Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:11 AM - Re: Gear Leg SB box size (Chris and Kellie Hand)
2. 02:10 AM - Re: Spraying UV-smooth prime (Bill Settle)
3. 06:05 AM - Re: The FAA, County of Regsistration,Zip Code and Taxes (Bob Collins)
4. 08:12 AM - Re: Starter Problem (Greg Young)
5. 09:15 AM - Carpet Security (sam ray)
6. 09:38 AM - Carpet Security (James H Nelson)
7. 10:24 AM - Re: Carpet Security (d wntzl)
8. 10:26 AM - Re: Carpet Security (Jeff Orear)
9. 12:44 PM - Re: Clamping fire sleeve on fuel hose (Michael Kraus)
10. 12:51 PM - Re:Clamping fire sleeve on fuel hose (glen matejcek)
11. 04:35 PM - Carpet Security (Richard Dudley)
12. 06:01 PM - Re: Carpet Security (steve)
13. 06:08 PM - Kit Panels LLC (Paul Rice)
14. 06:25 PM - Re: Carpet Security (Bobby Hester)
15. 06:35 PM - Re: Carpet Security (Steven DiNieri)
16. 06:37 PM - Re:Clamping fire sleeve on fuel hose (Emrath)
17. 06:49 PM - Re: Kit Panels LLC (Darrell Reiley)
18. 07:48 PM - Re: Kit Panels LLC (Paul Rice)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Gear Leg SB box size |
GV -
Harmon recently changed his recommendation of building the plywood box
due to UPS charging higher freight than for cardboard boxes. He
recommends strapping the leg to a piece of plywood that you then put in
a cardboard box with packing material around it. I built a cardboard
box from a big one I bought at Office Depot, but he sent me the leg back
in a 40" x 6" x 6" cardboard box with the leg strapped to the same piece
of plywood I sent it out in.
I just put my gear leg back on today so still have the plywood and box
if you want it. I see you are in Silicon Valley and I'm not too far
from you; I'm in Mountain View if you want the shipping materials I
have. I flattened the box, but the wood holds it in shape and you can
use strapping tape to close it up again.
I shipped the leg to him last Monday morning and got it back on Friday
same week. Very quick turnaround!
Chris
RV-6A
chrisandkellie.hand@comcast.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Vanremog@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Leg SB box size
I would be most interested in hearing the recommended inside
dimensions of the box needed to ship my gear to Langair if anyone has
this handy.
I want to get the box built now if I get a spare moment (I've been
traveling a lot for work), so that when I finally do get a chance to
take the gear off sometime in mid-February (when I normal do my annual),
I can get it sent off without delay.
-Thx
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 883hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape in the new year.
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Spraying UV-smooth prime |
Could ambient temperature be a factor? I have never used the stuff you guys are
discussing, but I found out in my first few experiences with epoxy primer that
it is certainly easier to spray in summer vs winter.
Bill Settle
-8 Wings
-------------- Original message from tom sargent <sarg314@comcast.net>: --------------
>
> Yes, I thinned it as it says to on the can, but it has a very high
> solids content. It's really a filler. I think the term "primer" is
> misused in this case. You still have to spray real primer on top of the
> smooth prime after you sand it. It is a good filler, though.
>
> mike humphrey wrote:
> >
> >
> > I spray AKZO epoxy primer unthinned with a DeVilbiss HVLP and 1.2.
> > Can't imagine Poly UV needing larger than 1.5. 1.8 would be the next
> > size to try. Toy around with your needle & air pressure settings. Is
> > your needle clean?
> > Mike H 9A/8A
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Kraut"
> > To:
> > Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 11:49 PM
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Spraying UV-smooth prime
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Did you thin it before you tried spraying? I have sprayed it with the
> >> Harbor Freight HVLP gun and whatever nozzle it comes with with good
> >> results.
> >>
> >> Brian Kraut
> >> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> >> www.engalt.com
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of tom sargent
> >> Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 10:54 PM
> >> To: RV-list@matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV-List: Spraying UV-smooth prime
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
<html>
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<P>Could ambient temperature be a factor? I have never used the stuff you
guys are discussing, but I found out in my first few experiences with epoxy primer
that it is certainly easier to spray in summer vs winter.</P>
<P> </P>
<P>Bill Settle</P>
<P>-8 Wings<BR></P>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message from tom sargent <sarg314@comcast.net>:
-------------- <BR><BR><BR>> --> RV-List message posted by: tom
sargent <SARG314@COMCAST.NET><BR>> <BR>> Yes, I thinned it as it says to
on the can, but it has a very high <BR>> solids content. It's really a filler.
I think the term "primer" is <BR>> misused in this case. You still have
to spray real primer on top of the <BR>> smooth prime after you sand it.
It is a good filler, though. <BR>> <BR>> mike humphrey wrote: <BR>>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "mike humphrey" <BR>> > <MIKE109G6@INSIDECONNECT.NET><BR>>
> <BR>> > I spray AKZO epoxy primer unthinned
with a DeVilbiss HVLP and 1.2. <BR>> > Can't imagine Poly UV needing
larger than 1.5. 1.8 would be the next <BR>> > size to try. Toy around
with your needle & air pressure settings. Is <B
R>>
> your needle clean? <BR>> > Mike H 9A/8A <BR>> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Kraut" <BRIAN.KRAUT@ENGALT.COM><BR>> > To: <RV-LIST@MATRONICS.COM><BR>> > Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 11:49 PM <BR>> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Spraying UV-smooth prime <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <BRIAN.KRAUT@ENGALT.COM><BR>> >> <BR>> >> Did you thin it before you tried spraying? I have sprayed it with the <BR>> >> Harbor Freight HVLP gun and whatever nozzle it comes with with good <BR>> >> results. <BR>> >> <BR>> >> Brian Kraut <BR>> >> Engineering Alternatives, Inc. <BR>> >> www.engalt.com <BR>> >> <BR>> >> -----Original Message----- <BR>> >> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com <BR>> >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of tom sargent <BR>> >> Se
nt: Su
for y
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Message 3
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Subject: | The FAA, County of Regsistration,Zip Code and Taxes |
// I would it is not there money it is YOURS and they TAKE/steal it!
// FREEDOM IS NOT FREE - THANK THE AMERICAN SOLDIER FOR YOURS!
Couldn't ignore the irony (g)
do not arcxhive
Message 4
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That click is the solenoid trying to fire but doesn't have enough oomph to
make good contact. There's a good chance it's the connections to the relay
or the ground or the relay itself. Cheapest first step is clean and tighten
all the connections. Then replace the relay. A Bendix problem is more likely
to spin but not engage (or disengage).
Regards,
Greg Young
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 10:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Starter Problem
I've had a problem lately where the first time I hit the starter switch on
the first start of the day, all I get is a "click", but the prop doesn't
even twitch. I assume the noise is the starter relay.
On the second or third attempt, the starter will engage and off we go.
How do I diagnose this? Is it the relay, or something with the Prestolite
starter, maybe the bendix not extending?
BTW, I know there are better starters out there, but I need weight out
front, so the Prestolite is a good way to go for me..
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
Message 5
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Steve
Any recommendations on where to get 1845, 1825, 1830
online?
Sam
80262
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
Message 6
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Richard,
I thought that Van's had a web site where someone had solved that
problem. I believe that it was glued down. The bottom of the carpet was
covered with contact glue and allowed to dry and then glued down with a
second layer of glue that is allowed to almost dry. The contact cement
provided the attachment to the aluminum floor and having the glue put on
the backing of the carpet made sure that the joint would be very tough.
Jim Nelson
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Carpet Security |
Hello
I also used foam for insulation (heat and noise) but decided rather than carpet
to install an aluminum floor over it. R & L half cut to fit - .016 Alum
(McMaster Carr), 4 screws each side, lightweight, doesn't shift, easy to keep
clean.
David Wentzell, Port St. Joe, FL
RV6 - 233DW - 280 hrs.
---------------------------------
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Carpet Security |
This is a timely thread, as I too have been dealing with my carpeting
getting all bunched up. I submit the following as a possible fix that I
wanted to bounce off the list....
I have used (as many others have) Flightline interior's kit, which included
a very stiff, durable styrofoam for insulating the floor. It is thick
enough to be flush with with foor stiffeners, and the carpet is then laid
over it. Mine is held in place just by the snug fit the separate pieces
have between the floor stiffeners.
I suggest that a channel of aluminum is made or pruchased to fit the
thickness of that foam. Then rivet that to the underside of the carpet at
the edge which goes up against the wing spar and positioned between where
the floor stiffeners are. This could be done by several pop rivets with
washers on the carpet side, or a strip of aluminum can be used to sandwich
the carpet between it and the aluminum channel.
Get the carpet in postion fore, aft, side to side, and then lift the pack
edge of the foam up from between the stiffeners to expose its aft edge.
Insert the aft edge of the foam into the channel and then press the whole
works back down between the stiffeners.
This should keep the carpet from shifting forward, which is the only
direction that mine wants to move. The foam shouldn't buckle up by the
force on its back edge, because your feet will still be pressing down on it
as well. This is all relative to getting in and out.
You can then use carpet tape or even velcro on the forward edge and the
sides.
How does this sound, folks? I'd appreciate any comments, refinements.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Peshtigo, WI
Message 9
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Subject: | Clamping fire sleeve on fuel hose |
As mentioned, go to the auto parts store and get a tool for tightening CV boot
clamps. Mine was around $10 and has worked very well for 4 planes worth of custom
hoses.....
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer@charter.net>
Sent: 01/27/08 9:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: Clamping fire sleeve on fuel hose
How do you clamp Aeroquip fire sleeve?
Spruce has a clamp on the fire sleeve page along with an "Economy Fire
sleeve Clamp Tool
P/N 12-00684 ..$17.70" but I don't get it? I bought one of the clamps (P/N
05-02652) but don't really understand how it is used, except it would
obviously take a special tool to put it on.
I bought a tool at Oshkosh called a "ClampTite" that makes clamps out of
safety wire. That looks like it might make a nice finished looking clamp
over the fire sleeve.
What are others doing?
TIA,
Allen Fulmer
RV7 Wiring/Plumbing
Eggenfellner Subaru E6T on firewall
N808AF reserved
Alexander City, AL
256-329-2001
Message 10
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Subject: | RE:Clamping fire sleeve on fuel hose |
Hi Allen-
> How do you clamp Aeroquip fire sleeve?
I also have a clamp tite, figured out how to use it, and realized I was at
least as well off just neatly 'strangling' the end of the fire sleeve with
a couple of turns of safety wire. I sealed the ends of the sleeve with
high temp rtv to keep the fiberglass from becoming saturated with anything
flammable.
I also have a couple of the 'official' clamps, and might have used then if
I had known NAPA sold the tool for them, but the safety wire solution works
very well and can be undone / redone very easily, as opposed to the fancy
permanent clamps.
SS worm drive hose clamps will also do a fine job technically, but are
somewhat more unsightly, heavier, more expensive, and each one presents a
fine place to shed a little blood the next time you reach into the engine
compartment.
YMMV, FWIW, etc
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.ne
Message 11
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Thanks to all who responded so far with a great variety of 9 approaches.
I believe that I will try the Velcro approach next. It appears the
easiest for me to me to try now while I have things apart for my annual.
If that works for me I'll stop there. If not, I'll try one of the others
that requires some more drilling and riveting.
Best regards,
Richard Dudley
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Carpet Security |
Sam,
No idea....I haven't looked for them. They may be available at a local
fabric store.
Steve
sam ray wrote:
>
> Steve
> Any recommendations on where to get 1845, 1825, 1830
> online?
>
> Sam
> 80262
>
>
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
>
>
Message 13
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|
Hey, does anyone know if Kit Panels is still in business? Their phone numb
er doesn't work, and they have not responded to my email. I have a friend l
ooking to buy a module from them.
Thanks,
Paul Rice
RV8
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Carpet Security |
I have Classic Aero's carpet, it has thick sound proofing foam glued to
the back and it is slotted to fit between the angles. It comes with
velcro but I didn't use it.
It stays in place pretty good since the thick foam is glued to it, it
keeps it from bunching up.
http://www.classicaerodesigns.com/
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my flying RV7A web page:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Richard Dudley wrote:
>
> Thanks to all who responded so far with a great variety of 9 approaches.
> I believe that I will try the Velcro approach next. It appears the
> easiest for me to me to try now while I have things apart for my annual.
> If that works for me I'll stop there. If not, I'll try one of the
> others that requires some more drilling and riveting.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Richard Dudley
>
>
Message 15
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|
try
http://www.atrim.com/Page106.html
there is a snap kit #K22920--$6.95 EA that installs the snaps onto the
carpet.
if you can find somehow to install the snaps on the carpet i will give you
the rest of the stuff to do it..
Steven dinieri
capsteve@adelphia.net
Iflyrv10.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam ray
> Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 12:11 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Carpet Security
>
>
> Steve
> Any recommendations on where to get 1845, 1825, 1830 online?
>
> Sam
> 80262
>
>
>
>
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Clamping fire sleeve on fuel hose |
I purchased a band clamp pliers for CV joints in the aviation isle of
AutoZone. The man said I could just rent it if I wanted to, but it was only
$10. Put the clamp around the firesleeve and hose, squeeze the clamp ends
with the pliers and you're done.
Marty in Brentwood TN
Time: 06:43:44 PM PST US
From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer@charter.net>
Subject: RV-List: Clamping fire sleeve on fuel hose
How do you clamp Aeroquip fire sleeve?
Spruce has a clamp on the fire sleeve page along with an "Economy Fire
sleeve Clamp Tool P/N 12-00684 ..$17.70" but I don't get it? I bought one
of the clamps (P/N
05-02652) but don't really understand how it is used, except it would
obviously take a special tool to put it on.
I bought a tool at Oshkosh called a "ClampTite" that makes clamps out of
safety wire. That looks like it might make a nice finished looking clamp
over the fire sleeve.
What are others doing?
TIA,
Allen Fulmer
RV7 Wiring/Plumbing
Eggenfellner Subaru E6T on firewall
N808AF reserved
Alexander City, AL
256-329-2001
Marty
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Kit Panels LLC |
If you're talking about Affordable Panels, they're in
a temporary closed position at this time.
Darrell
do not archive
--- Paul Rice <rice737@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Hey, does anyone know if Kit Panels is still in
> business? Their phone number doesn't work, and they
> have not responded to my email. I have a friend
> looking to buy a module from them.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul Rice
> RV8
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
Message 18
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|
I know about the Affordable Panels situation, I was wondering about Kit Pan
els LLC out in Everette, Washington.
Do not archive
> Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 18:46:16 -0800> From: lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Kit Panels LLC> To: rv-list@matronics.com> > --> RV-L
ist message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>> > If yo
u're talking about Affordable Panels, they're in> a temporary closed positi
================> > >
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