Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:21 AM - -8A Engine Control Cable routing (Valovich, Paul)
2. 07:49 AM - Re: Re: Synthetic brake fluid and Viton O-rings (glaesers)
3. 08:18 AM - Re: -8A Engine Control Cable routing (Konrad L. Werner)
4. 08:30 AM - Re: Re: Re: Synthetic brake fluid and Viton O-rings (Konrad L. Werner)
5. 11:34 AM - Anyone know Bob Upson from CT? (Shemp)
6. 12:42 PM - -8A Engine Control Cable routing (Ralph Hoover)
7. 01:00 PM - Re: -8A Engine Control Cable routing (Tim Bryan)
8. 04:01 PM - Re: RV-List Digest: 33 Msgs - 12/26/07 (Glen Matejcek)
9. 04:52 PM - Re: Re: RV-List Digest: 33 Msgs - 12/26/07 (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | -8A Engine Control Cable routing |
Tried this on VAF but got no response.
I hope to hang the engine this weekend, so want to punch as many
firewall holes as I can before mounting. All was going well IAW Vans
Firewall Forward instructions til I got to the engine control cables,
where I was referenced to Drawing 21. There, I observed a serious
caution about making precise measurements using coat hanger wire
forward, and "Typical" locations for the holes. Anyone have words
regarding their experience? Is this one of those "TLAR" (That Looks
About Right) measurements, or do I have to get it to a gnat's a**? If
the latter, what is that?
I have an Aerosport IO-360 horizantal induction engine and a Vans delux
RV-8 throttle quandrant.
Paul Valovich
N192NM LuJaRo
Ridgecrest, CA
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Re: Synthetic brake fluid and Viton O-rings |
Hi Konrad,
The glycol does absorb water - but that is considered good because then the
water doesn't separate out and then corrode the stuff at the low points in
the system. There was a big discussion about this a while back (I found it
by searching). Changing the seals was pretty easy. I guess I like the idea
of no flashpoint best of all :-)
We will like having the kids closer (1.5hrs by RV!) Depending on when they
actually leave, and when I get mine flying, I may get a chance to make a
trip out west. We'll see.
Dennis
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------
Hi Dennis,
Doesn't glycol absorb moisture from the atmosphere in high humidity
areas?
Wouldn't it have been easier to get the newer/higher flashpoint fluid
instead of changing all these seals?
Give my greetings to the Kids..., and I guess now we won't see you here
in ABQ again.
Konrad
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: -8A Engine Control Cable routing |
Paul,
You'll know a gnat when one bite's you! But let me assure you that a
gnat is so small that the proverbial gnat's a** equals into a very
precise measurement for your RV building experience...
Konrad,
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Valovich, Paul
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 8:20 AM
Subject: RV-List: -8A Engine Control Cable routing
Tried this on VAF but got no response.
I hope to hang the engine this weekend, so want to punch as many
firewall holes as I can before mounting. All was going well IAW Vans
Firewall Forward instructions til I got to the engine control cables,
where I was referenced to Drawing 21. There, I observed a serious
caution about making precise measurements using coat hanger wire
forward, and "Typical" locations for the holes. Anyone have words
regarding their experience? Is this one of those "TLAR" (That Looks
About Right) measurements, or do I have to get it to a gnat's a**? If
the latter, what is that?
I have an Aerosport IO-360 horizantal induction engine and a Vans
delux RV-8 throttle quandrant.
Paul Valovich
N192NM LuJaRo
Ridgecrest, CA
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Re: Synthetic brake fluid and Viton O-rings |
Dennis,
Wouldn't it be better if any brake fluid does not attract (and absorb)
any potential water in the first place?
Wouldn't the commercial and military guys adopt automotive Dot-X, if it
were the better way to go? Just curious...
One cause in regards to brake fires could be the rather tight wheel
pants which restrict the dissipation of heat from the brake rotors.
I think the newer brakefluid with it's higher boiling point is
sufficient (as designed), if one does not "ride" the brakes all the
time...
Other then that, I don't know much about the other intricacies between
car and airplane brake systems and their potential pro's and con's?
Cheers,
Konrad
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: glaesers
To: RV-List@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 8:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Re: Synthetic brake fluid and Viton O-rings
Hi Konrad,
The glycol does absorb water - but that is considered good because
then the
water doesn't separate out and then corrode the stuff at the low
points in
the system. There was a big discussion about this a while back (I
found it
by searching). Changing the seals was pretty easy. I guess I like
the idea
of no flashpoint best of all :-)
We will like having the kids closer (1.5hrs by RV!) Depending on when
they
actually leave, and when I get mine flying, I may get a chance to make
a
trip out west. We'll see.
Dennis
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
------------------
Hi Dennis,
Doesn't glycol absorb moisture from the atmosphere in high humidity
areas?
Wouldn't it have been easier to get the newer/higher flashpoint fluid
instead of changing all these seals?
Give my greetings to the Kids..., and I guess now we won't see you
here
in ABQ again.
Konrad
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Anyone know Bob Upson from CT? |
Im trying to find out some info on his paint.
Thanks
Jeff
do not archive
Brian Kraut wrote:
> I will be co-hosting a new aviation radio show in Jacksonville on
> Saturday mornings from 9:00 until 10:00 AM Eastern time starting
> January 5. It should be a lot of fun. It will be available online.
> The online link is on the web site at www.flighttimeradio.com
> <http://www.flighttimeradio.com>. Feel free to pass this around to
> your airplane loving friends and potential advertisers.
>
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 6
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| Subject: | -8A Engine Control Cable routing |
Paul,
I cannot speak to the 8A specifically but my experience with this
issue on the 7A may be helpful.
1. I connected a number of items prior to routing the controls. Mistake!!
If I had it to do over I would have hung the engine, located the cable
penetrations and then removed the Engine along with the mount to drill
and finish the holes. (A sawhorse under the tail and some sand bags will
lift the nose so that the mount can be removed engine and all.) Try that
on a 7 or 8!!
2. Vans instructions are generic and probably do not include the
specific combination of parts you will be using. Sensors, Gascolator,
Relays, Ignition, back-up battery, parking brake valve, grounds .... All
of these items will need a home, some will need firewall mods that are
easier done while the firewall is flat on the bench. Of course that is
only possible with very precise planning!!
3. I probably would have saved some bloodshed and aggravation if I had
planned better and then removed the engine and mount to allow finishing
the firewall mods.
4. As for the precise location of penetrations I carefully located and
drilled for the throttle cable (may have been mixture) only to find that
it was too high on the interior. I ended up modifying the heater outlet
box. So measure twice (or more and cut once).
5. I did leave the top skin off until almost all of the plumbing and
wiring was complete, I was therefore able to get to both sides of the
firewall with some stretching.
We are all building production prototypes. The production model always
goes much faster. If you can find someone using the same goodies as you
are then their information may be more precise.
Good luck!
--
Ralph C. Hoover
RV7A (working on wheel pants)
hooverra at verizon dot net
Message 7
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| Subject: | -8A Engine Control Cable routing |
I would have to agree with this analysis. I installed my engine (-6) before
any holes were located on the firewall. For the most part this was easy
enough. The control cables on the other hand were a real bummer. I
intended to install little eyeball fittings that clamped on the control
cable. This was terribly difficult with the engine in place and I abandoned
the idea. Most everything else is easy enough to drill or mount.
However be really cautious about where the exhaust system, and other parts
are located if they are not installed on the engine when you decide on
routing of the cables. For me the ones that were important to get in the
right spot were the prop control and the throttle. Some of the others have
more room to curve a little if not lined up just right.
Just my thoughts from my experience.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph Hoover
> Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 2:39 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: -8A Engine Control Cable routing
>
>
> Paul,
> I cannot speak to the 8A specifically but my experience with this
> issue on the 7A may be helpful.
> 1. I connected a number of items prior to routing the controls. Mistake!!
> If I had it to do over I would have hung the engine, located the cable
> penetrations and then removed the Engine along with the mount to drill
> and finish the holes. (A sawhorse under the tail and some sand bags will
> lift the nose so that the mount can be removed engine and all.) Try that
> on a 7 or 8!!
> 2. Vans instructions are generic and probably do not include the
> specific combination of parts you will be using. Sensors, Gascolator,
> Relays, Ignition, back-up battery, parking brake valve, grounds .... All
> of these items will need a home, some will need firewall mods that are
> easier done while the firewall is flat on the bench. Of course that is
> only possible with very precise planning!!
> 3. I probably would have saved some bloodshed and aggravation if I had
> planned better and then removed the engine and mount to allow finishing
> the firewall mods.
> 4. As for the precise location of penetrations I carefully located and
> drilled for the throttle cable (may have been mixture) only to find that
> it was too high on the interior. I ended up modifying the heater outlet
> box. So measure twice (or more and cut once).
> 5. I did leave the top skin off until almost all of the plumbing and
> wiring was complete, I was therefore able to get to both sides of the
> firewall with some stretching.
>
> We are all building production prototypes. The production model always
> goes much faster. If you can find someone using the same goodies as you
> are then their information may be more precise.
>
> Good luck!
>
> --
> Ralph C. Hoover
> RV7A (working on wheel pants)
> hooverra at verizon dot net
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 33 Msgs - 12/26/07 |
Hi All-
Re:>I plan on changing out to the higher temp synthetic transmission fluid
>discussed here (Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF) and in addition will change
>over to the Viton O-rings
>
Doing research leading to having some brake seals custom made for a different aircraft
I discovered that Viton seals are not as durable as nitrile in reciprocating
applications. This is, of course, precisely the situation with the brake
piston / cylinder seal. I can't quantify the degradation of seal longevity
with a switch to Viton, but the folks that make them will 'fess up if the right
questions are asked.
FYI-
Glen Matejcek
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 33 Msgs - 12/26/07 |
In a message dated 12/28/2007 4:03:01 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
aerobubba@earthlink.net writes:
Doing research leading to having some brake seals custom made for a
different aircraft I discovered that Viton seals are not as durable as nitrile
in
reciprocating applications.
===================================================
This is absolutely true, but the emphasis is on the word "reciprocating". A
reciprocating application would be on a cylinder rod seal in your master
cylinder or a motorcycle front fork tube, where there is substantial motion.
Engineering is about making valid tradeoffs.
In the case of the caliper piston it moves only slightly in normal
application and retraction, basically rolling the O-ring elastically. This is
also
the reason for using the lower 75 durometer Viton.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 883hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
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