Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:02 AM - Re: hangar lighting (Chuck Jensen)
2. 08:01 AM - Re: hangar lighting (Tomasz Korwel)
3. 08:13 AM - Re: hangar lighting (Charlie England)
4. 08:30 AM - Re: hangar lighting (Tim Bryan)
5. 08:34 AM - Re: hangar lighting (Chuck Jensen)
6. 08:50 AM - Re: hangar lighting (Tim Bryan)
7. 09:05 AM - Re: hangar lighting (Tomasz Korwel)
8. 09:17 AM - Re: hangar lighting (Konrad L. Werner)
9. 10:04 AM - Re: hangar lighting (Chuck Jensen)
10. 12:18 PM - Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer (tom sargent)
11. 12:30 PM - Re: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer (Vanremog@aol.com)
12. 01:13 PM - Re: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer (Ted French)
13. 01:51 PM - Re: hangar lighting (Dave Nellis)
14. 02:44 PM - Re: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer (Darrell Reiley)
15. 02:52 PM - Re: hangar lighting (Vanremog@aol.com)
16. 02:53 PM - Re: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer (Patrick Kelley)
17. 04:21 PM - Re: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer (Rick Galati)
18. 04:54 PM - Re: Re: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer (Larry Bowen)
19. 05:18 PM - Re: hangar lighting (Hedrick)
20. 10:28 PM - Re: Re: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer (mike humphrey)
Message 1
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Go with the highest voltage available to the hangar. In general the cost to run
them is inversely proportional to the voltage. A 240v light will cost twice
as much to run as a 480v unit....and a 120v unit, putting out the same light,
will break the bank. We shouldn't try wiring 220v/440v ourselves unless we really
know what we're doing. 220v can burn and kill, 440v can burn, make body
parts explode and then kill you. High voltage wiring is way more dangerous than
flying (which ain't).
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 12:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: hangar lighting
There was some discussion last month about hangar lights so I thought
there might still be some interest in this.
One of my neighbors just bought some 400 W metal halide low-bay lights
for his business & hangar for a pretty good price & they appear to be
high quality. The only downside is this seller sells them in lots of 10
(4 is all you should need in a 50x50 hangar).
Search ebay for item 120205873311 then go to this seller's store to pick
the right light. Be sure to check the input voltage. He's got some that
are 120/240 volt & some that are 277/480 volt.
Charlie
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: hangar lighting |
That's probably because you can't see neither air nor electricity. Keep
in mind that in Europe we have 200V in every outlet and 400V (3 phases)
is nothing unusual in bigger houses. So read some manual, do some risk
evaluation and go ahead :-)
--
Tomasz
Chuck Jensen wrote:
>
> Go with the highest voltage available to the hangar. In general the cost to
run them is inversely proportional to the voltage. A 240v light will cost twice
as much to run as a 480v unit....and a 120v unit, putting out the same light,
will break the bank. We shouldn't try wiring 220v/440v ourselves unless we
really know what we're doing. 220v can burn and kill, 440v can burn, make body
parts explode and then kill you. High voltage wiring is way more dangerous
than flying (which ain't).
>
> Chuck Jensen
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie England
> Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 12:59 AM
> To: RV list
> Subject: RV-List: hangar lighting
>
>
>
> There was some discussion last month about hangar lights so I thought
> there might still be some interest in this.
>
> One of my neighbors just bought some 400 W metal halide low-bay lights
> for his business & hangar for a pretty good price & they appear to be
> high quality. The only downside is this seller sells them in lots of 10
> (4 is all you should need in a 50x50 hangar).
>
> Search ebay for item 120205873311 then go to this seller's store to pick
> the right light. Be sure to check the input voltage. He's got some that
> are 120/240 volt & some that are 277/480 volt.
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: hangar lighting |
Don't you think that assessment is a little overstated? 240V will be
slightly more efficient due to less resistive loss in the wire, but for
lighting, watts is watts and that's how you get billed for electricity.
It also raises issues if you will be using existing wiring, if you worry
about safety (switching issues) and electrical codes (number of conductors).
Since 120V will kill you dead, is 240V really more dangerous? And in
order to get hit by 240V, you've got to get across both hot legs in the
circuit. It's much more likely that you'll get between one of the legs
(120V) & neutral or ground, instead of between the legs. 440V *can* burn
(if you get between both hot legs), but very few of us is likely to have
available 277V or 440V in a typical hangar. That's why I mentioned being
sure to order the right voltage.
Bottom line is that any voltage likely to be used for power in a house
or building can be dangerous & you should either know what you're doing
or get assistance.
Thoughts?
Charlie
Chuck Jensen wrote:
>
> Go with the highest voltage available to the hangar. In general the
> cost to run them is inversely proportional to the voltage. A 240v
> light will cost twice as much to run as a 480v unit....and a 120v
> unit, putting out the same light, will break the bank. We shouldn't
> try wiring 220v/440v ourselves unless we really know what we're
> doing. 220v can burn and kill, 440v can burn, make body parts
> explode and then kill you. High voltage wiring is way more dangerous
> than flying (which ain't).
>
> Chuck Jensen
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie
> England Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 12:59 AM To: RV list Subject:
> RV-List: hangar lighting
>
>
> <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
> There was some discussion last month about hangar lights so I thought
> there might still be some interest in this.
>
> One of my neighbors just bought some 400 W metal halide low-bay
> lights for his business & hangar for a pretty good price & they
> appear to be high quality. The only downside is this seller sells
> them in lots of 10 (4 is all you should need in a 50x50 hangar).
>
> Search ebay for item 120205873311 then go to this seller's store to
> pick the right light. Be sure to check the input voltage. He's got
> some that are 120/240 volt & some that are 277/480 volt.
>
> Charlie
>
Message 4
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Hi Chuck,
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Jensen
> Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 7:56 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: hangar lighting
>
>
> Go with the highest voltage available to the hangar. In general the cost
> to run them is inversely proportional to the voltage. A 240v light will
> cost twice as much to run as a 480v unit....and a 120v unit, putting out
> the same light, will break the bank. We shouldn't try wiring 220v/440v
> ourselves unless we really know what we're doing. 220v can burn and kill,
> 440v can burn, make body parts explode and then kill you. High voltage
> wiring is way more dangerous than flying (which ain't).
>
> Chuck Jensen
>
This isn't quite as intuitive as it seems. For instance an item that runs
on 120 vs 220 will show half the amperage but that is because there is more
voltage available to it. The mathematical calculation for amperage is based
on voltage thus the theory is the consumption is really the same regardless
of the voltage you use.
The point here is don't be fooled into thinking because the amperage is less
that the consumption would be less. It isn't. Now for motor loads there is
some small validity to this because of the motor start load and efficiency
with a higher voltage.
Also wiring for 220 is no different than wiring for 120 in this situation
except the breaker you are going to use. Plus more people are killed on 120
volts than anything higher. If you are going to get hooked on a hot wire,
120 will keep you on easier than a higher voltage. Just don't work with the
wires hot and it won't be an issue. If you have to work something hot,
always hook the ground up first, the neutral up next (if there is one) and
the hot wires up last. When hooking the hot wire don't get between it and
the load. It only takes One amp to kill you. That is one 100 watt light
bulb on 120 volts will kill you if you get between the hot and the load with
each hand as the current will run through your heart.
Anyway, just thought I would add this so someone doesn't get the wrong
impression.
Tim
Message 5
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Tomasz, electricity does not scare me because I can't see it. I'm only afraid
of the shocking results when one does not exercise due caution.
To a degree, I should amend the statement about voltage killing--its really amps
that does the job. Low voltage at high amps is still a problem. In general,
when we see 480v service installation, there's usually a couple hundred amps
behind it--therein lies the danger. You are correct that Europe does have higher
voltages as a routine matter, but the amps are lower at the same time. In
short the threat does not escalate directly proportional to the voltage increase
alone. Ex. 120v 10 amps is roughly equivalent to 240v 5 amps.
Yes, 120v can kill, but its highly unusual unless you like taking a bath with while
blow drying your hair! We used to have an electrician that would check light
sockets by wetting his finger and sticking it in the socket...smiling all
the while. No thanks. But I noticed he didn't check 220v circuits that way....
:-)
Chuck Jensen
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tomasz Korwel
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 10:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: hangar lighting
That's probably because you can't see neither air nor electricity. Keep
in mind that in Europe we have 200V in every outlet and 400V (3 phases)
is nothing unusual in bigger houses. So read some manual, do some risk
evaluation and go ahead :-)
--
Tomasz
Chuck Jensen wrote:
>
> Go with the highest voltage available to the hangar. In general the cost to
run them is inversely proportional to the voltage. A 240v light will cost twice
as much to run as a 480v unit....and a 120v unit, putting out the same light,
will break the bank. We shouldn't try wiring 220v/440v ourselves unless we
really know what we're doing. 220v can burn and kill, 440v can burn, make body
parts explode and then kill you. High voltage wiring is way more dangerous
than flying (which ain't).
>
> Chuck Jensen
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie England
> Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 12:59 AM
> To: RV list
> Subject: RV-List: hangar lighting
>
>
>
> There was some discussion last month about hangar lights so I thought
> there might still be some interest in this.
>
> One of my neighbors just bought some 400 W metal halide low-bay lights
> for his business & hangar for a pretty good price & they appear to be
> high quality. The only downside is this seller sells them in lots of 10
> (4 is all you should need in a 50x50 hangar).
>
> Search ebay for item 120205873311 then go to this seller's store to pick
> the right light. Be sure to check the input voltage. He's got some that
> are 120/240 volt & some that are 277/480 volt.
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Jensen
> Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 10:31 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: hangar lighting
>
>
> Tomasz, electricity does not scare me because I can't see it. I'm only
> afraid of the shocking results when one does not exercise due caution.
>
> To a degree, I should amend the statement about voltage killing--its
> really amps that does the job. Low voltage at high amps is still a
> problem. In general, when we see 480v service installation, there's
> usually a couple hundred amps behind it--therein lies the danger. You are
> correct that Europe does have higher voltages as a routine matter, but the
> amps are lower at the same time. In short the threat does not escalate
> directly proportional to the voltage increase alone. Ex. 120v 10 amps is
> roughly equivalent to 240v 5 amps.
>
> Yes, 120v can kill, but its highly unusual unless you like taking a bath
> with while blow drying your hair! We used to have an electrician that
> would check light sockets by wetting his finger and sticking it in the
> socket...smiling all the while. No thanks. But I noticed he didn't check
> 220v circuits that way.... :-)
[Tim] Chuck, I did this all the time as well, but when I touched the two
wires I always made contact with the neutral first then the hot. This way
the current had a definite path to travel that I controlled and the current
only runs a short distance around your hand and definitely not to your feet
or other hand (though the body). You don't do this with 220 because you
would have to touch a hot wire first as they are both hot. It has nothing
to do with 220 being more dangerous. Again, 120 volts will kill you just as
easy and more people are killed with 120 volts.
Tim
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: hangar lighting |
> Yes, 120v can kill, but its highly unusual unless you like taking a
> bath with while blow drying your hair! We used to have an
> electrician that would check light sockets by wetting his finger and
> sticking it in the socket...smiling all the while. No thanks. But I
> noticed he didn't check 220v circuits that way.... :-)
Explaining this needs far more text that I'm able to clearly produce in
English, but two things matter:
a) your conductivity
b) path of current through your body.
If you wet your finger and use it to connect two wires the water on your
finger creates conductive layer _on_the_surface_ of your skin so neither
the path is long (1/2 inch maybe) nor the current going through your
body is big - nothing can happen to you. Different story if you touch
only hot wire and the current goes through your entire body to the ground.
I remember touching 500V in the laboratory, it was a standard routine
our professor used to demonstrate how it works. No effects. _BUT_ we had
highly isolating mats on the floor, so there was no current going
through us.
Long story short:
a) never work on live circuit
b) if you have to work on live circuit use rated tools and wear your
boots! (rubber layer on bottom isolates you from the ground)
c) never touch two wires at once
and you'll be safe.
Higher voltage has one good effect - lower amperage requires thinner,
lighter and cheaper wires and it greatly reduces risk of overheating
circuit and fire.
--
Tomasz
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: hangar lighting |
Chuck,
"Used" too... ??? Did Sparky fry himself with a smile on his face?
Just wondering...
Snip....
We *USED* too have an electrician that would check light sockets by
wetting his finger and sticking it in the socket...smiling all the
while. No thanks.
Snip...
Do Not Archive
Message 9
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer |
I just realized that I never did anything to close up the small gap
between underside of the horiz. stab. and the fuselage. I just looked
thru the drawings (my plans are old - 1999) and empenage fairing section
of my manual and couldn't find any indication of a gap-filler for this
spot. Am I missing it , or is the builder left to his own resources in
this area? I have seen at least one plane that had no gap filler.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer |
In a message dated 1/6/2008 12:20:28 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
sarg314@comcast.net writes:
I just realized that I never did anything to close up the small gap
between underside of the horiz. stab. and the fuselage. I just looked
thru the drawings (my plans are old - 1999) and empenage fairing section
of my manual and couldn't find any indication of a gap-filler for this
spot. Am I missing it , or is the builder left to his own resources in
this area? I have seen at least one plane that had no gap filler.
================================================
IIRC there is in fact a drawing that shows this feature. But unless the
opening is large enough to ensnare a small dog, I can't imagine it being a
problem, other than the small amount of drag it will add.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 883hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
Message 12
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| Subject: | Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer |
Tom
I'm assuming you have the metal fairing in place. The small gap left over is
filled with the same rummer strip thats used for the wing intersection
fairings
Do Not Archive
Ted French C-FXCS
RV-10 Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of tom sargent
Sent: January 6, 2008 12:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer
I just realized that I never did anything to close up the small gap
between underside of the horiz. stab. and the fuselage. I just looked
thru the drawings (my plans are old - 1999) and empenage fairing section
of my manual and couldn't find any indication of a gap-filler for this
spot. Am I missing it , or is the builder left to his own resources in
this area? I have seen at least one plane that had no gap filler.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Message 13
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A little electrical theory here.
E = I x R
I = E / R
R = E / I
E=voltage
I=amperage
R=resistance
P = I x E
P=watts or power consumed
If you double the voltage, you halve the amperage for
the same power consumed.
The Edison meter on your house or hangar measures P or
watts. The only gain by going to a higher voltage is
that you can use a smaller guage wire or put more
lights on a circuit. There is an efficiency factor
involved with alternating current (AC) called power
factor but with most HID lighting, 86% is the usual
number so using the above formuli works for comparison
purposes.
Dave Nellis
30 years + electrician
7A wings in mid Febb.
--- Chuck Jensen <cjensen@dts9000.com> wrote:
> <cjensen@dts9000.com>
>
> Go with the highest voltage available to the hangar.
> In general the cost to run them is inversely
> proportional to the voltage. A 240v light will cost
> twice as much to run as a 480v unit....and a 120v
> unit, putting out the same light, will break the
> bank. We shouldn't try wiring 220v/440v ourselves
> unless we really know what we're doing. 220v can
> burn and kill, 440v can burn, make body parts
> explode and then kill you. High voltage wiring is
> way more dangerous than flying (which ain't).
>
> Chuck Jensen
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf
> Of Charlie England
> Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 12:59 AM
> To: RV list
> Subject: RV-List: hangar lighting
>
>
> <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
> There was some discussion last month about hangar
> lights so I thought
> there might still be some interest in this.
>
> One of my neighbors just bought some 400 W metal
> halide low-bay lights
> for his business & hangar for a pretty good price &
> they appear to be
> high quality. The only downside is this seller sells
> them in lots of 10
> (4 is all you should need in a 50x50 hangar).
>
> Search ebay for item 120205873311 then go to this
> seller's store to pick
> the right light. Be sure to check the input voltage.
> He's got some that
> are 120/240 volt & some that are 277/480 volt.
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer |
My plans state use rubber strip supplied if you wish
or optional trim to 1/32 or so gap and go with no
strip.
Darrell
--- Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 1/6/2008 12:20:28 P.M. Pacific
> Standard Time,
> sarg314@comcast.net writes:
>
> I just realized that I never did anything to close
> up the small gap
> between underside of the horiz. stab. and the
> fuselage. I just looked
> thru the drawings (my plans are old - 1999) and
> empenage fairing section
> of my manual and couldn't find any indication of a
> gap-filler for this
> spot. Am I missing it , or is the builder left to
> his own resources in
> this area? I have seen at least one plane that had
> no gap filler.
>
>
>
> ================================================
>
> IIRC there is in fact a drawing that shows this
> feature. But unless the
> opening is large enough to ensnare a small dog, I
> can't imagine it being a
> problem, other than the small amount of drag it
> will add.
>
> N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 883hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon
> Valley)
>
>
>
>
> **************Start the year off right. Easy ways
> to stay in shape.
>
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
>
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Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: hangar lighting |
In a message dated 1/6/2008 1:53:27 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
truflite@yahoo.com writes:
The only gain by going to a higher voltage is
that you can use a smaller guage wire or put more
lights on a circuit. There is an efficiency factor
involved with alternating current (AC) called power
factor but with most HID lighting, 86% is the usual
number so using the above formuli works for comparison
purposes.
===================================================
You've got your Ohm's law down well, but it drives me nuts when a 30 year
electrician still can't spell gauge and formulae. ;o)
Sorry, nothing to do on a stormy day.
Do not archive.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 883hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
Message 16
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| Subject: | Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer |
I managed to fit mine very close and used some rubber 'U' channel from ACS
to fill the gap and prevent rubbing.
PatK - RV-6A - Back to wiring; got the intercom and music input going
PS - Your plans aren't old ... mine are from 1994. I bet there are older
out there.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of tom sargent
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 1:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer
I just realized that I never did anything to close up the small gap
between underside of the horiz. stab. and the fuselage. I just looked
thru the drawings (my plans are old - 1999) and empenage fairing section
of my manual and couldn't find any indication of a gap-filler for this
spot. Am I missing it , or is the builder left to his own resources in
this area? I have seen at least one plane that had no gap filler.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Message 17
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| Subject: | RE: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer |
I did not like the plans callout to drill and tap the longeron for screws to attach
the .025 fairing so after trimming it to fit I simply bonded the fairing
into place using good ol proseal. I did not install the rubber channel either.
[URL=http://imageshack.us][IMG]http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/4825/airframedetails00340xp6.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer |
Nice. You just taped it in place while the proseal dried?
--
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Jan 6, 2008 7:19 PM, Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I did not like the plans callout to drill and tap the longeron for screws
> to attach the .025 fairing so after trimming it to fit I simply bonded the
> fairing into place using good ol proseal. I did not install the rubber
> channel either.
>
> [URL
> http://imageshack.us][IMG]http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/4825/airframedetails00340xp6.jpg[/IMG][/URL
> ]
>
> *
>
>
Message 19
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Dave
Thanks for the lesson. I appreciate it. I am very weak when it comes to
this stuff.
Keith
Do Not Archive
==================================
A little electrical theory here.
E = I x R
I = E / R
R = E / I
E=voltage
I=amperage
R=resistance
P = I x E
P=watts or power consumed
If you double the voltage, you halve the amperage for
the same power consumed.
The Edison meter on your house or hangar measures P or
watts. The only gain by going to a higher voltage is
that you can use a smaller guage wire or put more
lights on a circuit. There is an efficiency factor
involved with alternating current (AC) called power
factor but with most HID lighting, 86% is the usual
number so using the above formuli works for comparison
purposes.
Dave Nellis
30 years + electrician
7A wings in mid Febb.
--- Chuck Jensen <cjensen@dts9000.com> wrote:
> <cjensen@dts9000.com>
>
> Go with the highest voltage available to the hangar.
> In general the cost to run them is inversely
> proportional to the voltage. A 240v light will cost
> twice as much to run as a 480v unit....and a 120v
> unit, putting out the same light, will break the
> bank. We shouldn't try wiring 220v/440v ourselves
> unless we really know what we're doing. 220v can
> burn and kill, 440v can burn, make body parts
> explode and then kill you. High voltage wiring is
> way more dangerous than flying (which ain't).
>
> Chuck Jensen
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf
> Of Charlie England
> Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 12:59 AM
> To: RV list
> Subject: RV-List: hangar lighting
>
>
> <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
> There was some discussion last month about hangar
> lights so I thought
> there might still be some interest in this.
>
> One of my neighbors just bought some 400 W metal
> halide low-bay lights
> for his business & hangar for a pretty good price &
> they appear to be
> high quality. The only downside is this seller sells
> them in lots of 10
> (4 is all you should need in a 50x50 hangar).
>
> Search ebay for item 120205873311 then go to this
> seller's store to pick
> the right light. Be sure to check the input voltage.
> He's got some that
> are 120/240 volt & some that are 277/480 volt.
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer |
who's ever successfully mounted the rubber channel anyway. I had to
hack so much of mine away at the HS that it would not stay on the
fairing due to the upward curve of the fairing to transition to the
fuse. Gave up on it, and threw it in the "well that didn't work bin".
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Galati
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 7:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer
I did not like the plans callout to drill and tap the longeron for
screws to attach the .025 fairing so after trimming it to fit I simply
bonded the fairing into place using good ol proseal. I did not install
the rubber channel either.
[URL=http://imageshack.us][IMG]http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/4825/
airframedetails00340xp6.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
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