a quick reference to the wingtips to
ensure you're not rolling on the way will help as well. A good set of
square reference roads will help you as you well know!
Overall you're on the way and it's looking pretty good. I'm by no means any
sort of expert or accomplished aerobatic pilot, but I often will do 2-4
cubans in a row when bored, followed by the same amount of hammerheads with
a half roll on the way down, then you just end up going back and
forth....kind of like with the cubans!
These RV's are amazing. Don't get too worried about altitude loss. After
awhile you'll find out that an RV can gain altitude during either a cuban,
loop or hammerhead!
Just my personal, un-professional 2 cents as usual.
Cheers,
Stein
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dale Walter
>Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 5:46 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Cuban 8 practice questions
>
>
>
>Hi all,
>Since the list has been a little quiet hope you don't mind a question on
>Cuban 8s. I have had training on loops and rolls, so I have just started
>Cuban 8s. Would you look at my Youtube video of practice and give me some
>input on how to improve them. I do know that the last part of my
>2nd one was
>a couple hundred feet below the entry altitude, I can work on that. I seem
>to have a challenge with arriving level in the inverted position,
>but on the
>1st one I got there OK, but you see the reference road was not in
>sight. How
>did that happen?? For those who have not done aerobatics before, please get
>proper instruction first, I did. Am just working on making them
>pretty. Hope
>you enjoy the video,
>Dale
>RV6a Hartzell, O-360, 930 hours
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2lRY1ZTMEM
>
>Do not archive
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | WTB: rv-3 or rv-4 project |
Anybody know of any rv-3 or rv-4 projects for sale?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138184#138184
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Brake caliper bleed fitting. |
Probably a dumb question but...getting ready to install brake calipers on
RV-6A. Cleveland installs the bleeder on the same side of both calipers but
Van's drawing shows the bleeder at the bottom of the installation.
So....I'm assuming that I need to reverse the bleeder and the fluid line
fittings on one of the Calipers? Yes/No? Thanks.
Dean RV-6A
Hope to fly soon.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Brake caliper bleed fitting. |
Yes
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Brake caliper bleed fitting. |
Yes
Denis Walsh
On Oct 1, 2007, at 07:20 8042400010, DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
> <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
> Probably a dumb question but...getting ready to install brake
> calipers on
> RV-6A. Cleveland installs the bleeder on the same side of both
> calipers but
> Van's drawing shows the bleeder at the bottom of the installation.
> So....I'm assuming that I need to reverse the bleeder and the fluid
> line
> fittings on one of the Calipers? Yes/No? Thanks.
>
> Dean RV-6A
> Hope to fly soon.
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: Brake caliper bleed fitting. |
Yes. Put bleeder on bottom on both sides so that you can force any air
bubbles up thru the system.
Dale Enisng
----- Original Message -----
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brake caliper bleed fitting.
> <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
>
> Probably a dumb question but...getting ready to install brake calipers on
> RV-6A. Cleveland installs the bleeder on the same side of both calipers
> but
> Van's drawing shows the bleeder at the bottom of the installation.
> So....I'm assuming that I need to reverse the bleeder and the fluid line
> fittings on one of the Calipers? Yes/No? Thanks.
>
> Dean RV-6A
> Hope to fly soon.
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Cuban 8 practice questions |
No suggestions, I just enjoyed the ride.
Thanks,
Vince H.
RV8 Finish
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Walter
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 3:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: Cuban 8 practice questions
Hi all,
Since the list has been a little quiet hope you don't mind a question on
Cuban 8s. I have had training on loops and rolls, so I have just started
Cuban 8s. Would you look at my Youtube video of practice and give me some
input on how to improve them. I do know that the last part of my 2nd one was
a couple hundred feet below the entry altitude, I can work on that. I seem
to have a challenge with arriving level in the inverted position, but on the
1st one I got there OK, but you see the reference road was not in sight. How
did that happen?? For those who have not done aerobatics before, please get
proper instruction first, I did. Am just working on making them pretty. Hope
you enjoy the video,
Dale
RV6a Hartzell, O-360, 930 hours
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2lRY1ZTMEM
Do not archive
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cuban 8 practice questions |
Dale, it's hard to tell from the video, but it appears that you're
rolling back upright early ...... while the nose is still moving down.
Try establishing a 45 degree down line inverted, pick your 'roll point'
and then roll upright and enter the second loop of the eight.
Hope this helps!
Linn
PS ...... I second your comment about getting instruction. When I built
my Pitts, I was too busy to get any akro training ...... and I couldn't
really afford it anyway. So I tought myself the basics with lots of
altitude. Now I can perform an egg-shaped loop perfectly ..... every
time!!!
do not archive
Dale Walter wrote:
>
>Hi all,
>Since the list has been a little quiet hope you don't mind a question on
>Cuban 8s. I have had training on loops and rolls, so I have just started
>Cuban 8s. Would you look at my Youtube video of practice and give me some
>input on how to improve them. I do know that the last part of my 2nd one was
>a couple hundred feet below the entry altitude, I can work on that. I seem
>to have a challenge with arriving level in the inverted position, but on the
>1st one I got there OK, but you see the reference road was not in sight. How
>did that happen?? For those who have not done aerobatics before, please get
>proper instruction first, I did. Am just working on making them pretty. Hope
>you enjoy the video,
>Dale
>RV6a Hartzell, O-360, 930 hours
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2lRY1ZTMEM
>
>Do not archive
>
>
>
>
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