Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:50 AM - Needed: Artificial Horizon (Chuck Weyant)
2. 03:50 AM - Las Vegas Rvers (Al Grajek)
3. 12:06 PM - Re: Question for A (Charles Heathco)
4. 09:38 PM - Re: Question for A&P Types (or anyone) (Tim Bryan)
5. 09:43 PM - Vacuum Pump Repair (ferrerg@comcast.net)
6. 09:45 PM - Propeller for sale (Steve & Denise)
7. 09:47 PM - Falcon Altimeter (Richard Dudley)
8. 09:54 PM - Need some help in Denver (Mike Robertson)
9. 10:03 PM - New Van's service bulletin (SB 07-11-09) applicable to all two place, tricycle gear RVs. (Tim Lewis)
10. 10:17 PM - Re: Needed: Artificial Horizon (mike humphrey)
11. 10:55 PM - Re: Vacuum Pump Repair (Vanremog@aol.com)
12. 11:13 PM - Does anyone trim the trailing edge of the main gear leg fairings? (Joe & Jan Connell)
13. 11:56 PM - Re: RV-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 11/07/07 (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Needed: Artificial Horizon |
Just informed by Rudy's Aircraft Instruments that my Aeriatalia
Artifical Horizon
(part# 36100 9, Serial#03374) cannot be tilted 7 degrees for my RV10
panel. Anyone out there have a good vac artifical horz for sale or
trade preferably with the 7 degree tilt already done? I bought this one
from a friend who had it overhauled and Rudy went thru it too. I'll
take any reasonable offer...or trade.
Chuck Weyant
Santa Maria, CA
805 878-1922
Message 2
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I am going to be in LAS next week on business. I would love to hook up with
a local rver, maybe for a ride, or just to look at airplanes, whatever.
Al Grajek
RV8
LEX
859-361-9460
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Question for A |
I have digest only so probly have enuf info but wanted to add that I did
my comp check cold this year (july) and it was only one to two pts lower
than last yrs hot check, Charlie Heathco
Message 4
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| Subject: | Question for A&P Types (or anyone) |
Thanks to everyone who replied on this subject. I was able to get the oil
warm enough when I did a run-up and a high speed taxi. The oil is drained
and the compression checked. They were great numbers 78,78,80,79 all over
80 and while warm. I will be completing the condition inspection today
hopefully and off to legal flying again.
Yes Darrell I did build it but there were replies to Greg about a non
builder question.
Thanks all
Tim
Do Not Archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darrell Reiley
> Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 9:57 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Question for A&P Types (or anyone)
>
>
> If I'm not mistaken, Tim is a builder...?
>
> Darrell
>
>
> --- Greg Williams <mr.gsun+rv-list@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Along a similar line, what does a non-builder have
> > to do to get a
> > certificate to do his own condition inspection?
> >
> > On Nov 8, 2007 3:07 PM, Bruce Gray
> > <Bruce@glasair.org> wrote:
> >
> > > Sure, you just can't fly it until you finish and
> > sign off the condition
> > > inspection.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > > www.Glasair.org <http://www.glasair.org/>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > *From:* owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:
> > > owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> > *Tim Bryan
> > > *Sent:* Thursday, November 08, 2007 3:50 PM
> > > *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> > > *Subject:* RV-List: Question for A&P Types (or
> > anyone)
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I am planning to start my first condition
> > inspection on my -6 today. It was due by the end of
> > the month in October, but travel got in my way of
> > completing it. I would like to get the oil warmed
> > up good before draining it and also doing the
> > compression check. It seems I didn't really get it
> > warmed up good last time I tried to just take it out
> > and run it up. Am I allowed to do a solo flight to
> > warm the oil up as a test flight even though it is
> > not current?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Tim**
> > >
> > > *
> > >
> > >
> >
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chre
> f="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-
> List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> > >
> >
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> > > *
> > >
> > > *
> > >
> > >
> > > *
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Vacuum Pump Repair |
I was ready to replace the failed vacuum pump (210 hours) in my RV6 this week.
But my friend, Rob Kermanj (RV10 and RV6), suggested that I check the operation
of the shear coupling in the pump.
I found out that the shear coupling had sheared and replaced it for about $22 (I
was later told that Aircraft Spruce sells it for $14).
It's very easy to replace this part in the pump. The fun part is removing and installing
the pump.
The shear coupling is made from some type of plastic that deteriorates with high
temperature and time.
I plan to replace this part every couple of years or 200 hours as a preventive
measure in the future.
--
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX
South Florida
email: ferrerg@comcast.net
cell: 561 758 8894
<html><body>
<DIV>I was ready to replace the failed vacuum pump (210 hours) in my RV6 this week. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>But my friend, Rob Kermanj (RV10 and RV6), suggested that I check the
operation of the shear coupling in the pump. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I found out that the shear coupling had sheared and replaced it for about
$22 (I was later told that Aircraft Spruce sells it for $14).</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>It's very easy to replace this part in the pump. The fun part is removing
and installing the pump.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The shear coupling is made from some type of plastic that deteriorates with
high temperature and time.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I plan to replace this part every couple of years or 200 hours as a preventive
measure in the future.</DIV>
<DIV class=signature>--<BR>Gabe A Ferrer </DIV>
<DIV class=signature>RV6 N2GX</DIV>
<DIV class=signature>South Florida<BR>email: ferrerg@comcast.net <BR>cell: 561
758 8894</DIV>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Propeller for sale |
MT Prop model MTV-15B/183-50. 136.5 hours flight time since new. No
damage ever. Log books included.
Manufactured June 2006.
Removed from RV7A IO-360 for flight testing other props.
Email for pics.
$8000 OBO
Steve
RV7A
Message 7
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| Subject: | Falcon Altimeter |
Listers,
FWIW - I have a Falcon altimeter that I installed in my RV-6A about four
years ago. The plane has been flying since February 2005 and has about
130 hours. The altimeter has been certified twice to 20,000 feet per FAR
43 App. E at an FAA repair station with no problems, the latest check in
February this year. I even posted and e-mail on the RV-list indicating
my delight in this reasonably priced, Chinese made instrument being so
precise and reliable.
A week ago in checking the cockpit in preparation for a flight, about
two weeks since my last flight, I found the altimeter reading about 4000
feet. In in the process of trouble shooting, I disconnected the static
line from the altimeter and found that it was still reading 4000 feet.
The problem was obviously internal in the altimeter. I removed it from
the instrument panel and took it home. After a week on my desk, the
indicated altitude has increased to about 9000 feet and is still slowly
climbing.
Consulting with the Wultrad folks I found that the instrument could be
overhauled for $150. Since the current price is about $250 this was not
attractive. And, since my confidence in the reliability of the
instrument had been destroyed, I "bit the bullet" and purchased a
United, TSOd altimeter at about three times the price of the Falcon. If
you, have one of these you may want to keep a close eye on the field
altitude at the correct altimeter setting. I noticed a small increase in
the indicated field altitude a few weeks before the very large increase
I mentioned.
Best regards,
Richard Dudley
Message 8
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| Subject: | Need some help in Denver |
I am thinking about bidding on a thickness planer in the Denver area. The
only problem is that it is local pickup only. Is there anyone in the Denve
r area that would be willing to run by this pawn shop, if I win, pick this
up and take it to yellow freight to ship it. I would definitely be willing
to pay whoever something for the inconvenience.
Mike Robertson
_________________________________________________________________
Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You!
http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us
Message 9
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| Subject: | New Van's service bulletin (SB 07-11-09) applicable to all two |
place, tricycle gear RVs.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/notices.htm
Requires replacement or modification of nose gear components on
two-lace, tricycle gear RVs with finish kits shipped prior to Feb 2005.
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 900 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
*
*
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Needed: Artificial Horizon |
Aren't 7 degree tilt instruments for taildraggers? Unless you
redesigned the 10's panel.
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Weyant
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 3:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Needed: Artificial Horizon
Just informed by Rudy's Aircraft Instruments that my Aeriatalia
Artifical Horizon
(part# 36100 9, Serial#03374) cannot be tilted 7 degrees for my RV10
panel. Anyone out there have a good vac artifical horz for sale or
trade preferably with the 7 degree tilt already done? I bought this one
from a friend who had it overhauled and Rudy went thru it too. I'll
take any reasonable offer...or trade.
Chuck Weyant
Santa Maria, CA
805 878-1922
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Pump Repair |
In a message dated 11/10/2007 9:44:24 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
ferrerg@comcast.net writes:
I was ready to replace the failed vacuum pump (210 hours) in my RV6 this
week.
But my friend, Rob Kermanj (RV10 and RV6), suggested that I check the
operation of the shear coupling in the pump.
I found out that the shear coupling had sheared and replaced it for about
$22 (I was later told that Aircraft Spruce sells it for $14).
It's very easy to replace this part in the pump. The fun part is removing
and installing the pump.
The shear coupling is made from some type of plastic that deteriorates with
high temperature and time.
I plan to replace this part every couple of years or 200 hours as a
preventive measure in the future.
================================================
Just a stupid question, but... maybe it sheared for a reason? I would
check to see if the vanes are in good condition and not partially fragged.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 870hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
Message 12
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| Subject: | Does anyone trim the trailing edge of the main gear leg fairings? |
Gentlemen,
I've been searching the archives to no avail. The instructions for the
RV-9A say the following:
1. "Trace the root end, trailing edge, and tip end trim lines onto the
fairing."
2. "Trim the root and tip ends of the fairing but do not trim the
trailing edge."
I don't see any indication that I will ever trim the trailing edge.
There is a
comment about using a long stick and sandpaper to remove excess "tail"
on the fairing and even the sides of the trailing edge.
Will any trailing edge material need to be removed before fitting the
hinges?
Will any trailing edge material need to be removed to fit the ready-made
intersection fairings?
Many thanks.
Joe Connell
RV-9A N95JJ
Message 13
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| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 11/07/07 |
Functional checkout of my electrical system has gone well so far with no
smoked wiring or equipment. I bought an equivalent of an Odyssey 680 a
couple years ago and trickle charged it occasionally hoping it would at
least be good enough to do electrical checkout, first engine start and maybe
a few times around the pattern. But it appears that is not the case.
Voltmeter says there is 12.5 volts at the terminals but it can't produce
enough amps to fire the battery contactor or even make some sparks when
shorted, pretty pathetic. I substituted a Panasonic 4.5 amp hour sealed lead
acid battery that I bought second hand about 6 years ago. It's got enough
oomph for the checkout but I'll need a new 680 for 1st engine start.
I did a test on my magneto P-lead (one mag on left side, electronic on right
side)with an ohm meter. Thinking that when the key switch is in the off
position, the resistance across the p-lead should measure close to dead
short and, it does. By the same logic, I thought that when the mag was
ungrounded the resistance across the p-leads (I used a shielded wire with
the shield grounded at the magneto through the key switch, no local
grounding). But when I measured across the p-leads at the magneto the
resistance only went from 0.2 ohms to 0.4 ohms when I turned the key. Not
an appreciable increase in resistance but it was consistent (happens every
time) and measurable. I thought maybe I had a faulty key switch but not so,
I removed one p-lead from the mag and made the same measurement and the
resistance with the key in that mag's position read infinite. I suspect
that there is some thing about magnetos I don't know and that this is not a
problem but would like to be sure. Anybody ever done this test? Did you get
the same results?
Also checked out the VM-1000 and it seems to work fine except for dimming.
I used one of the B&C dimmers connected to the VM-1000 dimming input but I
don't seem to get any dimming action (backlight works ok). Anyone else
experience this? Have I missed something in the VM manual and it doesn't use
an external dimming input? Any thoughts? Thanks.
Dean
RV-6A N197DM
closer to 1st flight.
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