Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:29 AM - test (Neal George)
2. 07:59 AM - countersink, dimple and nutplates (Carlos Sa)
3. 10:09 AM - Re: countersink, dimple and nutplates (Ed)
4. 12:12 PM - FOR SALE; RV6 WING KIT (John Veld)
5. 10:42 PM - Re: countersink, dimple and nutplates (mike humphrey)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
do not archive
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | countersink, dimple and nutplates |
Hello, all
Pardon the interruption: I am and CH601 (Zenair's Zodiac) builder, and am looking
for some information and advice.
I want to build an access panel like the ones in the attached picture. countersinking,
dimpling and nutplates being rare things in a CH601, I thought I would
turn to the community of builders that does this the most.
I have done a good deal of research, but I don't feel confident enough to proceed.
So, here are my questions & concerns:
1) The CH601 skin is 0.020" thick. I suppose this is too thin for countersinking?
Do I dimple instead?
2) If I dimple the skin, I presume I should also dimple the material underneath...?
In the case of the nutplate, I presume I should get one with the dimpled
lugs? (I saw it in Wicks' on-line catalog: MS21049)
3) I have been unable to relate screw size to dimple set size. How does this work?
Any advice and suggestion welcome. Part numbers would be great !!!
Thanks much for your time - now back to your regular broadcast.
Carlos Sa
--------
CH601-HD, plans
Montreal, Canada
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140989#140989
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/access_panel_412.jpg
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: countersink, dimple and nutplates |
Carlos,
.020 is indeed too thin for countersinking a standard rivet, but you can
get away with "oops" rivets (sold by Avery and others) which have much
smaller heads and require a much shallower countersink. You wouldn't
need to have dimpled nutplates if you use them. They are also known as
shear head rivets. I use them a lot for holding nutplates.
An alternative to dimpled nutplates is to dimple them yourself. I ground
one side of the female die flat so that it clears the central portion of
the nutplate to facilitate the process.
Are you using flush screws? If so, you will need the countersunk
nutplates. You don't have to get the ones with dimpled lugs if you
dimple them yourself. Avery and Cleaveland tools have dimple dies for
screw holes. Another thing you can do, if you're too cheap to buy the
dimple dies, is to make a jig with a C-sunk nutplate riveted to a scrap
of aluminum. You would hold this behind the screw hole and run a flush
screw into it, using the nutplate as a female die. Be sure to lube the
threads of the screw and the metal around the hole and work slowly. As
always, practice on scrap first.
Have fun with it.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Carlos Sa wrote:
>
>Hello, all
>
>Pardon the interruption: I am and CH601 (Zenair's Zodiac) builder, and am looking
for some information and advice.
>
>I want to build an access panel like the ones in the attached picture. countersinking,
dimpling and nutplates being rare things in a CH601, I thought I would
turn to the community of builders that does this the most.
>
>I have done a good deal of research, but I don't feel confident enough to proceed.
So, here are my questions & concerns:
>
>1) The CH601 skin is 0.020" thick. I suppose this is too thin for countersinking?
Do I dimple instead?
>2) If I dimple the skin, I presume I should also dimple the material underneath...?
In the case of the nutplate, I presume I should get one with the dimpled
lugs? (I saw it in Wicks' on-line catalog: MS21049)
>3) I have been unable to relate screw size to dimple set size. How does this work?
>
>Any advice and suggestion welcome. Part numbers would be great !!!
>
>Thanks much for your time - now back to your regular broadcast.
>
>
>Carlos Sa
>
>--------
>CH601-HD, plans
>Montreal, Canada
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140989#140989
>
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/access_panel_412.jpg
>
>
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | FOR SALE; RV6 WING KIT |
I have an older wing kit, sn 20808, that i would like to sell. It has
Phlogiston spars, and is partially built. control surfaces have not
been built. This is NOT pre-punched. I live in Kalamazoo, MI.
Asking $3,700
Contact; John Veld
269 267-2509
jcveld@mac.com
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: countersink, dimple and nutplates |
Carlos,
For #6, #8 flush head screws you need the corresponding dimple die, ie screw
heads are different from rivet heads. Avery, Cleveland, ATS, Plane Tools,
all carry Screw dimple die sets. So you will need #40 rivet dimple die set
for the platenut rivets and the appropriate screw dimple die set. Dimpling
the platenuts is easy as Ed pointed out. Use the large size dimpled plate
nuts for the screw that you will be using if you can. They are much easier
to rivet. Platenut jigs are available at those mentioned companies as well.
Pricey but worth it if you are doing a bunch of platenuts.
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: countersink, dimple and nutplates
>
> Carlos,
>
> .020 is indeed too thin for countersinking a standard rivet, but you can
> get away with "oops" rivets (sold by Avery and others) which have much
> smaller heads and require a much shallower countersink. You wouldn't need
> to have dimpled nutplates if you use them. They are also known as shear
> head rivets. I use them a lot for holding nutplates.
>
> An alternative to dimpled nutplates is to dimple them yourself. I ground
> one side of the female die flat so that it clears the central portion of
> the nutplate to facilitate the process.
>
> Are you using flush screws? If so, you will need the countersunk
> nutplates. You don't have to get the ones with dimpled lugs if you dimple
> them yourself. Avery and Cleaveland tools have dimple dies for screw
> holes. Another thing you can do, if you're too cheap to buy the dimple
> dies, is to make a jig with a C-sunk nutplate riveted to a scrap of
> aluminum. You would hold this behind the screw hole and run a flush screw
> into it, using the nutplate as a female die. Be sure to lube the threads
> of the screw and the metal around the hole and work slowly. As always,
> practice on scrap first.
>
> Have fun with it.
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
>
> Carlos Sa wrote:
>
>>
>>Hello, all
>>
>>Pardon the interruption: I am and CH601 (Zenair's Zodiac) builder, and am
>>looking for some information and advice.
>>
>>I want to build an access panel like the ones in the attached picture.
>>countersinking, dimpling and nutplates being rare things in a CH601, I
>>thought I would turn to the community of builders that does this the most.
>>
>>I have done a good deal of research, but I don't feel confident enough to
>>proceed. So, here are my questions & concerns:
>>
>>1) The CH601 skin is 0.020" thick. I suppose this is too thin for
>>countersinking? Do I dimple instead?
>>2) If I dimple the skin, I presume I should also dimple the material
>>underneath...? In the case of the nutplate, I presume I should get one
>>with the dimpled lugs? (I saw it in Wicks' on-line catalog: MS21049)
>>3) I have been unable to relate screw size to dimple set size. How does
>>this work?
>>
>>Any advice and suggestion welcome. Part numbers would be great !!!
>>
>>Thanks much for your time - now back to your regular broadcast.
>>
>>
>>Carlos Sa
>>
>>--------
>>CH601-HD, plans
>>Montreal, Canada
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Read this topic online here:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140989#140989
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Attachments:
>>http://forums.matronics.com//files/access_panel_412.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|