Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:26 AM - Re: LOE - Land of Enchantment Fly-In (5T6) - Dona Ana County, Santa Teresa, NM (Russell Daves)
2. 08:27 AM - Re: Cowl hinges for my RV-4 (John Barrett)
3. 09:21 AM - WOW - What a difference (Charles Brame)
4. 09:52 AM - Control Vision Exp2Buss Service (bert murillo)
5. 10:11 AM - Re: WOW - What a difference (Bob)
6. 12:03 PM - Re: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service (Paul Besing)
7. 12:34 PM - Re: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service (Dean Pichon)
8. 01:35 PM - Re: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service (Dale Ensing)
9. 01:52 PM - Control Vision Customer Service (John Fasching)
10. 03:34 PM - Re: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service (David Leonard)
11. 03:57 PM - Re: WOW - What a difference (Kyle Boatright)
12. 04:13 PM - Re: WOW - What a difference (Konrad L. Werner)
13. 04:52 PM - RV-10 QB wings for sale (Jud)
14. 04:58 PM - Re: WOW - What a difference (Kyle Boatright)
15. 05:32 PM - Re: WOW - What a difference (Konrad L. Werner)
16. 05:40 PM - Re: RV Nose Gear SB Question (Vanremog@aol.com)
17. 06:02 PM - Vapor clouds was Re: WOW - What a difference (Cooling/Plenums) (Sherman Butler)
18. 06:26 PM - Savannah, GA? (Kevin Horton)
19. 09:11 PM - Re: RV Nose Gear SB Question (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: LOE - Land of Enchantment Fly-In (5T6) - Dona Ana County, |
Santa Teresa, NM
LOE 2008 will most likely be the first weekend in October.
Russ Daves
N710RV - Flying RV-10
N65RV - Sold RV-6A
N_____?? - RV-7 waiting on QB Fuselage
Check out the following posts from VAFWWW:
According to the latest posting to www.swrfi.com , the "powers that be"
have moved the SWRFI to the second weekend of October, starting in 2008.
__________________
Mike Reddick
VAF#153
RV6A N167CW 600+ HRS
Ft Worth, TX (T67)
Stan Shannon (SWRFI) emailed me about the new dates a couple of weeks
back asking for input. I gave him Red Marron and Larry Vetterman's
contact info (the two guys that have historically chosen the LOE date)
and asked him to contact them.
Although I'm not certain he did call, I would assume that Red and Larry
would not chose to have LOE on the same weekend as SWRFI. I'm certain
Stan knows that if he has SWRFI and LOE competing it will really eat
into the RV attendance at his event.
The beauty of LOE is its mobility, so I'm pretty sure there will not be
a conflict.
Best,
Doug
__________________
Doug Reeves
Owner: Delta Romeo, LLC.
I talked with Larry V and Red both and was told LOE was the first
weekend
in Oct.--therefore we chose the second weekend even though we wanted the
first weekend. We do not want to conflict with this great event.
Stan Shannon
CEO-EAA TEXAS
RV-6, RV-9, Rv-9a
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: Cowl hinges for my RV-4 |
Hello Dean,
Thanks for your inquiry about Carbinge products. I have attached a
couple
of photos that I hope will make some of the concepts a little more
clear.
Please see answers to your questions and some commentary below:
From: Dean Pichon [mailto:deanpichon@msn.com]
I am in the middle of converting the cowl attachment on my RV-4 from
(aluminum) panio hinges to Skybolt fasteners and am considering making a
mid-stream change to your hinges. I would like to clarify a couple of
issues
with you.
I installed rolled hinges in my -4 furing initial construction. I have
broken a number of eyelets both the curved hinge section along the upper
firewall and the horizontal section joining the upper and lower cowl
halves.
I have installed Skybolt fasteners along the firewall. I have the
following
questions:
1. To improve asthetics and reduce cowl wear, I install my hinge
pins
from inside the cockpit of the -4. The pins are inserted through holes
in
the fuselage skin behind the cowl cheeks. The pins go through holes in
the
flanges of the cheek pieces and enter the hinge strips from the aft
section
of the cowling. For this most part, this has worked well, except there
seems
to be some relative motion between the cheeks and the cowl. The eyelets
that
have broken are on the most aft section of hinge and the holes in the
cheek
flanges have become elongated. If I use hinges again, I will consider
attaching a bushing of some sort to the cheek flange to better support
the
pin. Are you are of any -4's that use your hinges and insert the pins
from
the cockpit? Can you supply longer hinge pins (about 6') to support this
installation?
Answer:
I don=92t know of RV-4=92s with this config, but there was a builder
assist shop
in San Jose that just closed last month. They were doing this with
Lancair
Legacy=92s. I supplied the Carbinge but not supply the pins because
there was
not a large enough demand to warrant stocking the material and frankly I
couldn=92t see the purpose. Pins were 6 foot long for that a/c too.
I understand your desire to make the result esthetic and that is one of
our
prime goals with Carbinge. That is where the Carbinge Keepers come in.
With this product you have a drop dead simple method of removal and
replacement and you have only one small hole at the point of each pin
placement. The hole is about 3/16=94 in diameter and the head of the
allen
screw can pretty much sit flush with this hole. (see photo of Keeper
installed in a wing tip)
2. Can you recommend alternate techniques for attaching the cowl
sections to the cheek pieces? In typical RV installations, does the
hinge
pin terminate in the hinge or does in continue into a hole in the
aircraft?
Answer:
Unfortunately I don=92t know what =93cheek pieces=94 are. If you refer
to the
bend in the cowl as it approaches the propeller, Carbinge is ideal for
this.
You simply bond the hinge to the cowl stopping its forward extent
wherever
you wish without making the radius too small. You can play with this at
installation and get a feel by hand fitting the hinge to the cowl part.
3. Your website lists only 4' sections. Do you offer hinges in 3' or
6'
lengths?
Answer:
We do not. We used to sell smaller pieces, but found this just drives
up
the cost for everyone so we just sell the 4=92 lengths. Should the
market
present the demand for longer pieces we could meet that need. Currently
for
applications using a longer hinge, we recommend using a four foot piece
and
aligning a smaller one to get the length needed. As long as you insert
a
pin to align the two pieces at installation this works fine.
4. Are the hinges in-stock?
Answer:
Yes.
Comment:
I do not think extruded aluminum hinges are a good or adequate solution
for
any joining of composite materials in airplanes for all the reasons I
have
stated on the RV-List. However, they are far superior to any kind of
rolled
hinge that I know of.
Hope this helps.
John Barrett
2/18/2008
5:50 AM
Message 3
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| Subject: | WOW - What a difference |
I also have had high CHT temps. Even with cooler outside air, my #3
CHT will exceed 450 in a long fast cruise climb. Unlike you, I have
high oil temps which I associate with the high CHT. I haven't checked
the CHT probes for temp accuracy, but I did check the oil temp probe
and it was right on. My oil temp usually settles around 195 in
cruise, but will approach the red line in a long climb - again with
cool outside temps. It does cool down in cruise as do the CHTs. After
about 15 - 20 minutes at cruise, all my CHTs are within about 25
degrees of each other with a low of 375 and a high of 400 - all a bit
on the high side.
I only have about 20 hours on a rebuilt, zero time IO-320, so I am
hoping a few more hours of break in will solve all the temp problems.
I am planning on increasing the SCAT tube to my oil cooler plenum
from a 3 inch to a 4 inch.
I found this thread interesting as my baffle is very tight but I do
have about a 3/8th to 5/16 gap between my cowl and the spinner.
Something to work on in the future.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
-------------------------------------------
> Time: 10:49:42 AM PST US
> From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
>
> Hi Bobby,
>
>
> I have posted about this many times. My oil temps have always been
> way too
> low around 165 with a door mostly closed behind the oil cooler
> mounted on
> the back of the baffles like the drawings. My CHT's have always
> been very
> high. This last summer I was pushing 478 after climb out and I reduce
> throttle and RPM as soon as I reach about 500 feet AGL. In cruise
> I was
> getting more like 430 to 450. I installed baffles and managed to
> get the
> climb out down to 458 and the cruise to 420. Obviously I see lower
> numbers
> in cooler temps like I posted below, but it still isn't very good.
> I have
> yet to find anything that would make mine so much different than
> other RV's.
>
>
> Tim
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Control Vision Exp2Buss Service |
Hello:
Hope some one can help,,, only those with the Exp2Buss, I haves tried to contact
some one at
Control Vission sent E mails, nothing... terrible service...
I recently found, that after flying a few minutes, I get a complete electrical
failure... ;no good..
As I said I have the exp2 buss unit from "Control Vision", I had sent the unit
before to be checked, which
cost me money. they return it saying is was OK>..
Once I reset the master switch, everything goes to normal...
Everything has been installed as per Manual,.....
Any one has any idea, what to check or why? how is your Installation works for
you....
Thanks
bert
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
>I also have had high CHT temps. Even with cooler outside air, my #3
>CHT will exceed 450 in a long fast cruise climb. Unlike you, I have
>high oil temps which I associate with the high CHT. I haven't checked
>the CHT probes for temp accuracy, but I did check the oil temp probe
>and it was right on. My oil temp usually settles around 195 in
>cruise, but will approach the red line in a long climb - again with
>cool outside temps. It does cool down in cruise as do the CHTs. After
>about 15 - 20 minutes at cruise, all my CHTs are within about 25
>degrees of each other with a low of 375 and a high of 400 - all a bit
>on the high side
>D
I don't know how to say this very well, but here goes. Tight baffles
may cause cooling problems.
I had this problem when trying to balance the CHTs, as # 3 and #4
cylinders were hotter that #1 and #2. The solution from someone on
the list was to put a washer spacer between the back cylinders and
the baffle. This would allow more cooling air to pass around those
cylinders. This made a big difference for me.
BTW, I have trouble getting oil temps to reach 180 degrees, and I can
usually get it there after a long climb, usually to 8-10K feet. I
have a stock cowl and stock baffles.
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service |
To me, I never understood the benefit of a solid state unit like that. My opinion
is that if an electrical system works great with good old fashioned breakers
and buss bars, go with it. I would never trust an entire electrical system
to one unit. I say if you have the means to put in a buss bar and breakers or
even better, switch/breaker combos, I so go for it and ditch the expbus.
Paul Besing
----- Original Message ----
From: bert murillo <robertrv607@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 10:49:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service
Hello:
Hope some one can help,,, only those with the Exp2Buss, I haves tried to contact
some one at
Control Vission sent E mails, nothing... terrible service...
I recently found, that after flying a few minutes, I get a complete electrical
failure... ;no good..
As I said I have the exp2 buss unit from "Control Vision", I had sent the unit
before to be checked, which
cost me money. they return it saying is was OK>..
Once I reset the master switch, everything goes to normal...
Everything has been installed as per Manual,.....
Any one has any idea, what to check or why? how is your Installation works for
you....
Thanks
bert
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
Message 7
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| Subject: | Control Vision Exp2Buss Service |
I can't speak to Control Vision customer service, but I have been very sati
sfied with the Exp2Bus. I have 400hrs on mine with no problems to date. D
oes complete electrical failure meet no power to the Exp or no power from t
he Exp. The former suggests a problem other than the Exp, while the latter
suggest either the primary relay is bad, or every resettable fuse is tripp
ing which seems rather unlikely.
Good luck,
-List: Control Vision Exp2Buss ServiceTo: rv-list@matronics.com
Hello:
Hope some one can help,,, only those with the Exp2Buss, I haves tried to c
ontact some one at
Control Vission sent E mails, nothing... terrible service...
I recently found, that after flying a few minutes, I get a complete elect
rical failure... ;no good..
As I said I have the exp2 buss unit from "Control Vision", I had sent t
he unit before to be checked, which
cost me money. they return it saying is was OK>..
Once I reset the master switch, everything goes to normal...
Everything has been installed as per Manual,.....
Any one has any idea, what to check or why? how is your Installation works
for you....
Thanks
bert
Be a better friend, newshound, and
_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_0120
08
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service |
Bert,
It sounds like the master relay on your EXP buss may be opening after a
few minutes. This could be because of a poor connection in the
energizing wiring circuit to the circuit board mounted relay since
Control Vision said the unit checked out OK. Suggest you check out all
the crimp connectors in the circuit and the master switch.
I have been flying for three years with the EXP bus in my 6A with no
problems but I have an external master relay and did not use the EXP
circuit board mounted relay.
Paul,
I agree with you...Knowing what I know now about designing and
installing 'a good old fashioned buss bar and breakers' I would not use
the EXP but it has served me well so far. Doing it again I would
probably go with auto type blade fuses.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service
To me, I never understood the benefit of a solid state unit like that.
My opinion is that if an electrical system works great with good old
fashioned breakers and buss bars, go with it. I would never trust an
entire electrical system to one unit. I say if you have the means to
put in a buss bar and breakers or even better, switch/breaker combos, I
so go for it and ditch the expbus.
Paul Besing
----- Original Message ----
From: bert murillo <robertrv607@yahoo.com>
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 10:49:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service
Hello:
Hope some one can help,,, only those with the Exp2Buss, I haves tried
to contact some one at
Control Vission sent E mails, nothing... terrible service...
I recently found, that after flying a few minutes, I get a complete
electrical failure... ;no good..
As I said I have the exp2 buss unit from "Control Vision", I had
sent the unit before to be checked, which
cost me money. they return it saying is was OK>..
Once I reset the master switch, everything goes to normal...
Everything has been installed as per Manual,.....
Any one has any idea, what to check or why? how is your Installation
works for you....
Thanks
bert
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Be a better friend, newshound, and
Message 9
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| Subject: | Control Vision Customer Service |
I am sorry to hear about troubles with the electrical unit, but thought
another view of CV's customer service might be appropriate.
I have been using Anywhere Map for some time. When I got the XM weather
unit from them I had lots of problems getting it goinig. A VP called me
personally and worked with me over the telephone to get it going. After
a while another problem developed and I returned the unit and they
repaired it, returned it free and called me to follow up to make certain
it was working.
I have also used their direct inter-communication service where you type
in a problem or questions and someone gets on line and answers you back
immediately, and you exchange info and its almost like working on the
telephone, except that you use the internet to go back and forth with
solving the problem.
I really can't say I have ever had anything but good service from them.
And, no, I don't own any of their stock !
FWIW
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service |
Bert,
I agree with Dale. I have an exp buss and although it has some nice
features, I would not use it again despite the fact that mine has worked
well for 260hrs. Like Dale I also have an external master because my
current demands sometimes exceed the 40 amp limit of the exp buss. I have
the Exp buss master wired in parallel to provide some redundancy for a
failed master solenoid.
One thing that I have noticed is that the rated amperages of the fuses are
not good for their rated values at continuous duty. My 100W landing lights
would trip the 10A "landing light" circuit after about 5 min of continuous
use. So I had to install a separate buss, separate fuses and switches for
all my high current items.
So, back to your problem. I would be very suspicious that you are exceeding
40 amps and tripping the master circuit somehow. Don't forget that battery
recharging ALONE can exceed 40 amps if your battery is low (I see as much as
85 amps for a while if I have let my battery get really low - though normal
daytime draw is around 20 amps(electric ignition, coils, pumps, panel etc)).
Also, Like Dale mentioned - really double check the crimps and connections
on the Exp buss ground and master switch ground. If you have the switches
mounted to the board like I do, then you have noticed how tough it is to
tighten and loosen those screws on the side of the switches to attach the
outgoing wires. Those screws often will work loose if there is any sway in
that wire. Loose screws there will cause trips of the circuits.
Finally, I have ongoing problems with aluminum shavings getting onto or
under the board and causing shorts. As much as I try to build a sticky-tape
fortress anytime I am cutting or drilling on or around the panel, there is
alway a shaving that gets lodged under the board the wreaks havoc until I
can find and dislodge it.
Good Luck,
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
On Feb 18, 2008 1:31 PM, Dale Ensing <densing@carolina.rr.com> wrote:
> Bert,
> It sounds like the master relay on your EXP buss may be opening after a
> few minutes. This could be because of a poor connection in the energizing
> wiring circuit to the circuit board mounted relay since Control Vision
> said the unit checked out OK. Suggest you check out all the crimp connectors
> in the circuit and the master switch.
> ec
> I have been flying for three years with the EXP bus in my 6A with no
> problems but I have an external master relay and did not use the EXP circuit
> board mounted relay.
>
> Paul,
> I agree with you...Knowing what I know now about designing and installing
> 'a good old fashioned buss bar and breakers' I would not use the EXP but it
> has served me well so far. Doing it again I would probably go with auto type
> blade fuses.
> Dale Ensing
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Monday, February 18, 2008 2:58 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service
>
> To me, I never understood the benefit of a solid state unit like that.
> My opinion is that if an electrical system works great with good old
> fashioned breakers and buss bars, go with it. I would never trust an entire
> electrical system to one unit. I say if you have the means to put in a buss
> bar and breakers or even better, switch/breaker combos, I so go for it and
> ditch the expbus.
>
> Paul Besing
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: bert murillo <robertrv607@yahoo.com>
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 10:49:46 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service
>
> Hello:
>
> Hope some one can help,,, only those with the Exp2Buss, I haves tried to
> contact some one at
> Control Vission sent E mails, nothing... terrible service...
>
> I recently found, that after flying a few minutes, I get a complete
> electrical failure... ;no good..
>
> As I said I have the exp2 buss unit from "Control Vision", I had sent
> the unit before to be checked, which
> cost me money. they return it saying is was OK>..
>
> Once I reset the master switch, everything goes to normal...
>
> Everything has been installed as per Manual,.....
>
> Any one has any idea, what to check or why? how is your Installation works
> for you....
>
> Thanks
>
> bert
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Brame" <chasb@satx.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
>
> I also have had high CHT temps. Even with cooler outside air, my #3 CHT
> will exceed 450 in a long fast cruise climb. Unlike you, I have high oil
> temps which I associate with the high CHT. I haven't checked the CHT
> probes for temp accuracy, but I did check the oil temp probe and it was
> right on. My oil temp usually settles around 195 in cruise, but will
> approach the red line in a long climb - again with cool outside temps. It
> does cool down in cruise as do the CHTs. After about 15 - 20 minutes at
> cruise, all my CHTs are within about 25 degrees of each other with a low
> of 375 and a high of 400 - all a bit on the high side.
>
> I only have about 20 hours on a rebuilt, zero time IO-320, so I am hoping
> a few more hours of break in will solve all the temp problems. I am
> planning on increasing the SCAT tube to my oil cooler plenum from a 3
> inch to a 4 inch.
>
> I found this thread interesting as my baffle is very tight but I do have
> about a 3/8th to 5/16 gap between my cowl and the spinner. Something to
> work on in the future.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
I had the same problem with high CHT's on climb-out on #3. Usually I saw
425 degrees, and on a hot/heavy day I'd see almost 450 on initial climb out.
A 1" or so cylinder blocker in front of #1 tamed the problem and is a fast
fix which has minimal impact on the temperatures on #1.
You can probably find more details in the archives (I made this mod several
years ago).
As far as CHT's going down with break-in, I wouldn't bet on it. 99% of the
heat in a cylinder is from the combustion process and that isn't going to
change.
Good luck!
Kyle Boatright
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
Hi Kyle,
I don't understand how a 1" air blocker in front of the # 1 would
increase your cooling on the rearward # 3. I can see how the blocker
would make both cylinders become more even in temps, but more by running
# 1 a bit hotter instead of # 3 cooler... Could you explain this to me
please.
Thanks,
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
<kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Brame" <chasb@satx.rr.com>
To: "RV-List RV-List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
>
> I also have had high CHT temps. Even with cooler outside air, my #3
CHT
> will exceed 450 in a long fast cruise climb. Unlike you, I have
high oil
> temps which I associate with the high CHT. I haven't checked the
CHT
> probes for temp accuracy, but I did check the oil temp probe and it
was
> right on. My oil temp usually settles around 195 in cruise, but
will
> approach the red line in a long climb - again with cool outside
temps. It
> does cool down in cruise as do the CHTs. After about 15 - 20
minutes at
> cruise, all my CHTs are within about 25 degrees of each other with
a low
> of 375 and a high of 400 - all a bit on the high side.
>
> I only have about 20 hours on a rebuilt, zero time IO-320, so I am
hoping
> a few more hours of break in will solve all the temp problems. I am
> planning on increasing the SCAT tube to my oil cooler plenum from a
3
> inch to a 4 inch.
>
> I found this thread interesting as my baffle is very tight but I do
have
> about a 3/8th to 5/16 gap between my cowl and the spinner.
Something to
> work on in the future.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
I had the same problem with high CHT's on climb-out on #3. Usually I
saw
425 degrees, and on a hot/heavy day I'd see almost 450 on initial
climb out.
A 1" or so cylinder blocker in front of #1 tamed the problem and is a
fast
fix which has minimal impact on the temperatures on #1.
You can probably find more details in the archives (I made this mod
several
years ago).
As far as CHT's going down with break-in, I wouldn't bet on it. 99%
of the
heat in a cylinder is from the combustion process and that isn't going
to
change.
Good luck!
Kyle Boatright
Message 13
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| Subject: | RV-10 QB wings for sale |
It is with deep regret that I must sell my RV-10 factory QB wings. The wing kit
has only been inventoried with no work done. They are in great shape. I do not
now, have the time or money to continue.
The Van's shipping box was beginning to fall apart so they now are on a movable
dolly, based on ones I saw on the Internet. This means they will need to be picked
up or shipped by someone like Tony Partain. I live about 45 miles north
of Los Angeles. The wings are in excellent shape with only a little dust, no dings
or dents all rivets look good. Also, I only have just the wings. I am asking
$11,000 US dollars.
Please contact me through my Yahoo email account, C210rg@yahoo.com
I work very long hours, but I will get back to you soon.
Thanks,
Jud
c210rg@yahoo.com
--------
Jud Parker
c210rg@yahoo.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164905#164905
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
Konrad,
How/why does it work? Good question, and I didn't really expect much in
the way of results when I tried it, but figured it was about $0.25 worth
of material and 10 minutes of work to find out. My belief at the time
was that everything inside the pressurized area inside the cowl
expeiences the same pressure which causes similar cooling flow around
each cylinder. I didn't see how reducing the airflow around one
cylinder would translate to a significant improvement in temperatures on
one other cylinder (as opposed to all three). But it did.
Since it does work, my <new> theory is that the deflector restricts air
movement around #1 both by deflecting some air up and over the cylinder
and by restricting the flow down the front face of #1. Since air has
mass and wants to conserve its momentum, much of the "surplus" air
continues moving back to cylinder #3, giving that cylinder a
disproportionate amount of the surplus airflow.
If you follow this link, you'll find my post on the subject after I
installed the blocker on my airplane:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=136069920?KE
YS=cylinder_&_blocker_&_boatright?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=
1631014668?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
Kyle Boatright
----- Original Message -----
From: Konrad L. Werner
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
Hi Kyle,
I don't understand how a 1" air blocker in front of the # 1 would
increase your cooling on the rearward # 3. I can see how the blocker
would make both cylinders become more even in temps, but more by running
# 1 a bit hotter instead of # 3 cooler... Could you explain this to me
please.
Thanks,
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
<kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Brame" <chasb@satx.rr.com>
To: "RV-List RV-List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
>
> I also have had high CHT temps. Even with cooler outside air, my
#3 CHT
> will exceed 450 in a long fast cruise climb. Unlike you, I have
high oil
> temps which I associate with the high CHT. I haven't checked the
CHT
> probes for temp accuracy, but I did check the oil temp probe and
it was
> right on. My oil temp usually settles around 195 in cruise, but
will
> approach the red line in a long climb - again with cool outside
temps. It
> does cool down in cruise as do the CHTs. After about 15 - 20
minutes at
> cruise, all my CHTs are within about 25 degrees of each other
with a low
> of 375 and a high of 400 - all a bit on the high side.
>
> I only have about 20 hours on a rebuilt, zero time IO-320, so I am
hoping
> a few more hours of break in will solve all the temp problems. I
am
> planning on increasing the SCAT tube to my oil cooler plenum from
a 3
> inch to a 4 inch.
>
> I found this thread interesting as my baffle is very tight but I
do have
> about a 3/8th to 5/16 gap between my cowl and the spinner.
Something to
> work on in the future.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
I had the same problem with high CHT's on climb-out on #3. Usually
I saw
425 degrees, and on a hot/heavy day I'd see almost 450 on initial
climb out.
A 1" or so cylinder blocker in front of #1 tamed the problem and is
a fast
fix which has minimal impact on the temperatures on #1.
You can probably find more details in the archives (I made this mod
several
years ago).
As far as CHT's going down with break-in, I wouldn't bet on it. 99%
of the
heat in a cylinder is from the combustion process and that isn't
going to
change.
Good luck!
Kyle Navigator Photoshare, and
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
nbsp; via the Web
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
nbsp; generous bsp;
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
================
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
Kyle,
Thank you for the insight! This is rather interesting...
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 5:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
Konrad,
How/why does it work? Good question, and I didn't really expect much
in the way of results when I tried it, but figured it was about $0.25
worth of material and 10 minutes of work to find out. My belief at the
time was that everything inside the pressurized area inside the cowl
expeiences the same pressure which causes similar cooling flow around
each cylinder. I didn't see how reducing the airflow around one
cylinder would translate to a significant improvement in temperatures on
one other cylinder (as opposed to all three). But it did.
Since it does work, my <new> theory is that the deflector restricts
air movement around #1 both by deflecting some air up and over the
cylinder and by restricting the flow down the front face of #1. Since
air has mass and wants to conserve its momentum, much of the "surplus"
air continues moving back to cylinder #3, giving that cylinder a
disproportionate amount of the surplus airflow.
If you follow this link, you'll find my post on the subject after I
installed the blocker on my airplane:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=136069920?KE
YS=cylinder_&_blocker_&_boatright?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=
1631014668?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
Kyle Boatright
----- Original Message -----
From: Konrad L. Werner
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
Hi Kyle,
I don't understand how a 1" air blocker in front of the # 1 would
increase your cooling on the rearward # 3. I can see how the blocker
would make both cylinders become more even in temps, but more by running
# 1 a bit hotter instead of # 3 cooler... Could you explain this to me
please.
Thanks,
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
<kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Brame" <chasb@satx.rr.com>
To: "RV-List RV-List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
>
> I also have had high CHT temps. Even with cooler outside air, my
#3 CHT
> will exceed 450 in a long fast cruise climb. Unlike you, I have
high oil
> temps which I associate with the high CHT. I haven't checked
the CHT
> probes for temp accuracy, but I did check the oil temp probe
and it was
> right on. My oil temp usually settles around 195 in cruise, but
will
> approach the red line in a long climb - again with cool outside
temps. It
> does cool down in cruise as do the CHTs. After about 15 - 20
minutes at
> cruise, all my CHTs are within about 25 degrees of each other
with a low
> of 375 and a high of 400 - all a bit on the high side.
>
> I only have about 20 hours on a rebuilt, zero time IO-320, so I
am hoping
> a few more hours of break in will solve all the temp problems.
I am
> planning on increasing the SCAT tube to my oil cooler plenum
from a 3
> inch to a 4 inch.
>
> I found this thread interesting as my baffle is very tight but I
do have
> about a 3/8th to 5/16 gap between my cowl and the spinner.
Something to
> work on in the future.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
I had the same problem with high CHT's on climb-out on #3.
Usually I saw
425 degrees, and on a hot/heavy day I'd see almost 450 on initial
climb out.
A 1" or so cylinder blocker in front of #1 tamed the problem and
is a fast
fix which has minimal impact on the temperatures on #1.
You can probably find more details in the archives (I made this
mod several
years ago).
As far as CHT's going down with break-in, I wouldn't bet on it.
99% of the
heat in a cylinder is from the combustion process and that isn't
going to
change.
Good luck!
Kyle Navigator Photoshare, and
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
nbsp; via the Web
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: RV Nose Gear SB Question |
Has anyone so far bothered to do a weight and re-balance calculation on this
SB change for a 6A? I'm not changing anything else except installing the
new fork and I had the nose gear strut re-machined at Langair. I know the new
fork is only a little lighter and the machined gear is only a little lighter
but it is way out in front, so it would seem a prudent thing to ask, or is
everyone just re-weighing?
-Thx
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 887hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference (Cooling/Plenums) |
Perhaps it is Prandtl-Glauert singularity. Some neat pictures with the external
links!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prandtl-Glauert_singularity
Kyle Boatright <kboatright1@comcast.net> wrote:
As a side note, it was humid here in N. GA this morning. Humid enough that I pulled
prop contrails for the entire length of my takeoff roll and probably another
3,000 feet down the runway on climb-out. It was kinda neat seeing a swirling
vortex wrapped around the airplane...
KB
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Wings
N497GS reserved
Carlsbad, NM
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
Message 18
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I'm going to be in Savannah, GA for two weeks, arriving on Sunday Feb. 24th.
I expect to be working long hours during the week, but I may have a free day
on the weekend of March 1-2. If I have any free time, I would be interested
in meeting up with any local RVers.
Kevin Horton
Ottawa, Canada
RV-8 Final Assembly
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: RV Nose Gear SB Question |
Has anyone so far bothered to do a weight and re-balance calculation on this
SB change for a 6A? I'm not changing anything else except installing the
new fork and I had the nose gear strut re-machined at Langair. I know the new
fork is only a little lighter and the machined gear is only a little lighter
but it is way out in front, so it would seem a prudent thing to ask, or is
everyone just re-weighing?
-Thx
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 887hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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