Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:44 AM - Re: Gas tank repair (Doug Gray)
2. 03:05 AM - Re: Gas tank repair (Dale Ensing)
3. 05:41 AM - Re: gas tank repair (Glen Matejcek)
4. 06:01 AM - Firewall foreward cooling air needs (Ralph E. Capen)
5. 08:37 AM - Re: Gas tank repair (Terry Watson)
6. 12:44 PM - Firewall foreward cooling air needs (James H Nelson)
7. 02:06 PM - Canopy Slide block (Charles Brame)
8. 03:10 PM - Comment period on FAA ADS-B Out NPRM ends in one week (Ron Lee)
9. 03:14 PM - Re: Gas tank repair (Louis Willig)
10. 05:19 PM - Re: Gas tank repair (Kevin Horton)
11. 05:21 PM - Re: Gas tank repair (rv6n@optonline.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Gas tank repair |
Get at it with plastic steak knives. Cheap and effective and doesn't
marr the alclad.
Doug Gray
On Sun, 2008-02-24 at 18:05 -0500, Louis Willig wrote:
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
> A few months ago, many of you gave me a lot of help/instruction to
> remove my leaky tank. I finally removed it today, with a lot less
> problems than I anticipated. BUT, I am finding that the large (6")
> access plate is not so obedient. I carefully removed all 12 screws.
> Now what? The plate is prosealed in place, and has lots of
> additional sealant from previous repairs. I removed most of the added
> repair sealant while trying not to gauge away at the plate and rib.
> Since I am not the builder, I am not sure what I am now looking at.
> Looking at the edge of the access plate, it appears to be two layers
> of aluminum resting on the rib material. Is there a reinforcement
> ring between the access plate and the rib material? (I am calling the
> ends of the tank "ribs" since they in fact are acting as such).
> Whatever is there, the access plate is firmly attached with proseal
> to the rib or ring below.
>
> Anyway, I do not want to destroy this tank. How do I lift the access
> plate away? Do I need to soften up the proseal? Can this be done?
> Help!! I love you guys. Help! :-)
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> -
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Gas tank repair |
A method we have used successfully. when doing the SB fix on the pick up
line, is to use a very flexible putty knife sharpened a bit on the end edge.
Work it in between the plate and the ring. It helps if you can warm the
Proseal.(heat lamp or sun) After you have one side loose you can apply some
pressure to the plate by pulling/lifting on the loose side which will help
get the knife in around the remaining edge. A little bending of the plate is
OK when you are pulling on it as it will straighten when you release the
pressure.
Dale Ensing
EAA TC & FA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 6:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Gas tank repair
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
> A few months ago, many of you gave me a lot of help/instruction to remove
> my leaky tank. I finally removed it today, with a lot less problems than I
> anticipated. BUT, I am finding that the large (6") access plate is not so
> obedient. I carefully removed all 12 screws. Now what? The plate is
> prosealed in place, and has lots of additional sealant from previous
> repairs. I removed most of the added repair sealant while trying not to
> gauge away at the plate and rib. Since I am not the builder, I am not sure
> what I am now looking at. Looking at the edge of the access plate, it
> appears to be two layers of aluminum resting on the rib material. Is there
> a reinforcement ring between the access plate and the rib material? (I am
> calling the ends of the tank "ribs" since they in fact are acting as
> such). Whatever is there, the access plate is firmly attached with proseal
> to the rib or ring below.
>
> Anyway, I do not want to destroy this tank. How do I lift the access plate
> away? Do I need to soften up the proseal? Can this be done? Help!! I love
> you guys. Help! :-)
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> -
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: gas tank repair |
Hey Guys-
RE: >Louis: I used a heat gun to warn and soften the Proseal. I understand the
>fuel tank is full of vapors and I kept the heat gun away from the tank
>access plate as possible but still heat the plate sufficiently to soften the
>Proseal and used a razor knife under the plate, MEK to clean. Hope this
>helps, Dan.
If MEK will soften the proseal, how about standing the tank on it's outboard end
with MEK on the inbd end. Put some sort of cover over the butt rib to limit
evaporation. If you let the tank sit a day ot two, would the access panel come
free easily, or would you just cause other problems?
Glen Matejcek
Message 4
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| Subject: | Firewall foreward cooling air needs |
Here's the setup:
IO360B1F6 with CS MT prop, AFP injection, LASAR ignition, Vetterman crossover heater/mufflers
in a SamJames cowled/plenum'd RV6A.
I'm planning on putting the oil cooler behind the #4 cylinder with its cutout for
airflow feeding the oil cooler.
My heater/mufflers require cooling air over them even when they're not heating
the cockpit according to Larry.
I'm thinking that taking the cooling air for both heater/mufflers from the back
plate behind the #2 cylinder should be OK - since I'm taking a chunk from each
side.
Is this a valid thought? - or does it not matter since I have a plenum.
For the cabin heat air, would it be better to take the air from the vertical plate
or the 40 degree angled plate below it?
Thanks,
Ralph
Message 5
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You might try a plastic putty knife. I have a set of three that were very
cheap but seem to be just the right hardness and stiffness to scrape gunk
off of aluminum without damaging the aluminum.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Ensing
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 3:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gas tank repair
A method we have used successfully. when doing the SB fix on the pick up
line, is to use a very flexible putty knife sharpened a bit on the end edge.
Work it in between the plate and the ring. It helps if you can warm the
Proseal.(heat lamp or sun) After you have one side loose you can apply some
pressure to the plate by pulling/lifting on the loose side which will help
get the knife in around the remaining edge. A little bending of the plate is
OK when you are pulling on it as it will straighten when you release the
pressure.
Dale Ensing
EAA TC & FA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 6:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Gas tank repair
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
> A few months ago, many of you gave me a lot of help/instruction to remove
> my leaky tank. I finally removed it today, with a lot less problems than I
> anticipated. BUT, I am finding that the large (6") access plate is not so
> obedient. I carefully removed all 12 screws. Now what? The plate is
> prosealed in place, and has lots of additional sealant from previous
> repairs. I removed most of the added repair sealant while trying not to
> gauge away at the plate and rib. Since I am not the builder, I am not sure
> what I am now looking at. Looking at the edge of the access plate, it
> appears to be two layers of aluminum resting on the rib material. Is there
> a reinforcement ring between the access plate and the rib material? (I am
> calling the ends of the tank "ribs" since they in fact are acting as
> such). Whatever is there, the access plate is firmly attached with proseal
> to the rib or ring below.
>
> Anyway, I do not want to destroy this tank. How do I lift the access plate
> away? Do I need to soften up the proseal? Can this be done? Help!! I love
> you guys. Help! :-)
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> -
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Firewall foreward cooling air needs |
Ralph,
I have the same situation. I put in a air source on the ramp for
the #2 cyl for the left muffler. I put in a source for the port side on
the angled baffle behind #3 cyl. This seems to be my best way. I am not
flying yet but the bird is at the painters right now. Hopefully I'll be
flying by the end of March.
Jim
N15JN
Message 7
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| Subject: | Canopy Slide block |
I made an aluminum "dog house" that covers the slide rail at the back
of the canopy on my 6A slider. It fits quite tight when the canopy is
closed and doesn't leave enough room vertically for the slider. I
omitted the slider and there is not enough gap to worry about. The
slider was an "after thought" anyway and was not on my original plans.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
-----------------------------
>
>
> Time: 11:44:05 AM PST US
> Subject: RV-List: Canopy slide block
> From: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
>
>
> For those of you who built the slider canopy, I am about to put the
> canopy on for the final time (at the painters). How did you fasten
> the
> slider block to the canopy to drag it back and forth. There is not
> much
> room to fasten anything to it. I'm guessing that a fishing line of
> nylon
> would work but how to fasten it to the block? I molded the skirt with
> fiberglass so the block fits snugly when the canopy is closed. I need
> some suggestions from those who have done it successfully.
>
> Jim
> N15JN
> RV9-A
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Comment period on FAA ADS-B Out NPRM ends in one week |
There is one week left to comment on this onerous and fatally flawed
FAA proposal that may cost as much as $17,000 per aircraft with
little to no benefit to the GA community.
My website at StopADS-B.org/ADS.htm gives details. You can also
read about it at aopa.org.
Ron Lee
StopADS-B.org/ADS.htm
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Gas tank repair |
At 06:02 AM 2/25/2008, you wrote:
>
>A method we have used successfully. when doing the SB fix on the
>pick up line, is to use a very flexible putty knife sharpened a bit
>on the end edge. Work it in between the plate and the ring. It helps
>if you can warm the Proseal.(heat lamp or sun) After you have one
>side loose you can apply some pressure to the plate by
>pulling/lifting on the loose side which will help get the knife in
>around the remaining edge. A little bending of the plate is OK when
>you are pulling on it as it will straighten when you release the pressure.
>Dale Ensing
>EAA TC & FA
Dale,
you are the first person to use the word " ring". Is there a ring (
like a reinforcing) between the access plate and the tank wall? I
see what looks like two layers of metal attached to the rib. Is
this an illusion? (or is there actually a ring between the access
plate and the tank wall? I have been unable to decide where to attack
with my sharpened knife.
Several people have suggested heating the area. This is a great idea.
And there are zero fumes left in the tank.
Thanks to all so far. I've been on the "list" for over ten years, and
this is why.
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Gas tank repair |
>
> At 06:02 AM 2/25/2008, you wrote:
>> <densing@carolina.rr.com>
>>
>> A method we have used successfully. when doing the SB fix on the
>> pick up line, is to use a very flexible putty knife sharpened a
>> bit on the end edge. Work it in between the plate and the ring. It
>> helps if you can warm the Proseal.(heat lamp or sun) After you
>> have one side loose you can apply some pressure to the plate by
>> pulling/lifting on the loose side which will help get the knife in
>> around the remaining edge. A little bending of the plate is OK
>> when you are pulling on it as it will straighten when you release
>> the pressure.
>> Dale Ensing
>> EAA TC & FA
>
> you are the first person to use the word " ring". Is there a ring
> ( like a reinforcing) between the access plate and the tank wall?
> I see what looks like two layers of metal attached to the rib. Is
> this an illusion? (or is there actually a ring between the access
> plate and the tank wall? I have been unable to decide where to
> attack with my sharpened knife.
>
There is a reinforcing ring, but it should have been installed on the
inside of the tank. But, perhaps the builder put it on the outside.
If there truly are two layers of metal outboard of the tank rib, then
the putty knife would need to go between the access cover and the
next layer. The reinforcing ring should be riveted to the tank rib,
so you won't be prying it loose with a putty knife.
Good luck,
--
Kevin Horton
RV-8 (Finishing Kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Gas tank repair |
Louis=2C
It has been years since I closed up my RV6 tanks but from what I remembe
r we had the option of using a cork gasket and or using the pro-seal to
prevent leaks=2E I chose to just use the pro-seal but I think you are l
ooking at your tank and seeing the outer plate and the cork and the pro-
seal =2E The ribs were stamped to have raised reinforcing areas and I b
elieve that is what the last lister was referring to as the ring but I t
hink you took it as a separate backer plate and I don=27t think that is
the case=2E If I am wrong maybe Dale will chime in to clarify what he i
s calling the ring=2E You have some good advice already and I will most
likely use some of it myself since I have not done this SB either=2E W
hat I read that I like is using the flexible puddy knife sharpened and t
he heat lamp to warm the pro seal since it can be some tough stuff=2E I
t is not a job I look forward to either but you can do it=2C just go at
it=2E It sounds like you removed your tanks and that should make it eas
ier=2C I will attack mine through the wing root fairing area=2E I also
remember using some Allen head screws to attach the cover plate to make
it easier to unscrew=2C we=27ll see if it actually works=2E You may wan
t to consider them when reinstalling yours=2E Good luck with yours=2C y
ou could have it back together by the weekend=2E I am in the middle of
the second condition inspection=2E
do not archive
Bob Bales
RV6
71 hours
FOK
----- Original Message -----
From=3A Louis Willig
Date=3A Monday=2C February 25=2C 2008 6=3A31 pm
Subject=3A Re=3A RV-List=3A Gas tank repair
To=3A rv-list=40matronics=2Ecom
=3E --=3E RV-List message posted by=3A Louis Willig
=3E
=3E At 06=3A02 AM 2/25/2008=2C you wrote=3A
=3E =3E--=3E RV-List message posted by=3A =22Dale Ensing=22
=3E =3E
=3E =3EA method we have used successfully=2E when doing the SB fix on
=3E the
=3E =3Epick up line=2C is to use a very flexible putty knife sharpened a
=3E bit
=3E =3Eon the end edge=2E Work it in between the plate and the ring=2E I
t
=3E helps
=3E =3Eif you can warm the Proseal=2E(heat lamp or sun) After you have
=3E one
=3E =3Eside loose you can apply some pressure to the plate by
=3E =3Epulling/lifting on the loose side which will help get the knife
=3E in
=3E =3Earound the remaining edge=2E A little bending of the plate is OK
=3E when
=3E =3Eyou are pulling on it as it will straighten when you release
=3E the pressure=2E
=3E =3EDale Ensing
=3E =3EEAA TC =26 FA
=3E
=3E Dale=2C
=3E
=3E you are the first person to use the word =22 ring=22=2E Is there a
=3E ring (
=3E like a reinforcing) between the access plate and the tank wall=3F
=3E I
=3E see what looks like two layers of metal attached to the rib=2E
=3E Is
=3E this an illusion=3F (or is there actually a ring between the
=3E access
=3E plate and the tank wall=3F I have been unable to decide where to
=3E attack
=3E with my sharpened knife=2E
=3E
=3E Several people have suggested heating the area=2E This is a great
=3E idea=2E
=3E And there are zero fumes left in the tank=2E
=3E
=3E Thanks to all so far=2E I=27ve been on the =22list=22 for over ten
=3E years=2C and
=3E this is why=2E
=3E
=3E
=3E
=3E -
=3E Louis I Willig
=3E 1640 Oakwood Dr=2E
=3E Penn Valley=2C PA 19072
=3E 610 668-4964
=3E RV-4=2C N180PF
=3E 190HP IO-360=2C C/S prop
=3E
=3E
=3E
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