Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:37 AM - Re: hangar lighting (Dave Nellis)
2. 03:50 AM - Re: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer (Rick Galati)
3. 07:27 AM - Re: Heat boxes for RV-4 (Paul Besing)
4. 10:58 AM - electricity (Wheeler North)
5. 01:06 PM - Re: Re: Synthetic brake fluid and Viton O-rings (jimmy)
6. 03:40 PM - Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer (James H Nelson)
7. 03:47 PM - Re: Re: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer (Doug Gray)
8. 05:25 PM - Re: electricity (Tomasz Korwel)
9. 05:55 PM - Re: Re: Synthetic brake fluid and Viton O-rings (Ron Lee)
10. 05:57 PM - Re: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer (Kyle Boatright)
11. 06:42 PM - Re: electricity (Ralph Hoover)
12. 06:44 PM - Re: Re: Synthetic brake fluid and Viton O-rings (Randy Lervold)
13. 06:46 PM - Re: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer (Carl Froehlich)
14. 07:08 PM - Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week (Bret Smith)
15. 07:51 PM - Re: Heat boxes for RV-4 (halbenjamin@optonline.net)
16. 07:52 PM - Re: Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week (Bob Collins)
17. 08:17 PM - Re: Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week (Konrad L. Werner)
18. 08:27 PM - Re: Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week (Steven Eberhart)
19. 08:43 PM - Re: Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week (William Gill)
20. 09:39 PM - Re: Heat boxes for RV-4 (Paul Besing)
21. 09:40 PM - Re: Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week (Jack Hilditch)
22. 10:20 PM - Re: Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week (Fiveonepw@AOL.COM)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: hangar lighting |
Yeah, I am a good electrician and so so with grammar.
My wife says she can dress me up, just can't take me
out of the house. :D
Dave Nellis
--- Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 1/6/2008 1:53:27 P.M. Pacific
> Standard Time,
> truflite@yahoo.com writes:
>
> The only gain by going to a higher voltage is
> that you can use a smaller guage wire or put more
> lights on a circuit. There is an efficiency factor
> involved with alternating current (AC) called power
> factor but with most HID lighting, 86% is the usual
> number so using the above formuli works for
> comparison
> purposes.
>
>
>
> ===================================================
>
> You've got your Ohm's law down well, but it drives
> me nuts when a 30 year
> electrician still can't spell gauge and formulae.
> ;o)
>
> Sorry, nothing to do on a stormy day.
>
> Do not archive.
>
> N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 883hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon
> Valley)
>
>
>
> **************Start the year off right. Easy ways
> to stay in shape.
>
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
>
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer |
Larry,
Yea, the fairing was temporarily held into into place using bits of tape. After
about 24 hours of (partial) cure time, the excess proseal squeeze out was removed
using a plastic scraper and MEK....ditto for the NACA vents, rudder cable
fairings, footsteps, etc.
Rick
Larry Bowen wrote:
> Nice. You just taped it in place while the proseal dried?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156508#156508
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Heat boxes for RV-4 |
Installation was pretty easy. I had a scat tube running from the baffles to the
firewall, into a box that splits to two scat tubes going to the air vents, just
below the panel on either side of the fuselage. I simply plugged that box
into the firewall box, connected a cable and the heater tube. Haven't used it
yet, so I'm not sure how it's gonna work, but should be flying in a few days.
My biggest concern is there is no place to vent the heat overboard. It's going
to pre heat the mixer tube I imagine, which might effect the temperature of cool
air going in.. We'll see.
Paul Besing
----- Original Message ----
From: "halbenjamin@optonline.net" <halbenjamin@optonline.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 5, 2008 6:56:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat boxes for RV-4
Paul, Dale, Chuck,
Thanks for the help! I had seen Van's mixer, but never noticed the hole....Looks
like that setup should work.
Hal Benjamin
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat boxes for RV-4
> I've got this one and will be installing this in my RV-4
> hopefully this weekend. I'll post my flight test
> findings...what I like about it, is that I'll be able to plumb
> the air right to the air vents, and get the right temperature
> instead of having a heat blow on your feet.
>
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-4 N73DD
> Arizona
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Dale Ensing
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 5, 2008 6:34:16 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat boxes for RV-4
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hal,
>
> Have you checked out the mixer from
> Van's?
>
>
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1199460045-
> 284-291&browse=heatvent&product=chv-1
>
>
>
> It has an air bleed hole. Doesn't really dump all
> the unused hot air but works very well. I have one on my 6A with
> the hot air
> from two heat muffs in tandem. Have been flying for three years
> with this set up
> and no problems.
>
>
>
> Dale Ensing
>
> Aero Plantation
>
> Weddington NC
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From:
> halbenjamin@optonline.net
>
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 11:14
> PM
>
> Subject: RV-List: Heat boxes for
> RV-4
>
>
>
>
> Hello All,
>
>
>
> I'm looking for a heat box for an RV-4 with air mixing
> capability (cool
> air, heated, or mixed) that allows for dumping of unused
> heated air.
> Looking at the ads online, I see heat boxes that will dump
> unused hot
> air, and heat boxes that can mix warm with cool air, but I
> can't tell if any
> of these will do both. Any tips would be appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Hal Benjamin - RV-4
>
> Long Island, NY
>
> Finish kit & Spending money like a drunken sailor
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Looking for last minute shopping deals?
>
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Message 4
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The reason the US uses 120 is it is far less likely to kill you outright.
Higher voltage is what precipitates unusual path choices in semi conductors
and insulators which is technically what homo-sapiens are to an electron.
Most 120V fatalities are from the sudden impact upon the
floor/stove/ladder/couch/cat after falling.
If the house is wired correctly the toaster in the bath tub will do nothing
to the participants, the current will go down the drain literally.
Hollywierd, and in particular, CSI is very bad about this fact.
Hi V efficiency really only gets useful on long runs like from the nuke to
your city/town/commode/etc.
As one who has tasted 120, 220, and 480 as well as a few 80K ignition coils
and one mega K electric torpedo ray(as in fish, yes they really do exist),
the 120 tastes much better.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Synthetic brake fluid and Viton O-rings |
So I don't have to remove wheel pants to get brake ser. no., could someone
tell me the correct part number and supply source for the Viton 75 O-rings?
Can then have them on hand and ready. (RV8A)
Thanks.
Jimmy
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics@cencula.com>
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 12:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Synthetic brake fluid and Viton O-rings
> <matronics@cencula.com>
>
> For a *very* thorough writeup of DOT brake fluid and it's corrosive
> properties, please reference a NIST document:
>
> http://www.brakestrips.net/docs/nistir6233_absrpt.pdf
>
> The short answer seems to be that plain DOT fluid exceeds the corrosion
> resistance spec for aluminum by a factor of 10.
>
> Additionally, all automotive ABS modules that I'm aware of are made from
> aluminum which would further indicate that there's no problem with DOT
> brake fluid and aluminum compatibility.
>
> Mike Cencula
> RV-7A fuse
>
> Scott wrote:
>>
>> I was always under the impression that 5606 hydraulic was the way to go.
>> I thought DOT was corrosive to aluminum??? Might be FOS (full of sh**)
>> on this one, but I do seem to recall 5606 was the way to go
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer |
Be careful when mounting this fairing. It is (I believe) .025 material.
when placing it in position and drilling for the mounting screws, you
will notice that it calls for flat head #6 screws to mount. In
countersinking to make it flush, either with a dimple in the fairing, you
have to countersink the skin and it also countersinks into the longeron
that is behind it. sounds good except when you "tap" for the threads,
you only have about two threads left. (tap before you countersink). Had
I known this, I would have used pan head screws in place of the flat head
screws. That would have left me with nominal threads to hold the screws.
:-(((
Jim Nelson
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer |
Proseal is magic stuff but I had yet to consider it for retrofitting
foot steps - I'll keep it in mind!
Doug G.
On Mon, 2008-01-07 at 03:46 -0800, Rick Galati wrote:
> Yea, the fairing was temporarily held into into place using bits of
> tape. After about 24 hours of (partial) cure time, the excess proseal
> squeeze out was removed using a plastic scraper and MEK....ditto for
> the NACA vents, rudder cable fairings, footsteps, etc.
>
Message 8
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It's not a place to discuss this matter but the true reason why US uses
110V is much more simpler - we/you do that because Edison designed his
systems to produce and use 110V (going to higher voltage was very costly
back then). Later on as the network grew up it became more and more
harder to switch and finally people just dropped this idea because of
the cost.
--
Tomasz
Wheeler North wrote:
>
> The reason the US uses 120 is it is far less likely to kill you outright.
>
> Higher voltage is what precipitates unusual path choices in semi conductors
> and insulators which is technically what homo-sapiens are to an electron.
>
> Most 120V fatalities are from the sudden impact upon the
> floor/stove/ladder/couch/cat after falling.
>
> If the house is wired correctly the toaster in the bath tub will do nothing
> to the participants, the current will go down the drain literally.
> Hollywierd, and in particular, CSI is very bad about this fact.
>
> Hi V efficiency really only gets useful on long runs like from the nuke to
> your city/town/commode/etc.
>
> As one who has tasted 120, 220, and 480 as well as a few 80K ignition coils
> and one mega K electric torpedo ray(as in fish, yes they really do exist),
> the 120 tastes much better.
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Synthetic brake fluid and Viton O-rings |
The following website has the o-ring listed:
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3hq/Maintenance/maintenance.html
"Standard MS replacement for the caliper o-rings is MS28775-218.
The Viton O-ring upgrade is 2-218V-75 "
----- Original Message -----
From: "jimmy" <jimmy@jhill.biz>
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Synthetic brake fluid and Viton O-rings
>
>
> So I don't have to remove wheel pants to get brake ser. no., could someone
> tell me the correct part number and supply source for the Viton 75
> O-rings? Can then have them on hand and ready. (RV8A)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jimmy
>
> do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics@cencula.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 12:28 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Synthetic brake fluid and Viton O-rings
>
>
>> <matronics@cencula.com>
>>
>> For a *very* thorough writeup of DOT brake fluid and it's corrosive
>> properties, please reference a NIST document:
>>
>> http://www.brakestrips.net/docs/nistir6233_absrpt.pdf
>>
>> The short answer seems to be that plain DOT fluid exceeds the corrosion
>> resistance spec for aluminum by a factor of 10.
>>
>> Additionally, all automotive ABS modules that I'm aware of are made from
>> aluminum which would further indicate that there's no problem with DOT
>> brake fluid and aluminum compatibility.
>>
>> Mike Cencula
>> RV-7A fuse
>>
>> Scott wrote:
>>>
>>> I was always under the impression that 5606 hydraulic was the way to go.
>>> I thought DOT was corrosive to aluminum??? Might be FOS (full of sh**)
>>> on this one, but I do seem to recall 5606 was the way to go
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer |
I used 3/32 flush pop rivets on mine. I figured the rivets are pretty easy
to drill out and replace should the need arise.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim@juno.com>
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 3:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer
>
>
> Be careful when mounting this fairing. It is (I believe) .025 material.
> when placing it in position and drilling for the mounting screws, you
> will notice that it calls for flat head #6 screws to mount. In
> countersinking to make it flush, either with a dimple in the fairing, you
> have to countersink the skin and it also countersinks into the longeron
> that is behind it. sounds good except when you "tap" for the threads,
> you only have about two threads left. (tap before you countersink). Had
> I known this, I would have used pan head screws in place of the flat head
> screws. That would have left me with nominal threads to hold the screws.
> :-(((
>
>
> Jim Nelson
>
>
>
Message 11
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|
Edison also used DC (he thought AC was too dangerous), Tesla won that
fight!! Our present grid would not work with DC current, and until about
15 to 20 years ago the clocks would not have kept time (at least at an
affordable price).
It's not a place to discuss this matter but the true reason why US uses
110V is much more simpler - we/you do that because Edison designed his
systems to produce and use 110V (going to higher voltage was very costly
back then). Later on as the network grew up it became more and more
harder to switch and finally people just dropped this idea because of
the cost.
--
--
Ralph C. Hoover
RV7A
hooverra at verizon dot net
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Synthetic brake fluid and Viton O-rings |
Here ya go...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3hq/Maintenance/maintenance.html#BrakeFluid
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: "jimmy" <jimmy@jhill.biz>
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 12:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Synthetic brake fluid and Viton O-rings
>
>
> So I don't have to remove wheel pants to get brake ser. no., could someone
> tell me the correct part number and supply source for the Viton 75
> O-rings? Can then have them on hand and ready. (RV8A)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jimmy
>
> do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics@cencula.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 12:28 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Synthetic brake fluid and Viton O-rings
>
>
>> <matronics@cencula.com>
>>
>> For a *very* thorough writeup of DOT brake fluid and it's corrosive
>> properties, please reference a NIST document:
>>
>> http://www.brakestrips.net/docs/nistir6233_absrpt.pdf
>>
>> The short answer seems to be that plain DOT fluid exceeds the corrosion
>> resistance spec for aluminum by a factor of 10.
>>
>> Additionally, all automotive ABS modules that I'm aware of are made from
>> aluminum which would further indicate that there's no problem with DOT
>> brake fluid and aluminum compatibility.
>>
>> Mike Cencula
>> RV-7A fuse
>>
>> Scott wrote:
>>>
>>> I was always under the impression that 5606 hydraulic was the way to go.
>>> I thought DOT was corrosive to aluminum??? Might be FOS (full of sh**)
>>> on this one, but I do seem to recall 5606 was the way to go
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer |
I put nutplates on the inside of the longeron instead of tapping threads. I
did this on my 8A as well. My thought was threads in soft aluminum would
not last long.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (400 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James H Nelson
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 3:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fairing for underside of Horiz. Stabilizer
Be careful when mounting this fairing. It is (I believe) .025 material.
when placing it in position and drilling for the mounting screws, you
will notice that it calls for flat head #6 screws to mount. In
countersinking to make it flush, either with a dimple in the fairing, you
have to countersink the skin and it also countersinks into the longeron
that is behind it. sounds good except when you "tap" for the threads,
you only have about two threads left. (tap before you countersink). Had
I known this, I would have used pan head screws in place of the flat head
screws. That would have left me with nominal threads to hold the screws.
:-(((
Jim Nelson
Message 14
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| Subject: | Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week |
Well, it looks like I win the prize! I just called Ann at Vans since my
finish kit ships this week. I asked her who she had it scheduled with for
shipping and the cost and she told me ABF for $787.00!
I asked her to get a quote from several others and about a half-hour later
she called me back. The best price to ship from Aurora, OR to Mineral Bluff,
GA is $710 using FedEx Freight.
Unbelievable!
Bret Smith
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, Ga
www.FlightInnovations.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Heat boxes for RV-4 |
Hi Paul,
I'm working figuring out where to install all this stuff on the firewall, do you
have any pictures of your installation?
Hal
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat boxes for RV-4
> Installation was pretty easy. I had a scat tube running from
> the baffles to the firewall, into a box that splits to two scat
> tubes going to the air vents, just below the panel on either
> side of the fuselage. I simply plugged that box into the
> firewall box, connected a cable and the heater tube. Haven't
> used it yet, so I'm not sure how it's gonna work, but should be
> flying in a few days.
>
> My biggest concern is there is no place to vent the heat
> overboard. It's going to pre heat the mixer tube I imagine,
> which might effect the temperature of cool air going in.. We'll see.
>
> Paul Besing
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week |
It's getting to the point where it'd be cheaper to drive out and rent a
UHaul trailer.
Of just move to Oregon (g)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bret Smith
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 7:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week
Well, it looks like I win the prize! I just called Ann at Vans since my
finish kit ships this week. I asked her who she had it scheduled with for
shipping and the cost and she told me ABF for $787.00!
I asked her to get a quote from several others and about a half-hour later
she called me back. The best price to ship from Aurora, OR to Mineral Bluff,
GA is $710 using FedEx Freight.
Unbelievable!
Bret Smith
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, Ga
www.FlightInnovations.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week |
Bret,
Which part is unbelievable to you?
K.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Bret Smith
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 6:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week
Well, it looks like I win the prize! I just called Ann at Vans since
my
finish kit ships this week. I asked her who she had it scheduled with
for
shipping and the cost and she told me ABF for $787.00!
I asked her to get a quote from several others and about a half-hour
later
she called me back. The best price to ship from Aurora, OR to Mineral
Bluff,
GA is $710 using FedEx Freight.
Unbelievable!
Bret Smith
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, Ga
www.FlightInnovations.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week |
Bob Collins wrote:
>
> It's getting to the point where it'd be cheaper to drive out and rent a
> UHaul trailer.
>
> Of just move to Oregon (g)
>
Or, Van could move his operation somewhere a little more centrally
located. Like, say, Evansville, Indiana :-)
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A, tying up all of the loose ends, finish line is in sight.
Skylane Airport (3EV), Evansville, Indiana
Message 19
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| Subject: | Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week |
Is it being delivered to your home or the terminal? Retrieving the kit
shipments from the local (or nearest) trucking terminal can save you a
bundle.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bret Smith
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 7:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week
Well, it looks like I win the prize! I just called Ann at Vans since my
finish kit ships this week. I asked her who she had it scheduled with
for
shipping and the cost and she told me ABF for $787.00!
I asked her to get a quote from several others and about a half-hour
later
she called me back. The best price to ship from Aurora, OR to Mineral
Bluff,
GA is $710 using FedEx Freight.
Unbelievable!
Bret Smith
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, Ga
www.FlightInnovations.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Heat boxes for RV-4 |
Not yet...but it's dead center behind the engine, about 4-6 inches from the top
of the firewall. That goes into a box on the cabin side of the firewall with
two outlets going to the air vents.
I will try to get some pics soon.
Paul Besing
----- Original Message ----
From: "halbenjamin@optonline.net" <halbenjamin@optonline.net>
Sent: Monday, January 7, 2008 7:42:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat boxes for RV-4
Hi Paul,
I'm working figuring out where to install all this stuff on the firewall, do you
have any pictures of your installation?
Hal
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat boxes for RV-4
> Installation was pretty easy. I had a scat tube running from
> the baffles to the firewall, into a box that splits to two scat
> tubes going to the air vents, just below the panel on either
> side of the fuselage. I simply plugged that box into the
> firewall box, connected a cable and the heater tube. Haven't
> used it yet, so I'm not sure how it's gonna work, but should be
> flying in a few days.
>
> My biggest concern is there is no place to vent the heat
> overboard. It's going to pre heat the mixer tube I imagine,
> which might effect the temperature of cool air going in.. We'll see.
>
> Paul Besing
>
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Message 21
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| Subject: | Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week |
I don't know if it will help, but just for the heck of it, why don't you try
getting a quote from a freight consolidator/forwarder such as
www.efreightline.com? When I needed to ship engine parts from Little Rock, AR
to Connecticut a few months ago, this company was able to negotiate a much
better price than I could. When I get ready to order my 9A Finish kit later this
year, that is what I will be doing (again.) Good luck.
Jack Hilditch
RV-9A Wings done, Emp. Done,
Fuse past boat stage,
working on engine & electrics.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bret Smith
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 8:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week
Well, it looks like I win the prize! I just called Ann at Vans since my
finish kit ships this week. I asked her who she had it scheduled with for
shipping and the cost and she told me ABF for $787.00!
I asked her to get a quote from several others and about a half-hour later
she called me back. The best price to ship from Aurora, OR to Mineral Bluff,
GA is $710 using FedEx Freight.
Unbelievable!
Bret Smith
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, Ga
www.FlightInnovations.com
--
AM
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Finishing Kit Shipping Cost...this week |
In a message dated 01/07/2008 10:44:54 PM Central Standard Time,
wgill10@comcast.net writes:
Retrieving the kit
shipments from the local (or nearest) trucking terminal can save you a
bundle.
Ya got that right! Plus, unloading a semi at home can be a major hassle
unless you have a forklift handy- REALLY bad if the truck can't negotiate your
driveway and wants it unloaded at the street. I've collected my big stuff at the
terminal in Nashville where they can easily fork it onto the bed of a pickup
or trailer, making it much easier to deal with back at the shop. Another
option is Tony Partain- have you given him a holler?
Mark
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
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