RV-List Digest Archive

Wed 10/24/07


Total Messages Posted: 7



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:21 AM - Re: Gear Legs wheel replacementGear Legs wheel replacementGear Legs wheel replacement (John Dalman)
     2. 07:57 AM - Re: Gear Legs wheel replacementGear Legs wheel replacementGear Legs wheel replacement (Tim Bryan)
     3. 12:04 PM - Tip-up gas struts (Steve Chambers)
     4. 12:56 PM - New product annoucement (=?utf-8?B?Qm9iIE5ld21hbg==?=)
     5. 05:18 PM - Aileron trailing edge skislope effect (Michael D. Cencula)
     6. 07:03 PM - Re: Aileron trailing edge skislope effect (William Gill)
     7. 08:21 PM - Re: Aileron trailing edge skislope effect (Rob Prior)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 07:21:58 AM PST US
    From: John Dalman <jdalman2000@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Gear Legs wheel replacementGear Legs wheel replacementGear
    Legs wheel replacement I used a jack under the wing last night on my RV-8. We started to jack both wings but realized the cg was forward of the jacking points when the tail wheel started coming off the floor so we put some weight (carefully) on the horizontal stabilizer and jacked one side at a time. Worked fine, was very stable, and it allowed unencumbered access to the wheel.=0A=0AAs someone e lse implied earlier, the wings support the entire weight of the plane when we're flying and can support several times the planes weight when flying. B esides, Dicky V. says that the tie down mount is fine for jacking the plane . If he says it, it's probably true.=0A=0AJohn


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:57:51 AM PST US
    From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
    Subject: Gear Legs wheel replacementGear Legs wheel replacementGear
    Legs wheel replacement I should have elaborated when I posted my comments about the jack. I did post about using my wings for lifting each and every time I fly. I have absolutely no aversion to using wing jacks. The problem for me is I never really need to lift the whole plane but typically only a wheel. I don't own any wing jacks and they are a bit more expensive than I want to pay. They also take up some extra room in the hangar. I have access to borrow them but it would take me longer to go transport them for use than to just use the little rig from Avery or one of the others as mentioned. I have seen methods for jacking with a floor jack and some blocking to the wing but that doesn't appeal to me. This is probably the main reason why many of us choose to use something other than wing jacks. If you have them available by all means use them. This is just my opinion however and I know there are others. Someone mentioned if something goes wrong and that is probably valid also. Any plane lifted regardless of the method needs to be secured. A wing jack is probably more secure than lifting the wheel with some form of pipe or avery rig. Make sure your plane is sufficiently choked. If your plane is nose heavy when picked up by the jack points I would sure double check my weight and balance. I am not saying either way because I don't know, but it would seem a little forward. Of course with a pilot in there it would be different. Were the tanks full? Tim _____ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dalman Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 9:21 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Legs wheel replacementGear Legs wheel replacementGear Legs wheel replacement I used a jack under the wing last night on my RV-8. We started to jack both wings but realized the cg was forward of the jacking points when the tail wheel started coming off the floor so we put some weight (carefully) on the horizontal stabilizer and jacked one side at a time. Worked fine, was very stable, and it allowed unencumbered access to the wheel. As someone else implied earlier, the wings support the entire weight of the plane when we're flying and can support several times the planes weight when flying. Besides, Dicky V. says that the tie down mount is fine for jacking the plane. If he says it, it's probably true. John


    Message 3


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    Time: 12:04:02 PM PST US
    From: "Steve Chambers" <smc2putt@cox.net>
    Subject: Tip-up gas struts
    FYI, The tip-up canopy struts supplied by Van's are Lift-O-Mat PN/752818. Van's price is approximately $23 per strut, which turns out to be a fairly competitive price. I shopped hard on the Internet and basically matched this price from various suppliers. Van isn't such a bad guy after all!! Steve Chambers N99ST RV6


    Message 4


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    Time: 12:56:44 PM PST US
    Subject: New product annoucement
    From: "=?utf-8?B?Qm9iIE5ld21hbg==?=" <rcnewman@mycingular.blackberry.net>
    Fellow RV builders, I'm pleased to annouce we have added two new models to the Safety-Trim product family. In addition to our standard features of time limited servo control, adjustable speed control, emergency reverse and simplified pilot/co-pilot wiring we now have models with that provide 2 user adjustable preset speeds. This feature allows you to control your trim response based on aircraft performance. This feature is especially useful in aircraft with a large performance envelope such as the RVs. For all the details please visit our website. www.tcwtech.com Thanks, Bob Newman. Rv-10 #40176 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T


    Message 5


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    Time: 05:18:49 PM PST US
    From: "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics@cencula.com>
    Subject: Aileron trailing edge skislope effect
    Greetings listers, I'm working on my ailerons (RV-7A) and seem to be getting a skislope effect at the trailing edge near the ribs. Some places are worse than others. You can see what I mean by checking the third photo here: http://www.our7a.com/20071015.html or the second and third photos here: http://www.our7a.com/20071024.html Any thoughts on what's causing this? It seems to like the trailing edge bend may not be in exactly the right location. I sent this very question to Van's and got the following response: "Mike, I looked at your aileron trailing edge photo and it is not perfect, but it's acceptable and within tolerance. It will not cause you any flight problems. Bruce Reynolds brucer@vansaircraft.com" Although it's nice to know that it's still safe, I really need a *solution*. Thanks, Mike Cencula


    Message 6


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    Time: 07:03:36 PM PST US
    From: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
    Subject: Aileron trailing edge skislope effect
    Mike, It couldn't hurt to order another rib for the worst ski slope end to see if that improves the fit. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael D. Cencula Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 7:15 PM Subject: RV-List: Aileron trailing edge skislope effect <matronics@cencula.com> Greetings listers, I'm working on my ailerons (RV-7A) and seem to be getting a skislope effect at the trailing edge near the ribs. Some places are worse than others. You can see what I mean by checking the third photo here: http://www.our7a.com/20071015.html or the second and third photos here: http://www.our7a.com/20071024.html Any thoughts on what's causing this? It seems to like the trailing edge bend may not be in exactly the right location. I sent this very question to Van's and got the following response: "Mike, I looked at your aileron trailing edge photo and it is not perfect, but it's acceptable and within tolerance. It will not cause you any flight problems. Bruce Reynolds brucer@vansaircraft.com" Although it's nice to know that it's still safe, I really need a *solution*. Thanks, Mike Cencula


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:21:56 PM PST US
    From: "Rob Prior" <rv7@b4.ca>
    Subject: Re: Aileron trailing edge skislope effect
    On 17:15 2007-10-24 "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics@cencula.com> wrote: > Although it's nice to know that it's still safe, I really need a > *solution*. Some alternatives: 1. Make a new rib for the worst location, drilling holes to match the skins. 2. Remove the clecoes from the worst rib, and drill new holes that match the skins in the spaces between each of the existing holes. When you get to painting, fill the unriveted holes and then paint over them. 3. (Van's suggestion) Drive the rivets as-is, and rig the plane to fly straight and true once you're done. Personally I wouldn't go looking for extra work, but if pushed i'd probably opt for option 1. -Rob




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