Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:05 AM - Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop (tom sargent)
2. 07:37 AM - Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin (Ron Lee)
3. 09:54 AM - Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin (Bill Boyd)
4. 02:07 PM - Re: Spot PLB was: Cheaper 406mhz alternative ()
5. 04:23 PM - Re: Re: Spot PLB was: Cheaper 406mhz alternative (Ron Lee)
6. 07:58 PM - Re: Heat boxes for RV-4 (halbenjamin@optonline.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop |
Mark:
Yes, the nose gear upper intersection fairing is one I made myself.
Not thinking about the prop, I put 2 nut plates on each side and one
forward to hold it on. If I remove that forward one and put one to each
side of it, I could extend the slot only another 3/4 inch forward before
it would extend out past the margin of the fairing. I might need more
mods in this area. Ugh! Fiberglass.
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 01/21/2008 5:29:53 PM Central Standard Time,
> sarg314@comcast.net writes:
>
>
> Can the cowl be removed with the nose gear leg fairing in place, or
> does
> that have to be removed first?
>
> I always pull the nose leg fairing before dropping the cowl- you'll
> scratch that lovely paint otherwise- you mention that you've slotted it
> forward to a nutplate (I assume is used to attach the upper
> fairing). Is this a fairings-etc piece? (nice part, BTW!) If
> so, mayhaps you could remove the platenut at the front and install one
> on either side of the slot?
>
> Mark - RV-6A "Mojo" with O-320, Catto 3-blade
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin |
I might volunteer to try a field repair and post pics.
Perhaps it would help to determione a test to see if the internal
battery is the problem.
Also determine if Garmin will replace the battery for much less that
$250 or $350 as
someone suggested.
As for the internal battery test, perhaps make sure that the date and
time are correct
by going outside and getting a good lock. Then go inside, remove the AA
batteries,
let it sit for 30 minutes or so. Then replace the batteries and with
the unit under a desk
or similar to prevent signal acquisition, check the date/time. If not
within a few seconds
of the correct value...suspect the internal battery.
Ron Lee
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin |
No need to hide under a desk; just remove the quadrifilar antenna and she's
blind.
On Jan 22, 2008 10:28 AM, Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net> wrote:
> I might volunteer to try a field repair and post pics.
>
>
> Perhaps it would help to determione a test to see if the internal battery
> is the problem.
>
> Also determine if Garmin will replace the battery for much less that $250
> or $350 as
> someone suggested.
>
> As for the internal battery test, perhaps make sure that the date and time
> are correct
> by going outside and getting a good lock. Then go inside, remove the AA
> batteries,
> let it sit for 30 minutes or so. Then replace the batteries and with the
> unit under a desk
> or similar to prevent signal acquisition, check the date/time. If not
> within a few seconds
> of the correct value...suspect the internal battery.
>
> Ron Lee
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Spot PLB was: Cheaper 406mhz alternative |
Thanks Larry James for the PIREP on
"SPOT". The only thing is you need someone
to receive the email alerts and be expecting
you.
The cost of an Artex 406ME is $1000. A PLB
is about $600 to $700, so I don't see the big
expense difference.
Don't wait for "D" battery 406ELTs because
batteries are cheaper. All new 406 elts will
have battery packs. Yes they cost more, but
with a 5yr life, the yearly cost is not bad. As
more companies compete price will become
lower for base unites, but bats will cost more.
Better than PLB are the EPIRB? These are
rescue beacons that are not "Personal" or
meant to be portable. They are larger and tend
to work in water, some (not all) even have hydro-
switch activation, aka they're for boats. They look
like more "serious" ELT's than a PLB. The cost,
depending on manufacture and model is about
the same as a PLB. Google 406 EPIRB:
http://www.landfallnavigation.com/-slb24.html
PLB's have small batteries and small
antennas. Their capabilities are less than a
solid mounted aviation 406 ELT . I love the
PLB idea and think it could save your life, just
that they are not quite as powerful as the full
meal deal aviation ELT's. (Yes they claim the
same power but the portable antenna is a big
draw back). That is why I think the larger
battery and antenna on the EPIRB's will be
better in my opinion. Still no G-switch.
Modify a PLB with a G switch? I guess you
could, but suspect that might violate some of
the international SAR communities rules. The
BIG problem with the old ELT's where faults
alarms. If you have a faults alarm with a
modified G-switch PLB there might be some
fines to pay. George
>From: "Larry James"
>Subject: RV-List: Spot PLB was: Cheaper 406mhz
>alternative
>We have the Spot and used it this weekend. We had
>the first non-raining day
>in quite some time and so took advantage of the
>situation and went flying.
>My wife was in the backseat; initiated some alerts
>from the Spot; and
>received email notices on her Blackberry with time,
>location and the
>message. Everything worked as it is supposed to.
---------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Spot PLB was: Cheaper 406mhz alternative |
Thanks Larry James for the PIREP on
"SPOT". The only thing is you need someone
to receive the email alerts and be expecting
you.
Response: There is a HELP function that should not rely upon someone
you know.
Ron Lee
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Heat boxes for RV-4 |
Hi Paul,
Thanks for the update. I'm going to try it as well. Do you get a good volume of
air flow?
Hal
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat boxes for RV-4
> Update....installed and flew the "Y" selector box from Van's.
> Works as advertised. I just use one part of it, only using one
> cable. The heat works with my robbins muff, but isn't as warm
> as I would like. I don't fault the selector box for that, just
> the airflow/springs/etc etc that have been in the archives.
> Just need the right volume of air/temperature combination.
>
> Recommend the "Y" box.works perfectly. I can't see a need for
> the second valve they include with it. I left mine out. Also,
> I have it plumbed directly into my air vents on either side,
> just below the panel.
>
> Paul Besing
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: "halbenjamin@optonline.net"
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, January 8, 2008 8:16:08 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat boxes for RV-4
>
>
> Thanks Paul.
>
>
>
> Hal Benjamin
>
> Do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Paul Besing
> Date: Tuesday, January 8, 2008 12:53 am
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat boxes for RV-4
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>
> > Not yet...but it's dead center behind the engine, about 4-6
> > inches from the top of the firewall. That goes into a box on
> > the cabin side of the firewall with two outlets going to the
> air
> > vents.
> > I will try to get some pics soon.
> >
> > Paul Besing
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: "halbenjamin@optonline.net"
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Sent: Monday, January 7, 2008 7:42:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat boxes for RV-4
> >
> >
> > Hi Paul,
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm working figuring out where to install all this stuff on
> the
> > firewall, do you have any pictures of your installation?
> >
> >
> >
> > Hal
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Paul Besing
> > Date: Monday, January 7, 2008 10:51 am
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat boxes for RV-4
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >
> > > Installation was pretty easy. I had a scat tube running from
> > > the baffles to the firewall, into a box that splits to two
> > scat
> > > tubes going to the air vents, just below the panel on either
> > > side of the fuselage. I simply plugged that box into the
> > > firewall box, connected a cable and the heater tube. Haven't
> > > used it yet, so I'm not sure how it's gonna work, but should
> > be
> > > flying in a few days.
> > >
> > > My biggest concern is there is no place to vent the heat
> > > overboard. It's going to pre heat the mixer tube I imagine,
> > > which might effect the temperature of cool air going in..
> > We'll see.
> > >
> > > Paul Besing
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Looking for last minute shopping deals?
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
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