Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:35 AM - Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location (Brian Kraut)
2. 09:06 AM - control vision exp2buss (Bert Murillo)
3. 09:35 AM - On fuel pumps and rivets (Wheeler North)
4. 10:01 AM - Re: control vision exp2buss (Carlos Hernandez)
5. 10:08 AM - Re: control vision exp2buss (Carlos Hernandez)
6. 10:20 AM - Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin (Ron Lee)
7. 10:25 AM - Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location (steveadams)
8. 10:29 AM - Re: Left OVers for Sale (Chuck Weyant)
9. 10:59 AM - Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin (Brian Kraut)
10. 11:42 AM - Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin (Greg Young)
11. 11:49 AM - Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin (Bill Boyd)
12. 11:52 AM - Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin (darnpilot@aol.com)
13. 12:41 PM - Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin (Chuck Jensen)
14. 01:57 PM - Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin (Arthur Glaser)
15. 03:28 PM - nose gear + 3 blade prop (tom sargent)
16. 03:46 PM - Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop (Ralph E. Capen)
17. 03:46 PM - Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin (Paul Besing)
18. 04:09 PM - Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop (Jeff Orear)
19. 04:31 PM - Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop (Ron Lee)
20. 04:49 PM - Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop (Darrell Reiley)
21. 05:46 PM - Re: control vision exp2buss (Carl Bell)
22. 07:50 PM - Re: Controlling defrost fans (mikerv6a@ao.com)
23. 08:16 PM - Re: On fuel pumps and rivets (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
24. 08:33 PM - Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
25. 08:44 PM - Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
26. 08:51 PM - Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Garmin 296/396 losing location |
I have opened my 396 with no problems. It has been a while and I don't
remember if there was a battery in there or not.
I used work in the marine electronics industry and with those products
Lowrance was the only one that had nitrogen filled cases. Don't know if
they ever did that on their aviation units or not. Would probably be way
overkill. I have been in lots and lots of pieces of marine electronics and
those with well designed enclosures (15 years ago they were few and far
between, but now nearly all have watertight enclosures) would not get
internal corrosion problems even around a salt water environment without any
other special protection.
If you are really anal about the ultimate in protection put in a cortec
VpCI-101 vapor corrosion inhibitor which can be found at
http://www.cortecvci.com/Products/products.php?showonly=Electric or a small
package of silica gel, but I wouldn't bother unless I was using my GPS on a
float equipped open cockpit ultralight off of salt water.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Burton
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 2:16 PM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location
I can't speak to the 396 series. The 195s were sealed like a waterproof
watch and are fairly waterproof. Garmin says that you can't open them up,
but I split mine in half to semi-permanently mount it into the instrument
panel with no problem. This was in the early days of GPS and people were
stealing them like crazy.
I have no idea if Garmin tries to purge them with Nitrogen before sealing
them. The best advice I have for those who live in humid climates it to
crank up the air conditioner and reassemble the GPS (I do this when putting
my camera into the underwater camera housing) with it near the dry cooled
air. Easy and works perfectly for diving. Should be good for the GPS too.
DaveB
Message 2
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| Subject: | control vision exp2buss |
Hi:
I am trying to send an E-mail to Control Vision, but I cannot get thru
any where. I cannot find the page which will show the, Exp2Buss"
unit....
Dopes any one have the correct E-mail for them, I tried the two I have
controlvision .com and sales@controlvision .com... nothing...
Thanks for the help..
bert
rv6a
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | On fuel pumps and rivets |
Blast the fuel pump with a really brief shot of shop air, or turn on boost
pump and spin engine to see if diaphragm action will open the check valves.
On rivets, while the number of times something is whacked does very slightly
alter the amount of cold working that occurs(as in less than 1%), the
primary factor that causes cold working is the amount of distortion, not the
number of blows. (This obviously varies greatly for differing materials, but
2117 aluminum used in 426/470 standard rivets will be equally strong if
crushed in 2, 3, 4, or 5 blows)
It does not matter which end you crush the rivet from. When a gun is
correctly used the first blow starts a cycle where the next blow and the
buck come back together in sequence, but it is the shop end shank that is
being formed, not the manufacturer's end. (hopefully) The reason we call
them bucking bars is that they are supposed to buck.
If the shop end is formed correctly as per AC43.13 it matters not how one
got there.
For -3's I use a pressure and bucking bar that gets me there in 3-4 blows,
(as in ba-da-bop) if possible, some bars need to be lighter to get into
those tiny places so the pressure gets backed off and it takes more blows.
For -4s I aim for 4-5 blows although they can be done in 3, but at that
pressure it is easier to lose it and over shoot causing the base metal to
distort.
There are many applications in really stiff frames where back riveting is
the only way to get there because the gun won't move the base assembly
enough to get proper bucking bar action.
For those of you new to this you should play with holding the bucking bar
too tight or stiffly, and then really loosely in thinner practice material
to see what that does to both the rivet and the base material. You'll be
amazed at how different the two look. It does take time to get a feel for
this... The problem with a longer sequence of blows is that I tend to hold
the bar too tight for that pressure getting high rivets and base metal
puckers.
I would also add, that for those of you who use squeezers, you are back
riveting every time you squeeze.
Happy MLK/Northridge Quake Day
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: control vision exp2buss |
Bert, try this one:
http://www.anywheremap.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=4
Carlos in AZ
Bert Murillo wrote:
>
> Hi:
>
> I am trying to send an E-mail to Control Vision, but I cannot get thru
> any where. I cannot find the page which will show the, Exp2Buss"
> unit....
>
> Dopes any one have the correct E-mail for them, I tried the two I have
> controlvision .com and sales@controlvision .com... nothing...
> Thanks for the help..
>
> bert
>
> rv6a
> do not archive
>
>
>
--
Carlos Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Structural Engineers Company
2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3
Chandler, AZ 85224
Phone: 480.968.8600
Fax: 480.968.8608
www.sec-engr.com
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged.
This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or
organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or
an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby
notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and
its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is
prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email
from your system.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: control vision exp2buss |
Just to add more info here is the link for the avionics support for the
EXPBUS2.
http://support.anywheremap.com/avionics.php
Carlos in AZ
Bert Murillo wrote:
>
> Hi:
>
> I am trying to send an E-mail to Control Vision, but I cannot get thru
> any where. I cannot find the page which will show the, Exp2Buss"
> unit....
>
> Dopes any one have the correct E-mail for them, I tried the two I have
> controlvision .com and sales@controlvision .com... nothing...
> Thanks for the help..
>
> bert
>
> rv6a
> do not archive
>
>
>
--
Carlos Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Structural Engineers Company
2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3
Chandler, AZ 85224
Phone: 480.968.8600
Fax: 480.968.8608
www.sec-engr.com
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged.
This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or
organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or
an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby
notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and
its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is
prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email
from your system.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin |
I just talked to Garmin tech support and the unit has to be returned
to Garmin to replace the internal battery. Cost is $250 USD (ouch).
Battery should last 10 years.
Personally this should be field replaceable or by a authorized battery
replacer for less than $20 USD.
Ron Lee
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location |
I have had the same issue with my 396 for the past 6 months or so whenever it has
been inactive for a few days. I found that when it can't find the satellites,
it gives you a screen with options like "start simulator" and "stored without
battery." When I select "stored without battery", it almost immediately starts
locking onto satellites normally. My unit is barely 18 months old and the
battery should not be going bad already.
Steve
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159592#159592
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Left OVers for Sale |
Hi Jeff, I'll take the Tempest Dry Vacuum Pump: P/N AA215CC List
$340.95 Asking $250
Rapco Vacuum Regulator: P/N RA2H3-12. List $168.95 Asking $125
Airborne Gyro Filter: List $37.25 Asking $25
All for $300. If you're interested give me a call. Providing the pump
will fit a O540 b4b5 that I have. According to the index I have access
too it says the 540B takes a AA3215CC. I assume this is the same as the
one you're selling?
Chuck Weyant
RV10 N805PC
805 878-1922
Santa Maria, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Linebaugh
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 8:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Left OVers for Sale
Folks,
I have some left over instruments and components for sale. All parts
are in new condition. Drop me a line and make me an offer?! I need gas
money!
Airflow Performance Maintainable Fuel Filter: List $132 asking $99
Tempest Dry Vacuum Pump: P/N AA215CC List $340.95 Asking $250
Rapco Vacuum Regulator: P/N RA2H3-12. List $168.95 Asking $125
Airborne Gyro Filter: List $37.25 Asking $25.
UMA Indicators:
UMA 1 1/4 Fuel Qty (2) List $132 each Asking $180 for both
UMA 1 1/4 Fuel PSI 0-30 PSI w/ senders and harness List $297 Asking
$199
UMA 1 1/4 Fuel PSI 0-15 PSI w/ senders and harness. List $307 Asking
$199
UMA 2 1/4 Manifold PSI. 10-35" Dual Diaphragm List $192 Asking $125
UMA 2 1/4 Tach. Requires Sender. Asking $125
UMA Suction List $94 Asking $69
UMA Oil Temp Probe List $63 Asking $45
Westach Dual Oil Temp/PSI: P/N 2DA3MM with Senders and Harnesses List
$300 asking $225
Quartz Clock: CA-7264 List $89 Asking $59.
Thanks!
_________________
Jeff Linebaugh
jeff@rocket-boys.com
F1 "Sport" #33, 100 hours!
Collierville, TN
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
1/21/2008 9:39 AM
Message 9
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| Subject: | Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin |
If your battery is dead you need to have it replaced before it leaks. Not
sure what the 96 has in it, but most things these days have lithium coin
cells with solder tabs on them. There are maybe a half dozzen common types.
When I owned my marine electronics shop we would replace the batteries in
nearly anything for about fourty bucks. Your local marine electronics shop
or avionics shop should be able to do it for you. Not all shops have techs
these days. Some just send everything to the factory so check with them
first.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 1:18 PM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
I just talked to Garmin tech support and the unit has to be returned
to Garmin to replace the internal battery. Cost is $250 USD (ouch).
Battery should last 10 years.
Personally this should be field replaceable or by a authorized battery
replacer for less than $20 USD.
Ron Lee
Message 10
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| Subject: | Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin |
They told me $350 for the 396 but even $250 is absurd for a battery
replacement. Has anyone cracked the case and determined the correct battery
for it? I won't be able to open mine until the weekend. It's worth a shot at
replacing it myself and if it doesn't fix it THEN send it in for the flat
rate repair.
Regards,
Greg Young
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
I just talked to Garmin tech support and the unit has to be returned
to Garmin to replace the internal battery. Cost is $250 USD (ouch).
Battery should last 10 years.
Personally this should be field replaceable or by a authorized battery
replacer for less than $20 USD.
Ron Lee
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin |
If mine continues to give trouble, I might volunteer to try a field repair
and post pics.
-Stormy
On Jan 21, 2008 1:55 PM, Brian Kraut <brian.kraut@engalt.com> wrote:
> If your battery is dead you need to have it replaced before it leaks.
> Not sure what the 96 has in it, but most things these days have lithium coin
> cells with solder tabs on them. There are maybe a half dozzen common
> types. When I owned my marine electronics shop we would replace the
> batteries in nearly anything for about fourty bucks. Your local marine
> electronics shop or avionics shop should be able to do it for you. Not all
> shops have techs these days. Some just send everything to the factory so
> check with them first.
>
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Ron Lee
> *Sent:* Monday, January 21, 2008 1:18 PM
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
>
> I just talked to Garmin tech support and the unit has to be returned
> to Garmin to replace the internal battery. Cost is $250 USD (ouch).
>
> Battery should last 10 years.
>
> Personally this should be field replaceable or by a authorized battery
> replacer for less than $20 USD.
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin |
Ouch is right!? Mine is a 496 (18 months old, battery failed at 12 months) and
if this is all the service I can expect from Garmin and their batteries, I will
have to seriously reconsider any future Garmin purchase.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Sent: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 2:38 pm
Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
They told me $350 for the 396 but even $250 is absurd for a battery replacement.
Has anyone cracked the case and determined the correct battery for it? I won't
be able to open mine until the weekend. It's worth a shot at replacing it myself
and if it doesn't fix it THEN send it in for the flat rate repair.
?
Regards,
Greg Young
?
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
I just talked to Garmin tech support and the unit has to be returned
to Garmin to replace the internal battery.? Cost is $250 USD (ouch).
?
Battery should last 10 years.
?
Personally this should be field replaceable or by a authorized battery
replacer for less than $20 USD.
?
Ron Lee
?
________________________________________________________________________
Message 13
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| Subject: | Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin |
When Garmin says "flat rate" of $350 just to look at the box, the flat
rate they are referencing is the rate at which your wallet will go flat.
For Garmin, internally, it is known as the "bulge rate"!!!
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
darnpilot@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
Ouch is right! Mine is a 496 (18 months old, battery failed at 12
months) and if this is all the service I can expect from Garmin and
their batteries, I will have to seriously reconsider any future Garmin
purchase.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Sent: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 2:38 pm
Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
They told me $350 for the 396 but even $250 is absurd for a battery
replacement. Has anyone cracked the case and determined the correct
battery for it? I won't be able to open mine until the weekend. It's
worth a shot at replacing it myself and if it doesn't fix it THEN send
it in for the flat rate repair.
Regards,
Greg Young
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [
mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com?> ] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
I just talked to Garmin tech support and the unit has to be returned
to Garmin to replace the internal battery. Cost is $250 USD (ouch).
Battery should last 10 years.
Personally this should be field replaceable or by a authorized battery
replacer for less than $20 USD.
Ron Lee
_____
<http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid
=aolcmp00050000000003> !
Message 14
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| Subject: | Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin |
I just spoke to garmin. Contact their aviation support section. Speak to Todd.
They may repair it out of warranty.
Chuck Jensen <cjensen@dts9000.com> wrote: When Garmin says "flat rate" of
$350 just to look at the box, the flat rate they are referencing is the rate at
which your wallet will go flat. For Garmin, internally, it is known as the
"bulge rate"!!!
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of darnpilot@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
Ouch is right! Mine is a 496 (18 months old, battery failed at 12 months) and
if this is all the service I can expect from Garmin and their batteries, I will
have to seriously reconsider any future Garmin purchase.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Sent: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 2:38 pm
Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
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They told me $350 for the 396 but even $250 is absurd for a battery replacement.
Has anyone cracked the case and determined the correct battery for it? I won't
be able to open mine until the weekend. It's worth a shot at replacing it
myself and if it doesn't fix it THEN send it in for the flat rate repair.
Regards,
Greg Young
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
I just talked to Garmin tech support and the unit has to be returned
to Garmin to replace the internal battery. Cost is $250 USD (ouch).
Battery should last 10 years.
Personally this should be field replaceable or by a authorized battery
replacer for less than $20 USD.
Ron Lee
---------------------------------
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 15
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| Subject: | nose gear + 3 blade prop |
I have a Catto 3-blade and am trying to put it on an RV-6A. It hadn't
occurred to me when I ordered the prop that it would make removing the
lower cowl more difficult. At the moment I'm reluctant to drain the
preservative oil out of my engine, so I haven't yet rotated the
crankshaft at all in order to put the prop in the optimal position for
cowl removal.
Can those that have a 6A + a 3-blade prop advise me if they had to do to
anything special to make the lower cowl removable? I have enlarged the
nose gear slot in the air scoop about as far forward as possible. (Well,
up to the forward plate nut that holds on the upper gear intersection
fairing. Maybe there shouldn't BE a nut plate there?)
Can the cowl be removed with the nose gear leg fairing in place, or does
that have to be removed first?
Thanks,
--
Tom S., RV-6A
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop |
Tom,
What I've done so far is to make mine easily removable without the nose gear
fairing in place. I have already templated a bottom cover to hide my
extended slot and my intersections fairing will probably attach to that.
I have a three-blade MT and it is a bugger to get off carefully enough to
keep from touching the prop. I take the single blade straight up (like you
probably will!).
I am contemplating making a lowering platform like I've seen posted
somewhere
I will be getting some prop blade covers soon too.
Ralph
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom sargent" <sarg314@comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 6:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: nose gear + 3 blade prop
>
> I have a Catto 3-blade and am trying to put it on an RV-6A. It hadn't
> occurred to me when I ordered the prop that it would make removing the
> lower cowl more difficult. At the moment I'm reluctant to drain the
> preservative oil out of my engine, so I haven't yet rotated the crankshaft
> at all in order to put the prop in the optimal position for cowl removal.
>
> Can those that have a 6A + a 3-blade prop advise me if they had to do to
> anything special to make the lower cowl removable? I have enlarged the
> nose gear slot in the air scoop about as far forward as possible. (Well,
> up to the forward plate nut that holds on the upper gear intersection
> fairing. Maybe there shouldn't BE a nut plate there?)
>
> Can the cowl be removed with the nose gear leg fairing in place, or does
> that have to be removed first?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom S., RV-6A
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin |
Yes, do escalate that. Their service is actually pretty good. And for a $2400
unit, I would hope that it would last longer than 12-18 months. Mine did have
a problem, but they fixed it quick, under warranty, quick return, etc. I think
it wasn't garmin's fault I think it was mine when I was building my new panel
I probably touched a hot wire to ground.
Paul Besing
----- Original Message ----
From: Arthur Glaser <artglaser@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 2:53:45 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
I just spoke to garmin. Contact their aviation support section. Speak to Todd.
They may repair it out of warranty.
Chuck Jensen <cjensen@dts9000.com> wrote: When Garmin says "flat rate" of
$350 just to look at the box, the flat rate they are referencing is the rate at
which your wallet will go flat. For Garmin, internally, it is known as the
"bulge rate"!!!
Chuck Jensen
-----Original
Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of darnpilot@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
Ouch is right! Mine is a 496 (18 months old, battery failed at 12 months) and
if this is all the service I can expect from Garmin and their batteries, I will
have to seriously reconsider any future Garmin purchase.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Sent: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 2:38 pm
Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
#AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 P.MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN:0in
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DIV.Section1 {} They told me $350 for the
396 but even $250 is absurd for a battery replacement. Has anyone cracked the
case and determined the correct battery for it? I won't be able to open mine until
the weekend. It's worth a shot at replacing it myself and if it doesn't fix
it THEN send it in for the flat rate repair.
Regards,
Greg Young
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
I just talked to Garmin tech support and the unit has to be returned
to Garmin to replace the internal battery. Cost is $250 USD (ouch).
Battery should last 10 years.
Personally this should be field replaceable or by a authorized battery
replacer for less than $20 USD.
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop |
Hi Tom: I have a 6A with a Catto. Removing the lower cowl is more of a
challenge than with a two blade, but still doable. I can take mine off
without removing the nosegear fairing. I put a couple layers of wide
masking tape on the forward edge to protect it while taking off/put on the
lower cowl. I have been thinking of making a velcoed sleeve for the same
purpose.
I have the Fairings Etc nosegear fairing, and it covers the required deeper
slot perfectly.
You will learn that there is a certain angle/removal path that works best to
remove the bottom cowl. Once you get that down, removal is no big deal. I
would advise to have a helper for the first few tries so you don't scratch
any paint.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom sargent" <sarg314@comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 5:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: nose gear + 3 blade prop
>
> I have a Catto 3-blade and am trying to put it on an RV-6A. It hadn't
> occurred to me when I ordered the prop that it would make removing the
> lower cowl more difficult. At the moment I'm reluctant to drain the
> preservative oil out of my engine, so I haven't yet rotated the crankshaft
> at all in order to put the prop in the optimal position for cowl removal.
>
> Can those that have a 6A + a 3-blade prop advise me if they had to do to
> anything special to make the lower cowl removable? I have enlarged the
> nose gear slot in the air scoop about as far forward as possible. (Well,
> up to the forward plate nut that holds on the upper gear intersection
> fairing. Maybe there shouldn't BE a nut plate there?)
>
> Can the cowl be removed with the nose gear leg fairing in place, or does
> that have to be removed first?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom S., RV-6A
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop |
I tape (painters tape) both bottom blades of the prop and the upper
forward portions of the lower cowl. As you lower the cowl you have to
move one side of the cowl to one side, maybe move the prop a little,
move that side of the cowl forwardand down then move the other prop blade
away
a little and it comes out. It is more difficult and I almost have to
redicover
the process each time.
Ron Lee
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop |
It really depends on your cowl attach method. I have
offset (shimmed) cowl mounts to the firewall with
nutplates. With this setup, it is not required to pull
forward on the cowl to drop and remove. Front comes
down and slide forward.
Darrell
--- Jeff Orear <jorear@new.rr.com> wrote:
> <jorear@new.rr.com>
>
> Hi Tom: I have a 6A with a Catto. Removing the
> lower cowl is more of a
> challenge than with a two blade, but still doable.
> I can take mine off
> without removing the nosegear fairing. I put a
> couple layers of wide
> masking tape on the forward edge to protect it while
> taking off/put on the
> lower cowl. I have been thinking of making a
> velcoed sleeve for the same
> purpose.
>
> I have the Fairings Etc nosegear fairing, and it
> covers the required deeper
> slot perfectly.
>
> You will learn that there is a certain angle/removal
> path that works best to
> remove the bottom cowl. Once you get that down,
> removal is no big deal. I
> would advise to have a helper for the first few
> tries so you don't scratch
> any paint.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P
> Peshtigo, WI
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "tom sargent" <sarg314@comcast.net>
> To: <RV-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 5:18 PM
> Subject: RV-List: nose gear + 3 blade prop
>
>
> <sarg314@comcast.net>
> >
> > I have a Catto 3-blade and am trying to put it on
> an RV-6A. It hadn't
> > occurred to me when I ordered the prop that it
> would make removing the
> > lower cowl more difficult. At the moment I'm
> reluctant to drain the
> > preservative oil out of my engine, so I haven't
> yet rotated the crankshaft
> > at all in order to put the prop in the optimal
> position for cowl removal.
> >
> > Can those that have a 6A + a 3-blade prop advise
> me if they had to do to
> > anything special to make the lower cowl removable?
> I have enlarged the
> > nose gear slot in the air scoop about as far
> forward as possible. (Well,
> > up to the forward plate nut that holds on the
> upper gear intersection
> > fairing. Maybe there shouldn't BE a nut plate
> there?)
> >
> > Can the cowl be removed with the nose gear leg
> fairing in place, or does
> > that have to be removed first?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > --
> > Tom S., RV-6A
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Message 21
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| Subject: | control vision exp2buss |
Here you go:
http://www.anywheremap.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=4
Carl W Bell
New Venture Consulting
Mobile: 803.640.2760
www.newventureconsulting.com
carlbell@gforcecable.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bert Murillo
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 12:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: control vision exp2buss
Hi:
I am trying to send an E-mail to Control Vision, but I cannot get thru
any where. I cannot find the page which will show the, Exp2Buss"
unit....
Dopes any one have the correct E-mail for them, I tried the two I have
controlvision .com and sales@controlvision .com... nothing...
Thanks for the help..
bert
rv6a
do not archive
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Controlling defrost fans |
Here is a simple two-speed fan control using an spdt switch. I'm using a
fan from DigiKey, cat no. 603-1055-ND that's 80mm square and 25.4mm
thick, about 3.15" x 1". It has ball bearings and relatively high airflow
for its size. Rated power at 12V for this fan is 6 watts. I measured fan
current at about 0.52A at 12.0 volts. The relationship between voltage and
current was close to linear down to 6V, and the fan continues to run at
still lower voltage. I chose 8V as a target votlage for "slow" speed, and I
found fan current to be about 0.33A at this voltage. Speed of these fans is
easily controlled either by providing variable voltage or by inserting a
resistor in series with the fan circuit. I used a 15-ohm 10-watt resistor
having an aluminum housing which includes tabs for mounting on a couple of
screws. This results in about 8.5 volts on the fan with 13.5V power bus
voltage. Power dissipation in this resistor is calculated to be about 1.7
watts. The reason for my "oversizing" the power rating of the resistor
I selected is that the built-in mounting provision for the 10W resistor is
very convenient. The resistor is DigiKey catalog no. 810F15RE-ND.
(Low Speed) Resistor
O--------------/\/\/\/------
/ |
-------------/ O (OFF) |
spdt switch |
w/ center-off O---------------------------
\
------------------------------- FAN--------
(Full Speed)
Mike Linse
RV-6A (canopy...)
Corvallis, OR
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: On fuel pumps and rivets |
In a message dated 01/21/2008 11:37:21 AM Central Standard Time,
wnorth@sdccd.edu writes:
Blast the fuel pump with a really brief shot of shop air, or turn on boost
pump and spin engine to see if diaphragm action will open the check valves.
Kinda watching the notes of fuel pump and was curious if it wasn't "possible"
that you might have the "IN" connected to the "OUT" and vice-versa? These
pumps can be configured either way- on the advice of a particularly astute
builder of whom I enjoy the benefit of being in my circle of intelligentsia (thanks
Charlie Bravo!) I ordered a pump with the in-out as out-in which allowed a
routing to the carb with an improved distance from the exhaust pipes. See:
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5457_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5457)
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin |
In a message dated 01/21/2008 1:51:25 PM Central Standard Time,
sportav8r@gmail.com writes:
I might volunteer to try a field repair and post pics.
Please do! This is the kind of stuff that turns us into veritable
techno-gods! ("Ah, man- my 295 is tits-up because it don't have a clue where it
is."
"Just replace the battery". "Huh?" "Sure- just pop it open and slam a fresh
one in there!" "Huh?" "Piece of cake, and it'll save you a $hitload of $$$"
"Wow, man- you're my hero!")
Mark do not archive
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop |
In a message dated 01/21/2008 5:29:53 PM Central Standard Time,
sarg314@comcast.net writes:
Can the cowl be removed with the nose gear leg fairing in place, or does
that have to be removed first?
I always pull the nose leg fairing before dropping the cowl- you'll scratch
that lovely paint otherwise- you mention that you've slotted it forward to a
nutplate (I assume is used to attach the upper fairing). Is this a fairings-etc
piece? (nice part, BTW!) If so, mayhaps you could remove the platenut at
the front and install one on either side of the slot?
Mark - RV-6A "Mojo" with O-320, Catto 3-blade
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/)
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop |
In a message dated 01/21/2008 5:49:08 PM Central Standard Time,
recapen@earthlink.net writes:
I will be getting some prop blade covers soon too.
Hi Ralph- I took some of the leftover outdoor deck carpeting I used for my
floors and cut some pieces long enough to wrap around the prop blades- a wrap of
duct tape around each end and you wind up with nifty slip-on blade
protectors! I made 2 of these and have used them many times- quite handy and
super-cheep!
Mark
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
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