Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:56 AM - Re: Hydraulic lines - thread sealant (Emond)
2. 05:13 AM - Re: Re: Hydraulic lines - thread sealant (Dale Ensing)
3. 06:20 AM - Fw: Canopy "Big Cut" Question (Trevor)
4. 09:05 AM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (Ron Lee)
5. 09:40 AM - Any builders in the Covington, GA area? (Thilo Kind)
6. 11:55 AM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (Dana Overall)
7. 12:02 PM - Canopy "Big Cut" Question (James H Nelson)
8. 12:02 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (Tim Bryan)
9. 12:16 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (Tim Bryan)
10. 01:04 PM - Re: Canopy "Big Cut" Question (Doug Weiler)
11. 01:15 PM - Re: Canopy "Big Cut" Question (Scott)
12. 01:24 PM - Re: Canopy "Big Cut" Question (Patrick Kelley)
13. 01:26 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (linn Walters)
14. 01:31 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (linn Walters)
15. 02:58 PM - [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
16. 04:22 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (Tim Bryan)
17. 04:26 PM - Brakeline Failure Photos [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Ed Anderson)
18. 04:53 PM - Re: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (linn Walters)
19. 05:24 PM - Re: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Ed Anderson)
20. 07:39 PM - Re: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (John W. Cox)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic lines - thread sealant |
I would appreciate suggestions to cure the following.
I have a very slight weep on the joint where the standard Vans nylon brake
line enters into the aluminum master cylinder fitting.
Dave Emond
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic lines - thread sealant |
Dave,
You may need to give the nylon fitting another turn into the aluminum master
cylinder. If you are like me...I was reluctant to give the nylon another
turn when it didn't clock right into the proper position..so the threaded
connection was not really tight. I then fought leaky connections for a year
until I finally decided I had to give it another turn and risk stripping the
nylon threads. I just did another one last week on one of the pedal
cylinder. I turned it about 300 dergrees. The threads didn't strip and the
leak appears to be gone.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emond" <d_emond@mweb.co.za>
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 3:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Hydraulic lines - thread sealant
>
> I would appreciate suggestions to cure the following.
>
> I have a very slight weep on the joint where the standard Vans nylon brake
> line enters into the aluminum master cylinder fitting.
>
>
> Dave Emond
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Canopy "Big Cut" Question |
I glued my entire canopy on without any hole being drilled in the
plexiglass. some points to watch out for are:
1. Get the gap down to 1/8 -1/4 above the roll bar - the cut will then
line up with the roll bar. Any larger gap will cause a "departure" with the
two halves as the canopy "sinks" into position.
2. Remember that as you trim the front you will constantly have to move
the canopy forward which also closes the gap at the roll bar due to the
sloping of the canopy.
3. Leave a 1/4 " gap at the front for the Sikaflex to bond but no gap at
the aft end - you'll see why later
4. You will need to put spacers on top of the roll bar 1/8" min for the
Sika bond. There are a couple of ways to set the cut gap. Butt them up
like Van's says, trimming so as to get a nice even line and then either fix
in this way or, as I did, open the gap to 1/8' and fill with Sika, using
release agents on the tip up part. The Sika that squeezes out can be cut
and sanded down, when set, to make a nice air tight and streamlined seal.
Remember to raise the tip up side by means of spacers as well so that the
halves meet at the same level. To hold in place while setting I used straps
going right around the fuse.
5. Don't try and do all the gluing at once. In fact it is far easier to
do sections at a time and then come back to fill in. The Sika bonds well to
set Sika.
6. Use electrical tape to mask off areas you dont want glue on. Don't use
masking tape as it will stay under the Sika when you try and pull it off.
7. The Sika skins over quite quickly. If you haven't smoothed it by the
second or third pass then leave it, let it dry and cut away and try again
later.
8. Very important to use the correct Sika Primers and to follow the
instructions.
9. If you want to cover the glare shield with Leather/vinal then you need
to think about putting it in place and masking it about 1/4' from the plexi
before laying a bead inside to give it a nice finished look .
10. To glue the front of the canopy, I filled the gap with dollops of Sika
and then built up layers on the outside, shaping as I went to form a sloping
filler ( used an old credit card) I was going to sand and leave the Sika as
the final fairing but decided against as the inevitable someone would as
sure as hell come and stick his fingernail in it just to see how hard it
sets! I fibreglassed over the Sika - easy to do as it is already shaped and
it bonds well to the Sika without any primer
11. Remember to roughen the plexi where you want the Sika to bond (100
grit works well)
For the sides I drilled five of the fairing attach holes (only thro the
frame - fairing will be match drilled later) in order to hold scrap 1/4" bar
stock clecoed to the frame and overlapping the plexi in order to keep the
plexi in place while the Sika set. Remember to mask off the plexi at frame
height as the glue will ooze out. Not necessary to have a gap as your
adhesion for strength will come from the fillet you place in the recess of
the frame and the bottom of the plexi, before closing with the alu fairing
and backdrilling the five holes you drilled previously.
The aft canopy you do by cutting the overlap to +/- 1", roughen up, mask
off, apply Sika and have some broomsticks and foam handy so that you can
wedge the plexi up nice and tight against the rear skin. Let set, reapply
the masking on the inside, so as to have a 1/4" gap from the plexi and then
apply your fillet to give a nice strong and finishing edge. You should get
a nice even and almost flush fit to the aft skin. Use some tank sealant
along the outside to really give it a smooth transition.
I have not covered all the nitty bits as it would take all day to read but
if you would like any further info I'll be glad to pass it on or refer you
to fellow RV-Sika Stickers here in South Africa.
Trevor Davis: RV-7 tip up also building -7 slider with Sika
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dwight Frye" <dwight@openweave.org>
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 4:48 AM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question
>
> Ok gang ... my canopy trimming is going quite well. And I am getting
> close (already there?) to being ready for the "big cut". I'm building
> an RV-7 with a tip-up canopy, and I intend to glue with SikaFlex.
>
> At this point I have the rough-trimming done all the way around. The
> front of the canopy comes to the spot that the instructions suggest
> is the "right place" (though I know this can easily vary a bit from
> installation to installation). I have the "do not cut" line drawn
> along the back of the canopy matching the curve of the rear fuselage
> skin. I've trimmed to within 2 inches of that "do not cut" line. I
> have also trimmed away the bits of plexiglas with the molding lines
> from the sides, but am clearly not done trimming to an exact fit (nor
> should I be, according to the instructions), at least on the sides
> and along the back. The only place I'm trying to get the trim _exact_
> is along the front. I tell all this to paint a picture of exactly where
> I am in the canopy trimming/fitting process.
>
> With the situation as described above, and with the sides of the canopy
> being pressed firmly against the side of the fuselage, I am showing
> roughly a 1-inch gap between the roll bar and the inside of the canopy.
> Gus at Van's suggested that getting it down to a half-inch was ideal,
> but I've heard others say they did the "big cut" with a as much as a
> whopping 2-inch gap there.
>
> So ... my question is, should I continue to trim to reduce the gap or
> should I just DO it? If I want to reduce the gap the only option is to
> trim from the front, I believe. I figure taking off a 1/4 inch at a
> time would be the way to go. True? That would be tedious ... but ... at
> this point I take "tedious" as a given.
>
> Suggestions? Insights? Comments? Any and all are welcome.
>
> -- Dwight
> RV-7, Tip-up, XP-360, API fuel injection, Hartzell BA prop
> (The slowest builder in the east .... )
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Timing 0-360A1A |
Learning on your own is admirable but this may be a case where
hiring an A&P to show you how to do it may be in your best interest.
Ron Lee
Message 5
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| Subject: | Any builders in the Covington, GA area? |
Hi folks,
I'm currently visiting a friend in Covington, GA - will stay here until the 5th.
Are the any builders in the area - preferably RV8A builders - that would like
to show me their project? I just delivery of an RV 8A kit.
Thanks
Thilo
--
GMX FreeMail: 1 GB Postfach, 5 E-Mail-Adressen, 10 Free SMS.
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Message 6
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Tim, I think you will find good reading here:
http://www.sacskyranch.com/timingbendixslick.htm
http://www.sacskyranch.com/faqslickmagneto.htm
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com
_________________________________________________________________
The best games are on Xbox 360. Click here for a special offer on an Xbox
360 Console.
http://www.xbox.com/en-US/hardware/wheretobuy/
Message 7
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| Subject: | Canopy "Big Cut" Question |
Dwight,
I did the skia flex on my canopy. Make sure you have the spacers
in place that will keep the canopy up away from the metal structures that
you will glue to. This will require the canopy to be "longer" on the
sides to make up for the raising of the canopy. I did the slider and
"forgot" about the difference. Needless to say, I had to make the side
skins again to make up for the taller canopy. I had cut to fit and then
went oops! I also had to make my rear canopy fairing from glass as the
aluminum would not work as the canopy was taller back there. It worked
out ok and I'm happy with the fit. The same goes for the windscreen in
the front. I used about a 3/8" spacer to let the adhesive work properly.
I did bolt the sides thru the canopy to the frame. Those are the only
holes in my canopy.
Jim Nelson
RV9-A
Message 8
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With the help, I think I got it all figured out. Results:
Data plate indicates timing is 25 BTDC.
The left mag with impulse points open exactly at 25 BTDC
The impulse fires exactly at TDC
The right mag points open at the valley before the timing mark indicating
they open about 1.5 degrees early. According to all indication I have found
if it is within 2 degrees it is acceptable.
I guess I am concluding the timing is OK. And the bonus is I understand it
again as I had done this before but several years ago. I just had forgotten
how to go through this process.
Thanks to all, happy building
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
> Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 9:21 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A
>
>
> Learning on your own is admirable but this may be a case where
> hiring an A&P to show you how to do it may be in your best interest.
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
>
Message 9
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One more question. Does moving the mag to time it also move the point where
the impulse fires? It seems to be right on 0 where it needs to be.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
> Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 12:27 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A
>
>
> Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> >
> >Hi Linn and others,
> >
> >Yes I have a buzz box on there and after reading the comments I have
> located
> >the hole in the starter. The right (non-impulse) mag is opening in the
> >right spot with the 25 degree line at the little hole in the starter.
> The
> >left mag however is opening at zero when the impulse fires so I will
> recheck
> >in the morning to see if I can move the prop back a little after it fires
> >and see if they are opening the same. It seems I did this inadvertently
> >once or twice and it was opening at the 20 degree mark. I will recheck
> this
> >to see. If the left mag is firing at 20 degrees can I just move it so
> when
> >I use the procedure it will open at the same time as the right mag?
> >
> Wellll, maybe. If the mag is off by 20 degrees, I doubt that you'll be
> able to rotate the mag far enough to get it back in time. It may be off
> one tooth which means you'll have to pull the mag out, rotate it (in the
> right direction!!!) and then re-insert it one tooth from the original
> position. The mag should be in time somewhere close to the center of the
> adjustment range. Take your time and repeat the process a few times,
> making sure that you trip the impulse, move the prop backwards past the
> mark but not far enough for the impulse to engage again, and then pull
> the prop to approach the timing marks. This will take out any lash in
> the mag drive train.
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> >
> >Thanks for the help, and I agree I think I should obtain a good service
> >manual for the A1A.
> >
> >Thanks for the help.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy "Big Cut" Question |
Hmm.. thus you have more headroom in the airplane. How much did you think
you added? One of our local RV-9A folks used this technique and it never
occurred to me that you would be increasing headroom. I have just started
an RV-7 and may consider the sikaflex method when the time comes.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, 450 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim@juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 10:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question
>
> Dwight,
> I did the skia flex on my canopy. Make sure you have the spacers
> in place that will keep the canopy up away from the metal structures that
> you will glue to. This will require the canopy to be "longer" on the
> sides to make up for the raising of the canopy. I did the slider and
> "forgot" about the difference. Needless to say, I had to make the side
> skins again to make up for the taller canopy. I had cut to fit and then
> went oops! I also had to make my rear canopy fairing from glass as the
> aluminum would not work as the canopy was taller back there. It worked
> out ok and I'm happy with the fit. The same goes for the windscreen in
> the front. I used about a 3/8" spacer to let the adhesive work properly.
> I did bolt the sides thru the canopy to the frame. Those are the only
> holes in my canopy.
>
>
> Jim Nelson
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy "Big Cut" Question |
Masochist! ;)
do not archive
Scott (Bloomer, WI(
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Doug Weiler wrote:
> I have just started an RV-7 ...
>
> Doug Weiler
> RV-4, 450 hours
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Canopy "Big Cut" Question |
He added 3/8". That's the recommended spacing. It may make the difference
between wearing a cap or not, but it's not huge.
Pat Kelley - RV-6A - Hoping Santa brings me an engine...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Weiler
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question
Hmm.. thus you have more headroom in the airplane. How much did you think
you added? One of our local RV-9A folks used this technique and it never
occurred to me that you would be increasing headroom. I have just started
an RV-7 and may consider the sikaflex method when the time comes.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, 450 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim@juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 10:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question
>
> Dwight,
> I did the skia flex on my canopy. Make sure you have the spacers
> in place that will keep the canopy up away from the metal structures that
> you will glue to. This will require the canopy to be "longer" on the
> sides to make up for the raising of the canopy. I did the slider and
> "forgot" about the difference. Needless to say, I had to make the side
> skins again to make up for the taller canopy. I had cut to fit and then
> went oops! I also had to make my rear canopy fairing from glass as the
> aluminum would not work as the canopy was taller back there. It worked
> out ok and I'm happy with the fit. The same goes for the windscreen in
> the front. I used about a 3/8" spacer to let the adhesive work properly.
> I did bolt the sides thru the canopy to the frame. Those are the only
> holes in my canopy.
>
>
> Jim Nelson
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Timing 0-360A1A |
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>One more question. Does moving the mag to time it also move the point where
>the impulse fires?
>
Yes.
> It seems to be right on 0 where it needs to be.
>
Then one of two things is happening ..... either the impulse is firing
(either earlier or later) than the 25 dbtdc ...... or the right mag
isn't timed correctly since there seems to be some difference. What you
want is for both mags (with the impulse tripped) to fire at 25 BTDC
...... and let the impulse difference go by the wayside. If it's close,
it'll do it's job.
How much time on the mags??? Recommended 'overhaul' is 500 hours, but I
know of few folks that follow that. Most owners wait 'till there's some
degradation or complete failure to do anything. The points do wear and
the e-gap will change over time, not to mention coil and cap changes as
they age. The first time I had my mags done, the improvement was
astonishing. I could no longer start on both mags (no key start)
because the sky-tek starter spins the engine so well the non-impulse
would fire and kick back.
Linn
do not archive
>Tim
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Timing 0-360A1A |
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>With the help, I think I got it all figured out. Results:
>
>Data plate indicates timing is 25 BTDC.
>The left mag with impulse points open exactly at 25 BTDC
>The impulse fires exactly at TDC
>The right mag points open at the valley before the timing mark indicating
>they open about 1.5 degrees early. According to all indication I have found
>if it is within 2 degrees it is acceptable.
>
Don't take offense, because I don't know your personally, but I think
that's sloppy. You have everything you need to take the time to reset
the right mag so it fires at 25 BTDC like the keft one.
>I guess I am concluding the timing is OK. And the bonus is I understand it
>again as I had done this before but several years ago. I just had forgotten
>how to go through this process.
>
Take your time and do it right ...... get 'em dead nuts on. You're
wasting HP and fuel ...... maybe emmeasureable, but it's there.
Linn
do not archive
>
>Thanks to all, happy building
>Tim
>
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>>server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
>>Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 9:21 AM
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A
>>
>>
>>Learning on your own is admirable but this may be a case where
>>hiring an A&P to show you how to do it may be in your best interest.
>>
>>Ron Lee
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Edward Anderson <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Lists: RV-List
Subject: Brake Line Failure
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/eanderson@carolina.rr.com.12.23.2007/index.html
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
Message 16
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Hi Linn,
No offense taken. I simply concluded it was OK because the documentation I
found said it was acceptable. I already adjusted it to be right together
earlier because I saw no reason not to. Anyway I am happier with it done.
Thanks for your help and insight.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A
Tim Bryan wrote:
<n616tb@btsapps.com>
With the help, I think I got it all figured out. Results:
Data plate indicates timing is 25 BTDC.
The left mag with impulse points open exactly at 25 BTDC
The impulse fires exactly at TDC
The right mag points open at the valley before the timing mark indicating
they open about 1.5 degrees early. According to all indication I have found
if it is within 2 degrees it is acceptable.
Don't take offense, because I don't know your personally, but I think that's
sloppy. You have everything you need to take the time to reset the right
mag so it fires at 25 BTDC like the keft one.
I guess I am concluding the timing is OK. And the bonus is I understand it
again as I had done this before but several years ago. I just had forgotten
how to go through this process.
Take your time and do it right ...... get 'em dead nuts on. You're wasting
HP and fuel ...... maybe emmeasureable, but it's there.
Linn
do not archive
Thanks to all, happy building
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A
<ronlee@pcisys.net>
Learning on your own is admirable but this may be a case where
hiring an A&P to show you how to do it may be in your best interest.
Ron Lee
Message 17
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| Subject: | Brakeline Failure Photos [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List |
Photo Share Available!
For those interested, there are two photos of my brake line fracture and
fire at the below Matronics link. One shows the charred tire and wheel pant
and the other shows the broken brake line - with a chunk of the side of the
tube clearly blown out.
Ed
Ed Anderson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Email List Photo Shares" <pictures@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 5:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
> <pictures@matronics.com>
>
>
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Edward Anderson <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Lists: RV-List
>
> Subject: Brake Line Failure
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/eanderson@carolina.rr.com.12.23.2007/index.html
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> o Main Photo Share Index
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
> o Submitting a Photo Share
>
> If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
> following information along with your email message and files:
>
> 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
> 2) Your Full Name:
> 3) Your Email Address:
> 4) One line Subject description:
> 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
> 6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
>
> Email the information above and your files and photos to:
>
> pictures@matronics.com
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Ed, those pictures are nasty!!! Glad the fire was contained there!
I've never seen tubing break like that, but then my 'sample' is
relatively small. Usually breaks occur radially around the tubing, not
linearly along the tube. My best guess would be a flaw in the tubing
.... the jagged edge indicates it was brittle (or so I think). A more
interesting photo would be after the powder was cleaned up. Don't know
what dry chemical that is, but dry chemical of a few years ago was
terribly corrosive to aluminum, so you may want to inspect fairly often
'till you are sure there's no problem.
My hangar lease requires a dry chemical extinguisher .... and it's a
real dilemma for me to fight the fire or let it burn ..... either way,
down the road the plane would need extensive repairs due to the
corrosion and may become unairworthy anyway.
Linn
do not archive
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Hi Linn,
Yes, the powder was all cleaned up as you are correct that of a few years
ago was reportedly very corrosive to aluminum.
I also thought the break clearly indicated either side wall fatigue or
material defect. Its possible I may have work harden the tube while trying
to bend it in that loop around the axis.
The first "fire fighting" liquid was the remnants of a jug of antifreeze my
quick acting nephew threw on the burning wheels pant. Fortunately, the fire
did not heat it to its flashpoint - but it did suppress the external fire on
the wheel pant, long enough for my nephew to hop in his car drive to the
fuel pump area and return with their extinguisher. I had resigned my self
to the loss of the aircraft and was moving people away to a safe distance -
but fortunately the tire had not started to burn (although badly charred -
it never lost air) and a blast from the extinguisher under the wheel pant
put it out. None of the power was sprayed on the wing although clearly some
probably landed there.
You can still see the brake fluid leaking out by the tire on the ground.
My nephew was actually taking a video of my returned from the aborted take
off and caught the moment when the brake line completely failed and blew out
on the hot rotor and ignited. The fire ball rose up above the canopy - I
imagine it was when I made the last depression of the brake peddle. I did
not know I was on fire until stopped in the ditch and I popped my canopy.
I smelled the burning resin and immediately knew what it mean - and a
second later my nephew stuck his head in and confirmed it. He yelled "Uncle
Ed...Your' on FIRE!". It did nothing to lessen my speed of exit {:>)
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 7:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
>
> Ed, those pictures are nasty!!! Glad the fire was contained there! I've
> never seen tubing break like that, but then my 'sample' is relatively
> small. Usually breaks occur radially around the tubing, not linearly
> along the tube. My best guess would be a flaw in the tubing .... the
> jagged edge indicates it was brittle (or so I think). A more interesting
> photo would be after the powder was cleaned up. Don't know what dry
> chemical that is, but dry chemical of a few years ago was terribly
> corrosive to aluminum, so you may want to inspect fairly often 'till you
> are sure there's no problem.
>
> My hangar lease requires a dry chemical extinguisher .... and it's a real
> dilemma for me to fight the fire or let it burn ..... either way, down the
> road the plane would need extensive repairs due to the corrosion and may
> become unairworthy anyway.
> Linn
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
On my hangar, the dry chemical or CO2 was for purposes of reducing
damage to the structure. The Lessor and State Fire Marshall could care
less about my aircraft.
Fire Annunciation and then Fire Suppression are two great topics. In
Oregon, there must be a water based hydrant within 250 feet of the
structure. Seems the Oregon Department of Aviation had been building
non compliant structures for years.
It could create a whole new thread.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
Ed, those pictures are nasty!!! Glad the fire was contained there!
I've never seen tubing break like that, but then my 'sample' is
relatively small. Usually breaks occur radially around the tubing, not
linearly along the tube. My best guess would be a flaw in the tubing
.... the jagged edge indicates it was brittle (or so I think). A more
interesting photo would be after the powder was cleaned up. Don't know
what dry chemical that is, but dry chemical of a few years ago was
terribly corrosive to aluminum, so you may want to inspect fairly often
'till you are sure there's no problem.
My hangar lease requires a dry chemical extinguisher .... and it's a
real dilemma for me to fight the fire or let it burn ..... either way,
down the road the plane would need extensive repairs due to the
corrosion and may become unairworthy anyway.
Linn
do not archive
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