Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:20 AM - Re:cutting off the sticks (glen matejcek)
2. 04:33 AM - Re: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire (glen matejcek)
3. 06:58 AM - Re: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire (Ed Anderson)
4. 07:03 AM - Re: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire (Ed Anderson)
5. 07:07 AM - Re: Re: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire (Ed Anderson)
6. 07:39 AM - Fw: [SERV] Fw: RV8A Brake Fire (Ed Anderson)
7. 09:42 AM - Re: Brake lines and Hydrauli fiRe: Plumbing Material (Skylor Piper)
8. 10:12 AM - Re: Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles.. (gbrasch)
9. 10:38 AM - Re: Brake lines and Hydrauli fiRe: Plumbing Material (Ed Anderson)
10. 10:51 AM - prop bolt length (tom sargent)
11. 11:37 AM - Brake lines and Hydraulic fire (James H Nelson)
12. 12:37 PM - Timing 0-360A1A (Tim Bryan)
13. 01:26 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (Tim Bryan)
14. 01:32 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (Bobby Hester)
15. 01:55 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (linn Walters)
16. 02:04 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (Larry Pardue)
17. 02:35 PM - Re: Re: Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles.. (Dave Nellis)
18. 03:51 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (lenleg@aol.com)
19. 03:57 PM - Re: Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles.. (gbrasch)
20. 04:56 PM - Need RV-4 Manual Page (Paul Besing)
21. 06:44 PM - Canopy "Big Cut" Question (Dwight Frye)
22. 07:23 PM - Re: Re: Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles.. (Vanremog@aol.com)
23. 09:35 PM - Re: Canopy "Big Cut" Question (Patrick Kelley)
24. 09:45 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (Tim Bryan)
25. 10:34 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (linn Walters)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RE:cutting off the sticks |
Hi Ed-
>This in an RV-6A - I wonder if there is a difference in spacing between
>stick location and panel in different models??
In my -8, a RAC/MAC stick grip (the old style) would have hit the fwd panel
had I not modified it. IIRC, I cut about 2" off of it, which I may live to
regret. I kind of like the idea of putting an 'S' curve into the stick, a
la decathlon.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.ne
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire |
Hi Again, Ed!
>Just had time to
>get the engine shut down and used the starter to get the prop horizontal
>before going into a ditch off the side of the runway.
Wow- quick thinking. Sometimes the force is with you. I was going to go
the Teflon route for the brake line loop to the caliper, but it's been
suggested that there is a threat of brake temps melting the Teflon in the
braided line. Does anyone have any hard evidence, numbers, or anecdotal
info to this effect?
>Did I mention, its smart to carry a fire extinguisher in your cockpit?
Thanks for reminding me to get that on the do list.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
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| Subject: | Re: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire |
Hi Linn,
Actually, I was surprised at the location of the break in the line,
myself. I would have though the flare would be the most likely place.
All flares were made with aircraft quality 37deg flaring tools.
But, in my case, a chunk of the line blew out, about 1/2 the
circumference of the tube and about 1" long - simply blew the side wall
out of the tube back about 3" from the Flare. I'll try to post some
photos in the photo section of the list.
I suspect that I may have work harden the tube in that area by trying to
get the loop around the axis correct - or it could have possibly been
nicked or otherwise damaged. However, after thinking about it, I
decided that having a length of aluminum tubing which does not have the
best fatigue life designed to flex as the calipers moved in and out was
not the best approach. Yes, I know, hundreds of folks have used it with
no problem - that not withstanding, aluminum tubing fatigues fairly
easily and I decided to eliminate it in my brake lines.
The Cleveland part number for the thicker rotors is 164-09900. I
purchased an equivalent pair from Chief Aircraft made by RAPPCO part
number RA164-09900. Aircraft Spruce sells the complete 199-93 kit
which when I checked will cost you around $300 for basically 2 rotor
discs, some shims, the brake linings and some labels to put on your
wheels.upgrade kit.
I purchased the two rotors from chief for $140 for the pair. Be advised
you will need a 1/8" spacer to fit between the two caliper pieces to
accommodate the thicker disc - Cleveland wanted $85 EACH for a 1/8"
thick piece of aluminum with two holes drilled in it - the spacer. I
made mine out of 6061T6 aluminum I had laying around. Took me about 45
minutes as you need to shape the inner side of the spacer so it matches
the curve of the disc.
Everything will fit inside the old (pre-pressure recovery) wheel pants,
but you will probably need to remake your wheel pant bracket - I made
new ones out of SS sheet - the old ones might work, but you have to
space it out further from the wheel due to the thicker rotor and then
the wheelpant attachment screws hole may not line up with the bracket
nutplates. You will need to make new bracket spacers and add 1/8" to
the length of those aluminum tube spacers that stand the brackets off of
the wheel.
The brakes feel much firmer, I get no brake fade even under heavy
braking and I have not smelled any indication that the brakes are
getting as hot as they once did. Theoretically having twice as much
metal to absorb the heat, the temps should be lower.
Hope this helps
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: linn Walters
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire
Ed Anderson wrote:
After a ruptured aluminum brake line (after 340 hours of flying)
resulted in runway departure, a hydraulic fire which charred tire and
wheel pant - whicht fortunately did not damage the aircraft, I went
with stainless steel braided brake lines with Teflon liners
Sorry ED. I'm not picking on you!!! Honest!!! :-)
Whgere did the hard line break??? At the flare??? Not uncommon.
Happened to me. My fault. Using cheap flaring tool (but an AN flare,
not a plumbers flare). Also. clamping the tubing down next to the
caliper hinders it's natural movement as the brake pads wear. another
problem area. Unfortunately, I was aware of the problem (yeah, after I
lost a brake on my Pitts but no fire or other damage besides extreme
embarrassment cause by doing pirouettes on the runway)
I also replace the older brake fluid with the newer MIL-PRF-83282 D
brake fluid which has a much higher flash point (around 440F). I then
replace the brake rotors with discs twice the thickness to hold down the
temps.
Thanks for those two tips. I wasn't aware of either. Can you give us
a part number for the thicker rotors???
Believe me it is a helpless feeling to have your brake go to the
floor and find you have no effective directional control.
AMEN!
Just had time to get the engine shut down and used the starter to
get the prop horizontal before going into a ditch off the side of the
runway. Perhaps I should have considered ground looping - with the
remaining good brake, but the thought did not occur until afterwards.
Hmmm. For me, I was mashing both pedals for all I was worth ..... and
it came as a surprise to me that the right one was hitting the firewall!
Did I mention, its smart to carry a fire extinguisher in your
cockpit?
Ya know, I'm rather thick headed (and oblivious to strong hints)
...... but even after two fires up front .... still don't have one.
Both fires were due to my stupidity (hope I don't make more mistakes
like that) and on the ground. Educational experiences I call 'em.
Linn
again, do not archive.
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
http://www.andersonee.com
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire |
Yes, I had to buy the new stuff by the gallon - enough to last me for a
decade {:>). Have not found any at local FBOs who carry it. Apparently
the need for the new higher flash point was driven my Military need for
less flammable brake fluid - so I read.
Yes, the thicker rotors will fit under the old (pre-pressure recovery)
wheelpants. However, I had to redo my wheelpant brackets and add 1/8"
to the three aluminum tube bracket spacers.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Vanremog@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 10:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire
In a message dated 12/21/2007 6:22:21 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net writes:
replace the older brake fluid with the newer MIL-PRF-83282 D brake
fluid which has a much higher flash point (around 440F). I then replace
the brake rotors with discs twice the thickness to hold down the temps.
Thanks for those two tips. I wasn't aware of either.
=
Search on the MIL-PRF in the archives. I tried to hip everyone to
this a couple of years back when I did the research and changed mine.
I believe that several manufacturers have recommended this change for
their fleets but suspect that the old MIL-H-5606 is just too deeply
ingrained in the FBOs for anyone to stock to the better fluid.
BTW, can the thicker Cleveland disc really fit under the old (original
non pressure recovery) wheel pants?
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 872hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire |
Hi Glen,
Well, I didn't think to try ground looping with the one good brake - it may
not have worked out too well with a nose wheel aircraft - I can just picture
it pitching over in a sharp turn. Perhaps the fact, I had just installed
a new $1500 propeller might have had some influence on the decision process
{:>). .
The brake lines with Teflon lining are standard use brake lines. I have
found that having stainless steel braid around any hose liner material seems
to do a good job of holding the temps down. Not to say it couldn't happen.
My view is the stainless steel Teflon lines are less likely to give you an
immediate and catastrophic failure - I believe that leaks would develop and
you would get some indication (mushy peddle?) of a problem before the leak
got large enough to preclude braking. But, that is just speculation on my
part.
Yes, get that fire extinguisher - that way you will never need it.
Ed
. ----- Original Message -----
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 7:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire
>
> Hi Again, Ed!
>
>>Just had time to
>>get the engine shut down and used the starter to get the prop horizontal
>>before going into a ditch off the side of the runway.
>
> Wow- quick thinking. Sometimes the force is with you. I was going to go
> the Teflon route for the brake line loop to the caliper, but it's been
> suggested that there is a threat of brake temps melting the Teflon in the
> braided line. Does anyone have any hard evidence, numbers, or anecdotal
> info to this effect?
>
>>Did I mention, its smart to carry a fire extinguisher in your cockpit?
>
> Thanks for reminding me to get that on the do list.
>
> glen matejcek
> aerobubba@earthlink.net
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Fw: [SERV] Fwd: RV8A Brake Fire |
On the topic of brake line failure and fires, I am forwarding account of
an incident that happened on a RV-8A back in 2004. Just to show it
happens on the newer models as well as my old RV-6A.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Lenleg@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 7:55 AM
Subject: [SERV] Fwd: RV8A Brake Fire
In a message dated 1/31/2004 9:48:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rgray67968@aol.com writes:
Gang,
Had a brake fire on an RV-8A last weekend. Tidy combination of
operator error and design issues, much of which is specific to the 8A
and/or castering nosewheel, steer-with-the-brakes airplanes in
general.
However, research did turn up a few items perhaps everyone should
know.
The fire started after an overheated caliper leaked fluid on a
hot
disk. The fluid flashed and lit the resin in the fiberglass wheel
pant,
as well as the tire sidewall. The brake worked fine, with only
slightly
higher pedal pressure required even when on fire.
I've posted a photo to the vault (yep, a bystander had a digital
camera). In the photo, I'm holding pedal pressure while shutting
down
for the fire crew. Note the fire on the ground under the pant,
believed
to be fluid and dripping resin. I don't recall any additional pedal
travel.
When something like this happens I get curious. Why did the
seal
leak at some temperature well below a failure temperature for the
rest
of the brake? And why did the fluid catch fire?
Fast forward: It turns out the Cleveland piston seal for the
little 30-9 caliper is an ordinary MS28775-218 nitrile o-ring.
Nitrile's temperature rating is - 65F to +275 F. We found the seal
to
be brittle and flaking when we dismantled the caliper. A caliper
seal
with a 275 F temp limit is below automotive standards, but that's
another story.
As for fluid, Cleveland's tech manual specifies either Mil-H-
5606
or Mil-H-83282 as acceptable. Both are listed in AC-43 and the A&P
texts. Turns out that Mil-H-83282 was created because the military
was
tired of setting it's airplanes on fire. Mil-H-5606 is the standard
red
hydraulic fluid sold by Spruce, Wicks, Chief, etc. It is a petroleum
base, and turns out to have a very low flash point. The Mil-H-83282
is
also red, and compatible with 5606 fluid as well as seals created for
5606. However, it is a synthetic, with much higher flash and burn
points, and is self-extinguishing when removed from the ignition
source.
You can download complete specs for Aeroshell Fluid 41 (Mil-H-
5606)
and Aeroshell Fluid 31 (Mil-H-83282) at:
http://193.113.209.166/aeroshell/aeroshellhydraulicfluids.pdf
Note the flash points of the two fluids. Aeroshell 41 is 104 C,
which is only 219 F. Aeroshell 31 is 237 C, or 458 F.
A flash point of 219 F means that when a Cleveland caliper seal
fails at something above 275, the fluid is already hot enough to
light
when it hits a hot disk and vaporizes inside the pant. Makes for an
interesting combination.
Live and learn. I always assumed standard "mil-spec red brake
fluid" was something special, and I doubt I was alone in this
assumption. It's not. It's just another one of those "always done
it
that way" things prevalent with light airplanes. Note that the Shell
literature declines to even refer to it as brake fluid.
Spruce, etc, doesn't sell Mil-H-83282 fluid, but they should.
I've
already ordered a gallon of Fluid 31 from the local Shell
distributor.
Since the old and new fluids are compatible, switching is as easy as
draining the old, flush with new, refill, and bleed.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire: Plumbing Material |
Ed,
Which type of aluminum tubing were your original brake
lines fabricated from?
I assume that most builders use the crappy soft tubing
that Van's provides with their kits. I can't bring
myself to use this stuff for fuel and brake lines.
In my RV-8, I'm using 5052-0 for all fuel and brake
lines. This stuff has much better strength AND
fatigue properties than the soft tubing that Van's
provides and should be less prone to work hardening &
fatigue failure.
Skylor
RV-8 N808SJ
Under Construction
--- Ed Anderson <eanderson@carolina.rr.com> wrote:
> Hi Linn,
>
> Actually, I was surprised at the location of the
> break in the line, myself. I would have though the
> flare would be the most likely place. All flares
> were made with aircraft quality 37deg flaring tools.
>
>
> But, in my case, a chunk of the line blew out,
> about 1/2 the circumference of the tube and about 1"
> long - simply blew the side wall out of the tube
> back about 3" from the Flare. I'll try to post
> some photos in the photo section of the list.
>
> I suspect that I may have work harden the tube in
> that area by trying to get the loop around the axis
> correct - or it could have possibly been nicked or
> otherwise damaged. However, after thinking about
> it, I decided that having a length of aluminum
> tubing which does not have the best fatigue life
> designed to flex as the calipers moved in and out
> was not the best approach. Yes, I know, hundreds of
> folks have used it with no problem - that not
> withstanding, aluminum tubing fatigues fairly easily
> and I decided to eliminate it in my brake lines.
>
>
> The Cleveland part number for the thicker rotors is
> 164-09900. I purchased an equivalent pair from
> Chief Aircraft made by RAPPCO part number
> RA164-09900. Aircraft Spruce sells the complete
> 199-93 kit which when I checked will cost you
> around $300 for basically 2 rotor discs, some shims,
> the brake linings and some labels to put on your
> wheels.upgrade kit.
>
> I purchased the two rotors from chief for $140 for
> the pair. Be advised you will need a 1/8" spacer to
> fit between the two caliper pieces to accommodate
> the thicker disc - Cleveland wanted $85 EACH for a
> 1/8" thick piece of aluminum with two holes drilled
> in it - the spacer. I made mine out of 6061T6
> aluminum I had laying around. Took me about 45
> minutes as you need to shape the inner side of the
> spacer so it matches the curve of the disc.
>
> Everything will fit inside the old (pre-pressure
> recovery) wheel pants, but you will probably need to
> remake your wheel pant bracket - I made new ones out
> of SS sheet - the old ones might work, but you have
> to space it out further from the wheel due to the
> thicker rotor and then the wheelpant attachment
> screws hole may not line up with the bracket
> nutplates. You will need to make new bracket
> spacers and add 1/8" to the length of those aluminum
> tube spacers that stand the brackets off of the
> wheel.
>
> The brakes feel much firmer, I get no brake fade
> even under heavy braking and I have not smelled any
> indication that the brakes are getting as hot as
> they once did. Theoretically having twice as much
> metal to absorb the heat, the temps should be lower.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Ed
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: linn Walters
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 9:14 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake lines and Hydrauli
> fire
>
>
> Ed Anderson wrote:
>
> After a ruptured aluminum brake line (after 340
> hours of flying) resulted in runway departure, a
> hydraulic fire which charred tire and wheel pant -
> whicht fortunately did not damage the aircraft, I
> went with stainless steel braided brake lines with
> Teflon liners
> Sorry ED. I'm not picking on you!!! Honest!!! :-)
>
> Whgere did the hard line break??? At the flare???
> Not uncommon. Happened to me. My fault. Using
> cheap flaring tool (but an AN flare, not a plumbers
> flare). Also. clamping the tubing down next to the
> caliper hinders it's natural movement as the brake
> pads wear. another problem area. Unfortunately, I
> was aware of the problem (yeah, after I lost a brake
> on my Pitts but no fire or other damage besides
> extreme embarrassment cause by doing pirouettes on
> the runway)
> I also replace the older brake fluid with the
> newer MIL-PRF-83282 D brake fluid which has a much
> higher flash point (around 440F). I then replace
> the brake rotors with discs twice the thickness to
> hold down the temps.
> Thanks for those two tips. I wasn't aware of
> either. Can you give us a part number for the
> thicker rotors???
> Believe me it is a helpless feeling to have your
> brake go to the floor and find you have no effective
> directional control.
> AMEN!
>
> Just had time to get the engine shut down and
> used the starter to get the prop horizontal before
> going into a ditch off the side of the runway.
> Perhaps I should have considered ground looping -
> with the remaining good brake, but the thought did
> not occur until afterwards.
>
> Hmmm. For me, I was mashing both pedals for all I
> was worth ..... and it came as a surprise to me that
> the right one was hitting the firewall!
> Did I mention, its smart to carry a fire
> extinguisher in your cockpit?
> Ya know, I'm rather thick headed (and oblivious to
> strong hints) ...... but even after two fires up
> front .... still don't have one. Both fires were
> due to my stupidity (hope I don't make more mistakes
> like that) and on the ground. Educational
> experiences I call 'em.
> Linn
> again, do not archive.
>
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
> http://www.andersonee.com
>
>
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
> http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles.. |
Thanks! Buckles Sold! Group Buy?
Thanks to those who bought up my two tone gold and nickel, and nickel buckles.
I was surprised at the response, must be some psychological factor about a closeout!
I have gotten more requests for them, so if people are still interested,
e mail me your contact info and I will save the requests and re-contact you
if I get enough interest for a group buy of 6 or so. My brass models are still
for sale on my website. Happy Holidays! Glenn
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Finishing #90623, O-360
Tucson, Arizona
Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles
http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153677#153677
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire: Plumbing Material |
Yes, Skylor
I used whatever VAn sent in the kit - I think 3030 - but not certain. I
know this has worked for hundreds (if not thousands) but, it clearly can
fail (for whatever reason). The 5052 stuff would appear to be better
suited. But, I just found the idea of the flexible stainless steel braided
Teflon lines appealed more than any metal lines - particularly after the
fire.
An perhaps interesting side line is that 2 year previous, I had accidentally
drilled into the brake line on the opposite side and got the SS braided line
to replace them both. I was lazy and only replaced the damaged line with
the SS and left the aluminum tube on the other line - which I had not
procrastinated and had replace it as well {:>)
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Skylor Piper" <skylor4@yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire: Plumbing Material
>
> Ed,
>
> Which type of aluminum tubing were your original brake
> lines fabricated from?
>
> I assume that most builders use the crappy soft tubing
> that Van's provides with their kits. I can't bring
> myself to use this stuff for fuel and brake lines.
>
> In my RV-8, I'm using 5052-0 for all fuel and brake
> lines. This stuff has much better strength AND
> fatigue properties than the soft tubing that Van's
> provides and should be less prone to work hardening &
> fatigue failure.
>
> Skylor
> RV-8 N808SJ
> Under Construction
>
> --- Ed Anderson <eanderson@carolina.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Linn,
>>
>> Actually, I was surprised at the location of the
>> break in the line, myself. I would have though the
>> flare would be the most likely place. All flares
>> were made with aircraft quality 37deg flaring tools.
>>
>>
>> But, in my case, a chunk of the line blew out,
>> about 1/2 the circumference of the tube and about 1"
>> long - simply blew the side wall out of the tube
>> back about 3" from the Flare. I'll try to post
>> some photos in the photo section of the list.
>>
>> I suspect that I may have work harden the tube in
>> that area by trying to get the loop around the axis
>> correct - or it could have possibly been nicked or
>> otherwise damaged. However, after thinking about
>> it, I decided that having a length of aluminum
>> tubing which does not have the best fatigue life
>> designed to flex as the calipers moved in and out
>> was not the best approach. Yes, I know, hundreds of
>> folks have used it with no problem - that not
>> withstanding, aluminum tubing fatigues fairly easily
>> and I decided to eliminate it in my brake lines.
>>
>>
>> The Cleveland part number for the thicker rotors is
>> 164-09900. I purchased an equivalent pair from
>> Chief Aircraft made by RAPPCO part number
>> RA164-09900. Aircraft Spruce sells the complete
>> 199-93 kit which when I checked will cost you
>> around $300 for basically 2 rotor discs, some shims,
>> the brake linings and some labels to put on your
>> wheels.upgrade kit.
>>
>> I purchased the two rotors from chief for $140 for
>> the pair. Be advised you will need a 1/8" spacer to
>> fit between the two caliper pieces to accommodate
>> the thicker disc - Cleveland wanted $85 EACH for a
>> 1/8" thick piece of aluminum with two holes drilled
>> in it - the spacer. I made mine out of 6061T6
>> aluminum I had laying around. Took me about 45
>> minutes as you need to shape the inner side of the
>> spacer so it matches the curve of the disc.
>>
>> Everything will fit inside the old (pre-pressure
>> recovery) wheel pants, but you will probably need to
>> remake your wheel pant bracket - I made new ones out
>> of SS sheet - the old ones might work, but you have
>> to space it out further from the wheel due to the
>> thicker rotor and then the wheelpant attachment
>> screws hole may not line up with the bracket
>> nutplates. You will need to make new bracket
>> spacers and add 1/8" to the length of those aluminum
>> tube spacers that stand the brackets off of the
>> wheel.
>>
>> The brakes feel much firmer, I get no brake fade
>> even under heavy braking and I have not smelled any
>> indication that the brakes are getting as hot as
>> they once did. Theoretically having twice as much
>> metal to absorb the heat, the temps should be lower.
>>
>> Hope this helps
>>
>> Ed
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: linn Walters
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 9:14 PM
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake lines and Hydrauli
>> fire
>>
>>
>> Ed Anderson wrote:
>>
>> After a ruptured aluminum brake line (after 340
>> hours of flying) resulted in runway departure, a
>> hydraulic fire which charred tire and wheel pant -
>> whicht fortunately did not damage the aircraft, I
>> went with stainless steel braided brake lines with
>> Teflon liners
>> Sorry ED. I'm not picking on you!!! Honest!!! :-)
>>
>> Whgere did the hard line break??? At the flare???
>> Not uncommon. Happened to me. My fault. Using
>> cheap flaring tool (but an AN flare, not a plumbers
>> flare). Also. clamping the tubing down next to the
>> caliper hinders it's natural movement as the brake
>> pads wear. another problem area. Unfortunately, I
>> was aware of the problem (yeah, after I lost a brake
>> on my Pitts but no fire or other damage besides
>> extreme embarrassment cause by doing pirouettes on
>> the runway)
>> I also replace the older brake fluid with the
>> newer MIL-PRF-83282 D brake fluid which has a much
>> higher flash point (around 440F). I then replace
>> the brake rotors with discs twice the thickness to
>> hold down the temps.
>> Thanks for those two tips. I wasn't aware of
>> either. Can you give us a part number for the
>> thicker rotors???
>> Believe me it is a helpless feeling to have your
>> brake go to the floor and find you have no effective
>> directional control.
>> AMEN!
>>
>> Just had time to get the engine shut down and
>> used the starter to get the prop horizontal before
>> going into a ditch off the side of the runway.
>> Perhaps I should have considered ground looping -
>> with the remaining good brake, but the thought did
>> not occur until afterwards.
>>
>> Hmmm. For me, I was mashing both pedals for all I
>> was worth ..... and it came as a surprise to me that
>> the right one was hitting the firewall!
>> Did I mention, its smart to carry a fire
>> extinguisher in your cockpit?
>> Ya know, I'm rather thick headed (and oblivious to
>> strong hints) ...... but even after two fires up
>> front .... still don't have one. Both fires were
>> due to my stupidity (hope I don't make more mistakes
>> like that) and on the ground. Educational
>> experiences I call 'em.
>> Linn
>> again, do not archive.
>>
>>
>> Ed
>>
>> Ed Anderson
>> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>> Matthews, NC
>> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>> http://www.andersonee.com
>>
>>
> http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
>> http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | prop bolt length |
I have a Catto 3 blade prop with the recommended Saber prop extension
(same one van's sells). It is delivered with 6" bolts. I need a 1/4"
spacer to get the distance between the 2 spinner bulkheads to match the
spinner and of course there's the 3/8" crush plate, the washers and the
4 5/16" thick prop hub.
When I add up the thickness of *everything* in the stack-up and add to
that the 0.435" by which the threaded portion of the prop extension is
recessed into the prop extension, I compute that only the last 1/2" of
threads on the 6" prop bolts are going to engage the threads in the prop
extension. Seems kind of skinny to me.
On the other hand, I think this is a typical installation. Is this
normal? Is it adequate?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Message 11
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| Subject: | Brake lines and Hydraulic fire |
Ed,
Do you want to sell some of the new mil-spec brake fluid? I
haven't put any into my system yet but its about due. Let me know. I
guess about a quart would do. That should leave me with a small bit of
spare fluid ! ?
Jim Nelson
Message 12
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It appears the timing on my 0-360A1A is off some. Since the points are not
opening at the same time I need to make some adjustment. My flywheel has a
line on it for TDC as well as 25 degrees. Where should the mark for 25 be
aligned on this engine for timing? I had thought it was the split in the
case but apparently that may not be the true.
My right mag points are opening well before the left mag but the left mag
seems pretty well opening with the impulse coupler.
I don't have an engine service manual for this engine, thus I needed to ask.
Thanks
Tim
Message 13
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OK, following up on this question. The left mag points are opening up about
25 degrees later and coincide with the snap of the impulse coupler. This
leads me to believe I need to do something to lock the impulse out in order
to time these together.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 2:36 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A
>
>
> It appears the timing on my 0-360A1A is off some. Since the points are
> not
> opening at the same time I need to make some adjustment. My flywheel has
> a
> line on it for TDC as well as 25 degrees. Where should the mark for 25 be
> aligned on this engine for timing? I had thought it was the split in the
> case but apparently that may not be the true.
>
> My right mag points are opening well before the left mag but the left mag
> seems pretty well opening with the impulse coupler.
>
> I don't have an engine service manual for this engine, thus I needed to
> ask.
> Thanks
> Tim
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Timing 0-360A1A |
If I remember right there are marks both on the front and on the back,
the marks on the back line up with the slit in the case at the top and
the ones on the front line up at a point on the starter. I think!
Someone else let Tim know if this is right.
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my flying RV7A web page:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> It appears the timing on my 0-360A1A is off some. Since the points are not
> opening at the same time I need to make some adjustment. My flywheel has a
> line on it for TDC as well as 25 degrees. Where should the mark for 25 be
> aligned on this engine for timing? I had thought it was the split in the
> case but apparently that may not be the true.
>
> My right mag points are opening well before the left mag but the left mag
> seems pretty well opening with the impulse coupler.
>
> I don't have an engine service manual for this engine, thus I needed to ask.
> Thanks
> Tim
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Timing 0-360A1A |
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>It appears the timing on my 0-360A1A is off some. Since the points are not
>opening at the same time I need to make some adjustment.
>
Appears? How do you know??? did you use a 'buzz box'???
> My flywheel has a
>line on it for TDC as well as 25 degrees. Where should the mark for 25 be
>aligned on this engine for timing? I had thought it was the split in the
>case but apparently that may not be the true.
>
It's been a while since I've done the Pitts, and I 'relearn' every
time. Your flywheel should have marks on the front and back. Here's
where my memory gets fuzzy. I think the marks for the case split are on
the forward side and the marks for the starter (never used these) are on
the back. Get the #1 piston to TDC (where the impulse will click) and
you'll be able to see which is correct. You may be seeing a
'difference' because the impulse will fire at TDC until the engine
starts (or your starter whips it fast enough :-) ) while the non-impulse
will fire 25 BTDC.
>My right mag points are opening well before the left mag but the left mag
>seems pretty well opening with the impulse coupler.
>
As it should be. After the impulse clicks, pull the prop back past the
25 BTDC mark a little, and then bring the prop slowly up to and past the
mark and you should see both mags opening at the same time.
>I don't have an engine service manual for this engine, thus I needed to ask.
>
You really should get one ..... actually both the assembly and parts
manuals. The parts manual will cover your specific engine (A1A) so be
sure to specify and get the correct one.
Linn
do not archive
>Thanks
>Tim
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Timing 0-360A1A |
Turn the prop until the impulse coupler snaps then turn it back past
the timing mark then forward to time. On my engine the timing mark
lines up with a hole in the starter housing at the proper timing point.
Larry Pardue
On Dec 22, 2007, at 2:24 PM, Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> OK, following up on this question. The left mag points are opening
> up about
> 25 degrees later and coincide with the snap of the impulse
> coupler. This
> leads me to believe I need to do something to lock the impulse out
> in order
> to time these together.
>
> Any help appreciated.
> Thanks
> Tim
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
>> Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 2:36 PM
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A
>>
>>
>> It appears the timing on my 0-360A1A is off some. Since the
>> points are
>> not
>> opening at the same time I need to make some adjustment. My
>> flywheel has
>> a
>> line on it for TDC as well as 25 degrees. Where should the mark
>> for 25 be
>> aligned on this engine for timing? I had thought it was the split
>> in the
>> case but apparently that may not be the true.
>>
>> My right mag points are opening well before the left mag but the
>> left mag
>> seems pretty well opening with the impulse coupler.
>>
>> I don't have an engine service manual for this engine, thus I
>> needed to
>> ask.
>> Thanks
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles.. |
Got mine in the mail today.
Looks good!!
Dave Nellis
--- gbrasch <gbrasch@earthlink.net> wrote:
> <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>
> Thanks! Buckles Sold! Group Buy?
> Thanks to those who bought up my two tone gold and
> nickel, and nickel buckles. I was surprised at the
> response, must be some psychological factor about a
> closeout! I have gotten more requests for them, so
> if people are still interested, e mail me your
> contact info and I will save the requests and
> re-contact you if I get enough interest for a group
> buy of 6 or so. My brass models are still for sale
> on my website. Happy Holidays! Glenn
>
> --------
> Glenn Brasch
> RV-9A Finishing #90623, O-360
> Tucson, Arizona
>
> Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles
> http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153677#153677
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> Admin.
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Timing 0-360A1A |
Mine too .... I usually put a small drill bit in the hole on the starter to align
with the mark on the flywheel.?
Len Leggette
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
Sent: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 5:02 pm
Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A
?
Turn the prop until the impulse coupler snaps then turn it back past the timing
mark then forward to time. On my engine the timing mark lines up with a hole
in the starter housing at the proper timing point.?
?
Larry Pardue?
?
On Dec 22, 2007, at 2:24 PM, Tim Bryan wrote:?
?
>?
> OK, following up on this question. The left mag points are opening > up about?
> 25 degrees later and coincide with the snap of the impulse > coupler. This?
> leads me to believe I need to do something to lock the impulse out > in order?
> to time these together.?
>?
> Any help appreciated.?
> Thanks?
> Tim?
>?
>> -----Original Message-----?
>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-?
>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan?
>> Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 2:36 PM?
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com?
>> Subject: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A?
>>?
>>?
>> It appears the timing on my 0-360A1A is off some. Since the >> points are?
>> not?
>> opening at the same time I need to make some adjustment. My >> flywheel has?
>> a?
>> line on it for TDC as well as 25 degrees. Where should the mark >> for 25 be?
>> aligned on this engine for timing? I had thought it was the split >> in the?
>> case but apparently that may not be the true.?
>>?
>> My right mag points are opening well before the left mag but the >> left mag?
>> seems pretty well opening with the impulse coupler.?
>>?
>> I don't have an engine service manual for this engine, thus I >> needed to?
>> ask.?
>> Thanks?
>> Tim?
>>?
>>?
>>?
>>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
?
?
?
________________________________________________________________________
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles.. |
Glad you like it, Dave! Glenn
truflite(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Got mine in the mail today.
>
> Looks good!!
>
> Dave Nellis
>
> --- gbrasch wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks! Buckles Sold! Group Buy?
> > Thanks to those who bought up my two tone gold and
> > nickel, and nickel buckles. I was surprised at the
> > response, must be some psychological factor about a
> > closeout! I have gotten more requests for them, so
> > if people are still interested, e mail me your
> > contact info and I will save the requests and
> > re-contact you if I get enough interest for a group
> > buy of 6 or so. My brass models are still for sale
> > on my website. Happy Holidays! Glenn
> >
> > --------
> >
> >
> > Glenn Brasch
> > RV-9A Finishing #90623, O-360
> > Tucson, Arizona
> >
> > Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles
> > http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153677#153677
> >
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Click on
> > about
> > Admin.
> >
> > browse
> > Un/Subscription,
> > FAQ,
> >
> > Forums!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Looking for last minute shopping deals?
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Finishing #90623, O-360
Tucson, Arizona
Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles
http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153728#153728
Message 20
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| Subject: | Need RV-4 Manual Page |
Anyone have an RV-4 assembly manual? If so, any chance of getting a scan/PDF of
the section on the construction of the rudder? Van's will be closed for a while
and I was hoping to get my new rudder constructed over the holidays.
Thanks a million for anyone who can help!
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Arizona
do not archive
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Message 21
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| Subject: | Canopy "Big Cut" Question |
Ok gang ... my canopy trimming is going quite well. And I am getting
close (already there?) to being ready for the "big cut". I'm building
an RV-7 with a tip-up canopy, and I intend to glue with SikaFlex.
At this point I have the rough-trimming done all the way around. The
front of the canopy comes to the spot that the instructions suggest
is the "right place" (though I know this can easily vary a bit from
installation to installation). I have the "do not cut" line drawn
along the back of the canopy matching the curve of the rear fuselage
skin. I've trimmed to within 2 inches of that "do not cut" line. I
have also trimmed away the bits of plexiglas with the molding lines
from the sides, but am clearly not done trimming to an exact fit (nor
should I be, according to the instructions), at least on the sides
and along the back. The only place I'm trying to get the trim _exact_
is along the front. I tell all this to paint a picture of exactly where
I am in the canopy trimming/fitting process.
With the situation as described above, and with the sides of the canopy
being pressed firmly against the side of the fuselage, I am showing
roughly a 1-inch gap between the roll bar and the inside of the canopy.
Gus at Van's suggested that getting it down to a half-inch was ideal,
but I've heard others say they did the "big cut" with a as much as a
whopping 2-inch gap there.
So ... my question is, should I continue to trim to reduce the gap or
should I just DO it? If I want to reduce the gap the only option is to
trim from the front, I believe. I figure taking off a 1/4 inch at a
time would be the way to go. True? That would be tedious ... but ... at
this point I take "tedious" as a given.
Suggestions? Insights? Comments? Any and all are welcome.
-- Dwight
RV-7, Tip-up, XP-360, API fuel injection, Hartzell BA prop
(The slowest builder in the east .... )
do not archive
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles.. |
In a message dated 12/22/2007 10:13:43 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
gbrasch@earthlink.net writes:
Thanks to those who bought up my two tone gold and nickel, and nickel
buckles. I was surprised at the response, must be some psychological factor about
a
closeout! I have gotten more requests for them, so if people are still
interested, e mail me your contact info and I will save the requests and
re-contact you if I get enough interest for a group buy of 6 or so. My brass models
are still for sale on my website. Happy Holidays!
==============================================================
I didn't know about them so it is nice to hear a sales pitch once in awhile.
Got my two toner today and it is quite nice. Thanks a million, Glenn.
I'll be wearing it with my new A-2 jacket and be the best looking airport rat
on
the flight line.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 872hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
Message 23
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| Subject: | Canopy "Big Cut" Question |
I just did my 6A tip-up with Sika and I'm not a big fan of the "make the big
cut and let the canopy settle" line of thinking. I had made 1/4" spacers
and set them on the bow and glare shield and found that I ended up with
about a 1" gap between the canopy and spacers. Because of the angle of the
front of the canopy, trimming the front 1" up would also move the front edge
back about the same amount. However, when I moved the canopy forward an
inch, I found that the gap had lessened and so I kept cutting the front
until I reduced the gap. Then I trimmed the sides until they fit into the
channels, and finally I marked and trimmed the aft curves after drilling the
canopy to the aft skin and channels and made sure the gaps for gluing were
still appropriate.
Before you cut any more from the aft area, you should still have enough room
to improve your fit. I varied the gluing process because I want that "Big
Cut line to be neat and also the overall canopy line to flow. So I masked
the rollover structure and glued the canopy to the canopy frame with the
frame in place on the fuselage. I crawled in from behind the baggage area
(that top skin is not in place yet, while I do some antenna wiring), and did
the fillets around the glare shield and bow and then crawled back out and
clecoed the aft skin on to position the rear of the canopy and I also did
the outside fillet on the glare shield. After it had set a week, I removed
the aft skin and the whole canopy lifted with the frame just fine.
It's been too cold here to continue, so I've been working on electrical
stuff. I've masked the rollover again, this time to expose where I want the
Sika to adhere. I've also masked the inside of the canopy in the same area.
My next step will be to glue the canopy to the rollover (I can reach in from
the aft to make the fillet on the back side of the bow). I'll cleco the aft
skin on again to set the position of the canopy. After it sets, I'll make
the big cut (I used red electrical tape to mask the inside of the canopy, so
it will be easy to see where to cut). Any Sika that has oozed forward can
be trimmed down to the rollover structure with a razor blade, and the
masking will keep the ooze from sticking to either the canopy or the
rollover.
To the question of the gap you have, I don't see how making the cut and
letting the pieces drop down to the canopy will fail to alter the entire
geometry of the canopy. Try a little more patience and get a better fit to
begin with.
Pat Kelley - RV-6A - routing antenna cables in a freezing hangar...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dwight Frye
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 7:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question
Ok gang ... my canopy trimming is going quite well. And I am getting
close (already there?) to being ready for the "big cut". I'm building
an RV-7 with a tip-up canopy, and I intend to glue with SikaFlex.
At this point I have the rough-trimming done all the way around. The
front of the canopy comes to the spot that the instructions suggest
is the "right place" (though I know this can easily vary a bit from
installation to installation). I have the "do not cut" line drawn
along the back of the canopy matching the curve of the rear fuselage
skin. I've trimmed to within 2 inches of that "do not cut" line. I
have also trimmed away the bits of plexiglas with the molding lines
from the sides, but am clearly not done trimming to an exact fit (nor
should I be, according to the instructions), at least on the sides
and along the back. The only place I'm trying to get the trim _exact_
is along the front. I tell all this to paint a picture of exactly where
I am in the canopy trimming/fitting process.
With the situation as described above, and with the sides of the canopy
being pressed firmly against the side of the fuselage, I am showing
roughly a 1-inch gap between the roll bar and the inside of the canopy.
Gus at Van's suggested that getting it down to a half-inch was ideal,
but I've heard others say they did the "big cut" with a as much as a
whopping 2-inch gap there.
So ... my question is, should I continue to trim to reduce the gap or
should I just DO it? If I want to reduce the gap the only option is to
trim from the front, I believe. I figure taking off a 1/4 inch at a
time would be the way to go. True? That would be tedious ... but ... at
this point I take "tedious" as a given.
Suggestions? Insights? Comments? Any and all are welcome.
-- Dwight
RV-7, Tip-up, XP-360, API fuel injection, Hartzell BA prop
(The slowest builder in the east .... )
Message 24
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Hi Linn and others,
Yes I have a buzz box on there and after reading the comments I have located
the hole in the starter. The right (non-impulse) mag is opening in the
right spot with the 25 degree line at the little hole in the starter. The
left mag however is opening at zero when the impulse fires so I will recheck
in the morning to see if I can move the prop back a little after it fires
and see if they are opening the same. It seems I did this inadvertently
once or twice and it was opening at the 20 degree mark. I will recheck this
to see. If the left mag is firing at 20 degrees can I just move it so when
I use the procedure it will open at the same time as the right mag?
Thanks for the help, and I agree I think I should obtain a good service
manual for the A1A.
Thanks for the help.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
> Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 3:49 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A
>
>
> Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> >
> >It appears the timing on my 0-360A1A is off some. Since the points are
> not
> >opening at the same time I need to make some adjustment.
> >
> Appears? How do you know??? did you use a 'buzz box'???
>
> > My flywheel has a
> >line on it for TDC as well as 25 degrees. Where should the mark for 25
> be
> >aligned on this engine for timing? I had thought it was the split in the
> >case but apparently that may not be the true.
> >
> It's been a while since I've done the Pitts, and I 'relearn' every
> time. Your flywheel should have marks on the front and back. Here's
> where my memory gets fuzzy. I think the marks for the case split are on
> the forward side and the marks for the starter (never used these) are on
> the back. Get the #1 piston to TDC (where the impulse will click) and
> you'll be able to see which is correct. You may be seeing a
> 'difference' because the impulse will fire at TDC until the engine
> starts (or your starter whips it fast enough :-) ) while the non-impulse
> will fire 25 BTDC.
>
> >My right mag points are opening well before the left mag but the left mag
> >seems pretty well opening with the impulse coupler.
> >
> As it should be. After the impulse clicks, pull the prop back past the
> 25 BTDC mark a little, and then bring the prop slowly up to and past the
> mark and you should see both mags opening at the same time.
>
> >I don't have an engine service manual for this engine, thus I needed to
> ask.
> >
> You really should get one ..... actually both the assembly and parts
> manuals. The parts manual will cover your specific engine (A1A) so be
> sure to specify and get the correct one.
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> >Thanks
> >Tim
> >
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Timing 0-360A1A |
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>Hi Linn and others,
>
>Yes I have a buzz box on there and after reading the comments I have located
>the hole in the starter. The right (non-impulse) mag is opening in the
>right spot with the 25 degree line at the little hole in the starter. The
>left mag however is opening at zero when the impulse fires so I will recheck
>in the morning to see if I can move the prop back a little after it fires
>and see if they are opening the same. It seems I did this inadvertently
>once or twice and it was opening at the 20 degree mark. I will recheck this
>to see. If the left mag is firing at 20 degrees can I just move it so when
>I use the procedure it will open at the same time as the right mag?
>
Wellll, maybe. If the mag is off by 20 degrees, I doubt that you'll be
able to rotate the mag far enough to get it back in time. It may be off
one tooth which means you'll have to pull the mag out, rotate it (in the
right direction!!!) and then re-insert it one tooth from the original
position. The mag should be in time somewhere close to the center of the
adjustment range. Take your time and repeat the process a few times,
making sure that you trip the impulse, move the prop backwards past the
mark but not far enough for the impulse to engage again, and then pull
the prop to approach the timing marks. This will take out any lash in
the mag drive train.
Linn
do not archive
>
>Thanks for the help, and I agree I think I should obtain a good service
>manual for the A1A.
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>
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