Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:33 AM - Re: Flap motor problems (Mike Barnard)
2. 10:19 AM - Re: Flap motor problems (Dale Walter)
3. 08:47 PM - Re: How to buck the aftmost rivets of the inboard flap ribs? (Michael D. Cencula)
Message 1
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Subject: | Flap motor problems |
Hi Dale,
Many thanks for your comments. The motor itself seems fine - do you have
experience of disassembling the actuator gears? Is the aluminum tube
threaded into the cast housing?
Mike
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Walter
Sent: 22 November 2007 02:30
Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap motor problems
Sounds like the bearing spacers/washers are inadequate on one end in the
motor. Or on the actuator gear. If the motor does not produce bad noise when
removed and operated with pressure applied alternatively to each end or
direction of motor shaft then the problem could be in the mounting of the
actuator gears or thrust washers/spacers. Amazing how those noises can hide.
Dale
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Barnard
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 4:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: Flap motor problems
All,
The flap motor on my recently completed RV6A stopped working at ~30hrs.
Motor has a 1999 mfg date. First an intermittent fault, then froze with
flaps up Removed the motor cap to find the brushes were caked with grease;
looking at other posts it seems this isn't a new problem. Cleaned, refitted
and checked operation, all fine. Reinstalled into the aircraft and while
the flaps deploy quietly with approx 0.4A load, the motor assy is making a
loud rasping noise when they retract and the current is approx 1A. Removed
the motor for a second time, fully stripped and removed it from the gearbox.
Perfectly clean and brand new appearance, nothing untoward. Reassembled
motor, it's silent when bench-run out of gearbox, and actuation rod can be
pushed in and out, spinning the drive pinion without a problem. Refitted
the motor to the gearbox and had an assistant put a load on the actuator as
it runs out. Rasping noise is back. Silent in the other direction on load.
Hmm. At $320 plus shipping and taxes it's an expensive 'just change it'.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Mike Barnard
G-RVCE, England
20/11/2007 17:44
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17:44
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Message 2
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Subject: | Flap motor problems |
Hi, Sorry, I don't know. Never took that one apart. Do you have an email
address for Vans, I would ask them for info on problem, but sometimes you
get help and sometimes you don't.
Good luck,
Dale
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Barnard
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 3:31 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap motor problems
Hi Dale,
Many thanks for your comments. The motor itself seems fine - do you have
experience of disassembling the actuator gears? Is the aluminum tube
threaded into the cast housing?
Mike
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Walter
Sent: 22 November 2007 02:30
Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap motor problems
Sounds like the bearing spacers/washers are inadequate on one end in the
motor. Or on the actuator gear. If the motor does not produce bad noise when
removed and operated with pressure applied alternatively to each end or
direction of motor shaft then the problem could be in the mounting of the
actuator gears or thrust washers/spacers. Amazing how those noises can hide.
Dale
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Barnard
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 4:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: Flap motor problems
All,
The flap motor on my recently completed RV6A stopped working at ~30hrs.
Motor has a 1999 mfg date. First an intermittent fault, then froze with
flaps up Removed the motor cap to find the brushes were caked with grease;
looking at other posts it seems this isn't a new problem. Cleaned, refitted
and checked operation, all fine. Reinstalled into the aircraft and while
the flaps deploy quietly with approx 0.4A load, the motor assy is making a
loud rasping noise when they retract and the current is approx 1A. Removed
the motor for a second time, fully stripped and removed it from the gearbox.
Perfectly clean and brand new appearance, nothing untoward. Reassembled
motor, it's silent when bench-run out of gearbox, and actuation rod can be
pushed in and out, spinning the drive pinion without a problem. Refitted
the motor to the gearbox and had an assistant put a load on the actuator as
it runs out. Rasping noise is back. Silent in the other direction on load.
Hmm. At $320 plus shipping and taxes it's an expensive 'just change it'.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Mike Barnard
G-RVCE, England
20/11/2007 17:44
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
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AVG Free Date: 20/11/2007 17:44
20/11/2007 17:44
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: How to buck the aftmost rivets of the inboard flap ribs? |
Thanks everyone for the suggestions.
I tried a chisel, but I only had a small one without much mass, so that
didn't work. Since I didn't have a splitting wedge to use, I went into
work and used one of the milling machines in the machine shop to
essentially make a wedge. It worked great as you can see here:
http://www.our7a.com/20071123.html
Thanks again!
Mike
Terry Mortimore wrote:
>
>
> Hi Mike:
>
> I ground and polished the jaws on a set of Vice Grip pliers and made a
> small rivet squeezer. Had to grind the outside of the jaws quite a bit
> as well to fit into the space. This tool came in handy in a number of
> places.
>
>
> Not sure where I picked up on this idea, may have been the list in
> years gone by.
>
>
>
> Tailwinds, Terry.
>
>
>> Howdy listers!
>>
>> Anyone out there come up with a good way of bucking the aftmost
>> rivets of the inboard flap ribs. There's hardly any room to get a
>> bucking bar in there.
>>
>> See: http://www.our7a.com/images/20071121-05-tn.jpg
>>
>> As a last resort I can always use MK319BS rivets, but I'm hoping to
>> use solid rivets.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mike Cencula
>>
>
>
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