---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 10/04/07: 16 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:38 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 10/03/07 (Brian Fowler) 2. 06:39 AM - Re: Top forward skin help. (George, Neal E Capt MIL USAF 605TES/TSI) 3. 06:47 AM - Re: Re: Top forward skin help. (Carl Bell) 4. 10:11 AM - Re: Top forward skin help. (Carl Bell) 5. 01:13 PM - New Flight Bags... (kirt klevin) 6. 01:56 PM - Re: Top forward skin help. (Jim Jewell) 7. 02:37 PM - Re: Re: Top forward skin help. (Carl Bell) 8. 03:48 PM - Cuban 8 practice questions (Dale Walter) 9. 04:36 PM - Re: Cuban 8 practice questions (SteinAir, Inc.) 10. 06:13 PM - WTB: rv-3 or rv-4 project (tailwheelbill) 11. 07:03 PM - Brake caliper bleed fitting. (DEAN PSIROPOULOS) 12. 07:39 PM - Re: Brake caliper bleed fitting. (c.ennis) 13. 07:46 PM - Re: Brake caliper bleed fitting. (Denis Walsh) 14. 07:48 PM - Re: Brake caliper bleed fitting. (Dale Ensing) 15. 09:32 PM - Re: Cuban 8 practice questions (Vince-Himsl) 16. 10:16 PM - Re: Cuban 8 practice questions (linn Walters) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:38:24 AM PST US From: "Brian Fowler" Subject: RV-List: RE: RV-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 10/03/07 Please unsubscribe me from this mailing list Thanks, Brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV-List Digest Server Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 2:58 AM Subject: RV-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 10/03/07 * ================================================= Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive ================================================= Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser. HTML Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 07-10-03&Archive=RV Text Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 2007-10-03&Archive=RV =============================================== EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive =============================================== ---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 10/03/07: 14 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:46 AM - Re: HVLP Questions (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 2. 03:42 AM - Re: HVLP Questions (Scott) 3. 04:07 AM - Re: Nashville Airports (Tim Bryan) 4. 07:00 AM - Re: HVLP Questions (Tim Bryan) 5. 07:34 AM - Re: HVLP Questions (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 6. 07:42 AM - Re: HVLP Questions (Tim Bryan) 7. 10:57 AM - for sale: RV9 tail kit (John Harrison) 8. 01:41 PM - Top forward skin help. (Carl Bell) 9. 02:41 PM - Re: Top forward skin help. (Richard Seiders) 10. 02:44 PM - Re: Top forward skin help. (Bob Collins) 11. 03:05 PM - Re: Top forward skin help. (Steve) 12. 03:09 PM - Re: Top forward skin help. (Steven Eberhart) 13. 07:47 PM - Re: Re: Top forward skin help. (Bobby Hester) 14. 11:41 PM - Looking for RV-4 Rudder (Paul Besing) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:46:29 AM PST US From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after every use. Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also become brittle over time and can shatter with a solid hit from something. If it's permanent, use type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will last forever. It's also rated for compressed air. Michael Sausen Rv-10 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:00 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions Scott, Glad that I could help out. One thing that is Critical to the life of any HVLP gun is to clean it immediately after use. I buy 5 gal cans of lacquer thinner at a discount paint shop/auto body shop and run 3x 1/2 cups of lacquer thinner through it after each use. Thoroughly wipe out the cup with a clean paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner and the nozzle. Let it air dry before putting it away. If you maintain your equipment, it will last forever. I have one HVLP gun that is 3 years old and shoots as good as day one. The outside ain't so pretty but the guts are spotless. Most people don't take care of their guns properly and then cuss them when they fail. Also you can plumb your shop with HIGH pressure PVC pipe and not cast iron, same isle as the regular PVC water pipe, just look for High Pressure HOT/COLD on the PVC. Regular or High PVC cement. Good luck, Mike H 9A, 8A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott" Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:46 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions > > Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around... > > Scott > http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ > Gotta Fly or Gonna Die > Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version) > > > mike humphrey wrote: > >> >> >> Bob, >> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less, overspray, >> and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$. >> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any brand. >> I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand up >> compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor Supply >> Co. near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot, Lowe's >> will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking for >> on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single stage >> 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air tool >> that you have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog it >> down. >> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in the >> world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat, >> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed is >> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could get >> it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are >> quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have tons of >> stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop before >> laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your bucks. >> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's club >> no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when on >> sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with >> two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder. >> Hope that this all helped, >> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big or >> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint. >> You are right-no inline oiler. >> Mike H 9A, 8A >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:42:41 AM PST US From: Scott Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions All good advice. I have no plans to plumb my shop with air though. I just drag the air hose around to where I need it... Scott http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ Gotta Fly or Gonna Die Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version) RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > > If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after every use. Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also become brittle over time and can shatter with a solid hit from something. If it's permanent, use type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will last forever. It's also rated for compressed air. > >Michael Sausen >Rv-10 > > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 04:07:26 AM PST US From: "Tim Bryan" Subject: RE: RV-List: Nashville Airports Hi Parker, Thanks for your input on this. It sound like I will be flying into Tune as many others have given great info also. Thanks again Tim Do Not Archive > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Parker Thomas > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 10:58 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Nashville Airports > > > Tim - > > I flew into Nashville several years ago in my RV-8. Tune is a nice little > airport (I got my pilots license there), but I ruled it out because I > couldn't get a rental car there. If you can, it is great because it is > right near an interstate that can whisk you downtown or to tourist > attractions, etc. It is not very difficult to get to if you can read > interstate signs. I landed at BNA and used one of the FBO's. It worked > fine - no problems with tiedowns, fees weren't expensive, etc. They > dropped > me at the rental car counter with no trouble. Smyrna is fine too, but it > is > a little farther out than the other two. > > Hope that helps. If you need any suggestions about where to go, contact > me > off list. I grew up there. > > Parker > ____________________________________ > F. Parker Thomas > me@parkerthomas.com > www.parkerthomas.com > Phone 510-393-9876 > Fax 510-225-2358 > > > > > > > > I am posting this again because it never came through on the email list. > > > > My wife and I are planning to fly to Nashville for our anniversary in a > > couple of weeks. I see there are two airports besides the International > > airport (BNA). John C. Tune (JWN) and Cornelia (M88). Could someone > from > > this area tell me which would be the most RV (RV related post) friendly > > airport between these two? We will be in town for 4 days. > > > > Any comments appreciated > > Tim > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:00:13 AM PST US From: "Tim Bryan" Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions My last shop was plumbed with high pressure pvc pipe and I did have a blow out. I was in the shop when it happened and it took a few years off my life. Shrapnel was everywhere and damaged a couple of things but nothing major. If anyone wants to plumb the shop I would recommend this product: http://nibco.com/cms.do?id=2&pId=14 It is PVC and rated for compressed air. It isn't quite as cheap as regular o'l pvc but still not bad and glues together the same. It is green and they have great fittings for doing air. I used it and had T fittings pointing up for each drop. Then they have a 180 degree short bend that allows you to go from the T fitting down to your coupling. This is great because any water in your pipe is not dropped to your fittings but rather continues down the run to the end where you can place a separator. Good stuff and much safer. Tim > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 7:40 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions > > > > If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after > every use. Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also > become brittle over time and can shatter with a solid hit from something. > If it's permanent, use type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will > last forever. It's also rated for compressed air. > > Michael Sausen > Rv-10 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:00 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions > > > > Scott, > Glad that I could help out. One thing that is Critical to the life of any > HVLP gun is to clean it immediately after use. I buy 5 gal cans of > lacquer > thinner at a discount paint shop/auto body shop and run 3x 1/2 cups of > lacquer thinner through it after each use. Thoroughly wipe out the cup > with > a clean paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner and the nozzle. Let it air > dry before putting it away. If you maintain your equipment, it will last > forever. I have one HVLP gun that is 3 years old and shoots as good as > day > one. The outside ain't so pretty but the guts are spotless. Most people > don't take care of their guns properly and then cuss them when they fail. > Also you can plumb your shop with HIGH pressure PVC pipe and not cast > iron, > same isle as the regular PVC water pipe, just look for High Pressure > HOT/COLD on the PVC. Regular or High PVC cement. > Good luck, > Mike H 9A, 8A > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Scott" > To: > Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:46 AM > Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions > > > > > > Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around... > > > > Scott > > http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ > > Gotta Fly or Gonna Die > > Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version) > > > > > > > > mike humphrey wrote: > > > >> > >> > >> Bob, > >> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less, overspray, > >> and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$. > >> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any > brand. > >> I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand up > >> compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor Supply > >> Co. near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot, > Lowe's > >> will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking > for > >> on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single stage > >> 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air > tool > >> that you have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog it > >> down. > >> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in > the > >> world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat, > >> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed is > >> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could get > >> it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are > >> quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have tons of > >> stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop before > >> laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your bucks. > >> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's > club > >> no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when on > >> sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with > >> two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder. > >> Hope that this all helped, > >> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big or > >> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint. > >> You are right-no inline oiler. > >> Mike H 9A, 8A > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:34:44 AM PST US From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions Just for clarification, this stuff looks to be ABS and not PVC. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 8:59 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions My last shop was plumbed with high pressure pvc pipe and I did have a blow out. I was in the shop when it happened and it took a few years off my life. Shrapnel was everywhere and damaged a couple of things but nothing major. If anyone wants to plumb the shop I would recommend this product: http://nibco.com/cms.do?id=2&pId=14 It is PVC and rated for compressed air. It isn't quite as cheap as regular o'l pvc but still not bad and glues together the same. It is green and they have great fittings for doing air. I used it and had T fittings pointing up for each drop. Then they have a 180 degree short bend that allows you to go from the T fitting down to your coupling. This is great because any water in your pipe is not dropped to your fittings but rather continues down the run to the end where you can place a separator. Good stuff and much safer. Tim > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 7:40 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions > > > > If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after > every use. Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also > become brittle over time and can shatter with a solid hit from something. > If it's permanent, use type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will > last forever. It's also rated for compressed air. > > Michael Sausen > Rv-10 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:00 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions > > > > Scott, > Glad that I could help out. One thing that is Critical to the life of any > HVLP gun is to clean it immediately after use. I buy 5 gal cans of > lacquer > thinner at a discount paint shop/auto body shop and run 3x 1/2 cups of > lacquer thinner through it after each use. Thoroughly wipe out the cup > with > a clean paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner and the nozzle. Let it air > dry before putting it away. If you maintain your equipment, it will last > forever. I have one HVLP gun that is 3 years old and shoots as good as > day > one. The outside ain't so pretty but the guts are spotless. Most people > don't take care of their guns properly and then cuss them when they fail. > Also you can plumb your shop with HIGH pressure PVC pipe and not cast > iron, > same isle as the regular PVC water pipe, just look for High Pressure > HOT/COLD on the PVC. Regular or High PVC cement. > Good luck, > Mike H 9A, 8A > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Scott" > To: > Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:46 AM > Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions > > > > > > Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around... > > > > Scott > > http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ > > Gotta Fly or Gonna Die > > Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version) > > > > > > > > mike humphrey wrote: > > > >> > >> > >> Bob, > >> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less, overspray, > >> and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$. > >> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any > brand. > >> I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand up > >> compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor Supply > >> Co. near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot, > Lowe's > >> will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking > for > >> on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single stage > >> 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air > tool > >> that you have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog it > >> down. > >> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in > the > >> world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat, > >> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed is > >> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could get > >> it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are > >> quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have tons of > >> stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop before > >> laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your bucks. > >> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's > club > >> no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when on > >> sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with > >> two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder. > >> Hope that this all helped, > >> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big or > >> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint. > >> You are right-no inline oiler. > >> Mike H 9A, 8A > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:42:28 AM PST US From: "Tim Bryan" Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions Right you are as I didn't realize the difference. I generalized. oops! Tim Do Not Archive > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) > Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 9:26 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions > > > > Just for clarification, this stuff looks to be ABS and not PVC. > > Michael > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan > Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 8:59 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions > > > My last shop was plumbed with high pressure pvc pipe and I did have a blow > out. I was in the shop when it happened and it took a few years off my > life. Shrapnel was everywhere and damaged a couple of things but nothing > major. If anyone wants to plumb the shop I would recommend this product: > > http://nibco.com/cms.do?id=2&pId=14 > > It is PVC and rated for compressed air. It isn't quite as cheap as > regular > o'l pvc but still not bad and glues together the same. It is green and > they > have great fittings for doing air. I used it and had T fittings pointing > up > for each drop. Then they have a 180 degree short bend that allows you to > go > from the T fitting down to your coupling. This is great because any water > in your pipe is not dropped to your fittings but rather continues down the > run to the end where you can place a separator. > > Good stuff and much safer. > Tim > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) > > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 7:40 AM > > To: rv-list@matronics.com > > Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions > > > > > > > > If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after > > every use. Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also > > become brittle over time and can shatter with a solid hit from > something. > > If it's permanent, use type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will > > last forever. It's also rated for compressed air. > > > > Michael Sausen > > Rv-10 > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey > > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:00 AM > > To: rv-list@matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions > > > > > > > > Scott, > > Glad that I could help out. One thing that is Critical to the life of > any > > HVLP gun is to clean it immediately after use. I buy 5 gal cans of > > lacquer > > thinner at a discount paint shop/auto body shop and run 3x 1/2 cups of > > lacquer thinner through it after each use. Thoroughly wipe out the cup > > with > > a clean paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner and the nozzle. Let it > air > > dry before putting it away. If you maintain your equipment, it will > last > > forever. I have one HVLP gun that is 3 years old and shoots as good as > > day > > one. The outside ain't so pretty but the guts are spotless. Most > people > > don't take care of their guns properly and then cuss them when they > fail. > > Also you can plumb your shop with HIGH pressure PVC pipe and not cast > > iron, > > same isle as the regular PVC water pipe, just look for High Pressure > > HOT/COLD on the PVC. Regular or High PVC cement. > > Good luck, > > Mike H 9A, 8A > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Scott" > > To: > > Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:46 AM > > Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions > > > > > > > > > > Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around... > > > > > > Scott > > > http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ > > > Gotta Fly or Gonna Die > > > Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version) > > > > > > > > > > > > mike humphrey wrote: > > > > > >> > > >> > > >> Bob, > > >> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less, > overspray, > > >> and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$. > > >> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any > > brand. > > >> I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand > up > > >> compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor > Supply > > >> Co. near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot, > > Lowe's > > >> will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking > > for > > >> on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single > stage > > >> 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air > > tool > > >> that you have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog > it > > >> down. > > >> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in > > the > > >> world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat, > > >> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed > is > > >> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could > get > > >> it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are > > >> quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have tons > of > > >> stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop > before > > >> laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your bucks. > > >> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's > > club > > >> no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when > on > > >> sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with > > >> two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder. > > >> Hope that this all helped, > > >> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big > or > > >> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint. > > >> You are right-no inline oiler. > > >> Mike H 9A, 8A > > >> > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 10:57:54 AM PST US From: "John Harrison" Subject: RV-List: for sale: RV9 tail kit For sale: RV9 tail kit with electric trim. I am located in a western suburb of Chicago. I can't pack it so someone will have to be in driving distance. I also bought the Cleaveland tool kit for RV's including a pneumatic squeezer. The tools are barely used. $1300 for the tail kit and $2100 for tools. More info: jharrison46atgmaildotcom ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 01:41:07 PM PST US From: "Carl Bell" Subject: RV-List: Top forward skin help. Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that can't be realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don't want it lifting off the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 02:41:20 PM PST US From: Richard Seiders Subject: Re: RV-List: Top forward skin help. Precurling the horizontal edge with an edge rolling tool helps quite a bit on the 6. Don't see why it shouldn't on the 7. Dick RV6A At 04:37 PM 10/3/2007, you wrote: >Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 >(forward top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I >pre-bend it around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend >it over the rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches >that can't be realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don't >want it lifting off the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 02:44:01 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: Top forward skin help. From: "Bob Collins" I've done both of those things, Carl -- rolled the skin and used the edge roller. But I also bought some wingnut clecos and those work great. -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. Letters from Flyover Country http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137919#137919 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 03:05:02 PM PST US From: Steve Subject: Re: RV-List: Top forward skin help. Carl, That is a tough edge to get to lay flat. I found standard clecos in every rivet hole would still not pull it completely flat along the longeron. There was still some puckering between the clecos. Wing nut clecos did pull it in. Here's what I did: Crease the edge with Avery's edge rolling tool (or whatever tool works for you): http://www.averytools.com/pc-45-70-edge-rolling-tool.aspx. Put a cleco in EVERY hole (unless it interferes with the rivet gun). Use wing nut clecos on the adjacent holes while riveting. Make sure to push the rivet gun onto the skin hard enough to push the top skin edge flat (may require someone pushing on the opposite side of the fuselage to keep it from sliding sideways). Mine came out without any puckering between rivets. good luck, Steve Allison RV-6A Carl Bell wrote: > > Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward > top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it > around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the > rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that cant be > realistically pulled down with clecos, and I dont want it lifting off > the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 03:09:25 PM PST US From: Steven Eberhart Subject: Re: RV-List: Top forward skin help. I had the same concerns but doing nothing worked for me. The top skin snugged right in there when we riveted it. My concern was not warranted as I am very pleased with the results. Steve Eberhart - RV-7A Slider, just riveted the forward top skin a week and a half ago. Working on canopy now. Carl Bell wrote: > > Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward > top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it > around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the > rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that cant be > realistically pulled down with clecos, and I dont want it lifting off > the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:47:04 PM PST US From: Bobby Hester Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Top forward skin help. I did the same thing! Worked great! Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm Bob Collins wrote: > > I've done both of those things, Carl -- rolled the skin and used the edge roller. > > But I also bought some wingnut clecos and those work great. > > -------- > Bob Collins > St. Paul, Minn. > Letters from Flyover Country > http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/ > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137919#137919 > > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 11:41:47 PM PST US From: Paul Besing Subject: RV-List: Looking for RV-4 Rudder Anyone have a spare RV-4 rudder, either complete or kit?=0A=0APaul Besing =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A____________________________________________ ________________________________________=0AMoody friends. Drama queens. You 8:59 AM 8:59 AM ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:39:38 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Top forward skin help. From: "George, Neal E Capt MIL USAF 605TES/TSI" Carl - I took mine to the local sheet metal shop and asked them to roll it. Made a HUGE difference. Neal George =============== Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that can't be realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don't want it lifting off the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:47:16 AM PST US From: "Carl Bell" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Top forward skin help. Thanks all for your help on that pesky forward skin, I'll do a little pre-bending and get some wing nut clecos. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Hester Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:44 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Top forward skin help. I did the same thing! Worked great! Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm Bob Collins wrote: > > I've done both of those things, Carl -- rolled the skin and used the edge roller. > > But I also bought some wingnut clecos and those work great. > > -------- > Bob Collins > St. Paul, Minn. > Letters from Flyover Country > http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/ > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137919#137919 > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 10:11:26 AM PST US From: "Carl Bell" Subject: RE: RV-List: Top forward skin help. George, that sound like a good idea, do you remember the radius they used? Thx Carl Carl W Bell New Venture Consulting Mobile: 803.640.2760 www.newventureconsulting.com carlbell@gforcecable.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of George, Neal E Capt MIL USAF 605TES/TSI Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:33 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Top forward skin help. Carl - I took mine to the local sheet metal shop and asked them to roll it. Made a HUGE difference. Neal George =============== Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that can't be realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don't want it lifting off the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 01:13:55 PM PST US From: kirt klevin Subject: RV-List: New Flight Bags... Just added some great new bags for your RV, your production plane, or your travel needs. See whats new at: www.bisonmountainbags.com Happy Flying, Kurt --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 01:56:37 PM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: Top forward skin help. Hi Carl, I hand curled or curved the skin. I did not treat the edges with an edging tool. I located two 2X4s long enough to slip the forward skin between them with enough left over to hold them in my bench mounted Vice,. I clamped the edge of the skin to be riveted between the 2x4s. with a large C clamps. This somewhat clumsy assemblage was then clamped into the vice. With care not to crease the skin at the 2x4 edges I pulled the skin over enough that the desired gentle curve was created. I repeated the set up for the other side. I did not try to make the skin curvature exactly match the supporting ribs. When done the skin rested not Clekoed onto the structure with the skins outer edges about two inches away from the fuse sides. Clekoes easily pulled the skin on as desired. When riveted the skin fit very nice , no puckering at all and no evidence of edging tool use. Keep building, Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl Bell" Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 10:10 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Top forward skin help. > > George, that sound like a good idea, do you remember the radius they > used? > Thx Carl > > Carl W Bell > New Venture Consulting > Mobile: 803.640.2760 > www.newventureconsulting.com > carlbell@gforcecable.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of George, Neal E > Capt > MIL USAF 605TES/TSI > Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:33 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV-List: Top forward skin help. > > > > Carl - > > I took mine to the local sheet metal shop and asked them to roll it. > Made a HUGE difference. > > Neal George > > > =============== > Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward > top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it > around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the > rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that can't be > realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don't want it lifting off > the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 02:37:26 PM PST US From: "Carl Bell" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Top forward skin help. Hi Bobby, I noticed you have an offset panel (I think it Affordable's) in your plane. Are you happy with it and would you do that one again or the XL? Also can you see your Garmin map in the dock ok in the position you have? I'm going with a G 496 and twin GRT's, an SL 30 and GTX 327. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Carl Carl W Bell New Venture Consulting Mobile: 803.640.2760 www.newventureconsulting.com carlbell@gforcecable.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Hester Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:44 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Top forward skin help. I did the same thing! Worked great! Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm Bob Collins wrote: > > I've done both of those things, Carl -- rolled the skin and used the edge roller. > > But I also bought some wingnut clecos and those work great. > > -------- > Bob Collins > St. Paul, Minn. > Letters from Flyover Country > http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/ > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137919#137919 > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 03:48:29 PM PST US From: "Dale Walter" Subject: RV-List: Cuban 8 practice questions Hi all, Since the list has been a little quiet hope you don't mind a question on Cuban 8s. I have had training on loops and rolls, so I have just started Cuban 8s. Would you look at my Youtube video of practice and give me some input on how to improve them. I do know that the last part of my 2nd one was a couple hundred feet below the entry altitude, I can work on that. I seem to have a challenge with arriving level in the inverted position, but on the 1st one I got there OK, but you see the reference road was not in sight. How did that happen?? For those who have not done aerobatics before, please get proper instruction first, I did. Am just working on making them pretty. Hope you enjoy the video, Dale RV6a Hartzell, O-360, 930 hours http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2lRY1ZTMEM Do not archive ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 04:36:09 PM PST US From: "SteinAir, Inc." Subject: RE: RV-List: Cuban 8 practice questions Hi Dale, The answer to me seems pretty simple. Your brain is sub-counsiously just getting a bit ahead of you. You'll notice that at the top of the loop, your "un-level" is already leading the same direction as you roll for the backside of the loop. Force yourself to do 60% of the loop (and stay nice and light in the belts) before you put in any sort of roll and I bet that the inverted 'unlevel' will go away. In my opinion, you're rolling out a little too early. For Cuban 8's, I try to wait a bit longer on the downside, after establishing about a 45 on the wingtip before I roll. I don't know if you have inverted fuel/oil or not, so I may be speaking out of school here, but I'd try to float it over the top a bit longer. You're entire maneuver is pretty tight. I think if you loosened it up a bit and made it all a bit "bigger/slower" you might find it comes together a bit better. Don't forget about the right/left rudder on the way up/down through the loop to keep everything aligned (I'm sure you are, but it helps). Also, on the way up a quick reference to the wingtips to ensure you're not rolling on the way will help as well. A good set of square reference roads will help you as you well know! Overall you're on the way and it's looking pretty good. I'm by no means any sort of expert or accomplished aerobatic pilot, but I often will do 2-4 cubans in a row when bored, followed by the same amount of hammerheads with a half roll on the way down, then you just end up going back and forth....kind of like with the cubans! These RV's are amazing. Don't get too worried about altitude loss. After awhile you'll find out that an RV can gain altitude during either a cuban, loop or hammerhead! Just my personal, un-professional 2 cents as usual. Cheers, Stein >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dale Walter >Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 5:46 PM >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Cuban 8 practice questions > > > >Hi all, >Since the list has been a little quiet hope you don't mind a question on >Cuban 8s. I have had training on loops and rolls, so I have just started >Cuban 8s. Would you look at my Youtube video of practice and give me some >input on how to improve them. I do know that the last part of my >2nd one was >a couple hundred feet below the entry altitude, I can work on that. I seem >to have a challenge with arriving level in the inverted position, >but on the >1st one I got there OK, but you see the reference road was not in >sight. How >did that happen?? For those who have not done aerobatics before, please get >proper instruction first, I did. Am just working on making them >pretty. Hope >you enjoy the video, >Dale >RV6a Hartzell, O-360, 930 hours > >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2lRY1ZTMEM > >Do not archive > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 06:13:46 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: WTB: rv-3 or rv-4 project From: "tailwheelbill" <1tnumqd02@sneakemail.com> Anybody know of any rv-3 or rv-4 projects for sale? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138184#138184 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 07:03:33 PM PST US From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" Subject: RV-List: Brake caliper bleed fitting. Probably a dumb question but...getting ready to install brake calipers on RV-6A. Cleveland installs the bleeder on the same side of both calipers but Van's drawing shows the bleeder at the bottom of the installation. So....I'm assuming that I need to reverse the bleeder and the fluid line fittings on one of the Calipers? Yes/No? Thanks. Dean RV-6A Hope to fly soon. ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:39:32 PM PST US From: "c.ennis" Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake caliper bleed fitting. Yes ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:46:11 PM PST US From: Denis Walsh Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake caliper bleed fitting. Yes Denis Walsh On Oct 1, 2007, at 07:20 8042400010, DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote: > > > Probably a dumb question but...getting ready to install brake > calipers on > RV-6A. Cleveland installs the bleeder on the same side of both > calipers but > Van's drawing shows the bleeder at the bottom of the installation. > So....I'm assuming that I need to reverse the bleeder and the fluid > line > fittings on one of the Calipers? Yes/No? Thanks. > > Dean RV-6A > Hope to fly soon. > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 07:48:05 PM PST US From: "Dale Ensing" Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake caliper bleed fitting. Yes. Put bleeder on bottom on both sides so that you can force any air bubbles up thru the system. Dale Enisng ----- Original Message ----- From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:57 PM Subject: RV-List: Brake caliper bleed fitting. > > > > Probably a dumb question but...getting ready to install brake calipers on > RV-6A. Cleveland installs the bleeder on the same side of both calipers > but > Van's drawing shows the bleeder at the bottom of the installation. > So....I'm assuming that I need to reverse the bleeder and the fluid line > fittings on one of the Calipers? Yes/No? Thanks. > > Dean RV-6A > Hope to fly soon. > > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 09:32:25 PM PST US From: "Vince-Himsl" Subject: RE: RV-List: Cuban 8 practice questions No suggestions, I just enjoyed the ride. Thanks, Vince H. RV8 Finish Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Walter Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 3:46 PM Subject: RV-List: Cuban 8 practice questions Hi all, Since the list has been a little quiet hope you don't mind a question on Cuban 8s. I have had training on loops and rolls, so I have just started Cuban 8s. Would you look at my Youtube video of practice and give me some input on how to improve them. I do know that the last part of my 2nd one was a couple hundred feet below the entry altitude, I can work on that. I seem to have a challenge with arriving level in the inverted position, but on the 1st one I got there OK, but you see the reference road was not in sight. How did that happen?? For those who have not done aerobatics before, please get proper instruction first, I did. Am just working on making them pretty. Hope you enjoy the video, Dale RV6a Hartzell, O-360, 930 hours http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2lRY1ZTMEM Do not archive ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 10:16:43 PM PST US From: linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Cuban 8 practice questions Dale, it's hard to tell from the video, but it appears that you're rolling back upright early ...... while the nose is still moving down. Try establishing a 45 degree down line inverted, pick your 'roll point' and then roll upright and enter the second loop of the eight. Hope this helps! Linn PS ...... I second your comment about getting instruction. When I built my Pitts, I was too busy to get any akro training ...... and I couldn't really afford it anyway. So I tought myself the basics with lots of altitude. Now I can perform an egg-shaped loop perfectly ..... every time!!! do not archive Dale Walter wrote: > >Hi all, >Since the list has been a little quiet hope you don't mind a question on >Cuban 8s. I have had training on loops and rolls, so I have just started >Cuban 8s. Would you look at my Youtube video of practice and give me some >input on how to improve them. I do know that the last part of my 2nd one was >a couple hundred feet below the entry altitude, I can work on that. I seem >to have a challenge with arriving level in the inverted position, but on the >1st one I got there OK, but you see the reference road was not in sight. How >did that happen?? For those who have not done aerobatics before, please get >proper instruction first, I did. Am just working on making them pretty. Hope >you enjoy the video, >Dale >RV6a Hartzell, O-360, 930 hours > >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2lRY1ZTMEM > >Do not archive > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.