Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:31 AM - Re: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank (Doug Gray)
2. 09:02 AM - Re: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank (Jeff Point)
3. 09:17 AM - Re: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank (Scott)
4. 11:14 AM - Re:RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
5. 11:19 AM - Re: gear legs wheel replacement (pcowper@webtv.net (Pete Cowper))
6. 03:21 PM - Re: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank (Steve)
7. 05:16 PM - Re: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank (Kyle Boatright)
8. 05:34 PM - Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting (Kyle Boatright)
9. 06:14 PM - Prop Mounting-clocking (Paul Besing)
10. 06:20 PM - Re: Prop Mounting-clocking (linn Walters)
11. 06:27 PM - Re: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting (Russ & Marilyn)
12. 06:34 PM - Re: Prop Mounting-clocking (David Burton)
13. 07:04 PM - Re: Prop Mounting-clocking (Richard E. Tasker)
14. 07:04 PM - Re: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting (Dale Walter)
15. 07:10 PM - Re: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting (Larry Bowen)
16. 07:25 PM - Re: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting (Kyle Boatright)
17. 07:27 PM - Re: Prop Mounting-clocking (Michael D. Cencula)
18. 07:34 PM - Re: Prop Mounting-clocking (Paul Besing)
19. 07:37 PM - Re: Prop Mounting-clocking (Scott)
20. 07:46 PM - Re: Prop Mounting-clocking (Kyle Boatright)
21. 07:54 PM - Re: Prop Mounting-clocking (Scott)
22. 09:00 PM - Fw: 160 HP 0-320-H2AD (Flamini, Dennis, Fran)
23. 09:20 PM - Re: Prop Mounting-clocking (linn Walters)
24. 09:22 PM - Re: Fw: 160 HP 0-320-H2AD (linn Walters)
25. 09:42 PM - Re: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank (Steven DiNieri)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank |
On Sun, 2007-10-28 at 03:41 -0400, DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
> The bellcrank mounting rails, if you recall, are 1.5 inches apart and
> the
> bellcrank is centered between them.
Yes I remember this well and solved it at the time I built the wings.
The clearance was so small I feared that even with a modest wing loads
it may interfere and lock the ailerons!
I was told the popular solution is to go for the shorter bolt and thin
nut. Perhaps a castle nut with split-pin may be better.
My fix was to remake the spacers so the bellcrank is no longer centered
but offset sufficiently to allow the bolt to clear the support angle.
Doug Gray
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank |
If the grip length is a concern, try this: Use the correct length bolt,
with a thin washer under the nut. Put a combination of thick/ thin
washers under the bolt head (up to 3) that will give you just enough
thread showing on the nut. You should have plenty of clearance for the
bolt head, so raising it up a bit won't hurt.
Or, you could use a thin locknut.
Jeff Point
RV-6 flying
RV-8 building
Milwaukee
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank |
Would this problem apply to an RV-4 as well? I just picked up a
second-hand wing kit and I'm curious if I will have the same concerns at
that time when I get them built...
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Jeff Point wrote:
>
> If the grip length is a concern, try this: Use the correct length
> bolt, with a thin washer under the nut. Put a combination of thick/
> thin washers under the bolt head (up to 3) that will give you just
> enough thread showing on the nut. You should have plenty of clearance
> for the bolt head, so raising it up a bit won't hurt.
>
> Or, you could use a thin locknut.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 flying
> RV-8 building
> Milwaukee
>
>
>>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re:RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank |
Dean,
Greetings from your old stomping grounds in (currently) sunny Oregon... Wish
you'd have posted this yesterday when my wing ports were off, but here goes.
I don't recall that fuss with my bellcranks, but then again, memory ain't so
good, too much alum dust I guess...
If you;re worried about the 1/16" clearance, try flexing the bellcrank by
hand sideways and see if you can make it hang up. If everything is snugged up so
there is no slop, I can't see you having a problem. Hard to imagine flight
loads severe enough to deflect the B-crank that much, and if so, can't see it
getting stuck in that kind of position. If I go to hangar next couple days
I'll take one of my ports off and see what I did. I'd stick with whatever bolt
lets you see at least one thread past the nut and keeps the proper shank
length. I have some thin AN3 stop nuts if you need a couple. You can also use
high temp, smaller stop nuts in that situation. I've done that a couple times
when clearance or access was an issue...
HTH & YMMV...
Regards,
Jerry Cochran
In a message dated 10/28/2007 12:00:08 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list@matronics.com writes:
Time: 11:42:39 PM PST US
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank
All ye RV-6/6A builders:
Think waaaay back when you built your wings (actually when you installed the
aileron bellcranks and pushrods). RV-7/8/9 builders don't apply, you have a
different bellcrank set up. Anyway, I was installing this for the last time
tonight and ran into a problem. The bellcrank installed in the mount with
its quarter inch bolt (and washers/spacers) ok. But when I installed the
AN3-10A bolt in the hole in the where the pushrod (rod end) goes, (and
installed a thick washer and nylock nut), the amount of bolt sticking out of
the nut created interference with the bottom (angle aluminum) mounting rail
and the bellcrank couldn't move full travel.
The bellcrank mounting rails, if you recall, are 1.5 inches apart and the
bellcrank is centered between them. Van's old plans call for an AN3-10A
bolt, thick washer and stop nut but that's obviously wrong. I checked my
rail spacing just to be sure and yes I built them to the plans. So...I
switched the bolt to an AN3-7 and with the thick washer and stop nut there
is 2-3 threads sticking out of the stop nut. The bellcrank rotates freely
but looking at the clearance between the end of the bolt and the bottom rail
I would guess about 1/16 of an inch is all I have.
This makes me nervous, the bellcrank mounting rails are 1/8 inch thick and
that area is pretty stout but, the rod ends mount into the outer ends of the
bellcrank itself (two pieces of 1/16 plate spaced apart by thick AN3 bolt
washers in 4 places plus the center bearing mount acting as a spacer). If
there is much flexing in the outer ends of the bellcrank in flight then it
might be possible for the bolt end to come in contact with the mounting rail
and ruin my day (life).
I looked at going to an AN3-6A bolt but it doesn't look like there will be
ANY threads sticking out of the stop nut when it's tightend (if I'm lucky
and use a thin washer, I might get the threads to edge of the nylon in the
end of the stop nut). Also if I used the -6A bolt I'll be violating the
"grip length rules" (unthreaded bolt shank will not go all the way through
the parts I'm bolting). Anyone remember having this problem? Did you use the
-6A bolt or.... the -7A and live with the close clearances? How critical is
it to adhere to the "grip length" rules?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
If I'd quit running into crazy crap like this I'd be done now!!!
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: gear legs wheel replacement |
"I have been jacking my RV up for five years at the tiedown points and
never has the tailwheel left the ground."
Does your hanger face into a headwind?!!
Pete Cowper
RV-8 #81139 (working on fuselage)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank |
Make a new set of bellcrank spacers to provide clearance for the AN3-10A
bolt between the mounting angles.
Steve
RV-6A
built two sets of spacers myself........the first set per plans, and the
second set to provide bolt clearance...............doesn't everyone do
this? :-)
>
> All ye RV-6/6A builders:
>
> Think waaaay back when you built your wings (actually when you installed the
> aileron bellcranks and pushrods). RV-7/8/9 builders don't apply, you have a
> different bellcrank set up. Anyway, I was installing this for the last time
> tonight and ran into a problem. The bellcrank installed in the mount with
> its quarter inch bolt (and washers/spacers) ok. But when I installed the
> AN3-10A bolt in the hole in the where the pushrod (rod end) goes, (and
> installed a thick washer and nylock nut), the amount of bolt sticking out of
> the nut created interference with the bottom (angle aluminum) mounting rail
> and the bellcrank couldn't move full travel. ....................
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank |
For years, I thought this was unique to my plane...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve" <stevea@svpal.org>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank
>
> Make a new set of bellcrank spacers to provide clearance for the AN3-10A
> bolt between the mounting angles.
>
> Steve
> RV-6A
> built two sets of spacers myself........the first set per plans, and the
> second set to provide bolt clearance...............doesn't everyone do
> this? :-)
>
>
>> <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>>
>> All ye RV-6/6A builders:
>>
>> Think waaaay back when you built your wings (actually when you installed
>> the
>> aileron bellcranks and pushrods). RV-7/8/9 builders don't apply, you
>> have a
>> different bellcrank set up. Anyway, I was installing this for the last
>> time
>> tonight and ran into a problem. The bellcrank installed in the mount with
>> its quarter inch bolt (and washers/spacers) ok. But when I installed the
>> AN3-10A bolt in the hole in the where the pushrod (rod end) goes, (and
>> installed a thick washer and nylock nut), the amount of bolt sticking out
>> of
>> the nut created interference with the bottom (angle aluminum) mounting
>> rail
>> and the bellcrank couldn't move full travel. ....................
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting |
We went from Atlanta to College Station, TX this weekend to see my
wife's Aggies play (and lose to) Kansas..
Today, we made the return trip.
And about 30 miles from home the engine lost a little power (~100 rpm).
Some in-flight troubleshooting showed that the Electroair ignition that
I have on the right side had quit. I flipped the on/off switch several
times, reset the breaker, etc. and the ignition didn't come back to
life. That being the case, I left it off for the remainder of the flight
and made sure to stay high enough to glide to an airstrip if the other
ignition system (a magneto) decided to take the day off too.
And once we landed, I flipped it back on and voila', it was working
fine. Which was a good thing. Sorta...
Because troubleshooting an intermittent problem is a pain in the tuckus.
I plan to check all of the connections between the battery, the breaker,
the switch, and the ignition system. I'll check the ground connections
too. Beyond that, I'll call the folks who are now supporting the
ignition and see if they have any ideas.
Any other thoughts on how to troubleshoot this problem?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
N46KB
Message 9
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| Subject: | Prop Mounting-clocking |
Ok, silly question...my prop needs to be re mounted and I can't for the life of
me remember which position it looks like when stopped..when looking at it from
the cockpit, is the high blade on the left or right? i.e. the blade you can
see should be in the 10:00 or 2:00 position when viewed from the cockpit?
Thanks.
Paul Besing
__________________________________________________
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
Must be a secret society!
Linn
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting |
It sounds like the electronic ignition is getting hot and shutting down.
I have a friend with a 9A that had a similar problem. The problem was
the blast tubes for cooling the E-mag was not positioned correctly.
Russ Keith
Slow build 9A
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 8:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting
We went from Atlanta to College Station, TX this weekend to see my
wife's Aggies play (and lose to) Kansas..
Today, we made the return trip.
And about 30 miles from home the engine lost a little power (~100
rpm). Some in-flight troubleshooting showed that the Electroair
ignition that I have on the right side had quit. I flipped the on/off
switch several times, reset the breaker, etc. and the ignition didn't
come back to life. That being the case, I left it off for the remainder
of the flight and made sure to stay high enough to glide to an airstrip
if the other ignition system (a magneto) decided to take the day off
too.
And once we landed, I flipped it back on and voila', it was working
fine. Which was a good thing. Sorta...
Because troubleshooting an intermittent problem is a pain in the
tuckus.
I plan to check all of the connections between the battery, the
breaker, the switch, and the ignition system. I'll check the ground
connections too. Beyond that, I'll call the folks who are now
supporting the ignition and see if they have any ideas.
Any other thoughts on how to troubleshoot this problem?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
N46KB
Message 12
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| Subject: | Prop Mounting-clocking |
This message was very strange. I have a preview feature on my computer that
lets me see incoming messages superimposed over the screen I'm working on.
Paul's question was there on the preview screen but empty here. I don't get
it.
Dave
RV6
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Besing
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 6:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop Mounting-clocking
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
For what it's worth the same thing happened to me.
Dick
Do not archive
David Burton wrote:
>
> This message was very strange. I have a preview feature on my computer
> that lets me see incoming messages superimposed over the screen Im
> working on. Pauls question was there on the preview screen but empty
> here. I dont get it
>
> Dave
>
> RV6
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Paul Besing
> *Sent:* Sunday, October 28, 2007 6:14 PM
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV-List: Prop Mounting-clocking
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
Message 14
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| Subject: | Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting |
Is the control unit in the engine compartment or cockpit? Some have had
problems with wire fatigue right where they exit the mag timing housing. My
controller is mounted inside, above the rudder pedals and have monitored
temperature with digital sensor going to my Grand Rapids EIS and never had
temps above 130 F (and no blast tubes on it). I thought E-mag was a much
different animal vs Electroair?
Dale
RV6a 938 hrs
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russ & Marilyn
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 9:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting
It sounds like the electronic ignition is getting hot and shutting down. I
have a friend with a 9A that had a similar problem. The problem was the
blast tubes for cooling the E-mag was not positioned correctly.
Russ Keith
Slow build 9A
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle <mailto:kboatright1@comcast.net> Boatright
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 8:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting
We went from Atlanta to College Station, TX this weekend to see my wife's
Aggies play (and lose to) Kansas..
Today, we made the return trip.
And about 30 miles from home the engine lost a little power (~100 rpm).
Some in-flight troubleshooting showed that the Electroair ignition that I
have on the right side had quit. I flipped the on/off switch several times,
reset the breaker, etc. and the ignition didn't come back to life. That
being the case, I left it off for the remainder of the flight and made sure
to stay high enough to glide to an airstrip if the other ignition system (a
magneto) decided to take the day off too.
And once we landed, I flipped it back on and voila', it was working fine.
Which was a good thing. Sorta...
Because troubleshooting an intermittent problem is a pain in the tuckus.
I plan to check all of the connections between the battery, the breaker, the
switch, and the ignition system. I'll check the ground connections too.
Beyond that, I'll call the folks who are now supporting the ignition and see
if they have any ideas.
Any other thoughts on how to troubleshoot this problem?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
N46KB
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting |
Sounds similar to my electroair troubles:
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/2004/10/more_ignition_w_1.html
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/2005/03/electronic_igni.html
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/2005/04/electronic_igni_1.html
--
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
*From:* Kyle Boatright <kboatright1@comcast.net>
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Sunday, October 28, 2007 8:33 PM
> *Subject:* RV-List: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting
>
> We went from Atlanta to College Station, TX this weekend to see my
> wife's Aggies play (and lose to) Kansas..
>
> Today, we made the return trip.
>
> And about 30 miles from home the engine lost a little power (~100 rpm).
> Some in-flight troubleshooting showed that the Electroair ignition that I
> have on the right side had quit. I flipped the on/off switch several times,
> reset the breaker, etc. and the ignition didn't come back to life. That
> being the case, I left it off for the remainder of the flight and made sure
> to stay high enough to glide to an airstrip if the other ignition system (a
> magneto) decided to take the day off too.
>
> And once we landed, I flipped it back on and voila', it was working fine.
> Which was a good thing. Sorta...
>
> Because troubleshooting an intermittent problem is a pain in the tuckus.
>
> I plan to check all of the connections between the battery, the breaker,
> the switch, and the ignition system. I'll check the ground connections
> too. Beyond that, I'll call the folks who are now supporting the ignition
> and see if they have any ideas.
>
> Any other thoughts on how to troubleshoot this problem?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kyle Boatright
> N46KB
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting |
The coils (and control unit) are in the engine compartment. Today was
nice and cool (probably 32F at our cruising altitude), so I tend to
discount heat as an issue, since I probably have a couple of hundred
hours on this system in 80F+ ambient conditions. Beyond that, we had
been in a reduced power descent for about 5 minutes when the system quit
working, so things should have been cooling off at that time.
I'll take a look at the timing housing wires. Never heard of that
problem, but the number of these units in the field is relatively small,
so forums like this are an outstanding place to share information and
document a service history on 'em.
As far as I know, there is little or no commonality between the E-mag
and Electroair systems.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Walter
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 10:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting
Is the control unit in the engine compartment or cockpit? Some have
had problems with wire fatigue right where they exit the mag timing
housing. My controller is mounted inside, above the rudder pedals and
have monitored temperature with digital sensor going to my Grand Rapids
EIS and never had temps above 130 F (and no blast tubes on it). I
thought E-mag was a much different animal vs Electroair?
Dale
RV6a 938 hrs
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russ & Marilyn
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 9:27 PM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting
It sounds like the electronic ignition is getting hot and shutting
down. I have a friend with a 9A that had a similar problem. The problem
was the blast tubes for cooling the E-mag was not positioned correctly.
Russ Keith
Slow build 9A
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 8:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting
We went from Atlanta to College Station, TX this weekend to see my
wife's Aggies play (and lose to) Kansas..
Today, we made the return trip.
And about 30 miles from home the engine lost a little power (~100
rpm). Some in-flight troubleshooting showed that the Electroair
ignition that I have on the right side had quit. I flipped the on/off
switch several times, reset the breaker, etc. and the ignition didn't
come back to life. That being the case, I left it off for the remainder
of the flight and made sure to stay high enough to glide to an airstrip
if the other ignition system (a magneto) decided to take the day off
too.
And once we landed, I flipped it back on and voila', it was working
fine. Which was a good thing. Sorta...
Because troubleshooting an intermittent problem is a pain in the
tuckus.
I plan to check all of the connections between the battery, the
breaker, the switch, and the ignition system. I'll check the ground
connections too. Beyond that, I'll call the folks who are now
supporting the ignition and see if they have any ideas.
Any other thoughts on how to troubleshoot this problem?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
N46KB
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.m
atronics.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
The message didn't show up in Thunderbird, but in Kontact it does. Anyway,
here's his question:
On Sunday October 28 2007 09:13:49 pm Paul Besing wrote:
> Ok, silly question...my prop needs to be re mounted and I can't for the
> life of me remember which position it looks like when stopped..when looking
> at it from the cockpit, is the high blade on the left or right? i.e. the
> blade you can see should be in the 10:00 or 2:00 position when viewed from
> the cockpit?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Paul Besing
>
>
> __________________________________________________
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
Ok..try it again..here goes.
Ok, silly question...my prop needs to be re mounted and I can't for the
life of me remember which position it looks like when stopped..when
looking at it from the cockpit, is the high blade on the left or
right? i.e. the blade you can see should be in the 10:00 or 2:00
position when viewed from the cockpit?
Thanks.
Paul Besing
----- Original Message ----
From: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 6:13:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop Mounting-clocking
__________________________________________________
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
Mine is on the right (2 O'Clock) as I look out the windshield. An easy
way is to stand in front of the plane like you are going to hand prop.
Which feels the best?
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Michael D. Cencula wrote:
>
>The message didn't show up in Thunderbird, but in Kontact it does. Anyway,
>here's his question:
>
>On Sunday October 28 2007 09:13:49 pm Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
>>Ok, silly question...my prop needs to be re mounted and I can't for the
>>life of me remember which position it looks like when stopped..when looking
>>at it from the cockpit, is the high blade on the left or right? i.e. the
>>blade you can see should be in the 10:00 or 2:00 position when viewed from
>>the cockpit?
>>
>>Thanks.
>>
>>Paul Besing
>>
>>
>>
>>__________________________________________________
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
Mine (and most I see) stop at the 2:00 position as seen from the
cockpit. This is convenient for hand propping if you're so inclined.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 10:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Mounting-clocking
Ok..try it again..here goes.
Ok, silly question...my prop needs to be re mounted and I can't for
the life of me remember which position it looks like when stopped..when
looking at it from the cockpit, is the high blade on the left or right?
i.e. the blade you can see should be in the 10:00 or 2:00 position when
viewed from the cockpit?
Thanks.
Paul Besing
----- Original Message ----
From: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 6:13:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop Mounting-clocking
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
How else does one start an airplane??? ;)
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Kyle Boatright wrote:
> This is convenient for hand propping if you're so inclined.
>
> KB
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Fw: 160 HP 0-320-H2AD |
i bought a wrecked Acro II last weekend in central Michagan.
The plane lost power and landed hard on an upslope.
The prop hit the ground in a horiz. position, i looked at the engine
unassembled
and think it would be a great buy for someone.
It was overhauled by Wag Aero and had 370 hrs SMOH when it crashed in
Aug 2005.
No carb or mag.
The owner does not want to ship it so it would have to be picked up, i
could help ship it
but i am 200 miles away myself.
i was thinking the Michigan guys might want to take a look at it.
He wants $2,500 for it.
i attached a photo of the plane wreck.
Dennis in Chicago
PS, i was all ready to go back and pick it up but my Wife noted that
i already have 2 1/2 biplanes in the garage and an engine in the
basement.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
FWIW, 10:00 when viewed from the cockpit. If you ever want to hand prop
it, that's the best position .... which is 2:00 when you're facing the
prop. It doesn't matter what the 'stopping' position is .... if you're
propping it, you want the rising blade to pass through 2:00 when the
impulse fires at TDC. With the mags off (and a set of plugs removed is
better) you can pull the prop through to see what position it's in when
the impulse clicks.
Linn
Paul Besing wrote:
> Ok..try it again..here goes.
>
>
> Ok, silly question...my prop needs to be re mounted and I can't for
> the life of me remember which position it looks like when
> stopped..when looking at it from the cockpit, is the high blade on the
> left or right? i.e. the blade you can see should be in the 10:00 or
> 2:00 position when viewed from the cockpit?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Paul Besing
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 6:13:49 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Prop Mounting-clocking
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: 160 HP 0-320-H2AD |
Flamini, Dennis, Fran wrote:
> i bought a wrecked Acro II last weekend in central Michagan.
From the picture you'd have been better off buying the engine!!! What
parts were useable??
Linn
do not archive
Message 25
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| Subject: | RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank |
Dean,
I think the general consensus was to offset the bell crank a bit to create a
more comfortable clearance. If memory serves, I think I ground down one
spacer and added thin washers to the opposite side rather than make new
spacers from scratch.
Steve dinieri
Iflyrv10.com
capsteve@adelphia.net
All ye RV-6/6A builders:
Think waaaay back when you built your wings (actually when you installed the
aileron bellcranks and pushrods). RV-7/8/9 builders don't apply, you have a
different bellcrank set up. Anyway, I was installing this for the last time
tonight and ran into a problem. The bellcrank installed in the mount with
its quarter inch bolt (and washers/spacers) ok. But when I installed the
AN3-10A bolt in the hole in the where the pushrod (rod end) goes, (and
installed a thick washer and nylock nut), the amount of bolt sticking out of
the nut created interference with the bottom (angle aluminum) mounting rail
and the bellcrank couldn't move full travel.
The bellcrank mounting rails, if you recall, are 1.5 inches apart and the
bellcrank is centered between them. Van's old plans call for an AN3-10A
bolt, thick washer and stop nut but that's obviously wrong. I checked my
rail spacing just to be sure and yes I built them to the plans. So...I
switched the bolt to an AN3-7 and with the thick washer and stop nut there
is 2-3 threads sticking out of the stop nut. The bellcrank rotates freely
but looking at the clearance between the end of the bolt and the bottom rail
I would guess about 1/16 of an inch is all I have.
This makes me nervous, the bellcrank mounting rails are 1/8 inch thick and
that area is pretty stout but, the rod ends mount into the outer ends of the
bellcrank itself (two pieces of 1/16 plate spaced apart by thick AN3 bolt
washers in 4 places plus the center bearing mount acting as a spacer). If
there is much flexing in the outer ends of the bellcrank in flight then it
might be possible for the bolt end to come in contact with the mounting rail
and ruin my day (life).
I looked at going to an AN3-6A bolt but it doesn't look like there will be
ANY threads sticking out of the stop nut when it's tightend (if I'm lucky
and use a thin washer, I might get the threads to edge of the nylon in the
end of the stop nut). Also if I used the -6A bolt I'll be violating the
"grip length rules" (unthreaded bolt shank will not go all the way through
the parts I'm bolting). Anyone remember having this problem? Did you use the
-6A bolt or.... the -7A and live with the close clearances? How critical is
it to adhere to the "grip length" rules?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
If I'd quit running into crazy crap like this I'd be done now!!!
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