Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:23 AM - 180hp Lycoming for sale (renewhall2)
2. 07:27 AM - ProSeal (Valovich, Paul)
3. 08:15 AM - cutting canopy (Jef Vervoort)
4. 09:59 AM - Re: ProSeal (Bob Collins)
5. 10:27 AM - Re: cutting canopy (Charles Rowbotham)
6. 10:56 AM - Re: cutting canopy (Tim Bryan)
7. 11:37 AM - Re: cutting canopy (Brian Meyette)
8. 11:45 AM - Re: cutting canopy (Dale Walter)
9. 11:50 AM - Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender (Dale Ensing)
10. 12:03 PM - Re: cutting canopy (Bob Collins)
11. 12:26 PM - Re: Re: ProSeal (Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty)
12. 12:43 PM - Re: Re: cutting canopy (Dale Walter)
13. 12:47 PM - Re: Re: cutting canopy (Dana Overall)
14. 12:58 PM - Re: Altimeter error - ASI question (Doug Gray)
15. 01:05 PM - Re: ProSeal (Bob Collins)
16. 01:36 PM - Re: Re: cutting canopy (Scott)
17. 01:37 PM - Re: Altimeter error - ASI question (John D. Heath)
18. 01:40 PM - Re: cutting canopy (Bob Collins)
19. 01:51 PM - VHB Tape vs Rivets (Chris W)
20. 01:56 PM - Pro Seal (James H Nelson)
21. 02:55 PM - Re: Re: cutting canopy (Brian Meyette)
22. 03:11 PM - Re: Pro Seal (Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty)
23. 03:15 PM - Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender (Kyle Boatright)
24. 03:31 PM - Re: Pro Seal (Kyle Boatright)
25. 03:33 PM - Re: Pro Seal (Richard Tasker)
26. 04:11 PM - Re: ProSeal (Doug Weiler)
27. 06:22 PM - Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender (Dale Ensing)
28. 06:42 PM - Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender (Kyle Boatright)
29. 07:40 PM - Property Tax Appeal (Jim Paynter)
30. 07:46 PM - Epoxy not hardening (Andrew Olech)
31. 08:01 PM - Property Tax (Jim Paynter)
32. 08:22 PM - Re: Epoxy not hardening (Scott)
33. 08:22 PM - Re: Property Tax Appeal (Bruce Gray)
34. 08:28 PM - Re: Epoxy not hardening (scott bilinski)
35. 08:29 PM - Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender (scott bilinski)
36. 08:33 PM - Re: Epoxy not hardening (mike humphrey)
37. 08:42 PM - Re: Property Tax Appeal (Bruce Gray)
38. 08:43 PM - Re: Epoxy not hardening (Bruce Gray)
39. 08:55 PM - Re: Property Tax Appeal (Scott)
40. 09:17 PM - Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sende (David Leonard)
41. 09:31 PM - Re: Property Tax Appeal (linn Walters)
42. 10:20 PM - Re: Property Tax Appeal (Bruce Gray)
43. 11:03 PM - Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender (Jim Jewell)
44. 11:42 PM - Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender (mike humphrey)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 180hp Lycoming for sale |
Gentlemen,
Bob Avery at Harnett County Airport, NC (HRJ) asked me to post this as he doesn't
have email access. Call him directly 910-897-5018.
180hp Lycoming engine for sale. Specifics:
-580hrs since new
-light wt starter & alt
-inverted fuel and oil
-$17500 w/prop $13500 w/o prop
Please do not email me about it. Call Bob Avery at 910-897-5018.
Robert
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138951#138951
Message 2
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I posted this over the weekend on the VAF site, but got no response.
-8A QB N192NM so I haven't had the fun assembling the tanks. However, it
is time to install the float-type fuel senders.
I've got a tube of "stuff" from Vans that's supposed to work - if I can
really figure out the mixing instructions. Some really basic questions:
1. Urban legend sez to toss the cork gaskets. Is that correct?
2. Bead size - what's appropriate? While subscribing to the "More is
better" idea, what happens if the excess oozes from the cover plate into
the tank and possibly breaks loose sometime in the future?
3. Rubber gaskets - just in case the damn thing doesn't work and I have
to remove the sender, I intend to use the provided rubber gaskets
without sealer, but put plenty of sealer on the screws before assembly.
Good idea?
4. Shelf life - or more accurately - "After mixing useful life". How
long do I have after mixing for useful application capability?
Paul Valovich
N192NM Reserved (Again)
Message 3
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Not very long ago there was an article in EAA-SPORTAVIATION that explained
and suggested to make the cut using a cutting bit in a Dremel tool with a
cutting guide.
I think it was written by an RV builder.
I cannot find the article anymore.
Anyone know the details, or has experience with this method ? Should you
recommend it?
Jef Vervoort 91031; Belgium.
Message 4
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//1. Urban legend sez to toss the cork gaskets. Is that correct?
As with many things in RV building, there's no right or wrong answer. It's a matter
of personal taste. Ken Scott says the cork gaskets will leak as they dry
out and recommends just prosealing. Others have reported no problem with the cork
gaskets. Still others have used cork gaskets AND proseal.
Part of your decision may have to do with what happens if you have to remove the
sender. It's a lot easier just unscrewing and pulling it off if all you've used
is cork. When meetingthe Van's SB, I pulled both access plates off -- one
with cork and proseal and one with just proseal -- and found both were quite an
exercise.
//2. Bead size - what's appropriate? While subscribing to the "More is better"
idea, what happens if the excess oozes from the cover plate into the tank and
possibly breaks loose sometime in the future?
I subscribe to the more is better rule. I see little liklihood of something breaking
off in the future. Keep the George Orndorff rule in mind. "If you look
in there and say, "that can't leak," it probably won't. But if you look at i and
say, "I don't THINK that'll leak, it probably will."
// Rubber gaskets - just in case the damn thing doesn't work and I have to remove
the sender, I intend to use the provided rubber gaskets without sealer, but
put plenty of sealer on the screws before assembly. Good idea?
I did not use the rubber gasket because I found it quite difficult with the screws
on the call-out to get the sender attached. To me, it seemed the rubber gasket
was too think. I just ProSealed.
//4. Shelf life - or more accurately - "After mixing useful life". How long do
I have after mixing for useful application capability?
It depends on the temperature. I've used ProSeal in an unheated garage in December
and it's REALLY thick but takes a long time to set up so you have more time.
I've done it in the heat of summer and while it's easier to apply, It begins
to skin over pretty quickly -- within 15, as I recall.
To me THIS is the big problem I have with those tubes rather than the two cans.
When I used the cans (and I used two quarts on my tanks, by the way, that's how
MUCH I subscribed to the Orndorrf theory (g)), I would use just mix up about
35-40 grams... enough for a couple of ribs, and then work on those two ribs.
Then I'd take a long break and mix more up. Lots of popsicle sticks, lots of
mess, lots of gloves, but I liked being more slow and methodical and not be under
pressure to get stuff done before the ProSeal bomb goes off.
With the tubes...you don't get the mess, but you pay for it with less flexibility
on time and if you are very organized and efficient, I think they're a great
way to go.
I did buy the tube once (we're talking about the one where you mix it in the tube,
right?) for something like $16 and I ended up tossing half of it away because
I didn't need that much.
Some people freeze their ProSeal which they say adds life to it etc. I cannot speak
to that because while my wife is quite forgiving of my airplane mistress,
she draws the line when reaching for an ice cream sandwich and getting a baggie
full of ProSeal instead.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138980#138980
Message 5
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Jef,
We used a cut off disc in Dremel tool but we did it free hand. One note of
caution - allow some extra overhang (beyound the line on the canopy). The
overhang will not interfere with fitting the canopy to the frame or drillin
g your holes. After you have fitted the canopy canopy, drilled your holes a
nd clecoed the canopy to the fame you can mark the excess for removal.
BTW we tried the plexiglass drill bits and had much better results but dril
ling the initial hole with anew #40 drill bit and then opening up the hole
with the small Uni-Bit. We did have the garage at 60 degrees C (85 degress
F) for 24 hours before we drilled the canopy holes.
Best Wishes,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
From: jef.vervoortw@telenet.beTo: rv-list@matronics.comSubject: RV-List: cu
tting canopyDate: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 17:14:07 +0200
Not very long ago there was an article in EAA-SPORTAVIATION that explained
and suggested to make the cut using a cutting bit in a Dremel tool with a c
utting guide.
I think it was written by an RV builder.
I cannot find the article anymore.
Anyone know the details, or has experience with this method ? Should you re
commend it?
Jef Vervoort 91031; Belgium.
_________________________________________________________________
!
ilnews
Message 6
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Hi Chuck,
I would question just one thing you mentioned here. The problem with a
regular drill bit on plexi is the amount of twist in the bit will allow it
to try to pull through the plexi causing a crack. You mentioned using a new
# 40 bit, but in reality I think you are better off with a dull one. I used
a regular "dull" bit to drill my initial holes in the canopy. Then I used
the plexi bits to open them up to the size I needed.
Anyway, I could be wrong but it seems this is how I remember how it goes.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Rowbotham
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 12:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: cutting canopy
Jef,
We used a cut off disc in Dremel tool but we did it free hand. One note of
caution - allow some extra overhang (beyound the line on the canopy). The
overhang will not interfere with fitting the canopy to the frame or drilling
your holes. After you have fitted the canopy canopy, drilled your holes and
clecoed the canopy to the fame you can mark the excess for removal.
BTW we tried the plexiglass drill bits and had much better results but
drilling the initial hole with anew #40 drill bit and then opening up the
hole with the small Uni-Bit. We did have the garage at 60 degrees C (85
degress F) for 24 hours before we drilled the canopy holes.
Best Wishes,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
_____
From: jef.vervoortw@telenet.be
Subject: RV-List: cutting canopy
Not very long ago there was an article in EAA-SPORTAVIATION that explained
and suggested to make the cut using a cutting bit in a Dremel tool with a
cutting guide.
I think it was written by an RV builder.
I cannot find the article anymore.
Anyone know the details, or has experience with this method ? Should you
recommend it?
Jef Vervoort 91031; Belgium.
_____
Boo! Scare awnews' target='_new'>Try now!
Message 7
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I agree with you on sharp vs dull, Tim.
For cutting mine, I did it freehand, using a 4=94 cutoff wheel in my
battery
drill. Using one in a die grinder should work just as well.
IMHO, the Dremel cutters are too fine for what=92s needed here ' no
need for
such a fine cut, with larger diameter cutter, you can get wheel more
perpendicular to the work, and the fine Dremel wheels break easily.
Details here:
HYPERLINK
"http://brian76.mystarband.net/canopy.htm"http://brian76.mystarband.net/c
ano
py.htm - plexi work beginning end of September
if it=92s cold out when you work on plexi, just put the canopy on
sawhorses &
put a little camping heater under the bubble for awhile ot get plexi
nice &
warm
brian
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 1:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: cutting canopy
Hi Chuck,
I would question just one thing you mentioned here. The problem with a
regular drill bit on plexi is the amount of twist in the bit will allow
it
to try to pull through the plexi causing a crack. You mentioned using a
new
# 40 bit, but in reality I think you are better off with a dull one. I
used
a regular =93dull=94 bit to drill my initial holes in the canopy. Then
I used
the plexi bits to open them up to the size I needed.
Anyway, I could be wrong but it seems this is how I remember how it
goes.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles
Rowbotham
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 12:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: cutting canopy
Jef,
We used a cut off disc in Dremel tool but we did it free hand. One note
of
caution - allow some extra overhang (beyound the line on the canopy).
The
overhang will not interfere with fitting the canopy to the frame or
drilling
your holes. After you have fitted the canopy canopy, drilled your holes
and
clecoed the canopy to the fame you can mark the excess for removal.
BTW we tried the plexiglass drill bits and had much better results but
drilling the initial hole with anew #40 drill bit and then opening up
the
hole with the small Uni-Bit. We did have the garage at 60 degrees C (85
degress F) for 24 hours before we drilled the canopy holes.
Best Wishes,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
_____
From: jef.vervoortw@telenet.be
Subject: RV-List: cutting canopy
Not very long ago there was an article in EAA-SPORTAVIATION that
explained
and suggested to make the cut using a cutting bit in a Dremel tool with
a
cutting guide.
I think it was written by an RV builder.
I cannot find the article anymore.
Anyone know the details, or has experience with this method ? Should you
recommend it?
Jef Vervoort 91031; Belgium.
_____
Boo! Scare awnews' target='_new'>Try now!
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gat
or?RV-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
10/8/2007
4:54 PM
10/8/2007
4:54 PM
Message 8
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Tim is correct. Plexiglass drill bits have been made with about half the
cutting angle of regular metal cutting bits. This restrains them from
getting too much bite and starting a crack. Use moderate drill speed (not
slow) and low pressure. Test your dull bit on scrap first.
Dale
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 1:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: cutting canopy
Hi Chuck,
I would question just one thing you mentioned here. The problem with a
regular drill bit on plexi is the amount of twist in the bit will allow it
to try to pull through the plexi causing a crack. You mentioned using a new
# 40 bit, but in reality I think you are better off with a dull one. I used
a regular "dull" bit to drill my initial holes in the canopy. Then I used
the plexi bits to open them up to the size I needed.
Anyway, I could be wrong but it seems this is how I remember how it goes.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Rowbotham
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 12:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: cutting canopy
Jef,
We used a cut off disc in Dremel tool but we did it free hand. One note of
caution - allow some extra overhang (beyound the line on the canopy). The
overhang will not interfere with fitting the canopy to the frame or drilling
your holes. After you have fitted the canopy canopy, drilled your holes and
clecoed the canopy to the fame you can mark the excess for removal.
BTW we tried the plexiglass drill bits and had much better results but
drilling the initial hole with anew #40 drill bit and then opening up the
hole with the small Uni-Bit. We did have the garage at 60 degrees C (85
degress F) for 24 hours before we drilled the canopy holes.
Best Wishes,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
Message 9
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| Subject: | Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection plates
and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In my opinion; 1.
They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2. The bottom of the
head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which makes a sealing edge out
at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if you need to remove or
re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is much easier to do with a short
Allen wrench segment in one of the very small right angle ratchet
screwdrivers handles.
I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out with the
SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
Dale Ensing
> Part of your decision may have to do with what happens if you have to
> remove the sender. It's a lot easier just unscrewing and pulling it off if
> all you've used is cork. When meetingthe Van's SB, I pulled both access
> plates off -- one with cork and proseal and one with just proseal -- and
> found both were quite an exercise.
>
>
> // Rubber gaskets - just in case they don't work and I have to remove the
> sender, I intend to use the provided rubber gaskets without sealer, but
> put plenty of sealer on the screws before assembly. Good idea?
>
> I did not use the rubber gasket because I found it quite difficult with
> the screws on the call-out to get the sender attached. To me, it seemed
> the rubber gasket was too think. I just ProSealed.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: cutting canopy |
dale1rv6(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Use moderate drill speed (not slow) and low pressure. Test your dull bit on
scrap first.
> Dale
>
Too late for me now but I'm curious if I've introduced a problem into my canopy
project unwittingly. I turned my drill VERY slowly when drilling the canopy,
exerting very little pressure. My goal was to scrape...not cut... when I drilled.
What have I done by drilling too slowly?
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138991#138991
Message 11
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Here's my question, has anyone ever used EZ Turn Fuellube between the gasket
and the plate, Vs proseal?
Jim
RV9a
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 11:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: ProSeal
>
> //1. Urban legend sez to toss the cork gaskets. Is that correct?
>
> As with many things in RV building, there's no right or wrong answer. It's
> a matter of personal taste. Ken Scott says the cork gaskets will leak as
> they dry out and recommends just prosealing. Others have reported no
> problem with the cork gaskets. Still others have used cork gaskets AND
> proseal.
>
> Part of your decision may have to do with what happens if you have to
> remove the sender. It's a lot easier just unscrewing and pulling it off if
> all you've used is cork. When meetingthe Van's SB, I pulled both access
> plates off -- one with cork and proseal and one with just proseal -- and
> found both were quite an exercise.
>
> //2. Bead size - what's appropriate? While subscribing to the "More is
> better" idea, what happens if the excess oozes from the cover plate into
> the tank and possibly breaks loose sometime in the future?
>
> I subscribe to the more is better rule. I see little liklihood of
> something breaking off in the future. Keep the George Orndorff rule in
> mind. "If you look in there and say, "that can't leak," it probably won't.
> But if you look at i and say, "I don't THINK that'll leak, it probably
> will."
>
> // Rubber gaskets - just in case the damn thing doesn't work and I have to
> remove the sender, I intend to use the provided rubber gaskets without
> sealer, but put plenty of sealer on the screws before assembly. Good idea?
>
> I did not use the rubber gasket because I found it quite difficult with
> the screws on the call-out to get the sender attached. To me, it seemed
> the rubber gasket was too think. I just ProSealed.
>
> //4. Shelf life - or more accurately - "After mixing useful life". How
> long do I have after mixing for useful application capability?
>
> It depends on the temperature. I've used ProSeal in an unheated garage in
> December and it's REALLY thick but takes a long time to set up so you have
> more time. I've done it in the heat of summer and while it's easier to
> apply, It begins to skin over pretty quickly -- within 15, as I recall.
>
> To me THIS is the big problem I have with those tubes rather than the two
> cans. When I used the cans (and I used two quarts on my tanks, by the way,
> that's how MUCH I subscribed to the Orndorrf theory (g)), I would use just
> mix up about 35-40 grams... enough for a couple of ribs, and then work on
> those two ribs. Then I'd take a long break and mix more up. Lots of
> popsicle sticks, lots of mess, lots of gloves, but I liked being more slow
> and methodical and not be under pressure to get stuff done before the
> ProSeal bomb goes off.
>
> With the tubes...you don't get the mess, but you pay for it with less
> flexibility on time and if you are very organized and efficient, I think
> they're a great way to go.
>
> I did buy the tube once (we're talking about the one where you mix it in
> the tube, right?) for something like $16 and I ended up tossing half of it
> away because I didn't need that much.
>
> Some people freeze their ProSeal which they say adds life to it etc. I
> cannot speak to that because while my wife is quite forgiving of my
> airplane mistress, she draws the line when reaching for an ice cream
> sandwich and getting a baggie full of ProSeal instead.
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> Letters from Flyover Country
> http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138980#138980
>
>
> --
> 8:44 AM
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: cutting canopy |
No problem, the light pressure is the most important. If you don't see any
cracks you are a winner. Some who go slow push harder when they don't see
the hole developing and that can start a crack. The ideal combination of
speed and pressure will produce a thin rather steady chip. A machinist
judges his progress based on the chip output.
Dale
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Collins
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 3:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: cutting canopy
dale1rv6(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Use moderate drill speed (not slow) and low pressure. Test your dull bit
on scrap first.
> Dale
>
Too late for me now but I'm curious if I've introduced a problem into my
canopy project unwittingly. I turned my drill VERY slowly when drilling the
canopy, exerting very little pressure. My goal was to scrape...not cut...
when I drilled. What have I done by drilling too slowly?
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138991#138991
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: cutting canopy |
Bob, I don't know about your question but this is a quote right out of the
plans, "When drilling the canopy you can pre-drill all of the holes in the
frame #40 and then drill through the canopy to them with a plexi bit. The
canopy is transparent of course, and it is relatively easy to hit the holes
already in the frame. Alternatively, you can drill the hole in the canopy
(using a special 1/8" plexiglass bit) until the tip of the bit makes a mar
k on the frame. The holes in the frame will be drilled with a regular bit
when the plexiglass is removed". On down they say to machine countersink t
he plexi then drill out the holes to 5/32 with a plexi bit or 5/32 with a u
nibit. I used plexi bits.
Work for me right of the plans.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
> Subject: RV-List: Re: cutting canopy
> From: bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net
> Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 12:02:42 -0700
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>
>
>
> dale1rv6(at)comcast.net wrote:
> > Use moderate drill speed (not slow) and low pressure. Test your dull b
it on scrap first.
> > Dale
> >
>
>
> Too late for me now but I'm curious if I've introduced a problem into my
canopy project unwittingly. I turned my drill VERY slowly when drilling the
canopy, exerting very little pressure. My goal was to scrape...not cut...
when I drilled. What have I done by drilling too slowly?
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> Letters from Flyover Country
> http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138991#138991
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Caf=E9. Stop
by today.
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Oc
tWLtagline
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Altimeter error - ASI question |
John,
Very interesting procedure for adjusting the Altimeter. I'm looking
forward to the outcome from Shirley.
Do you have a procedure for adjusting an airspeed indicator?
I have a very nice second hand ASI (Unknown German brand, model is
FM-440/4) but has an error at zero diff. pressure of ~25 kts. I have
not tested the range yet so I don't know if this is across the scale.
Can this be adjusted or do I have a dud?
TIA
Doug Gray
On Sun, 2007-10-07 at 12:54 -0500, John D. Heath wrote:
>
> Shirley,
>
> Anything in an airplane that has preformed well for a long time and then
> suddenly has a change should be looked at by someone with experience in that
> field. That being said, and if you are sure that altimeter is otherwise
> functioning correctly, with reasonable care try this. Adjust the altimeter
> to airfield elevation. Near the adjustment knob there is a flat head screw.
> Carefully turn it out until the head just clears the face of the instrument
> but still is engaged in the threads. The screw is engaged in a small rod
> that locks the knob in position. Try not to let it come out or lose it.
> Slide the screw away from the adjustment knob to unlock it. With care, pull
> out on the knob. In this position the knob will only adjust the Kollsman's
> window. Set the QNH in the Kollsman's window. When manipulating the knob in
> and out, use a very slight and gentle twisting force to accommodate its
> movement. Move the knob to the in position, slide the screw/lock back to
> where the screw can be turned in to its original position. If its within 50
> ft you got it, if not, do it again.
>
> Careful,
> John D.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Shirley Harding" <ShirleyH@oceanbroadband.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 2:56 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Altimeter error
>
>
> > <ShirleyH@oceanbroadband.net>
> >
> > Today the altimeter in our RV6 developed a strange fault. When we set
> > airfield elevation on the ground the pressure displayed was much lower
> > than
> > reported on the forecast. We set the forecast qnh and that gave an
> > altimeter
> > error of about 600 feet high. We reset to airfield elevation and took off.
> > At altitude we set the area qnh reported on Jandakot ATIS which was 20 mb
> > higher than our altimeter was indicating.
> >
> > We've checked the static lines - no blockages or leaks that we can find.
> > Any
> > thoughts?
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Shirley
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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I don't know any instances of Fuel Lube being used but a few of the folks in the
Minnesota Wing of Van Air Force say a product called TiteSeal is a fine alternative.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138999#138999
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: cutting canopy |
Added a year to the project? ;) Seriously, if it didn't crack, you're
almost home free!
do not archive
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Bob Collins wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Too late for me now but I'm curious if I've introduced a problem into my canopy
project unwittingly. I turned my drill VERY slowly when drilling the canopy,
exerting very little pressure. My goal was to scrape...not cut... when I drilled.
What have I done by drilling too slowly?
>
>--------
>Bob Collins
>St. Paul, Minn.
>Letters from Flyover Country
>http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Altimeter error - ASI question |
Doug,
That one has to go to the shop. I can say though, airspeed indicator errors
are generally in the Pitot/Static system. The main trouble spot seems to be
the Static Port position and height above the surrounding surface. There are
some very elegant solutions available for static ports, but in my opinion
they are just a fancy way to terminate the static tubing at skin level. A
cheap pop rivet with enough length to install the tubing on and a washer
placed between it and the head of the gun when it is installed has worked
for me many times. The washer is to make the rivet head flat and without the
slight oval shape they normally have.
John D.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Altimeter error - ASI question
>
> John,
>
> Very interesting procedure for adjusting the Altimeter. I'm looking
> forward to the outcome from Shirley.
>
> Do you have a procedure for adjusting an airspeed indicator?
>
> I have a very nice second hand ASI (Unknown German brand, model is
> FM-440/4) but has an error at zero diff. pressure of ~25 kts. I have
> not tested the range yet so I don't know if this is across the scale.
>
> Can this be adjusted or do I have a dud?
>
> TIA
> Doug Gray
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: cutting canopy |
Right. Saw that. Followed it. But the question wasn't about the procedure, it
was about the speed at which a drill bit should turn in plexi.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139008#139008
Message 19
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| Subject: | VHB Tape vs Rivets |
I have recently seen an episode of "Modern Marvels" on the history
channel called "Sticky Stuff". One of the things they had on that show,
is this tape called VHB tape made by 3M. In a test they repeatedly
impacted a 16 lb bowling ball against 2 sheets of aluminum bonded with
VHB tape till it failed, then they did the same test with the 2 sheets
of aluminum riveted together. Since this was 3M doing the test,
obviously there tape performed better. However based on the fact that
bowling balls are between 8.5 and 8.6" in diameter, it appears as they
only had a rivet every 4 inches. I would be really curious to see how
the tape compared to doing it with the appropriate number of rivets.
Anyone want to try the test? Below is a link to a youtube video of the
demonstration.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=ZhKreIqU_R4
--
Chris W
KE5GIX
"Protect your digital freedom and privacy, eliminate DRM,
learn more at http://www.defectivebydesign.org/what_is_drm"
Message 20
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Hi Jim,
I am of the same opinion as you. I have put EZ fuel lube on my
cork gaskets (both sides) and installed them. I used moderate pressure
on the screws so they should not leak. I need to get some av gas and run
some test strips to see how it is affected. It seems at this point to
reject the fuel quite nicely. So--- I am running with it that way.
Worst case, I'll have to replace the gaskets and do it bare . I can not
think about pro seal on the fittings. I did get some silicone O-Ringed
screws from McMaster Carr so the fuel would not come back up the threads
and leak that way. For the standard float level Stewart Warner senders,
I added a ground wire to the sender to be sure they would work. I think
I have it on my web site at www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn so take a
peak.
Jim
N15JN
(almost ready for paint)
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: cutting canopy |
I'd say if you didn't crack anything, you are good to go
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Collins
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 3:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: cutting canopy
dale1rv6(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Use moderate drill speed (not slow) and low pressure. Test your dull bit
on scrap first.
> Dale
>
Too late for me now but I'm curious if I've introduced a problem into my
canopy project unwittingly. I turned my drill VERY slowly when drilling the
canopy, exerting very little pressure. My goal was to scrape...not cut...
when I drilled. What have I done by drilling too slowly?
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138991#138991
4:54 PM
4:54 PM
Message 22
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Jim, My A&P told me that he has uses EZ Turn to seal fuel tank senders on
various aircraft over many years and that it has worked good. I'm hoping he
is right because it sure is easier to work with. I used proseal on all the
other parts on the fuel tank sender and fuel line but I used the EZ Turn on
the screws and gasket. Thanks for your reply, it's great to know someone
else is trying this product. I need to add fuel and then test it over the
years for the final outcome. More to come later!
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim@juno.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 3:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pro Seal
>
> Hi Jim,
> I am of the same opinion as you. I have put EZ fuel lube on my
> cork gaskets (both sides) and installed them. I used moderate pressure
> on the screws so they should not leak. I need to get some av gas and run
> some test strips to see how it is affected. It seems at this point to
> reject the fuel quite nicely. So--- I am running with it that way.
> Worst case, I'll have to replace the gaskets and do it bare . I can not
> think about pro seal on the fittings. I did get some silicone O-Ringed
> screws from McMaster Carr so the fuel would not come back up the threads
> and leak that way. For the standard float level Stewart Warner senders,
> I added a ground wire to the sender to be sure they would work. I think
> I have it on my web site at www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn so take a
> peak.
>
> Jim
> N15JN
> (almost ready for paint)
>
>
> --
> 8:44 AM
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
Just another data point...
When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare of a
time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as replacements for
the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the heads (Allen Wrench
type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing@carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 2:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection plates
> and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In my opinion;
> 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2. The bottom of
> the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which makes a sealing
> edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if you need to remove
> or re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is much easier to do with a
> short Allen wrench segment in one of the very small right angle ratchet
> screwdrivers handles.
>
> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out with
> the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
> Dale Ensing
>
>
>> Part of your decision may have to do with what happens if you have to
>> remove the sender. It's a lot easier just unscrewing and pulling it off
>> if all you've used is cork. When meetingthe Van's SB, I pulled both
>> access plates off -- one with cork and proseal and one with just
>> proseal -- and found both were quite an exercise.
>>
>>
>> // Rubber gaskets - just in case they don't work and I have to remove the
>> sender, I intend to use the provided rubber gaskets without sealer, but
>> put plenty of sealer on the screws before assembly. Good idea?
>>
>> I did not use the rubber gasket because I found it quite difficult with
>> the screws on the call-out to get the sender attached. To me, it seemed
>> the rubber gasket was too think. I just ProSealed.
>
>
>
Message 24
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Check the RV-list archives before you go with the fuel lube and gasket
approach. I think you'll find a spotty success rate.
History shows that using Proseal with no gasket gives you the best odds of a
leak free tank. I'd go that route simply because it is a hassle to work in
the wing root are once the wings are installed, and you'll be happier
avoiding that chore down the road.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim@juno.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pro Seal
>
> Hi Jim,
> I am of the same opinion as you. I have put EZ fuel lube on my
> cork gaskets (both sides) and installed them. I used moderate pressure
> on the screws so they should not leak. I need to get some av gas and run
> some test strips to see how it is affected. It seems at this point to
> reject the fuel quite nicely. So--- I am running with it that way.
> Worst case, I'll have to replace the gaskets and do it bare . I can not
> think about pro seal on the fittings. I did get some silicone O-Ringed
> screws from McMaster Carr so the fuel would not come back up the threads
> and leak that way. For the standard float level Stewart Warner senders,
> I added a ground wire to the sender to be sure they would work. I think
> I have it on my web site at www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn so take a
> peak.
>
> Jim
> N15JN
> (almost ready for paint)
>
>
>
Message 25
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Silicone is not recommended for use with hydrocarbons (avgas or mogas)
as it swells and gets very soft. Viton, fluorosilicone, Kalrez are all
excellent when exposed to fuel. Buna-N is good and especially where it
is not immersed in gasoline is an acceptable inexpensive choice.
Dick Tasker.
James H Nelson wrote:
>
> Hi Jim,
> I am of the same opinion as you. I have put EZ fuel lube on my
> cork gaskets (both sides) and installed them. I used moderate pressure
> on the screws so they should not leak. I need to get some av gas and run
> some test strips to see how it is affected. It seems at this point to
> reject the fuel quite nicely. So--- I am running with it that way.
> Worst case, I'll have to replace the gaskets and do it bare . I can not
> think about pro seal on the fittings. I did get some silicone O-Ringed
> screws from McMaster Carr so the fuel would not come back up the threads
> and leak that way. For the standard float level Stewart Warner senders,
> I added a ground wire to the sender to be sure they would work. I think
> I have it on my web site at www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn so take a
> peak.
>
> Jim
> N15JN
> (almost ready for paint)
>
>
>
Message 26
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Hi guys:
On 2 of my RV=B9s and several other local ones, we have simply used Aviation
Form A Gasket (available at any NAPA store) and the cork gaskets to seal th
e
tank covers. This was worked flawlessly with no leaks fore many years.
Give it a try!!
Doug Weiler
N722DW, 400+ hours
On 10/9/07 9:23 AM, "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com> wrote:
> I posted this over the weekend on the VAF site, but got no response.
>
> -8A QB N192NM so I haven't had the fun assembling the tanks. However, it
is
> time to install the float-type fuel senders.
>
> I've got a tube of "stuff" from Vans that's supposed to work - if I can r
eally
> figure out the mixing instructions. Some really basic questions:
>
> 1. Urban legend sez to toss the cork gaskets. Is that correct?
> 2. Bead size - what's appropriate? While subscribing to the "More is bett
er"
> idea, what happens if the excess oozes from the cover plate into the tank
and
> possibly breaks loose sometime in the future?
> 3. Rubber gaskets - just in case the damn thing doesn't work and I have t
o
> remove the sender, I intend to use the provided rubber gaskets without se
aler,
> but put plenty of sealer on the screws before assembly. Good idea?
> 4. Shelf life - or more accurately - "After mixing useful life". How long
do I
> have after mixing for useful application capability?
> Paul Valovich
> N192NM Reserved (Again)
>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
Kyle
Was wondering.....did the socket heads of the Allen head cap screws strip
out because of the initial torque when first installed? Or, where there
other factors? It is easy to over torque them because of the hex socket vs.
the Phillips.
Dale
>
> Just another data point...
>
> When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare of a
> time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as replacements
> for the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the heads (Allen
> Wrench type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
>
> KB
>>
>> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection
>> plates and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In my
>> opinion; 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2. The
>> bottom of the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which makes a
>> sealing edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if you need
>> to remove or re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is much easier to
>> do with a short Allen wrench segment in one of the very small right angle
>> ratchet screwdrivers handles.
>>
>> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out with
>> the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
>> Dale Ensing
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
It has been a couple of years since my bad experience, but my recollection
is that the heads stripped simply because of the torque required to run the
screws down into the platenuts. They were not even snug when they stripped.
I was very surprised that they stripped out in platenuts that had already
been run-in.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing@carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 9:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
> Kyle
> Was wondering.....did the socket heads of the Allen head cap screws strip
> out because of the initial torque when first installed? Or, where there
> other factors? It is easy to over torque them because of the hex socket
> vs. the Phillips.
> Dale
>
>>
>> Just another data point...
>>
>> When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare of
>> a time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as
>> replacements for the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the
>> heads (Allen Wrench type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
>>
>> KB
>
>>>
>>> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection
>>> plates and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In my
>>> opinion; 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2. The
>>> bottom of the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which makes
>>> a sealing edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if you
>>> need to remove or re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is much
>>> easier to do with a short Allen wrench segment in one of the very small
>>> right angle ratchet screwdrivers handles.
>>>
>>> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out with
>>> the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
>>> Dale Ensing
>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Property Tax Appeal |
Listers:
I'm in the process of appealing the property tax valuation on my RV-9A.
I spent approximately 60k and it's being valued at 108k by San
Bernardino Co., CA. So I'm looking for 3 or 4 people who have sold or
bought an RV-9A who would be willing to share their hard data with me
such as name, phone#, selling price, etc. All information would be kept
confidential shared only with the County.
For comparison my RV is VFR, O-320, fixed pitch prop, Dynon, 1 radio,
handheld GPS, and Digitrak.
Please reply off list to: jpaynter@cyberg8t.com
Thanks in advance,
Jim Paynter
RV-9A, KCCB
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Epoxy not hardening |
Hey guys,
I'm having a problem with the epoxy (aeropoxy) I used for coating the cowl
surface. I thinned with acetone per Van's directions, but after 4 days now
(or so) it's still tacky. It feels smooth if you run your finger over it,
but if you just touch it - it's sticky.
Batch was purchased 10 mo ago (no date on container)
Stored in 60F+
Parts are curing in a humidity controlled environment, 70-75F
Epoxy worked ok 3 months ago
Mixed by weight on postal scale
That said, I think I figured it out... but check me. A few of my colleagues
mentioned that my hardener might be the problem and that it needs stirring.
I opened the can and it had crystallized slightly. I suppose if I read the
side of the can in CAPS where it says "MAY CRYSTALLIZE IN STORAGE" that I
would have checked earlier. My questions are:
1. Since I mixed a few batches without homogeneous hardener, would the
mixed remainder be of the wrong constituents and should I just throw it out?
I'm not planning on using this stuff for anything flight critical or
structural. Perhaps I need to heat the hardener to re-mix it correctly?
2. How can I remove the sticky crap off the cowling so I can start over, or
is there something I can do to cure it? Sanding just gums up the sandpaper
and acetone just made it stickier. I tried a small corner of MEK, but
wonder if I'll hurt the prepreg substrate.
Any suggestions? All comments will be appreciated.
-Andy
Message 31
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Listers:
I'm getting old and forget things. Please forgive me! On my previuos
post I forgot to add that the data I need should be for an RV-9A bought
or sold between the months of Oct., 2005 and Mar., 2006.
Thanks again,
Jim Paynter
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Epoxy not hardening |
Order a new cowl? DOH! Just kidding. What about that deadly stuff
called MEK???
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Andrew Olech wrote:
>
>
>Hey guys,
>
>I'm having a problem with the epoxy (aeropoxy) I used for coating the cowl
>surface. I thinned with acetone per Van's directions, but after 4 days now
>(or so) it's still tacky. It feels smooth if you run your finger over it,
>but if you just touch it - it's sticky.
>
>Batch was purchased 10 mo ago (no date on container)
>Stored in 60F+
>Parts are curing in a humidity controlled environment, 70-75F
>Epoxy worked ok 3 months ago
>Mixed by weight on postal scale
>
>That said, I think I figured it out... but check me. A few of my colleagues
>mentioned that my hardener might be the problem and that it needs stirring.
>I opened the can and it had crystallized slightly. I suppose if I read the
>side of the can in CAPS where it says "MAY CRYSTALLIZE IN STORAGE" that I
>would have checked earlier. My questions are:
>
>1. Since I mixed a few batches without homogeneous hardener, would the
>mixed remainder be of the wrong constituents and should I just throw it out?
>I'm not planning on using this stuff for anything flight critical or
>structural. Perhaps I need to heat the hardener to re-mix it correctly?
>
>2. How can I remove the sticky crap off the cowling so I can start over, or
>is there something I can do to cure it? Sanding just gums up the sandpaper
>and acetone just made it stickier. I tried a small corner of MEK, but
>wonder if I'll hurt the prepreg substrate.
>
>Any suggestions? All comments will be appreciated.
>
>-Andy
>
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Property Tax Appeal |
I would think that the receipts of what you paid for your kit would do the
trick. The value is the sum of the cost. Unless the state of CA thinks they
can tax you on the value of your labor.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Paynter
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 10:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Property Tax Appeal
Listers:
I'm in the process of appealing the property tax valuation on my RV-9A.
I spent approximately 60k and it's being valued at 108k by San
Bernardino Co., CA. So I'm looking for 3 or 4 people who have sold or
bought an RV-9A who would be willing to share their hard data with me
such as name, phone#, selling price, etc. All information would be kept
confidential shared only with the County.
For comparison my RV is VFR, O-320, fixed pitch prop, Dynon, 1 radio,
handheld GPS, and Digitrak.
Please reply off list to: jpaynter@cyberg8t.com
Thanks in advance,
Jim Paynter
RV-9A, KCCB
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Epoxy not hardening |
When ever you have a problem like this I beleive you should always call the manufacturer,
they know better than anybody as to what is going on. I had the same
problem on the cowl and after calling the manufacturer they told me that it
is normal to get a film on the surface of the epoxy......I dont remember the reasoning
(its been 5 years) to get it off I just sanded, yes it plugged the sand
paper but I had a bunch so......
Scott Bilinski
RV-8a
----- Original Message ----
From: Andrew Olech <olechap@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 9, 2007 7:29:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Epoxy not hardening
Hey guys,
I'm having a problem with the epoxy (aeropoxy) I used for coating the cowl
surface. I thinned with acetone per Van's directions, but after 4 days now
(or so) it's still tacky. It feels smooth if you run your finger over it,
but if you just touch it - it's sticky.
Batch was purchased 10 mo ago (no date on container)
Stored in 60F+
Parts are curing in a humidity controlled environment, 70-75F
Epoxy worked ok 3 months ago
Mixed by weight on postal scale
That said, I think I figured it out... but check me. A few of my colleagues
mentioned that my hardener might be the problem and that it needs stirring.
I opened the can and it had crystallized slightly. I suppose if I read the
side of the can in CAPS where it says "MAY CRYSTALLIZE IN STORAGE" that I
would have checked earlier. My questions are:
1. Since I mixed a few batches without homogeneous hardener, would the
mixed remainder be of the wrong constituents and should I just throw it out?
I'm not planning on using this stuff for anything flight critical or
structural. Perhaps I need to heat the hardener to re-mix it correctly?
2. How can I remove the sticky crap off the cowling so I can start over, or
is there something I can do to cure it? Sanding just gums up the sandpaper
and acetone just made it stickier. I tried a small corner of MEK, but
wonder if I'll hurt the prepreg substrate.
Any suggestions? All comments will be appreciated.
-Andy
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell.
http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
I beleive socket head cap screws are recommended here.......if memory serves, much
harder to strip than phillips.
Scott Bilinski
RV-8a
----- Original Message ----
From: Kyle Boatright <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 9, 2007 6:42:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
It has been a couple of years since my bad experience, but my recollection
is that the heads stripped simply because of the torque required to run the
screws down into the platenuts. They were not even snug when they stripped.
I was very surprised that they stripped out in platenuts that had already
been run-in.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing@carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 9:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
> Kyle
> Was wondering.....did the socket heads of the Allen head cap screws strip
> out because of the initial torque when first installed? Or, where there
> other factors? It is easy to over torque them because of the hex socket
> vs. the Phillips.
> Dale
>
>>
>> Just another data point...
>>
>> When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare of
>> a time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as
>> replacements for the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the
>> heads (Allen Wrench type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
>>
>> KB
>
>>>
>>> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection
>>> plates and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In my
>>> opinion; 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2. The
>>> bottom of the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which makes
>>> a sealing edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if you
>>> need to remove or re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is much
>>> easier to do with a short Allen wrench segment in one of the very small
>>> right angle ratchet screwdrivers handles.
>>>
>>> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out with
>>> the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
>>> Dale Ensing
>
>
>
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news,
photos & more.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?refer=1GNXIC
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Epoxy not hardening |
Andy,
Try www.fibreglast.com for help. They a resin company only and have a whole
on-line help section. I'm getting ready to do my epoxy work and have dealt
with Fibreglast before when I was mold making. Great source for products
and advice. Sounds like I should have posted it earlier.
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Olech" <olechap@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 10:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Epoxy not hardening
>
>
> Hey guys,
>
> I'm having a problem with the epoxy (aeropoxy) I used for coating the cowl
> surface. I thinned with acetone per Van's directions, but after 4 days
> now
> (or so) it's still tacky. It feels smooth if you run your finger over it,
> but if you just touch it - it's sticky.
>
> Batch was purchased 10 mo ago (no date on container)
> Stored in 60F+
> Parts are curing in a humidity controlled environment, 70-75F
> Epoxy worked ok 3 months ago
> Mixed by weight on postal scale
>
> That said, I think I figured it out... but check me. A few of my
> colleagues
> mentioned that my hardener might be the problem and that it needs
> stirring.
> I opened the can and it had crystallized slightly. I suppose if I read
> the
> side of the can in CAPS where it says "MAY CRYSTALLIZE IN STORAGE" that I
> would have checked earlier. My questions are:
>
> 1. Since I mixed a few batches without homogeneous hardener, would the
> mixed remainder be of the wrong constituents and should I just throw it
> out?
> I'm not planning on using this stuff for anything flight critical or
> structural. Perhaps I need to heat the hardener to re-mix it correctly?
>
> 2. How can I remove the sticky crap off the cowling so I can start over,
> or
> is there something I can do to cure it? Sanding just gums up the
> sandpaper
> and acetone just made it stickier. I tried a small corner of MEK, but
> wonder if I'll hurt the prepreg substrate.
>
> Any suggestions? All comments will be appreciated.
>
> -Andy
>
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Property Tax Appeal |
One other thing, if the state is trying to tax your labor, tell them that
because of product liability issues, you will never sell it but scrap it
instead. Therefore, it's resale value is zero and you owe nothing. It's been
done, witness airplanes being donated to museums, turned into windsocks, or
cut up into pieces. All to avoid product liability.
So, argue that because it's an experimental aircraft its value is zero.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Gray
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 11:21 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Property Tax Appeal
I would think that the receipts of what you paid for your kit would do the
trick. The value is the sum of the cost. Unless the state of CA thinks they
can tax you on the value of your labor.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Paynter
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 10:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Property Tax Appeal
Listers:
I'm in the process of appealing the property tax valuation on my RV-9A.
I spent approximately 60k and it's being valued at 108k by San
Bernardino Co., CA. So I'm looking for 3 or 4 people who have sold or
bought an RV-9A who would be willing to share their hard data with me
such as name, phone#, selling price, etc. All information would be kept
confidential shared only with the County.
For comparison my RV is VFR, O-320, fixed pitch prop, Dynon, 1 radio,
handheld GPS, and Digitrak.
Please reply off list to: jpaynter@cyberg8t.com
Thanks in advance,
Jim Paynter
RV-9A, KCCB
Message 38
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| Subject: | Epoxy not hardening |
Set it out in the sun to warm up and cure.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 11:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Epoxy not hardening
Order a new cowl? DOH! Just kidding. What about that deadly stuff
called MEK???
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Andrew Olech wrote:
>
>
>Hey guys,
>
>I'm having a problem with the epoxy (aeropoxy) I used for coating the cowl
>surface. I thinned with acetone per Van's directions, but after 4 days now
>(or so) it's still tacky. It feels smooth if you run your finger over it,
>but if you just touch it - it's sticky.
>
>Batch was purchased 10 mo ago (no date on container)
>Stored in 60F+
>Parts are curing in a humidity controlled environment, 70-75F
>Epoxy worked ok 3 months ago
>Mixed by weight on postal scale
>
>That said, I think I figured it out... but check me. A few of my
colleagues
>mentioned that my hardener might be the problem and that it needs stirring.
>I opened the can and it had crystallized slightly. I suppose if I read the
>side of the can in CAPS where it says "MAY CRYSTALLIZE IN STORAGE" that I
>would have checked earlier. My questions are:
>
>1. Since I mixed a few batches without homogeneous hardener, would the
>mixed remainder be of the wrong constituents and should I just throw it
out?
>I'm not planning on using this stuff for anything flight critical or
>structural. Perhaps I need to heat the hardener to re-mix it correctly?
>
>2. How can I remove the sticky crap off the cowling so I can start over, or
>is there something I can do to cure it? Sanding just gums up the sandpaper
>and acetone just made it stickier. I tried a small corner of MEK, but
>wonder if I'll hurt the prepreg substrate.
>
>Any suggestions? All comments will be appreciated.
>
>-Andy
>
>
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Property Tax Appeal |
Now THAT one I can buy ;) If you try this route, let me know how it
works out. I might be able to apply that theory to other items of
"homebuilt" property such as hotrods, etc. do not archive
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Bruce Gray wrote:
>
>One other thing, if the state is trying to tax your labor, tell them that
>because of product liability issues, you will never sell it but scrap it
>instead. Therefore, it's resale value is zero and you owe nothing. It's been
>done, witness airplanes being donated to museums, turned into windsocks, or
>cut up into pieces. All to avoid product liability.
>
>So, argue that because it's an experimental aircraft its value is zero.
>
>Bruce
>www.Glasair.org
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Gray
>Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 11:21 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Property Tax Appeal
>
>
>I would think that the receipts of what you paid for your kit would do the
>trick. The value is the sum of the cost. Unless the state of CA thinks they
>can tax you on the value of your labor.
>
>Bruce
>www.Glasair.org
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Paynter
>Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 10:40 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Property Tax Appeal
>
>
>Listers:
>I'm in the process of appealing the property tax valuation on my RV-9A.
>I spent approximately 60k and it's being valued at 108k by San
>Bernardino Co., CA. So I'm looking for 3 or 4 people who have sold or
>bought an RV-9A who would be willing to share their hard data with me
>such as name, phone#, selling price, etc. All information would be kept
>confidential shared only with the County.
>
>For comparison my RV is VFR, O-320, fixed pitch prop, Dynon, 1 radio,
>handheld GPS, and Digitrak.
>
>Please reply off list to: jpaynter@cyberg8t.com
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Jim Paynter
>RV-9A, KCCB
>
>
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sende |
I had the same stripped-screw issue and it really sucked. Plus, with the
wings on you can't get any tools in there. I was getting leaks around the
screw heads. I ended up putting some Marine epoxy(label said can be used to
seal fuel tanks) around each of the leaky screws and it fixed the problem.
It has only been a couple months so I can't guarantee how long it will last.
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
>
>
> It has been a couple of years since my bad experience, but my recollection
> is that the heads stripped simply because of the torque required to run
> the
> screws down into the platenuts. They were not even snug when they
> stripped.
>
> I was very surprised that they stripped out in platenuts that had already
> been run-in.
>
> KB
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dale Ensing" <densing@carolina.rr.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 9:21 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
>
> >
> > Kyle
> > Was wondering.....did the socket heads of the Allen head cap screws
> strip
> > out because of the initial torque when first installed? Or, where there
> > other factors? It is easy to over torque them because of the hex socket
> > vs. the Phillips.
> > Dale
> >
> kboatright1@comcast.net>
> >>
> >> Just another data point...
> >>
> >> When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare
> of
> >> a time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as
> >> replacements for the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the
> >> heads (Allen Wrench type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
> >>
> >> KB
> >
> >>>
> >>> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection
> >>> plates and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In
> my
> >>> opinion; 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2.
> The
> >>> bottom of the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which
> makes
> >>> a sealing edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if you
> >>> need to remove or re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is much
> >>> easier to do with a short Allen wrench segment in one of the very
> small
> >>> right angle ratchet screwdrivers handles.
> >>>
> >>> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out
> with
> >>> the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
> >>> Dale Ensing
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail,
> news, photos & more.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?refer=1GNXIC
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Property Tax Appeal |
This is the reason I'll register my RV-10 as anything but 'RV-10'.
Something like a 'VANS special' might work. The State tax guys look up
ads for airplanes to set value of like-registered planes. The other tax
item is to send your state whatever you want (but be somewhat
reasonable) BEFORE they send you a letter. Send them the tax just
before you register your plane since registration is what triggers the
tax letter.
Linn
do not archive
>>
>> Listers:
>> I'm in the process of appealing the property tax valuation on my
>> RV-9A. I spent approximately 60k and it's being valued at 108k by
>> San Bernardino Co., CA. So I'm looking for 3 or 4 people who have
>> sold or bought an RV-9A who would be willing to share their hard data
>> with me such as name, phone#, selling price, etc. All information
>> would be kept confidential shared only with the County.
>
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Property Tax Appeal |
Yes, that's a good approach. I registered my Glasair III as a SH25. But
since then my state (Connecticut) has abolished the property tax on
airplanes and replaced it with a simple $100 annual registration fee, lucky
me!
Oh, and they just did away with the 6% sales tax on aircraft parts and
services.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 12:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Property Tax Appeal
This is the reason I'll register my RV-10 as anything but 'RV-10'.
Something like a 'VANS special' might work. The State tax guys look up
ads for airplanes to set value of like-registered planes. The other tax
item is to send your state whatever you want (but be somewhat
reasonable) BEFORE they send you a letter. Send them the tax just
before you register your plane since registration is what triggers the
tax letter.
Linn
do not archive
>>
>> Listers:
>> I'm in the process of appealing the property tax valuation on my
>> RV-9A. I spent approximately 60k and it's being valued at 108k by
>> San Bernardino Co., CA. So I'm looking for 3 or 4 people who have
>> sold or bought an RV-9A who would be willing to share their hard data
>> with me such as name, phone#, selling price, etc. All information
>> would be kept confidential shared only with the County.
>
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
Dale and others,
I bought some SS 8X32 round or button head screws that had the annoying
habit of stripping out during installation.
The Allen wrench key socket size was 'about' 3/32" ..(Its been a while) ;-)
Later I bought a box of SS 8X32 "Allen head' screws. These required an Allen
head socket wrench size of 'about' 3/16" and are plenty strong enough to be
used in places such as the fuel tanks etc.
I have yet to strip out one of these Allen head screws even when being
deliberately abusive during a test to see what they could take.
They have been holding back fuel for a year so far and they offer far better
access in tight quarters than their Philips head type cousins.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing@carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
> Kyle
> Was wondering.....did the socket heads of the Allen head cap screws strip
> out because of the initial torque when first installed? Or, where there
> other factors? It is easy to over torque them because of the hex socket
> vs. the Phillips.
> Dale
>
>>
>> Just another data point...
>>
>> When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare of
>> a time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as
>> replacements for the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the
>> heads (Allen Wrench type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
>>
>> KB
>
>>>
>>> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection
>>> plates and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In my
>>> opinion; 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2. The
>>> bottom of the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which makes
>>> a sealing edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if you
>>> need to remove or re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is much
>>> easier to do with a short Allen wrench segment in one of the very small
>>> right angle ratchet screwdrivers handles.
>>>
>>> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out with
>>> the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
>>> Dale Ensing
>
>
>
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
Dale,
Try SS Torx screws, www.microfasteners.com they take a #20 6 point torx bit,
at any hardware store. Same driver as premium deck screws. You cannot strip
them.
Mike H
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 2:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
> Dale and others,
>
> I bought some SS 8X32 round or button head screws that had the annoying
> habit of stripping out during installation.
> The Allen wrench key socket size was 'about' 3/32" ..(Its been a while)
> ;-)
>
> Later I bought a box of SS 8X32 "Allen head' screws. These required an
> Allen head socket wrench size of 'about' 3/16" and are plenty strong
> enough to be used in places such as the fuel tanks etc.
> I have yet to strip out one of these Allen head screws even when being
> deliberately abusive during a test to see what they could take.
> They have been holding back fuel for a year so far and they offer far
> better access in tight quarters than their Philips head type cousins.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dale Ensing" <densing@carolina.rr.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:21 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
>
>>
>> Kyle
>> Was wondering.....did the socket heads of the Allen head cap screws strip
>> out because of the initial torque when first installed? Or, where there
>> other factors? It is easy to over torque them because of the hex socket
>> vs. the Phillips.
>> Dale
>>
>>> <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>>>
>>> Just another data point...
>>>
>>> When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare of
>>> a time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as
>>> replacements for the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the
>>> heads (Allen Wrench type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
>>>
>>> KB
>>
>>>>
>>>> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection
>>>> plates and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In my
>>>> opinion; 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2.
>>>> The bottom of the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which
>>>> makes a sealing edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if
>>>> you need to remove or re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is
>>>> much easier to do with a short Allen wrench segment in one of the very
>>>> small right angle ratchet screwdrivers handles.
>>>>
>>>> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out with
>>>> the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
>>>> Dale Ensing
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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