---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 10/21/07: 5 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:29 AM - test (Neal George) 2. 07:59 AM - countersink, dimple and nutplates (Carlos Sa) 3. 10:09 AM - Re: countersink, dimple and nutplates (Ed) 4. 12:12 PM - FOR SALE; RV6 WING KIT (John Veld) 5. 10:42 PM - Re: countersink, dimple and nutplates (mike humphrey) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:29:29 AM PST US From: "Neal George" Subject: RV-List: test do not archive ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:59:30 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: countersink, dimple and nutplates From: "Carlos Sa" Hello, all Pardon the interruption: I am and CH601 (Zenair's Zodiac) builder, and am looking for some information and advice. I want to build an access panel like the ones in the attached picture. countersinking, dimpling and nutplates being rare things in a CH601, I thought I would turn to the community of builders that does this the most. I have done a good deal of research, but I don't feel confident enough to proceed. So, here are my questions & concerns: 1) The CH601 skin is 0.020" thick. I suppose this is too thin for countersinking? Do I dimple instead? 2) If I dimple the skin, I presume I should also dimple the material underneath...? In the case of the nutplate, I presume I should get one with the dimpled lugs? (I saw it in Wicks' on-line catalog: MS21049) 3) I have been unable to relate screw size to dimple set size. How does this work? Any advice and suggestion welcome. Part numbers would be great !!! Thanks much for your time - now back to your regular broadcast. Carlos Sa -------- CH601-HD, plans Montreal, Canada Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140989#140989 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/access_panel_412.jpg ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 10:09:09 AM PST US From: Ed Subject: Re: RV-List: countersink, dimple and nutplates Carlos, .020 is indeed too thin for countersinking a standard rivet, but you can get away with "oops" rivets (sold by Avery and others) which have much smaller heads and require a much shallower countersink. You wouldn't need to have dimpled nutplates if you use them. They are also known as shear head rivets. I use them a lot for holding nutplates. An alternative to dimpled nutplates is to dimple them yourself. I ground one side of the female die flat so that it clears the central portion of the nutplate to facilitate the process. Are you using flush screws? If so, you will need the countersunk nutplates. You don't have to get the ones with dimpled lugs if you dimple them yourself. Avery and Cleaveland tools have dimple dies for screw holes. Another thing you can do, if you're too cheap to buy the dimple dies, is to make a jig with a C-sunk nutplate riveted to a scrap of aluminum. You would hold this behind the screw hole and run a flush screw into it, using the nutplate as a female die. Be sure to lube the threads of the screw and the metal around the hole and work slowly. As always, practice on scrap first. Have fun with it. Pax, Ed Holyoke Carlos Sa wrote: > >Hello, all > >Pardon the interruption: I am and CH601 (Zenair's Zodiac) builder, and am looking for some information and advice. > >I want to build an access panel like the ones in the attached picture. countersinking, dimpling and nutplates being rare things in a CH601, I thought I would turn to the community of builders that does this the most. > >I have done a good deal of research, but I don't feel confident enough to proceed. So, here are my questions & concerns: > >1) The CH601 skin is 0.020" thick. I suppose this is too thin for countersinking? Do I dimple instead? >2) If I dimple the skin, I presume I should also dimple the material underneath...? In the case of the nutplate, I presume I should get one with the dimpled lugs? (I saw it in Wicks' on-line catalog: MS21049) >3) I have been unable to relate screw size to dimple set size. How does this work? > >Any advice and suggestion welcome. Part numbers would be great !!! > >Thanks much for your time - now back to your regular broadcast. > > >Carlos Sa > >-------- >CH601-HD, plans >Montreal, Canada > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140989#140989 > > >Attachments: > >http://forums.matronics.com//files/access_panel_412.jpg > > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 12:12:00 PM PST US From: John Veld Subject: RV-List: FOR SALE; RV6 WING KIT I have an older wing kit, sn 20808, that i would like to sell. It has Phlogiston spars, and is partially built. control surfaces have not been built. This is NOT pre-punched. I live in Kalamazoo, MI. Asking $3,700 Contact; John Veld 269 267-2509 jcveld@mac.com ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 10:42:35 PM PST US From: "mike humphrey" Subject: Re: RV-List: countersink, dimple and nutplates Carlos, For #6, #8 flush head screws you need the corresponding dimple die, ie screw heads are different from rivet heads. Avery, Cleveland, ATS, Plane Tools, all carry Screw dimple die sets. So you will need #40 rivet dimple die set for the platenut rivets and the appropriate screw dimple die set. Dimpling the platenuts is easy as Ed pointed out. Use the large size dimpled plate nuts for the screw that you will be using if you can. They are much easier to rivet. Platenut jigs are available at those mentioned companies as well. Pricey but worth it if you are doing a bunch of platenuts. Mike H 9A/8A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed" Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 2:03 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: countersink, dimple and nutplates > > Carlos, > > .020 is indeed too thin for countersinking a standard rivet, but you can > get away with "oops" rivets (sold by Avery and others) which have much > smaller heads and require a much shallower countersink. You wouldn't need > to have dimpled nutplates if you use them. They are also known as shear > head rivets. I use them a lot for holding nutplates. > > An alternative to dimpled nutplates is to dimple them yourself. I ground > one side of the female die flat so that it clears the central portion of > the nutplate to facilitate the process. > > Are you using flush screws? If so, you will need the countersunk > nutplates. You don't have to get the ones with dimpled lugs if you dimple > them yourself. Avery and Cleaveland tools have dimple dies for screw > holes. Another thing you can do, if you're too cheap to buy the dimple > dies, is to make a jig with a C-sunk nutplate riveted to a scrap of > aluminum. You would hold this behind the screw hole and run a flush screw > into it, using the nutplate as a female die. Be sure to lube the threads > of the screw and the metal around the hole and work slowly. As always, > practice on scrap first. > > Have fun with it. > > Pax, > > Ed Holyoke > > > Carlos Sa wrote: > >> >>Hello, all >> >>Pardon the interruption: I am and CH601 (Zenair's Zodiac) builder, and am >>looking for some information and advice. >> >>I want to build an access panel like the ones in the attached picture. >>countersinking, dimpling and nutplates being rare things in a CH601, I >>thought I would turn to the community of builders that does this the most. >> >>I have done a good deal of research, but I don't feel confident enough to >>proceed. So, here are my questions & concerns: >> >>1) The CH601 skin is 0.020" thick. I suppose this is too thin for >>countersinking? Do I dimple instead? >>2) If I dimple the skin, I presume I should also dimple the material >>underneath...? In the case of the nutplate, I presume I should get one >>with the dimpled lugs? (I saw it in Wicks' on-line catalog: MS21049) >>3) I have been unable to relate screw size to dimple set size. How does >>this work? >> >>Any advice and suggestion welcome. Part numbers would be great !!! >> >>Thanks much for your time - now back to your regular broadcast. >> >> >>Carlos Sa >> >>-------- >>CH601-HD, plans >>Montreal, Canada >> >> >> >> >>Read this topic online here: >> >>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140989#140989 >> >> >> >> >>Attachments: >>http://forums.matronics.com//files/access_panel_412.jpg >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.