Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:53 AM - Re: Clocking the prop ? (Ron Schreck)
2. 05:32 AM - Re: Removing pad mounted alternator (Randy Hooper)
3. 06:33 AM - Re: Removing pad mounted alternator (PJ Seipel)
4. 06:47 AM - Re: Clocking the prop - 3-blade ? (tom sargent)
5. 07:56 AM - Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line (Dave Mader)
6. 08:20 AM - Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line (sheldon barrett)
7. 08:32 AM - Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line (mike humphrey)
8. 08:53 AM - Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line (Vanremog@aol.com)
9. 08:58 AM - Aircraft Sale (Dave Reel)
10. 10:27 AM - Re: Clocking the prop - 3-blade ? (tom sargent)
11. 10:53 AM - Re: Clocking the prop ? ()
12. 08:34 PM - Re: Clocking the prop - 3-blade ? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
13. 08:51 PM - Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Clocking the prop ? |
Mike Stewart did the deed on his super RV-8. Read about it here:
http://www.mstewart.net/super8/propclock/index.htm
Ron Schreck
RV-8, "Miss Izzy"
Gold Hill Airpark, NC
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Removing pad mounted alternator |
Rapco makes a special wrench for remove and replace of the vacuum pump. It
is a pretty common tool you might be able to borrow locally.
Randy Hooper
On Sat, Mar 1, 2008 at 9:45 PM, Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello all.
> I have a B&N SD-20 direct drive alternator which is mounted on the vacuum
> accessory pad on an IO-360.
> The alternator has apparently failed.
> Three of the nuts holding the alternator are relatively easy to get to.
> However, the lower inner nut is well hidden and as far as I can tell
> impossible to reach.
> Does anyone have a tip on how to removed this vacuum pad nut without
> pulling the engine?
> Maybe a special tool?
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Jeff Bertsch
> RV-4
> Houston
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Removing pad mounted alternator |
I was able to get a wrench on it by removing the right side magneto.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
Jeff Bertsch wrote:
> Hello all.
> I have a B&N SD-20 direct drive alternator which is mounted on the
> vacuum accessory pad on an IO-360.
> The alternator has apparently failed.
> Three of the nuts holding the alternator are relatively easy to get to.
> However, the lower inner nut is well hidden and as far as I can tell
> impossible to reach.
> Does anyone have a tip on how to removed this vacuum pad nut without
> pulling the engine?
> Maybe a special tool?
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Jeff Bertsch
> RV-4
> Houston
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Clocking the prop - 3-blade ? |
I am willing to believe that clocking the (2-blade) prop makes a
difference, though I am at a loss to understand why. It must have some
explanation in the dynamics - very small flexure in something occurring
on each power pulse or something like that.
But I have a Catto wooden 3-blade prop (not flying yet). Are there any
clocking issues with a 3-blade?
Presumably the more blades, the less it matters. Also, the total
moment inertia of the wooden prop (17 lbs and 3" shorter blades) is much
less than the moment of the metal 2-blade, so I'm guessing it's not an
issue. Can any of you Catto users confirm this?
Thanks,
--
Tom S., RV-6A
Message 5
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| Subject: | Stainless Steel Fuel Line |
Any comments on stainless fuel lines for my primer system? I have a primer
set-up like vans sells where you T off the carburetor and run an 1/8 fuel
line to a solenoid switch which in turn primes 2 cylinders. I had a bad
situation a few years ago on my 6 in which I my fuel pressure was dropping,
I turned on my electric fuel pump, and it helped the situation. What I
didn't realize was that the primer line had cracked, and I was pumping fuel
right down on my exhaust. I noticed an increase in the fuel smell but the
pressure was up and I continued on. Luckily, I was only a few miles from
home. I have since bought stainless fuel lines and fittings to replace
these lines but haven't installed them yet. Would stainless be o.k. in this
situation? Since my engine starts fine, should I just forget it?
Dave Mader
RV6-flying-
RV-4 90% done ;-)
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of SCOTT SPENCER
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stainless Steel Fuel Line
BAD idea I think. In addition to being heavy, expensive and hard to work,
stainless lines are notorious for cracking because stainless work hardens
much more quickly than aluminum. It is best used in locations where heat is
a factor and movement isn't -such as fuel lines on turbine engines
themselves (which are formed by automated machines specially designed for
the purpose and then stress-relieved). NASA can't keep stainless lines from
cracking on the shuttles. It's a constant problem for them.
TIG welder? On fuel lines? Why? I own a TIG and have completed a flying RV
and I can't think of why welding would be used in this application.
A fuel system is no place to screw around. Use the accepted techniques -they
are in place because many people over many years have refined them, and
determined them best.
Scott Spencer
RV-4 and A&P mechanic for 20 years.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line |
I had copper lines on a primer system on my 6A... couple times the lines
broke... FORGET that!... I then removed the entire system... Engine
starts fine..(pump throttle while cranking)... Elimated a potential
problem/system... On hot starts... learned to: leave throttle pulled
shut, start cranking..slowly push mixture in... starts when the engine
likes the mixture... every time...Otherwise, if I give it any prime
(throttle) it'll flood..
Sheldon 6A 485 hours 0-360..
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Mader
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 8:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Stainless Steel Fuel Line
Any comments on stainless fuel lines for my primer system? I have a
primer set-up like vans sells where you T off the carburetor and run an
1/8 fuel line to a solenoid switch which in turn primes 2 cylinders. I
had a bad situation a few years ago on my 6 in which I my fuel pressure
was dropping, I turned on my electric fuel pump, and it helped the
situation. What I didn't realize was that the primer line had cracked,
and I was pumping fuel right down on my exhaust. I noticed an increase
in the fuel smell but the pressure was up and I continued on. Luckily, I
was only a few miles from home. I have since bought stainless fuel
lines and fittings to replace these lines but haven't installed them
yet. Would stainless be o.k. in this situation? Since my engine starts
fine, should I just forget it?
Dave Mader
RV6-flying-
RV-4 90% done ;-)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of SCOTT SPENCER
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 10:43 AM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stainless Steel Fuel Line
BAD idea I think. In addition to being heavy, expensive and hard to
work, stainless lines are notorious for cracking because stainless work
hardens much more quickly than aluminum. It is best used in locations
where heat is a factor and movement isn't -such as fuel lines on turbine
engines themselves (which are formed by automated machines specially
designed for the purpose and then stress-relieved). NASA can't keep
stainless lines from cracking on the shuttles. It's a constant problem
for them.
TIG welder? On fuel lines? Why? I own a TIG and have completed a
flying RV and I can't think of why welding would be used in this
application.
A fuel system is no place to screw around. Use the accepted techniques
-they are in place because many people over many years have refined
them, and determined them best.
Scott Spencer
RV-4 and A&P mechanic for 20 years.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line |
Dave,
Why not use SS braided fuel line instead of a hard line? It's already
rated for high pressure, easier to work with, AN fittings, can readily
get it in any size that you need-primer line is 4 I believe.
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Mader
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 10:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Stainless Steel Fuel Line
Any comments on stainless fuel lines for my primer system? I have a
primer set-up like vans sells where you T off the carburetor and run an
1/8 fuel line to a solenoid switch which in turn primes 2 cylinders. I
had a bad situation a few years ago on my 6 in which I my fuel pressure
was dropping, I turned on my electric fuel pump, and it helped the
situation. What I didn't realize was that the primer line had cracked,
and I was pumping fuel right down on my exhaust. I noticed an increase
in the fuel smell but the pressure was up and I continued on. Luckily, I
was only a few miles from home. I have since bought stainless fuel
lines and fittings to replace these lines but haven't installed them
yet. Would stainless be o.k. in this situation? Since my engine starts
fine, should I just forget it?
Dave Mader
RV6-flying-
RV-4 90% done ;-)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of SCOTT SPENCER
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 10:43 AM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stainless Steel Fuel Line
BAD idea I think. In addition to being heavy, expensive and hard to
work, stainless lines are notorious for cracking because stainless work
hardens much more quickly than aluminum. It is best used in locations
where heat is a factor and movement isn't -such as fuel lines on turbine
engines themselves (which are formed by automated machines specially
designed for the purpose and then stress-relieved). NASA can't keep
stainless lines from cracking on the shuttles. It's a constant problem
for them.
TIG welder? On fuel lines? Why? I own a TIG and have completed a
flying RV and I can't think of why welding would be used in this
application.
A fuel system is no place to screw around. Use the accepted techniques
-they are in place because many people over many years have refined
them, and determined them best.
Scott Spencer
RV-4 and A&P mechanic for 20 years.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line |
In a message dated 3/2/2008 7:57:45 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
davemader@bresnan.net writes:
Any comments on stainless fuel lines for my primer system? I have a primer
set-up like vans sells where you T off the carburetor and run an 1/8 fuel
line to a solenoid switch which in turn primes 2 cylinders.
=======================================
IMO this is a good use of SS and it makes the primer system more robust at
the small diameter.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 887hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
Message 9
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2006 RV8A 50hr. Has O-360-A1A, Hartzell c/s prop, Dynon D10 EFIS,
Garmin transponder and GPS, Grand Rapids engine information system.
High reliability, VFR, all new parts. Illness forcing sale. Based at
HEF, Manassas VA. Call 703-385-9811 or email dreel@cox.net for pictures
& questions.
Sorry to have to start this event but please let anyone you know that
might be interested in buying a nice RV8A.
Dave Reel
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Clocking the prop - 3-blade ? |
Well, I can reply to my own posting in this case. I had also sent an
email about clocking to Craig Catto when I posted to the list, but was
not optimistic about receiving a reply any time soon. Craig replied
within a couple hours!
Craig says that wood props are less sensitive to clocking than metal and
3-blades less sensitive than 2-blade - generally. Sometimes clocking
does make a difference with a wooden prop. It's all a matter of
harmonics. He has no recommended clocking for the 3-blade wooden prop,
but says if you sense any enhanced vibration at some rpm range, it is
worth trying to rotate it one-hole to see if it helps.
tom sargent wrote:
>
> I am willing to believe that clocking the (2-blade) prop makes a
> difference, though I am at a loss to understand why. It must have some
> explanation in the dynamics - very small flexure in something occurring
> on each power pulse or something like that.
>
> But I have a Catto wooden 3-blade prop (not flying yet). Are there
> any clocking issues with a 3-blade?
>
> Presumably the more blades, the less it matters. Also, the total
> moment inertia of the wooden prop (17 lbs and 3" shorter blades) is much
> less than the moment of the metal 2-blade, so I'm guessing it's not an
> issue. Can any of you Catto users confirm this?
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Clocking the prop ? |
Bill:
You can just not worry about it & install you prop like
99% of all the planes's do or play bushing switch
and "clock" the prop to the 3 & 9 position, v. the std
1 & 7 position (view from cockpit) clocking. May I
suggest you install it as is and be happy? Yes there
is a difference in vibration, apparently mostly at high
rpm and power. You don't eliminate all vibration but
you do move it's freq range around. Most people who
fly before & after clocking are happy, but we are not
talking earth shaking differences (no pun). People
who balanced prop before/after, measure vibration
do note a lower vib on their vibration meter. It varies
with prop, engine.
The point is will your back side feel the difference.
It is probably worth it but you will have to decide
and switch bushings.
Make some calls (Hartzell/Lycoming) and decide.
Be careful removing & bushings.
George
>From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
>Subject: RV-List: Clocking the prop ?
>
>Just a little confused. I'm working on the prop spinner and
>mount and I hear folks talking about clocking the prop. Bill
>Boyd read something and had this to say:
>
>"It says that a flat four engine will run more smoothly if the
>prop is indexed to be in the same plane as the crank pins,
>meaning it is horizontal when the pistons are at top or
>bottom dead center. This orientation is 60 degrees away
>from the indexing that is traditional for Lycomings, which
>is a concession to ease of hand-propping."
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Clocking the prop - 3-blade ? |
In a message dated 03/02/2008 8:49:10 AM Central Standard Time,
sarg314@comcast.net writes:
Can any of you Catto users confirm this?
I tried a re-clock on my Catto 3-blade during early testing as an experiment
by shifting it one hole. Not a major difference, but it did seem to shift
from 90% smooth to maybe 95%, but then again, that may have been a placebo reward
for my efforts.
Much more importantly, be sure to wait until final paint is on the spinner,
then decide what to do- after painting I picked up a noticeable vibration
around 1900 rpm, most apparent when reducing power, that I hadn't noticed before.
One dynamic balance session later, it was running much to my satisfaction, and
remains so after nearly 475 hours...
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line |
In a message dated 03/02/2008 9:58:12 AM Central Standard Time,
davemader@bresnan.net writes:
Since my engine starts fine, should I just forget it?
When this has come up before, the folks living in the Great White North tend
to support primers. In areas where you normally don't have to shovel the
airplane out of the hangar, it may not be necessary. My carbed -320 starts very
easily even on frigid mornings (35-40 degrees in the hangar) by just giving the
throttle a couple of shots of accelerator pump WHILE the engine is cranking.
My used engine was liberated from a Cherokee and came with copper primer
lines hooked to 3 cylinders. I plumbed them to my MAP sensor, which saved me
plugging into the port on #3 and removing the old lines and plugging the holes.
I
must say I kinda prefer less gasoline arteries wrapped around the engine.
Now if you plan on visiting Lake Woebegon for ice-fishing and leave the plane
tied down on the lake, ya might need a shot of pre-heat before firin' that
muthu up...
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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