Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:07 AM - Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published Dec 1! (Matt Dralle)
1. 06:26 AM - New EIS-4000P, from Grand Rapids Technology, For Sale (Todd Wenzel, MCSD)
2. 09:46 AM - Re: Removing Ethanol from you car-gas (Bruce Anthony)
3. 02:23 PM - Re: Re: Removing Ethanol from you car-gas (Tracy Crook)
4. 04:41 PM - Wheel Pans Fairings (Bert Murillo)
5. 05:07 PM - New AD from Van's (bert murillo)
6. 08:15 PM - Wheel Pans Fairings (Ralph Hoover)
7. 08:24 PM - Re: Wheel Pans Fairings (Konrad L. Werner)
8. 08:25 PM - Re: Wheel Pans Fairings (Bobby Hester)
9. 08:34 PM - New AD from Van's (Ralph Hoover)
10. 08:36 PM - Re: Wheel Pans Fairings (Dale Ensing)
11. 09:07 PM - Re: Removing Ethanol from your car-gas? (Kelly McMullen)
Message 0
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| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published Dec |
1!
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! On December 1st I post
a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their
appreciation for the Lists.
As a number of people have pointed out in their Contribution comments, these Lists
seems at least as valuable of a building/flying/recreating tool as a typical
your magazine subscription! And how interactive is a magazine, after all?
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
USA
(Please include your email address on the check!)
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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| Subject: | New EIS-4000P, from Grand Rapids Technology, For Sale |
I have a NEW EIS-4000P with a bunch of add-ons, from Grand Rapids Technology
( <http://hometown.aol.com/enginfosys/> http://hometown.aol.com/enginfosys/
). They have a very nice "Horizon EFIS" that uses the EIS-4000 for the
sensor "brain", of course the EIS-4000 is great as a stand-alone engine
monitor which is how I was going to use it. I have a complete EIS-4000P,
plus these add-on's:
1) Fuel Pressure
2) OAT
3) Manifold Pressure
4) Altimeter
5) Airspeed
6) Fuel Flow (sensor included)
The total for this was $1,869 you can check their pricing here:
<http://hometown.aol.com/enginfosys/pricing.htm>
http://hometown.aol.com/enginfosys/pricing.htm. Completely new still in
boxes, all probes are included. The first $1,200 takes it, including free
shipping!! Treat yourself and your RV to an early Christmas!
do not archive
Todd Wenzel
todd.wenzel@wenzel-software.com
414-218-6784
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: Removing Ethanol from you car-gas |
Well, here's why it's not a good idea to fiddle with this. First,
Ethanol is easily blended in gasoline from one to 99 % and blending
ethanol straight from the plant is cut with 5% natural gasoline so it's
not drinkable - taxes, you know. It's not complicated - we do it in our
tanker trucks at the gasoline terminal - and it doesn't require exotic
chemicals or methods. The ethanol/gasoline mixture is very stable
unless water is added to the mix. If water shows up, ethanol in the
blend will initially absorb the water (which might be a good thing in a
fuel tank as it prevents immediate engine misfire or stalling from the
water that would immediately form a separate phase in a tank of straight
gasoline). As more water is added a separate phase of water, ethanol,
and gasoline will form in a concentration that can only be predicted
from a trinary phase diagram. This separation does not require low
temperatures or lots of water, although both of these characteristics
have an impact on the amount and how soon the phase will form. This
separated phase will not burn properly in internal combustion engines.
Keep water away from ethanol blended gasoline including keeping your
tanks either full or completely empty if your plane sits around all
winter.
The separated ethanol/water/gasoline phase has the federal
characteristics of a hazardous waste, the disposal of which is regulated
by law and is quite expensive. The cost of disposal alone would render
any attempt to separate out the ethanol as not cost effective.
My NIOSH pocket guide tells me that at standard conditions, ethanol has
a boiling point of 173 degrees F and gasoline's B.P. is 102 degrees F
(gasoline is a mixture so the lighter components will boil off first).
Ethanol also has a lower vapor pressure than the lighter gasoline
components. Consequently, ethanol itself is less likely than gasoline
to cause vapor lock issues. Oftentimes, chemical mixtures behave
differently than pure components, but I haven't noticed any problems
with vapor lock in tuned cars in hot Minnesota summers.
Ethanol is more corrosive to aluminum than gasoline, but in a 10 percent
ethanol blend this is likely not significant. We've been selling E-85
(65% to 85% ethanol in gasoline) for nearly 10 years now and our
original dispensers, which have some aluminum components, still seem to
be OK. Time will tell.
As a previous poster wrote, ethanol is added to gasoline to provide more
oxygen to the combustion process in an engine and thus lower emissions.
While E-85 has an octane rating of up to 110, the octane improvement
from 10% ethanol in regular gasoline is only about 3 points.
Although it might not be best suited for aviation purposes (then again
it might be fine), in my opinion a 10% ethanol in gasoline blend has an
unjustified bad rap in some quarters that is not justified by the
experience in automobiles. Time, experience, and the engine
manufacturers will have the final say in airplanes.
To those amateurs who would try distilling pure ethanol from your phase
separation, have your survivors tell us how that worked out.
Bruce Anthony
Chemical Engineer
RV-9 Builder
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Removing Ethanol from you car-gas |
Thanks for "separating the wheat from the chaff" Bruce. Amazing the amount
of it (chaff) that comes across the internet.
Tracy Crook (burned a bit of the 10% stuff in my Rotary powered RV-4 - no
ill effects)
On Nov 26, 2007 12:34 PM, Bruce Anthony <bruce.anthony@holidaycompanies.com>
wrote:
> bruce.anthony@holidaycompanies.com>
>
> Well, here's why it's not a good idea to fiddle with this. First,
> Ethanol is easily blended in gasoline from one to 99 % and blending
> ethanol straight from the plant is cut with 5% natural gasoline so it's
> not drinkable - taxes, you know. It's not complicated - we do it in our
> tanker trucks at the gasoline terminal - and it doesn't require exotic
> chemicals or methods. The ethanol/gasoline mixture is very stable
> unless water is added to the mix. If water shows up, ethanol in the
> blend will initially absorb the water (which might be a good thing in a
> fuel tank as it prevents immediate engine misfire or stalling from the
> water that would immediately form a separate phase in a tank of straight
> gasoline). As more water is added a separate phase of water, ethanol,
> and gasoline will form in a concentration that can only be predicted
> from a trinary phase diagram. This separation does not require low
> temperatures or lots of water, although both of these characteristics
> have an impact on the amount and how soon the phase will form. This
> separated phase will not burn properly in internal combustion engines.
> Keep water away from ethanol blended gasoline including keeping your
> tanks either full or completely empty if your plane sits around all
> winter.
>
> The separated ethanol/water/gasoline phase has the federal
> characteristics of a hazardous waste, the disposal of which is regulated
> by law and is quite expensive. The cost of disposal alone would render
> any attempt to separate out the ethanol as not cost effective.
>
> My NIOSH pocket guide tells me that at standard conditions, ethanol has
> a boiling point of 173 degrees F and gasoline's B.P. is 102 degrees F
> (gasoline is a mixture so the lighter components will boil off first).
> Ethanol also has a lower vapor pressure than the lighter gasoline
> components. Consequently, ethanol itself is less likely than gasoline
> to cause vapor lock issues. Oftentimes, chemical mixtures behave
> differently than pure components, but I haven't noticed any problems
> with vapor lock in tuned cars in hot Minnesota summers.
>
> Ethanol is more corrosive to aluminum than gasoline, but in a 10 percent
> ethanol blend this is likely not significant. We've been selling E-85
> (65% to 85% ethanol in gasoline) for nearly 10 years now and our
> original dispensers, which have some aluminum components, still seem to
> be OK. Time will tell.
>
> As a previous poster wrote, ethanol is added to gasoline to provide more
> oxygen to the combustion process in an engine and thus lower emissions.
> While E-85 has an octane rating of up to 110, the octane improvement
> from 10% ethanol in regular gasoline is only about 3 points.
>
> Although it might not be best suited for aviation purposes (then again
> it might be fine), in my opinion a 10% ethanol in gasoline blend has an
> unjustified bad rap in some quarters that is not justified by the
> experience in automobiles. Time, experience, and the engine
> manufacturers will have the final say in airplanes.
>
> To those amateurs who would try distilling pure ethanol from your phase
> separation, have your survivors tell us how that worked out.
>
> Bruce Anthony
> Chemical Engineer
> RV-9 Builder
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Wheel Pans Fairings |
Hi:
Can some tell me, where I can buy the Fairings for the, Wheel pans,
and the gear legs-fuselage fairings, for the RV6A?
Name tel; number etc...
I heard there is one builder that is making these for the owners.. and that
are better fit, than the ones from Van's..
Thanks for the information
Bert rv6a
Do not Archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | New AD from Van's |
Hi:
I got the information that on the rv6"s one must change the
Fork on front wheel and some modification on the gear leg.
Question, how much is this going to cost? Does Van's
give some credit for old fork. or is exchange?
Thanks,
Bert
rv6a
do not archive
Be a better pen pal.
Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how. http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/
Message 6
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| Subject: | Wheel Pans Fairings |
Bert,
Here you go. I have the main gear leg fairings and they look good.
www.*fairings*-etc.com
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc.
bob@fairings-etc.com
PO Box 5488
Goodyear, AZ 85338
623/ 536-0951 (business)
623/ 293-9795 (cell)
--
Ralph C. Hoover
RV7A
hooverra at verizon dot net
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pans Fairings |
Try www.fairings-etc.com
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Bert Murillo
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 5:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wheel Pans Fairings
Hi:
Can some tell me, where I can buy the Fairings for the, Wheel pans,
and the gear legs-fuselage fairings, for the RV6A?
Name tel; number etc...
I heard there is one builder that is making these for the owners..
and that
are better fit, than the ones from Van's..
Thanks for the information
Bert rv6a
Do not Archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pans Fairings |
http://www.fairings-etc.com/
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Bert Murillo wrote:
>
> Hi:
>
> Can some tell me, where I can buy the Fairings for the, Wheel pans,
> and the gear legs-fuselage fairings, for the RV6A?
>
> Name tel; number etc...
>
> I heard there is one builder that is making these for the owners.. and that
> are better fit, than the ones from Van's..
>
> Thanks for the information
>
>
> Bert rv6a
>
> Do not Archive
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | New AD from Van's |
Bert,
Get the Bulletin (*SB 07-11-09)* from Van's. The fork was about $154
(Check the list). The leg you have may or may not be usable with
modification. The SB has all the info you need to determine the parts
you need. The mod to my RV7A gear leg was $75 plus shipping. There is a
new FAQ *(SB 07-11-09 ** FAQ's)* pdf on Van's website with pricing and info.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/notices.htm
*
***
* *
--
Ralph C. Hoover
RV7A
hooverra at verizon dot net
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pans Fairings |
Bert,
go here http://www.fairings-etc.com/ for all the info on the fairings for
your 6A. I used them and have been very happy.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bert Murillo" <bertrv6@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 7:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wheel Pans Fairings
>
> Hi:
>
> Can some tell me, where I can buy the Fairings for the, Wheel pans,
> and the gear legs-fuselage fairings, for the RV6A?
>
> Name tel; number etc...
>
> I heard there is one builder that is making these for the owners.. and
> that
> are better fit, than the ones from Van's..
>
> Thanks for the information
>
>
> Bert rv6a
>
> Do not Archive
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Removing Ethanol from your car-gas? |
It would be nice if you checked your facts. MTBE was used as an octane
enhancer long before the oxygenate use came about. Both MTBE and ethanol
are well over 100 octane.
Ed wrote:
>
> MTBE was the stuff getting into the groundwater and replaced by
> ethanol, but both are intended as oxygenators - supposed to reduce
> emissions - and neither do much for the octane rating.
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
>
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