Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:43 AM - Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting (Dave Nellis)
2. 03:51 AM - Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold (Doug Gray)
3. 04:44 AM - Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting (Robin Marks)
4. 05:11 AM - Re: Wheel Pants fairings (Bob)
5. 06:24 AM - Re: Van's foil comm antenna (Bob)
6. 06:53 AM - Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting (Darwin N. Barrie)
7. 07:49 AM - Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting (n7hqk)
8. 08:08 AM - Re: Van's foil comm antenna (Darrell Reiley)
9. 08:10 AM - FAA wants input re changes needed (Charles Heathco)
10. 08:10 AM - Re: Wheel Pants fairings (Ron Lee)
11. 08:10 AM - Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting (David Burton)
12. 08:10 AM - Nosewheel pant brackets (Ralph E. Capen)
13. 08:26 AM - Re Trutrac and Trio Cust svc (Charles Heathco)
14. 08:31 AM - Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
15. 08:40 AM - Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting (Steven DiNieri)
16. 08:45 AM - wheel pants, fairings (Bert Murillo)
17. 09:21 AM - Re: Re Trutrac and Trio Cust svc (Konrad L. Werner)
18. 09:51 AM - Re: wheel pants, fairings (Ralph E. Capen)
19. 10:39 AM - Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold (Ron Lee)
20. 10:43 AM - Re: Re Trutrac and Trio Cust svc (mike humphrey)
21. 11:12 AM - Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting (Dave Nellis)
22. 11:14 AM - Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold (Sam Buchanan)
23. 12:39 PM - Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting (Brian Meyette)
24. 12:49 PM - Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold (Ron Lee)
25. 01:50 PM - Nosewheel pant brackets (Ralph Hoover)
26. 02:02 PM - Sun-N-Fun (cbrxxdrv@aol.com)
27. 02:08 PM - Re: Nosewheel pant brackets (Ralph E. Capen)
28. 02:55 PM - Safety-Trim Group Buy (Bob-tcw)
29. 04:41 PM - Re Trutrac and Trio Cust svc (Ralph Hoover)
30. 06:05 PM - Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting (n801bh@netzero.com)
31. 06:45 PM - Marker Beacon in lower cowl (Donald Harker)
32. 07:04 PM - Re: Marker Beacon in lower cowl (Carl Froehlich)
33. 07:56 PM - Required RV Tools (Bill Schlatterer)
34. 08:30 PM - Re: Marker Beacon in lower cowl (David Leonard)
35. 10:07 PM - Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold (bobperk90658@bellsouth.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
Just to be correct, mercury vapor lights have a bluish
light. If the light is a deep yellow, it is a low
pressure sodium light. If the light is almost white
with a yellowish tint, it is a high pressure sodium
light.
Dave
--- Steven DiNieri <capsteve@adelphia.net> wrote:
> <capsteve@adelphia.net>
>
> Brian
> I'd avoid this route as this is exactly what I've
> done. the color from the
> cheap mercvapor lighting is an awful yellow that
> distorts all color
> perception. although the light was bright enough, i
> actually got headaches
> from the poor light color after long periods of
> exposure. i haven't changed
> them out yet, but i have lined the perimeter of the
> hangar with 4ft
> fluorescent fixtures and it has made a huge
> difference. perhaps the best
> lighting solution is a marriage of different
> technologies.
> of coarse your mileage may vary...
> steve dinieri
> Iflyrv10.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Brian Meyette
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:13 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>
> <bmeyette@gmail.com>
>
> What was suggested to me as the cheapest and
> simplest way to get good
> lighting is to use those mercury vapor yard lights.
> You can just tape over
> the light sensor, or I rewired mine around the
> sensor. Lots of light, they
> only cost about $25 each, and they are not sensitive
> to cold as fluorescents
> are.
> brian
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Michael Kraus
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:02 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>
> --> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
>
>
> I am building a new hanger on my house and was
> looking for information on
> what type of hanger lighting to install. The
> ceilings will be 16' tall and
> it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work lighting
> throughout. Also, if
> anyone knows of the light spacing it would help.
>
> Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 Flying
> RV-10 wiring
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 11:06 AM
>
>
> 11:06 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> Admin.
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold |
On Mon, 2007-12-10 at 19:11 -0600, Sam Buchanan wrote:
> autopilot is not necessarily a simple endeavor. It is particularly
> difficult for the Trio guys because they designed their unit to be
> compatible with only data that strictly follows standard NMEA
> protocol.
> The software designer at Trio has a ballistic missile guidance
> background and he is *very picky* :-) about having his unit only
> track
> p
Sam and others,
>From what I have seen the NMEA sentences are not properly defined in the
first instance and are interpreted differently by just about every
manufacturer.
Because of these differences most software that reads NMEA sentences (or
any other nav data for that matter) must be validated with each sending
device one by one.
The differences are not just the sentence structure (when does a null
value mean zero, is an integer 0 the same as a float zero 0.0) where
well tested bullet proof software is necessary to be able to parse all
manner of data variants. Some of these differences can be very subtle.
Though not NMEA related I have personally seen a navy frigate nav system
fail because it received a heading of 360.0 degrees rather than 0.0
degrees. There are well documented incidents of nav failures when
aircraft have crossed the International Date line.
Did you know some GPSs will send data for more than 12 satellites -
ambiguous in NMEA and in the manufacturers spec but only discovered when
the constellation grew. You don't want your system to crash when
satellite #13 shows up in the messages.
There are also significant dynamic differences between GPSs.
Each GPS chip-set manufacturer implements it's own proprietary (and
secret) algorithms. This will include the type and nature of the
filtering and these factors will significantly alter the interaction
between a GPS and say an autopilot.
For example it is reasonably clear how the cross track error responds
along a straight course segment, but what about near to or transiting
through a way point. How does the smoothing algorithm alter this
behaviour.
Also another factor - what about a reduced satellite signal strength
(sunspots/antenna preamp problems/out of band interference) impact on
position error and resulting tracking performance.
Garmin is pretty lean with specifications on their products performance
and are no better than any other chip-set maker at specifying how the
dynamics work. This makes it pretty difficult for an auto pilot or alt
hold manufacturer to make GPS coupling work well with any NMEA source.
Even then each will require considerable testing.
IF GRT and TRIO are as reputable as people are reporting I am not
surprised that we do not see immediate support. Perhaps it will come
when they have the interfaces properly specified between themselves.
'nuf said, rant over.
Doug Gray
Message 3
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| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
Ok, I would like to chime in on yet another subject I know NOTHING
about!
I own a 50' x 50' hangar (2500 square feet) and it came with lighting
that was detailed in Jim's email:
http://www.businesslights.com/high-bay-metal-halide-fixtures-c-277_477.h
tml
My unit has only 4 of these lights hung very high in the rafters
(probably 25' high ceilings) and it is plenty of light for that space.
Frankly I was surprised to see how inexpensive they were listed as I
always assumed they were more expensive that that.
While I have read and understand that lowing the lights is the proper
decision for some styles of lights if one goes into a Costco you see
these lights suspended all the way up the very top of the store, well
clear of any equipment or storage needs. I assume they know what they
are doing in placing these lamps that high.
The drawback to these lights is that they do not turn on instantly. When
I flip the switch I get annoyed that I don't have instant light but
before I think about it a second time the lights are fully on. I have no
idea how energy efficient these lights are but I am a satisfied owner
for both amount or light and light quality.
4:30 am, Can't sleep,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 400 Hours
RV-10 BPE Engine arrived
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pants fairings |
At 05:18 PM 12/10/07, you wrote:
>
>Hi:
>
>I asked this before, but I did not get complete info.
>
>After seeing the prices on Van's, Over $200 and a fellow builder more
>than $300.... It is for us to steep....
If you think this is expensive, try buying a set for a DR-107 One
Design! To really save money, make your own. Of course, you don't
need them at all to fly.
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Van's foil comm antenna |
I tried it, very poor reception, both in the air and ground. Went
with a standard antenna on the bottom of the fuselage.
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
At 01:33 PM 12/10/07, you wrote:
>Has anyone successfully used Van's copper foil comm antenna that
>mounts on the windscreen...or anyone who would recommend NOT using it?
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
Living in a residential airpark I've got to see a variety of lighting.
All of the hangars on my street are the same dimensions, 45'x40', 15'
ceilings. Stock lighting was 6 -2 bulb 4' flourescent fixtures. This is
inadequate. One of my neighbors went with 6 -4 bulb 4' fixtures and this
improved things greatly but still wasn't ideal.
By far the best lighting I've seen is large Halogen fixtures. My next
door neighbor has them and his lighting is unequalled. Another followed
his lead but added a couple of extra fixtures. He has light.
Another huge factor is the floor. My floor is epoxy and gray in color
with a slight gloss finish. My next door neigbor (with the halogens)
floor is tan, leaning toward a more yellowish tint with very little
gloss. Although the lights are white the hangar has a yellowish tint
when the lights are on.
The other neighbor who added halogens has a light blue floor with light
gloss. He has the best lighting on the block.
If doing again, I'd go with the halogens despite the added cost. The
lighting is incredible. The fixtures hang down from the ceiling making
bulb changes although my neighbor hasn't had any bulb failures in 6
years. Good lighting makes things so much nicer. I'm going to go with
the halogens before next summer.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
RV7 N717EE
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
I built my shop several years ago and wrestled with the lighting issue. I tried several and have finally settled on using "brood Lights" with the clamp removed, that I got at Lowes, They are single lamp screw base fixtures that have a 10" aluminum reflector. I installed eight 4x4 outlet boxes on the ceiling of the 35'x40 shop for a total of 32 lights. I use the 20' cords that the lamps come with to suspend them over each of my work areas. I can drop them down to just above the table top of a work table or pull them up over the main parking bay to clear my truck... I have each outfitted with a 9-27 watt standard CFL bulb and they are switched in banks of 8. I use the cheap plastic work clamps and/or a zip tie to clip the wire to a conduit over where I need the lamp and have screwed 16" long sections of 4" PVC pipe to the ceiling to roll up the excess cordage and stuff it into to get it out of the way. While I was wiring I also installed 8 ea. quad outlet boxes on #10 AWG 3 cond. SO cord that drop to the floor from the ceiling for outlets in the shop. I'll post some photos of the setup on my kitlog site http://www.mykitlog.com/n7hqk . I love it! Low cost the CLF's start in the cold and can be purchased cheaply and in various color temps and cost little to run.
--------
Ray D. Congdon - N7HQK
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151658#151658
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Van's foil comm antenna |
Bob,
Do you have a picture of this contraption?
Darrell
--- Bob <panamared5@brier.net> wrote:
> <panamared5@brier.net>
>
> I tried it, very poor reception, both in the air and
> ground. Went
> with a standard antenna on the bottom of the
> fuselage.
>
> Bob
> RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
>
> At 01:33 PM 12/10/07, you wrote:
> >Has anyone successfully used Van's copper foil comm
> antenna that
> >mounts on the windscreen...or anyone who would
> recommend NOT using it?
>
>
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> Admin.
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Message 9
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| Subject: | FAA wants input re changes needed |
Have you come across something that's arcane, anachronistic or just
plain useless in your travels through the regs? Well, the FAA says it
wants to know about it. The agency has issued a Review of Existing
Regulations that invites anyone with a beef about how the law of the air
is now set to drop them a line. "Getting public comments is a necessary
element of our effort to make our regulations more effective and less
burdensome," the agency claims in the document. It's asking that you
list the top three aggravations in descending order for it to consider.
More...
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pants fairings |
If you think this is expensive, try buying a set for a DR-107 One
> Design! To really save money, make your own. Of course, you don't
> need them at all to fly.
>
Wheel pants and gear leg fairings may be the cheapest speed improvement
you will do. And the improvement is substantial.
Ron Lee
Message 11
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| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
"By far the best lighting I've seen is large Halogen fixtures. My next door
neighbor has them and his lighting is unequalled. Another followed his lead
but added a couple of extra fixtures. He has light. "
I'm just about to tackle the lighting issue myself. Can you give us any
more information about the type of halogen fixture you like? I like metal
halide a lot, but it's pretty expensive to run and the bulbs are expensive
and have a fairly short life.
Thanks,
Dave
Message 12
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| Subject: | Nosewheel pant brackets |
Folks,
I'm trying to verify if the original "two brackets per side" have been replaced
by a single bracket per side (U-713C-L and U-713C-R). It should be held on by
a single 3/8"x24x3/4" allen screw with washer/lockwasher on each side and hooks
around the axel bolt. My understanding is that the new brackets allow easier
maintenance without disassembling the nosewheel to fork assembly.
Are there other parts in this assembly? My earlier kit does not have the newer
parts and I would like to do things easier. I think drawing C2 has probably
been updated too......
Thanks in advance,
Ralph Capen
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re Trutrac and Trio Cust svc |
I can tell you that Trio Cust Svc is outstanding and that Trutrack
customer service is not worth a damn. Charlie Heathco
Message 14
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| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
That depends on what type of fluorescent you are using. I have a 40x64 shop/hanger
up here in Wisconsin and I use 8 of the 8ft High Output strip lights you
can find from your local LowesDepot for about $50. If it drops below 30F it
takes them a couple minutes to warm up for full light output but they work fine
down into the negative temperatures with no flicker. Again, they MUST be the
110 watt HO type light which are also referred to as "cold start". Another
nice thing is they are cheaper to run than most other lighting out there, I believe
each fixture is around 1.5 amp.
The 8 lights in that space are adequate but two more would probably be perfect.
I would also try and get units with a reflector. If you look around on the
net you can get HO ballasts and just pick up the el cheapo 8' lights w/reflector
and swap the ballast.
Michael Sausen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 9:29 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
If this is not a heated area I would not recommend using the 8'
fluorescents. They do not respond as well to colder weather as they
flicker. You can use 4' fixtures with light shields (ceiling height) but
there are better options. Lowes and Home Depot sell a 65 watt fluorescent
area light that is round and has a parabolic type reflective lens. We have
many hangars here at our airpark that uses these including mine. A new
hangar was just built and 9 of these were spaced out in there which provides
excellent lighting in this hangar. The cost for these is around $44each.
We have some metal hangars that have very high ceilings and the same light
were used but were mounted on a metal extension to get the light down to
about 10-12 feet off the floor.
I am not an engineer and I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night
but I did spend over 20 years installing lighting systems in both
residential and commercial applications. I used these lights in my hangar
and they work well.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Nelson
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:41 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>
>
>
> Hi Michael,
>
> I can't speak about hangar lighting specifically, but I'll share my
> experiences
> w/ lighting the garage.
>
> I initially went with some dual florescenct bulb fixtures (40 watt, I
> believe)
> that hung from an 8' ceiling about one foot. Sadly, they just didn't
> quite put
> out the kind of light I was wanting. Especially if I was going to be
> working
> under them. And, admittedly, I was a little tight in the wallet when I
> purchased them.
>
> I eventually replaced the above units w/ some dual flourescent 8 foot, 96
> watt
> bulbs (F96T12 bulbs). The fixtures attached to the ceiling. At the time
> (~4
> yrs ago), the fixture and bulbs were about $50 per setup at Lowes. Also,
> the
> nice thing about the F96T12 bulbs is that you don't have insert-and-twist
> to
> install them. They use the spring loaded setup that works axially; so
> it's
> more of a stab-and-release operation.
>
> About a year ago I helped a friend replace some 2'x2' units in his office.
> The
> new units used some little skinny flourescent bulbs (~3/4 of the diameter
> of
> the traditional flourescent bulbs) that relied on electronics rather than
> ballasts to operate. When we 1st turned them on, we couldn't help but
> notice
> how bright they were. Don't know if they exist in the longer versions or
> not,
> but you might consider them.
>
> Also, since you're installing in a hangar (and with a high ceiling that is
> probably dark and does not reflect any light), I'd consider adding some
> kind of
> reflector that covers the top of the fixture to relect light back down
> where
> it's needed/wanted. No sense wasting light upwards.
>
> Good luck,
>
> /\/elson
> RV-7A - Fuse (getting close to the canopy work)
> Austin, TX
>
>
> On Mon, 10 Dec 2007, Michael Kraus wrote:
>
> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
> >
> >
> >
> > I am building a new hanger on my house and was looking for information
> on
> > what type of hanger lighting to install. The ceilings will be 16' tall
> and
> > it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work lighting throughout. Also, if
> > anyone knows of the light spacing it would help.
> >
> > Thanks -Mike Kraus RV-4 Flying RV-10 wiring
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
You are spot on. I really shouldn't call my lights mercury vapors as I don't
know exactly what I bought.....duh.. from your description I probably bought
low pres sodium lamps.
the point I was making (or trying to ) was to avoid the temptation
to buy cheap lowe-depot lights. Because as with everything else, you get
what you pay for.
OH, To top the cake, a week ago Sunday when I opened the hangar door
the acrylic diffuser dropped off one of the suspended light fixtures and
smashed on the floor a few feet from the wing of my 6A. It looked as if the
heat from the bulb was slowly cooking the plastic over time making it
brittle, and although the lamp was cold when it fell off, a gust of wind may
have caught it.
Steve dinieri
Iflyrv10.com
Just to be correct, mercury vapor lights have a bluish
light. If the light is a deep yellow, it is a low
pressure sodium light. If the light is almost white
with a yellowish tint, it is a high pressure sodium
light.
Dave
--- Steven DiNieri <capsteve@adelphia.net> wrote:
> <capsteve@adelphia.net>
>
> Brian
> I'd avoid this route as this is exactly what I've
> done. the color from the
> cheap mercvapor lighting is an awful yellow that
> distorts all color
> perception. although the light was bright enough, i
> actually got headaches
> from the poor light color after long periods of
> exposure. i haven't changed
> them out yet, but i have lined the perimeter of the
> hangar with 4ft
> fluorescent fixtures and it has made a huge
> difference. perhaps the best
> lighting solution is a marriage of different
> technologies.
> of coarse your mileage may vary...
> steve dinieri
> Iflyrv10.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Brian Meyette
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:13 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>
> <bmeyette@gmail.com>
>
> What was suggested to me as the cheapest and
> simplest way to get good
> lighting is to use those mercury vapor yard lights.
> You can just tape over
> the light sensor, or I rewired mine around the
> sensor. Lots of light, they
> only cost about $25 each, and they are not sensitive
> to cold as fluorescents
> are.
> brian
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Michael Kraus
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:02 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>
> --> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
>
>
> I am building a new hanger on my house and was
> looking for information on
> what type of hanger lighting to install. The
> ceilings will be 16' tall and
> it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work lighting
> throughout. Also, if
> anyone knows of the light spacing it would help.
>
> Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 Flying
> RV-10 wiring
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 11:06 AM
>
>
> 11:06 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> Admin.
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Message 16
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| Subject: | wheel pants, fairings |
Hello:
I am looking for some one, other than Van's, I try not to buy anything
from them if
I can avoided. Not the way I have been treated by some people there....
I got the name of a builder, named Bob,,, but I will not pay $300 plus..
Is there any person or company, that sell the fairings, for the rv6a..?
at a reasonable price?
Thanks for the information and or suggestions.
Bert
rv6a
do not archive
.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Re Trutrac and Trio Cust svc |
How would you know so on both? Tell the whole story, will ya...
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Heathco
To: rv-list
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 9:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re Trutrac and Trio Cust svc
I can tell you that Trio Cust Svc is outstanding and that Trutrack
customer service is not worth a damn. Charlie Heathco
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: wheel pants, fairings |
Sam James has wheel pants for 5x5 and 6x6 wheels. He also has wingroot fairings
for the 4 (might fit the 6/7/9 too?!)
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bert Murillo <bertrv6@gmail.com>
>Sent: Dec 11, 2007 11:42 AM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: wheel pants, fairings
>
>
>Hello:
>
>I am looking for some one, other than Van's, I try not to buy anything
>from them if
>I can avoided. Not the way I have been treated by some people there....
>
>I got the name of a builder, named Bob,,, but I will not pay $300 plus..
>
>Is there any person or company, that sell the fairings, for the rv6a..?
>at a reasonable price?
>
>Thanks for the information and or suggestions.
>
>
>Bert
>
>rv6a
>
>do not archive
>.
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold |
I know the individuals at Trio and their high level of business ethics
> prevented them from releasing their EZ-Pilot until it was ready for prime
> time. It was tough for the Trio guys to sit on their baby during
> development as TT gained market share, but they were determined to release
> no units before their time.
Note the issues with one electronic ignition system. At least one forced
landing resulted from what may have been software/hardware issues.
>
>> Is it lack of GPSS steering?
>
> That is a perceived difference but there is much more to the GPSS steering
> issue than meets the uneducated eye. I won't delve into that, just to say
> that for most of us "GPSS" is vastly overrated, and is not unique in an
> operational sense to TT.
Since I don't understand GPSS I just read this link:
http://www.avionicswest.com/articles/GPSS.htm
I still have no idea why I want or need it. My Trio EZ-Pilot tracks
courses,
intercepts courses, maintains a heading if GPS is lost and will follow GPS
approaches (probably VOR and ILS as well...I just don't remember).
You have options and I am not going to bash TruTrak. I suspect that it
is a fine system.
Ron Lee
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Re Trutrac and Trio Cust svc |
Have not had any dealings with Trio, but TruTrak has been super with me.
Bought my ADI Pilot II from A/C Spruce. Arrived without servos,
mounting hdwre, and was an ADI Pilot I, but paid the Pilot II price.
A/C Spruce rep didn't know that there was a difference. Called TT and
explained the situation, also told them that the unit that I received
had 'stuff' rattling around inside. TT immediately told me to give them
my invoice #, name, date of purchase and that they would contact A/C
Spruce. Called me back in 20 minutes and told me to either send it back
to A/C Spruce or to them directly. Sent it to them. Within 2 weeks
turn around TT sent me the new, complete ADI Pilot II with everything
that I paid for through A/C Spruce. Even paid shipping both ways. To
top it off, A/C Spruce had a promotion on at the time that was selling
the ADI Pilot II BELOW TT cost, according to TT. TT still honored the
price without a squabble. How can you beat that service?
FYI - whenever A/C Spruce has a 'request quote' price. USE IT! I have
purchased MANY items from them that have a VERY reduced price. Also did
y'all know that A/C Spruce has a price matching policy? Find the
cheapest price that you can on the web and they will beat it-even Van's.
All they ask for is the website name.
Back on TT-get Stein to build you your harness-he will at no extra
charge include a jack in the wiring harness to plug your GPS
into-including handhelds if TT supports it, as with my AvMap IV that I
panel mounted in my 9A using the AirGizmos docking station.
My 2cents worth,
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Heathco
To: rv-list
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 11:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re Trutrac and Trio Cust svc
I can tell you that Trio Cust Svc is outstanding and that Trutrack
customer service is not worth a damn. Charlie Heathco
Message 21
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| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
The ones you see at Costco are 400 watt fixtures and
they are high up so the light "umbrella" they cast
overlaps with the next fixture. Next time you are in
their store, find an open area of floor and count how
many shadows your body casts, if you can see them.
Dave
30+ years an electrician
--- Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com> wrote:
> Ok, I would like to chime in on yet another subject
> I know NOTHING
> about!
>
> I own a 50' x 50' hangar (2500 square feet) and it
> came with lighting
> that was detailed in Jim's email:
>
>
http://www.businesslights.com/high-bay-metal-halide-fixtures-c-277_477.h
> tml
>
> My unit has only 4 of these lights hung very high in
> the rafters
> (probably 25' high ceilings) and it is plenty of
> light for that space.
> Frankly I was surprised to see how inexpensive they
> were listed as I
> always assumed they were more expensive that that.
>
> While I have read and understand that lowing the
> lights is the proper
> decision for some styles of lights if one goes into
> a Costco you see
> these lights suspended all the way up the very top
> of the store, well
> clear of any equipment or storage needs. I assume
> they know what they
> are doing in placing these lamps that high.
>
> The drawback to these lights is that they do not
> turn on instantly. When
> I flip the switch I get annoyed that I don't have
> instant light but
> before I think about it a second time the lights are
> fully on. I have no
> idea how energy efficient these lights are but I am
> a satisfied owner
> for both amount or light and light quality.
>
>
>
> 4:30 am, Can't sleep,
>
> Robin
>
> RV-4 Sold
>
> RV-6A 400 Hours
>
> RV-10 BPE Engine arrived
>
>
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold |
Ron Lee wrote:
>>> Is it lack of GPSS steering?
>>
>> That is a perceived difference but there is much more to the GPSS
>> steering issue than meets the uneducated eye. I won't delve into that,
>> just to say that for most of us "GPSS" is vastly overrated, and is not
>> unique in an operational sense to TT.
>
> Since I don't understand GPSS I just read this link:
>
> http://www.avionicswest.com/articles/GPSS.htm
>
> I still have no idea why I want or need it. My Trio EZ-Pilot tracks
> courses,
> intercepts courses, maintains a heading if GPS is lost and will follow GPS
> approaches (probably VOR and ILS as well...I just don't remember).
Ron, I think what builders considering an autopilot need to keep in mind
in regards to "GPSS" is that the current digital systems work so well
that GPSS is for all practical purposes a moot point. It seems to me
that the effort TruTrak has taken to promote GPSS is primarily to
differentiate their system from the legacy systems (Century, S-Tec,
etc). As you mentioned, our Trio EZ-Pilots track so accurately that we
have no need for "GPSS". GPSS sounds pretty cool if all you have flown
are the old analog autopilots, but for us fortunate enough to enjoy the
digital toys in our experimental aircraft, our systems far outperform
the old stuff.
I still marvel at how a sub-$2000 autopilot can hold my plane within a
wingspan of the course line with an inexpensive handheld GPS providing
the data! How many King Airs and Citations can match that? :-)
Sam Buchanan
Message 23
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| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
I haven't actually installed mine yet, so thanks for the tip. I'd just
bought one at my electrician's suggestion, to see how the concept would
work. I'll check it for color before installing it. Thanks
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven DiNieri
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 1:34 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
Brian
I'd avoid this route as this is exactly what I've done. the color from the
cheap mercvapor lighting is an awful yellow that distorts all color
perception. although the light was bright enough, i actually got headaches
from the poor light color after long periods of exposure. i haven't changed
them out yet, but i have lined the perimeter of the hangar with 4ft
fluorescent fixtures and it has made a huge difference. perhaps the best
lighting solution is a marriage of different technologies.
of coarse your mileage may vary...
steve dinieri
Iflyrv10.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
What was suggested to me as the cheapest and simplest way to get good
lighting is to use those mercury vapor yard lights. You can just tape over
the light sensor, or I rewired mine around the sensor. Lots of light, they
only cost about $25 each, and they are not sensitive to cold as fluorescents
are.
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
--> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
I am building a new hanger on my house and was looking for information on
what type of hanger lighting to install. The ceilings will be 16' tall and
it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work lighting throughout. Also, if
anyone knows of the light spacing it would help.
Thanks
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 Flying
RV-10 wiring
11:06 AM
11:06 AM
11:06 AM
2:51 PM
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold |
> I still marvel at how a sub-$2000 autopilot can hold my plane within a
> wingspan of the course line with an inexpensive handheld GPS providing the
> data! How many King Airs and Citations can match that? :-)
That is probably why Sam. I often save flight tracks on my Airmap 500
and it is easy to tell when I am flying and when the Trio EZ-Pilot is
flying.
Now to get the altitude hold so ATC does not see the 100-200' (is that all?)
altitude excursions when I make a sandwich or read a map.
Ron Lee
Message 25
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| Subject: | Nosewheel pant brackets |
Ralph,
The single piece brackets for the nosewheel are as you describe. I
just drilled out the 2 piece brackets and replaced them. Not to bad a
job. I made a mandrel that located the new bracket via the axle holes in
the pant and a 3/8 dowel through the front holes a couple brass flair
fitting nuts that had a 3/8 id and a tapered OD centered the front holes
in the existing cap screw access holes. Note if you haven't drilled your
pants yet all of this is moot.
I didn't order the washers called out on the drawing so I just
drilled a 1/4" ID AN 970-4 fender washer to 3/8 and along with a thick
and thin 3/8 AN960-616 the rear attachment is just right. Was it worth
it, don't know depends on how many time the pant would need to be
removed while leaving the wheel in place. It's not a big deal to remove
the front of the pant and swing the strut end up onto a block of wood. I
suspect I'll have it all off and on more while fitting and finishing
than in all of the next few years.
The updated drawing came with my new fork. I thing I need to go one
size longer on the boll as well.
If you are making the change you will need:
Drawing C1 R3
1 ea U-713-L
1 ea U-713-R
2 ea AN960-616L Washers
2 ea AN960-616 Washers
2 ea 062 25783054 Washers ( I drilled 2 AN 970-4's but it's much easier
to just add the right washers to your bracket order)
The bolt is still called out as a AN6-60A as before but I only have
about a single thread showing. YMMV
The drawing calls for plate nuts and #8 screws to hold the bracket on, I
used -3 flush rivets 3 per tab and assembled it with epoxy and a layer
of fiberglass. I hope to never see the fasteners!!
Good luck
--
Ralph C. Hoover
RV7A Almost ready for the trip to the airport for final assembly.
hooverra at verizon dot net
Message 26
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|
The Thunderbirds will be @ Sun-N-Fun this year.
Should be a good show, it has been several years since they have attended and performed.
I just got a memo from the airport. I am sure it will be on the Sun-N-Fun site
soon if not already.
Sal
Lakeland, FL
________________________________________________________________________
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel pant brackets |
Thanks Ralph!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Ralph Hoover <hooverra@verizon.net>
>Sent: Dec 11, 2007 4:48 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Nosewheel pant brackets
>
>
>Ralph,
> The single piece brackets for the nosewheel are as you describe. I
>just drilled out the 2 piece brackets and replaced them. Not to bad a
>job. I made a mandrel that located the new bracket via the axle holes in
>the pant and a 3/8 dowel through the front holes a couple brass flair
>fitting nuts that had a 3/8 id and a tapered OD centered the front holes
>in the existing cap screw access holes. Note if you haven't drilled your
>pants yet all of this is moot.
> I didn't order the washers called out on the drawing so I just
>drilled a 1/4" ID AN 970-4 fender washer to 3/8 and along with a thick
>and thin 3/8 AN960-616 the rear attachment is just right. Was it worth
>it, don't know depends on how many time the pant would need to be
>removed while leaving the wheel in place. It's not a big deal to remove
>the front of the pant and swing the strut end up onto a block of wood. I
>suspect I'll have it all off and on more while fitting and finishing
>than in all of the next few years.
> The updated drawing came with my new fork. I thing I need to go one
>size longer on the boll as well.
> If you are making the change you will need:
>Drawing C1 R3
>1 ea U-713-L
>1 ea U-713-R
>2 ea AN960-616L Washers
>2 ea AN960-616 Washers
>2 ea 062 25783054 Washers ( I drilled 2 AN 970-4's but it's much easier
>to just add the right washers to your bracket order)
>The bolt is still called out as a AN6-60A as before but I only have
>about a single thread showing. YMMV
>
>The drawing calls for plate nuts and #8 screws to hold the bracket on, I
>used -3 flush rivets 3 per tab and assembled it with epoxy and a layer
>of fiberglass. I hope to never see the fasteners!!
> Good luck
>
>--
>Ralph C. Hoover
>RV7A Almost ready for the trip to the airport for final assembly.
>hooverra at verizon dot net
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Safety-Trim Group Buy |
Dear Fellow RV Builders,
TCW Technologies and SteinAir are pleased to announce a group
buy is now available on our new servo trim controller. Safety-Trim is
an electronic trim servo controller that resolves the issues with
run-away trim conditions plus it provides 2 speed trim operation as well
as greatly simplified switch wiring.
For all the detail please follow this direct link:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=24478
Thank you,
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re Trutrac and Trio Cust svc |
Charlie,
Sorry to hear you had an issue with TruTrak's customer service. I
had a problem with a cracked case on my ADI-II ( used a tinybit of
halomar sealant, DON"T it caused the case material to deteriorate and
crack). TruTrak replaced the case in short order and didn't charge me a
dime. I would recommend them to anyone.
--
Ralph C. Hoover
RV7A
hooverra at verizon dot net
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
I have always used 8' High output fixtures in all my race shops and oth
er large areas. I install the F96T12CWHO bulbs and the light output is s
ubstantial. I recently built a big garage for a customer and he bought
those new T-8 fixtures, tiny bulbs and all. My first impression was, "t
his won't work". Well in a 50'X60' shop I put up just 4 of the four bulb
fixtures to give me some light to finish the place. The light output is
amazing, the price of the new fangled fixtures is staggering, but as in
all new things the cost will eventually come down. The biggest eye open
er was when I installed the diffusers. They look great but it cuts the l
ight output about in half. Moral of the story, leave off the diffusers a
nd let the polished reflectors do their thing....
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net> wrote:
You are spot on. I really shouldn't call my lights mercury vapors as I d
on't
know exactly what I bought.....duh.. from your description I probably bo
ught
low pres sodium lamps.
the point I was making (or trying to ) was to avoid the temptation
to buy cheap lowe-depot lights. Because as with everything else, you get
what you pay for.
OH, To top the cake, a week ago Sunday when I opened the hangar door
the acrylic diffuser dropped off one of the suspended light fixtures and
smashed on the floor a few feet from the wing of my 6A. It looked as if
the
heat from the bulb was slowly cooking the plastic over time making it
brittle, and although the lamp was cold when it fell off, a gust of wind
may
have caught it.
Steve dinieri
Iflyrv10.com
Just to be correct, mercury vapor lights have a bluish
light. If the light is a deep yellow, it is a low
pressure sodium light. If the light is almost white
with a yellowish tint, it is a high pressure sodium
light.
Dave
--- Steven DiNieri <capsteve@adelphia.net> wrote:
> <capsteve@adelphia.net>
>
> Brian
> I'd avoid this route as this is exactly what I've
> done. the color from the
> cheap mercvapor lighting is an awful yellow that
> distorts all color
> perception. although the light was bright enough, i
> actually got headaches
> from the poor light color after long periods of
> exposure. i haven't changed
> them out yet, but i have lined the perimeter of the
> hangar with 4ft
> fluorescent fixtures and it has made a huge
> difference. perhaps the best
> lighting solution is a marriage of different
> technologies.
> of coarse your mileage may vary...
> steve dinieri
> Iflyrv10.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Brian Meyette
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:13 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>
> <bmeyette@gmail.com>
>
> What was suggested to me as the cheapest and
> simplest way to get good
> lighting is to use those mercury vapor yard lights.
> You can just tape over
> the light sensor, or I rewired mine around the
> sensor. Lots of light, they
> only cost about $25 each, and they are not sensitive
> to cold as fluorescents
> are.
> brian
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Michael Kraus
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:02 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>
> --> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
>
>
> I am building a new hanger on my house and was
> looking for information on
> what type of hanger lighting to install. The
> ceilings will be 16' tall and
> it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work lighting
> throughout. Also, if
> anyone knows of the light spacing it would help.
>
> Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 Flying
> RV-10 wiring
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 11:06 AM
>
>
> 11:06 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> Admin.
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 31
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| Subject: | Marker Beacon in lower cowl |
Planning on glassing in a 40 " bare 22 gauge wire in bottom of 7A cowl for
use as marker beacon antenna. One concern is that the antenna is not
perfectly flat.
Anyone done this before?
Thanks
Don Harker
N767DH
Finishing
Message 32
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| Subject: | Marker Beacon in lower cowl |
It need not be flat, or straight. It need not be bare wire for that
matter.
Use a BNC bulkhead fitting at the firewall and a short piece of coax in
the
cowl side BNC connector, then transition from the center conductor of
the
coax to your wire. The coax shield need not extend past the connector
and
is not connected to anything. The coax just makes it easy to use a BNC
connector to disconnect the antenna for cowl removal.
If you have a ham friend have him/her check the antenna for resonance at
75
MHZ. In free air a =BC wavelength antenna (as your=92s will be) at this
frequency is 37.5 inches. If you don=92t have a ham friend to check,
then
just use 38=94 or so. This is really not critical for marker beacon
use.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (375 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Harker
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 9:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Marker Beacon in lower cowl
Planning on glassing in a 40 =93 bare 22 gauge wire in bottom of 7A cowl
for
use as marker beacon antenna. One concern is that the antenna is not
perfectly flat.
Anyone done this before?
Thanks
Don Harker
N767DH
Finishing
Message 33
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| Subject: | Required RV Tools |
If you don't know what tools you need to build an RV, check these,..
DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock
out
of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across
the room, denting the freshly-painted vertical stabilizer which you had
carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench
with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned cleco
calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh sh--...."
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL:
Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old
age.
SKILL SAW:
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS:
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of
blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER:
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into
major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It
transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more
you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS:
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing
else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat
to the palm of your hand.
WELDING GLOVES:
Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding
heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on
fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the
bearing race out of.
TABLE SAW:
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for
testing wall integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:
Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your
new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4:
Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack
handle.
E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR:
A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in
bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use.
BAND SAW:
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good
aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can
after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to
disconnect.
CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER:
A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined
screwdriver
tip on the end opposite the handle.
AVIATION METAL SNIPS:
See hacksaw.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for o pening old-style
paper-and-tin oil cans and s plashing oil on your shirt; but can also be
used,
as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted
screws into non-removable screws.
PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed
to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a
kind
of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we
are trying to hit.
MECHANIC'S KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered
to
your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl
records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and
rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but
only while in use.
DAMMIT TOOL:
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling
"DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool
that you will need .
Couldn't help it! ;-)
Bill S
7a Ark
Do not archive
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Marker Beacon in lower cowl |
Don,
I did something very similar to what Carl describes and it works adequate
though is not as sensitive as most certified installations I have flown...
Could be the RST receiver, but I blame my makeshift antenna and the
interference from all the metal parts around the engine.
I did the same with my nav antenna and it worked OK, though not great. I
recently changed it out for a wing-tip archer antenna an it seems to get a
much more stable nav signal.
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
On Dec 11, 2007 7:03 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@cox.net> wrote:
> It need not be flat, or straight. It need not be bare wire for that
> matter. Use a BNC bulkhead fitting at the firewall and a short piece of
> coax in the cowl side BNC connector, then transition from the center
> conductor of the coax to your wire. The coax shield need not extend past
> the connector and is not connected to anything. The coax just makes it e
asy
> to use a BNC connector to disconnect the antenna for cowl removal.
>
>
> If you have a ham friend have him/her check the antenna for resonance at
> 75 MHZ. In free air a =BC wavelength antenna (as your's will be) at this
> frequency is 37.5 inches. If you don't have a ham friend to check, then
> just use 38" or so. This is really not critical for marker beacon use.
>
>
> Carl Froehlich
>
> RV-8A (375 hrs)
>
> RV-10 (wings)
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Donald Harker
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 11, 2007 9:44 PM
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV-List: Marker Beacon in lower cowl
>
>
> Planning on glassing in a 40 " bare 22 gauge wire in bottom of 7A cowl fo
r
> use as marker beacon antenna. One concern is that the antenna is not
> perfectly flat.
>
>
> Anyone done this before?
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Don Harker
>
> N767DH
>
> Finishing
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> * *
>
> *
>
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com/contribution
===========
nics.com/Navigator?RV-List
===========
===========
> *
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold |
I chose the Trio because of the way it worked in a friends airplane. It was simple
and easy to operate. That is what I like simple. The servo looks good,
thats just it, it just looks good, and the slip clutch is easy to calibrate, if
it needs any calibration at all. I have not flow yet but when I do the Trio
should be intuitive to operate.
At Sun n Fun they took the time to explain all how the system works, they worked
hard to get it down to a level that I could understand, thats what I like simple,
for a simple minded guy like me, they got it down right. They ant paid
me nothing for this either.
Bob Perkinson
Do Not Archive
-------------- Original message from John Jessen <n212pj@gmail.com>: --------------
This thread is interesting to me. I'd not considered the Trio. TT seemed to be
the leader and well liked. Now I see that many seem satisfied with the Trio.
Why is it if their units are so good (and the pricing seems okay) and their
support very good, that they are not being supported by GRT? Why is it they
are not commanding the popular numbers of TT? Do they lack product depth? Is
their need for a separate knob and bezel for the altitude hold unit a drawback?
Is it lack of GPSS steering? Maybe they are just as popular as TT? What's
the deal?
John Jessen
do not archive
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Boyd
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold
Ron - from a safety standpoint, it is as you say, but for convenience, I find that
hand flying a GPS course line on cross country to be a piece of cake compared
to maintinaing a VFR cruise altitude when fumbling with cockpit chores in
my RV. Hence I would sooner give up the a/p function than the convenience of
altitude hold. Both work well and I'm very glad I have them. I have not yet
upgraded them over the most basic functionality.
On Dec 10, 2007 2:13 PM, Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net> wrote:
Bill, perhaps I misread your post. If I had to have only one of the two,
I would pick the EZ-Pilot (wing leveler/follow GPS course). Besides
following a course perfectly, it adds the safety of a wing leveler IF I ever
enter clouds, a 180 degree option if you enter clouds plus other functions.
I can maintain altitude semi-well without an altitude hold and not flying it
but an altitude hold with the EZ-Pilot (two axis control) would be ideal.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Boyd
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Trio Customer Service
Absolutely. I'd give up my EZ pilot before I gave up my altitude hold, for comfortable
x/c flying. Trio is first-rate. If/when they interface with the GRT
EFIS systems for full functionality (tru-trak is the favorite with GRT for now)
I'll be totally content (and perhaps finish my panel upgrade to all-glass.)
-Stormy
On Dec 10, 2007 11:52 AM, Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net> wrote:
I agree that they are very good. My EZ-Pilot allowed me to fly eight hours
in one day recently with minimal fatigue other than a sore derrierre.
Now I need to get the altitude hold to make long cross-countries even easier.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:41 AM
Subject: RV-List: Trio Customer Service
Hey all..quick note. Have an EZ Pilot in my RV-4. Put it in about a year +.
It quit holding a course and would engage and disengage the servo. I called trio,
they said, "another one is on the way". 2 Days later I had a new one. They
said to ship the other back when I had the chance. I installed it, it was
programmed already for my aircraft, and it worked perfectly. Absolutely wonderful
customer service. Don't forget those guys when you are building your panel.
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="
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<html>
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<DIV></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">I chose the Trio because of the
way it worked in a friends airplane.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>It
was simple and easy to operate.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>That
is what I like simple.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>The
servo looks good, thats just it, it just looks good, and the slip clutch
is easy to calibrate, if it needs any calibration at all.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun:
yes"> </SPAN>I have not flow yet but when I do the Trio should be
intuitive to operate. </P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">At Sun n Fun they took the time
to explain all how the system works, they worked hard to get it down to a level
that I could understand, thats what I like simple, for a simple minded guy like
me, they got it down right.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>They
ant paid me nothing for this either.</P>
<P>Bob Perkinson</P>
<P> </P>
<P>Do Not Archive<BR></P>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message from John Jessen <n212pj@gmail.com>:
-------------- <BR><BR>
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.3020" name=GENERATOR>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=406165123-10122007><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>This thread is interesting to me. I'd not considered the Trio.
TT seemed to be the leader and well liked. Now I see that many
seem satisfied with the Trio. Why is it if their units are so good (and
the pricing seems okay) and their support very good, that they are not being
supported by GRT? Why is it they are not commanding the popular numbers
of TT? Do they lack product depth? Is their need for a
separate knob and bezel for the altitude hold unit a drawback? Is
it lack of GPSS steering? Maybe they are just as popular as TT?
What's the deal? </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=406165123-10122007><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=406165123-10122007><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>John Jessen</FONT> </SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=406165123-10122007><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=406165123-10122007><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>do not archive</FONT></SPAN></DIV><BR>
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader lang=en-us dir=ltr align=left>
<HR tabIndex=-1>
<FONT face=Tahoma size=2><B>From:</B> owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] <B>On Behalf Of </B>Bill Boyd<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, December 10, 2007 11:35 AM<BR><B>To:</B> rv-list@matronics.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: RV-List: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Ron - from a safety standpoint, it is as you say, but for convenience,
I find that hand flying a GPS course line on cross country to be a piece of
cake compared to maintinaing a VFR cruise altitude when fumbling with cockpit
chores in my RV. Hence I would sooner give up the a/p function than the
convenience of altitude hold. Both work well and I'm very glad I have them.
I have not yet upgraded them over the most basic functionality. <BR><BR>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>On Dec 10, 2007 2:13 PM, Ron Lee <<A href="mailto:ronlee@pcisys.net">ronlee@pcisys.net</A>> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex;
BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid">
<DIV bgcolor="#ffffff">
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Bill, perhaps I misread your post. If I had
to have only one of the two,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I would pick the EZ-Pilot (wing leveler/follow GPS
course). Besides </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>following a course perfectly, it adds the safety of
a wing leveler IF I ever </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>enter clouds, a 180 degree option if you enter clouds
plus other functions.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I can maintain altitude semi-well without an altitude
hold and not flying it</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>but an altitude hold with the EZ-Pilot (two axis control)
would be ideal.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Ron Lee</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT:
5px; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(0,0,0) 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal">-----
Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: rgb(228,228,228) 0% 50%; FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; moz-background-clip: -moz-initial; moz-background-origin: -moz-initial; moz-background-inline-policy: -moz-initial"><B>From:</B> <A title=sportav8r@gmail.com href="mailto:sportav8r@gmail.com" target=_blank>Bill Boyd</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>To:</B> <A title=rv-list@matronics.com href="mailto:rv-list@matronics.com" target=_blank>rv-list@matronics.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Sent:</B>
Monday, December 10, 2007 10:48 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Subject:</B>
Re: RV-List: Trio Customer Service</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Absolutely. I'd give up my EZ pilot before I gave up my altitude
hold, for comfortable x/c flying. Trio is first-rate. If/when
they interface with the GRT EFIS systems for full functionality (tru-trak is
the favorite with GRT for now) I'll be totally content (and perhaps finish my
panel upgrade to all-glass.) <BR><BR>-Stormy<BR><BR>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>On Dec 10, 2007 11:52 AM, Ron Lee <<A href="mailto:ronlee@pcisys.net" target=_blank>ronlee@pcisys.net</A>> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex;
BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid">
<DIV bgcolor="#ffffff">
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I agree that they are very good. My EZ-Pilot
allowed me to fly eight hours</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>in one day recently with minimal fatigue other than
a sore derrierre.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Now I need to get the altitude hold to make long cross-countries
even easier.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Ron Lee</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT:
5px; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(0,0,0) 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal">-----
Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: rgb(228,228,228) 0% 50%; FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; moz-background-clip: -moz-initial; moz-background-origin: -moz-initial; moz-background-inline-policy: -moz-initial"><B>From:</B> <A title=pbesing@yahoo.com href="mailto:pbesing@yahoo.com" target=_blank>Paul Besing</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>To:</B> <A title=rv-list@matronics.com href="mailto:rv-list@matronics.com" target=_blank>rv-list@matronics.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Sent:</B>
Monday, December 10, 2007 8:41 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Subject:</B>
RV-List: Trio Customer Service</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman,new york,times,serif">
<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman,new york,times,serif">Hey
all..quick note. Have an EZ Pilot in my RV-4. Put it in about
a year +. It quit holding a course and would engage and disengage the servo.
I called trio, they said, "another one is on the way". 2 Days
later I had a new one. They said to ship the other back when I had the
chance. I installed it, it was programmed already for my aircraft, and
it worked perfectly. Absolutely wonderful customer service. Don't
forget those guys when you are building your panel.<BR><BR>Paul Besing<BR>RV-4
N73DD<BR><BR><BR></DIV></DIV><BR>Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. <PRE><B><FONT
face="courier new,courier" color=#000000 size=2>
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