---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 12/23/07: 20 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:56 AM - Re: Hydraulic lines - thread sealant (Emond) 2. 05:13 AM - Re: Re: Hydraulic lines - thread sealant (Dale Ensing) 3. 06:20 AM - Fw: Canopy "Big Cut" Question (Trevor) 4. 09:05 AM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (Ron Lee) 5. 09:40 AM - Any builders in the Covington, GA area? (Thilo Kind) 6. 11:55 AM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (Dana Overall) 7. 12:02 PM - Canopy "Big Cut" Question (James H Nelson) 8. 12:02 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (Tim Bryan) 9. 12:16 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (Tim Bryan) 10. 01:04 PM - Re: Canopy "Big Cut" Question (Doug Weiler) 11. 01:15 PM - Re: Canopy "Big Cut" Question (Scott) 12. 01:24 PM - Re: Canopy "Big Cut" Question (Patrick Kelley) 13. 01:26 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (linn Walters) 14. 01:31 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (linn Walters) 15. 02:58 PM - [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares) 16. 04:22 PM - Re: Timing 0-360A1A (Tim Bryan) 17. 04:26 PM - Brakeline Failure Photos [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Ed Anderson) 18. 04:53 PM - Re: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (linn Walters) 19. 05:24 PM - Re: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Ed Anderson) 20. 07:39 PM - Re: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (John W. Cox) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:56:14 AM PST US From: "Emond" Subject: RV-List: Re: Hydraulic lines - thread sealant I would appreciate suggestions to cure the following. I have a very slight weep on the joint where the standard Vans nylon brake line enters into the aluminum master cylinder fitting. Dave Emond ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:13:58 AM PST US From: "Dale Ensing" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Hydraulic lines - thread sealant Dave, You may need to give the nylon fitting another turn into the aluminum master cylinder. If you are like me...I was reluctant to give the nylon another turn when it didn't clock right into the proper position..so the threaded connection was not really tight. I then fought leaky connections for a year until I finally decided I had to give it another turn and risk stripping the nylon threads. I just did another one last week on one of the pedal cylinder. I turned it about 300 dergrees. The threads didn't strip and the leak appears to be gone. Dale Ensing ----- Original Message ----- From: "Emond" Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 3:33 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: Hydraulic lines - thread sealant > > I would appreciate suggestions to cure the following. > > I have a very slight weep on the joint where the standard Vans nylon brake > line enters into the aluminum master cylinder fitting. > > > Dave Emond > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:20:51 AM PST US From: "Trevor" Subject: Fw: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question I glued my entire canopy on without any hole being drilled in the plexiglass. some points to watch out for are: 1. Get the gap down to 1/8 -1/4 above the roll bar - the cut will then line up with the roll bar. Any larger gap will cause a "departure" with the two halves as the canopy "sinks" into position. 2. Remember that as you trim the front you will constantly have to move the canopy forward which also closes the gap at the roll bar due to the sloping of the canopy. 3. Leave a 1/4 " gap at the front for the Sikaflex to bond but no gap at the aft end - you'll see why later 4. You will need to put spacers on top of the roll bar 1/8" min for the Sika bond. There are a couple of ways to set the cut gap. Butt them up like Van's says, trimming so as to get a nice even line and then either fix in this way or, as I did, open the gap to 1/8' and fill with Sika, using release agents on the tip up part. The Sika that squeezes out can be cut and sanded down, when set, to make a nice air tight and streamlined seal. Remember to raise the tip up side by means of spacers as well so that the halves meet at the same level. To hold in place while setting I used straps going right around the fuse. 5. Don't try and do all the gluing at once. In fact it is far easier to do sections at a time and then come back to fill in. The Sika bonds well to set Sika. 6. Use electrical tape to mask off areas you dont want glue on. Don't use masking tape as it will stay under the Sika when you try and pull it off. 7. The Sika skins over quite quickly. If you haven't smoothed it by the second or third pass then leave it, let it dry and cut away and try again later. 8. Very important to use the correct Sika Primers and to follow the instructions. 9. If you want to cover the glare shield with Leather/vinal then you need to think about putting it in place and masking it about 1/4' from the plexi before laying a bead inside to give it a nice finished look . 10. To glue the front of the canopy, I filled the gap with dollops of Sika and then built up layers on the outside, shaping as I went to form a sloping filler ( used an old credit card) I was going to sand and leave the Sika as the final fairing but decided against as the inevitable someone would as sure as hell come and stick his fingernail in it just to see how hard it sets! I fibreglassed over the Sika - easy to do as it is already shaped and it bonds well to the Sika without any primer 11. Remember to roughen the plexi where you want the Sika to bond (100 grit works well) For the sides I drilled five of the fairing attach holes (only thro the frame - fairing will be match drilled later) in order to hold scrap 1/4" bar stock clecoed to the frame and overlapping the plexi in order to keep the plexi in place while the Sika set. Remember to mask off the plexi at frame height as the glue will ooze out. Not necessary to have a gap as your adhesion for strength will come from the fillet you place in the recess of the frame and the bottom of the plexi, before closing with the alu fairing and backdrilling the five holes you drilled previously. The aft canopy you do by cutting the overlap to +/- 1", roughen up, mask off, apply Sika and have some broomsticks and foam handy so that you can wedge the plexi up nice and tight against the rear skin. Let set, reapply the masking on the inside, so as to have a 1/4" gap from the plexi and then apply your fillet to give a nice strong and finishing edge. You should get a nice even and almost flush fit to the aft skin. Use some tank sealant along the outside to really give it a smooth transition. I have not covered all the nitty bits as it would take all day to read but if you would like any further info I'll be glad to pass it on or refer you to fellow RV-Sika Stickers here in South Africa. Trevor Davis: RV-7 tip up also building -7 slider with Sika ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dwight Frye" Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 4:48 AM Subject: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question > > Ok gang ... my canopy trimming is going quite well. And I am getting > close (already there?) to being ready for the "big cut". I'm building > an RV-7 with a tip-up canopy, and I intend to glue with SikaFlex. > > At this point I have the rough-trimming done all the way around. The > front of the canopy comes to the spot that the instructions suggest > is the "right place" (though I know this can easily vary a bit from > installation to installation). I have the "do not cut" line drawn > along the back of the canopy matching the curve of the rear fuselage > skin. I've trimmed to within 2 inches of that "do not cut" line. I > have also trimmed away the bits of plexiglas with the molding lines > from the sides, but am clearly not done trimming to an exact fit (nor > should I be, according to the instructions), at least on the sides > and along the back. The only place I'm trying to get the trim _exact_ > is along the front. I tell all this to paint a picture of exactly where > I am in the canopy trimming/fitting process. > > With the situation as described above, and with the sides of the canopy > being pressed firmly against the side of the fuselage, I am showing > roughly a 1-inch gap between the roll bar and the inside of the canopy. > Gus at Van's suggested that getting it down to a half-inch was ideal, > but I've heard others say they did the "big cut" with a as much as a > whopping 2-inch gap there. > > So ... my question is, should I continue to trim to reduce the gap or > should I just DO it? If I want to reduce the gap the only option is to > trim from the front, I believe. I figure taking off a 1/4 inch at a > time would be the way to go. True? That would be tedious ... but ... at > this point I take "tedious" as a given. > > Suggestions? Insights? Comments? Any and all are welcome. > > -- Dwight > RV-7, Tip-up, XP-360, API fuel injection, Hartzell BA prop > (The slowest builder in the east .... ) > do not archive > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 09:05:40 AM PST US From: "Ron Lee" Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A Learning on your own is admirable but this may be a case where hiring an A&P to show you how to do it may be in your best interest. Ron Lee ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 09:40:37 AM PST US From: "Thilo Kind" Subject: RV-List: Any builders in the Covington, GA area? Hi folks, I'm currently visiting a friend in Covington, GA - will stay here until the 5th. Are the any builders in the area - preferably RV8A builders - that would like to show me their project? I just delivery of an RV 8A kit. Thanks Thilo -- GMX FreeMail: 1 GB Postfach, 5 E-Mail-Adressen, 10 Free SMS. Alle Infos und kostenlose Anmeldung: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/freemail ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 11:55:10 AM PST US From: Dana Overall Subject: RE: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A Tim, I think you will find good reading here: http://www.sacskyranch.com/timingbendixslick.htm http://www.sacskyranch.com/faqslickmagneto.htm Dana Overall Richmond, KY i39 RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4 http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg http://rvflying.tripod.com _________________________________________________________________ The best games are on Xbox 360. Click here for a special offer on an Xbox 360 Console. http://www.xbox.com/en-US/hardware/wheretobuy/ ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 12:02:19 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question From: James H Nelson Dwight, I did the skia flex on my canopy. Make sure you have the spacers in place that will keep the canopy up away from the metal structures that you will glue to. This will require the canopy to be "longer" on the sides to make up for the raising of the canopy. I did the slider and "forgot" about the difference. Needless to say, I had to make the side skins again to make up for the taller canopy. I had cut to fit and then went oops! I also had to make my rear canopy fairing from glass as the aluminum would not work as the canopy was taller back there. It worked out ok and I'm happy with the fit. The same goes for the windscreen in the front. I used about a 3/8" spacer to let the adhesive work properly. I did bolt the sides thru the canopy to the frame. Those are the only holes in my canopy. Jim Nelson RV9-A ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 12:02:44 PM PST US From: "Tim Bryan" Subject: RE: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A With the help, I think I got it all figured out. Results: Data plate indicates timing is 25 BTDC. The left mag with impulse points open exactly at 25 BTDC The impulse fires exactly at TDC The right mag points open at the valley before the timing mark indicating they open about 1.5 degrees early. According to all indication I have found if it is within 2 degrees it is acceptable. I guess I am concluding the timing is OK. And the bonus is I understand it again as I had done this before but several years ago. I just had forgotten how to go through this process. Thanks to all, happy building Tim > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee > Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 9:21 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A > > > Learning on your own is admirable but this may be a case where > hiring an A&P to show you how to do it may be in your best interest. > > Ron Lee > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 12:16:26 PM PST US From: "Tim Bryan" Subject: RE: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A One more question. Does moving the mag to time it also move the point where the impulse fires? It seems to be right on 0 where it needs to be. Tim > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters > Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 12:27 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A > > > Tim Bryan wrote: > > > > >Hi Linn and others, > > > >Yes I have a buzz box on there and after reading the comments I have > located > >the hole in the starter. The right (non-impulse) mag is opening in the > >right spot with the 25 degree line at the little hole in the starter. > The > >left mag however is opening at zero when the impulse fires so I will > recheck > >in the morning to see if I can move the prop back a little after it fires > >and see if they are opening the same. It seems I did this inadvertently > >once or twice and it was opening at the 20 degree mark. I will recheck > this > >to see. If the left mag is firing at 20 degrees can I just move it so > when > >I use the procedure it will open at the same time as the right mag? > > > Wellll, maybe. If the mag is off by 20 degrees, I doubt that you'll be > able to rotate the mag far enough to get it back in time. It may be off > one tooth which means you'll have to pull the mag out, rotate it (in the > right direction!!!) and then re-insert it one tooth from the original > position. The mag should be in time somewhere close to the center of the > adjustment range. Take your time and repeat the process a few times, > making sure that you trip the impulse, move the prop backwards past the > mark but not far enough for the impulse to engage again, and then pull > the prop to approach the timing marks. This will take out any lash in > the mag drive train. > Linn > do not archive > > > > >Thanks for the help, and I agree I think I should obtain a good service > >manual for the A1A. > > > >Thanks for the help. > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 01:04:16 PM PST US From: "Doug Weiler" Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question Hmm.. thus you have more headroom in the airplane. How much did you think you added? One of our local RV-9A folks used this technique and it never occurred to me that you would be increasing headroom. I have just started an RV-7 and may consider the sikaflex method when the time comes. Doug Weiler RV-4, 450 hours ----- Original Message ----- From: "James H Nelson" Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 10:45 AM Subject: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question > > Dwight, > I did the skia flex on my canopy. Make sure you have the spacers > in place that will keep the canopy up away from the metal structures that > you will glue to. This will require the canopy to be "longer" on the > sides to make up for the raising of the canopy. I did the slider and > "forgot" about the difference. Needless to say, I had to make the side > skins again to make up for the taller canopy. I had cut to fit and then > went oops! I also had to make my rear canopy fairing from glass as the > aluminum would not work as the canopy was taller back there. It worked > out ok and I'm happy with the fit. The same goes for the windscreen in > the front. I used about a 3/8" spacer to let the adhesive work properly. > I did bolt the sides thru the canopy to the frame. Those are the only > holes in my canopy. > > > Jim Nelson ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 01:15:43 PM PST US From: Scott Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question Masochist! ;) do not archive Scott (Bloomer, WI( http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ Gotta Fly or Gonna Die Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version) Doug Weiler wrote: > I have just started an RV-7 ... > > Doug Weiler > RV-4, 450 hours > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 01:24:51 PM PST US From: "Patrick Kelley" Subject: RE: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question He added 3/8". That's the recommended spacing. It may make the difference between wearing a cap or not, but it's not huge. Pat Kelley - RV-6A - Hoping Santa brings me an engine... -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Weiler Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 2:03 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question Hmm.. thus you have more headroom in the airplane. How much did you think you added? One of our local RV-9A folks used this technique and it never occurred to me that you would be increasing headroom. I have just started an RV-7 and may consider the sikaflex method when the time comes. Doug Weiler RV-4, 450 hours ----- Original Message ----- From: "James H Nelson" Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 10:45 AM Subject: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question > > Dwight, > I did the skia flex on my canopy. Make sure you have the spacers > in place that will keep the canopy up away from the metal structures that > you will glue to. This will require the canopy to be "longer" on the > sides to make up for the raising of the canopy. I did the slider and > "forgot" about the difference. Needless to say, I had to make the side > skins again to make up for the taller canopy. I had cut to fit and then > went oops! I also had to make my rear canopy fairing from glass as the > aluminum would not work as the canopy was taller back there. It worked > out ok and I'm happy with the fit. The same goes for the windscreen in > the front. I used about a 3/8" spacer to let the adhesive work properly. > I did bolt the sides thru the canopy to the frame. Those are the only > holes in my canopy. > > > Jim Nelson ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 01:26:25 PM PST US From: linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A Tim Bryan wrote: > >One more question. Does moving the mag to time it also move the point where >the impulse fires? > Yes. > It seems to be right on 0 where it needs to be. > Then one of two things is happening ..... either the impulse is firing (either earlier or later) than the 25 dbtdc ...... or the right mag isn't timed correctly since there seems to be some difference. What you want is for both mags (with the impulse tripped) to fire at 25 BTDC ...... and let the impulse difference go by the wayside. If it's close, it'll do it's job. How much time on the mags??? Recommended 'overhaul' is 500 hours, but I know of few folks that follow that. Most owners wait 'till there's some degradation or complete failure to do anything. The points do wear and the e-gap will change over time, not to mention coil and cap changes as they age. The first time I had my mags done, the improvement was astonishing. I could no longer start on both mags (no key start) because the sky-tek starter spins the engine so well the non-impulse would fire and kick back. Linn do not archive >Tim > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 01:31:48 PM PST US From: linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A Tim Bryan wrote: > >With the help, I think I got it all figured out. Results: > >Data plate indicates timing is 25 BTDC. >The left mag with impulse points open exactly at 25 BTDC >The impulse fires exactly at TDC >The right mag points open at the valley before the timing mark indicating >they open about 1.5 degrees early. According to all indication I have found >if it is within 2 degrees it is acceptable. > Don't take offense, because I don't know your personally, but I think that's sloppy. You have everything you need to take the time to reset the right mag so it fires at 25 BTDC like the keft one. >I guess I am concluding the timing is OK. And the bonus is I understand it >again as I had done this before but several years ago. I just had forgotten >how to go through this process. > Take your time and do it right ...... get 'em dead nuts on. You're wasting HP and fuel ...... maybe emmeasureable, but it's there. Linn do not archive > >Thanks to all, happy building >Tim > > > >>-----Original Message----- >>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- >>server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee >>Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 9:21 AM >>To: rv-list@matronics.com >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A >> >> >>Learning on your own is admirable but this may be a case where >>hiring an A&P to show you how to do it may be in your best interest. >> >>Ron Lee >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 02:58:28 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! From: Email List Photo Shares A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Edward Anderson Lists: RV-List Subject: Brake Line Failure http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/eanderson@carolina.rr.com.12.23.2007/index.html ---------------------------------------------------------- o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures@matronics.com ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 04:22:51 PM PST US From: "Tim Bryan" Subject: RE: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A Hi Linn, No offense taken. I simply concluded it was OK because the documentation I found said it was acceptable. I already adjusted it to be right together earlier because I saw no reason not to. Anyway I am happier with it done. Thanks for your help and insight. Tim _____ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 3:24 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A Tim Bryan wrote: With the help, I think I got it all figured out. Results: Data plate indicates timing is 25 BTDC. The left mag with impulse points open exactly at 25 BTDC The impulse fires exactly at TDC The right mag points open at the valley before the timing mark indicating they open about 1.5 degrees early. According to all indication I have found if it is within 2 degrees it is acceptable. Don't take offense, because I don't know your personally, but I think that's sloppy. You have everything you need to take the time to reset the right mag so it fires at 25 BTDC like the keft one. I guess I am concluding the timing is OK. And the bonus is I understand it again as I had done this before but several years ago. I just had forgotten how to go through this process. Take your time and do it right ...... get 'em dead nuts on. You're wasting HP and fuel ...... maybe emmeasureable, but it's there. Linn do not archive Thanks to all, happy building Tim -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 9:21 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A Learning on your own is admirable but this may be a case where hiring an A&P to show you how to do it may be in your best interest. Ron Lee ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 04:26:14 PM PST US From: "Ed Anderson" Subject: RV-List: Brakeline Failure Photos [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! For those interested, there are two photos of my brake line fracture and fire at the below Matronics link. One shows the charred tire and wheel pant and the other shows the broken brake line - with a chunk of the side of the tube clearly blown out. Ed Ed Anderson ----- Original Message ----- From: "Email List Photo Shares" Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 5:55 PM Subject: RV-List: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! > > > > A new Email List Photo Share is available: > > Poster: Edward Anderson > > Lists: RV-List > > Subject: Brake Line Failure > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/eanderson@carolina.rr.com.12.23.2007/index.html > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > o Main Photo Share Index > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > > o Submitting a Photo Share > > If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the > following information along with your email message and files: > > 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: > 2) Your Full Name: > 3) Your Email Address: > 4) One line Subject description: > 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: > 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: > > Email the information above and your files and photos to: > > pictures@matronics.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 04:53:10 PM PST US From: linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! Ed, those pictures are nasty!!! Glad the fire was contained there! I've never seen tubing break like that, but then my 'sample' is relatively small. Usually breaks occur radially around the tubing, not linearly along the tube. My best guess would be a flaw in the tubing .... the jagged edge indicates it was brittle (or so I think). A more interesting photo would be after the powder was cleaned up. Don't know what dry chemical that is, but dry chemical of a few years ago was terribly corrosive to aluminum, so you may want to inspect fairly often 'till you are sure there's no problem. My hangar lease requires a dry chemical extinguisher .... and it's a real dilemma for me to fight the fire or let it burn ..... either way, down the road the plane would need extensive repairs due to the corrosion and may become unairworthy anyway. Linn do not archive ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 05:24:45 PM PST US From: "Ed Anderson" Subject: Re: RV-List: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! Hi Linn, Yes, the powder was all cleaned up as you are correct that of a few years ago was reportedly very corrosive to aluminum. I also thought the break clearly indicated either side wall fatigue or material defect. Its possible I may have work harden the tube while trying to bend it in that loop around the axis. The first "fire fighting" liquid was the remnants of a jug of antifreeze my quick acting nephew threw on the burning wheels pant. Fortunately, the fire did not heat it to its flashpoint - but it did suppress the external fire on the wheel pant, long enough for my nephew to hop in his car drive to the fuel pump area and return with their extinguisher. I had resigned my self to the loss of the aircraft and was moving people away to a safe distance - but fortunately the tire had not started to burn (although badly charred - it never lost air) and a blast from the extinguisher under the wheel pant put it out. None of the power was sprayed on the wing although clearly some probably landed there. You can still see the brake fluid leaking out by the tire on the ground. My nephew was actually taking a video of my returned from the aborted take off and caught the moment when the brake line completely failed and blew out on the hot rotor and ignited. The fire ball rose up above the canopy - I imagine it was when I made the last depression of the brake peddle. I did not know I was on fire until stopped in the ditch and I popped my canopy. I smelled the burning resin and immediately knew what it mean - and a second later my nephew stuck his head in and confirmed it. He yelled "Uncle Ed...Your' on FIRE!". It did nothing to lessen my speed of exit {:>) Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "linn Walters" Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 7:46 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! > > Ed, those pictures are nasty!!! Glad the fire was contained there! I've > never seen tubing break like that, but then my 'sample' is relatively > small. Usually breaks occur radially around the tubing, not linearly > along the tube. My best guess would be a flaw in the tubing .... the > jagged edge indicates it was brittle (or so I think). A more interesting > photo would be after the powder was cleaned up. Don't know what dry > chemical that is, but dry chemical of a few years ago was terribly > corrosive to aluminum, so you may want to inspect fairly often 'till you > are sure there's no problem. > > My hangar lease requires a dry chemical extinguisher .... and it's a real > dilemma for me to fight the fire or let it burn ..... either way, down the > road the plane would need extensive repairs due to the corrosion and may > become unairworthy anyway. > Linn > do not archive > > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 07:39:19 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! From: "John W. Cox" On my hangar, the dry chemical or CO2 was for purposes of reducing damage to the structure. The Lessor and State Fire Marshall could care less about my aircraft. Fire Annunciation and then Fire Suppression are two great topics. In Oregon, there must be a water based hydrant within 250 feet of the structure. Seems the Oregon Department of Aviation had been building non compliant structures for years. It could create a whole new thread. John Cox -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 4:47 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! Ed, those pictures are nasty!!! Glad the fire was contained there! I've never seen tubing break like that, but then my 'sample' is relatively small. Usually breaks occur radially around the tubing, not linearly along the tube. My best guess would be a flaw in the tubing .... the jagged edge indicates it was brittle (or so I think). A more interesting photo would be after the powder was cleaned up. Don't know what dry chemical that is, but dry chemical of a few years ago was terribly corrosive to aluminum, so you may want to inspect fairly often 'till you are sure there's no problem. My hangar lease requires a dry chemical extinguisher .... and it's a real dilemma for me to fight the fire or let it burn ..... either way, down the road the plane would need extensive repairs due to the corrosion and may become unairworthy anyway. Linn do not archive ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.