Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:39 AM - Re: Prop wrench (Rick Galati)
2. 05:44 AM - cowling on bottom/vaporlock problem (Charles Heathco)
3. 06:34 AM - Re: cowling on bottom/vaporlock problem (Bob)
4. 06:38 AM - Re: Sikaflex Canopy Info (rvtach)
5. 06:53 AM - vaporlock clairfication (Charles Heathco)
6. 07:35 AM - screaming eagle tailwheels (Frazier, Vincent A)
7. 07:36 AM - Re: Re: Prop wrench (David Cudney)
8. 07:46 AM - Sikaflex on the canopy ()
9. 08:57 AM - Re: RV-4 Navaid installation question (bert murillo)
10. 09:11 AM - Sun and fun (bert murillo)
11. 12:30 PM - Re: Sun and fun (Garry)
12. 03:41 PM - Re: vaporlock clairfication (linn Walters)
13. 04:01 PM - Re: Sun and fun (linn Walters)
14. 04:06 PM - Re: RV-4 Navaid installation question (JFLEISC@aol.com)
15. 04:07 PM - Re: Sun and fun (linn Walters)
16. 06:37 PM - Re: RV-4 Navaid installation question (Charlie England)
17. 07:12 PM - Hanger Interior Design Help (Mike Kraus)
18. 07:50 PM - Re: Hanger Interior Design Help ()
19. 08:36 PM - Re: Hanger Interior Design Help (linn Walters)
20. 09:10 PM - Re: vaporlock clairfication (J. Mcculley)
Message 1
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[quote="yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net"]
> I am torquing my Hartzel constant speed prop.............Surely there must be
a tool available out there somewhere. Anyone have a source? thanks dave
Seems to me the easiest solution without having to go through a lot of monkey motion
or cobbing something together is to buy a real prop wrench. You don't have
to pay $200 for one either. Avery has em and the design readily adapts to
my digital torgue wrench. Beware the chrome flavored Hartzel prop wrench
offered by ATS. My (returned) example broke way before minimum torque specs were
met. I suspect it may have been due an improper or omitted heat treatment.
http://www.averytools.com/p-734-hartzell-style-propeller-wrench.aspx
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=177374#177374
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| Subject: | cowling on bottom/vaporlock problem |
I have vapor lock problem when engine hot, (running mogas), and last
summer it happened briefly with 100ll. I am wondering if the vents would
allow more cooler air to circulate and help the prob. I otherwise have
no overheat problem. ( I always open the oil check cover when I park to
let hot air out but if doing a long taxi I cant)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: cowling on bottom/vaporlock problem |
At 07:40 AM 4/17/08, you wrote:
>I have vapor lock problem when engine hot, (running mogas), and last
>summer it happened briefly with 100ll. I am wondering if the vents
>would allow more cooler air to circulate and help the prob. I
>otherwise have no overheat problem. ( I always open the oil check
>cover when I park to let hot air out but if doing a long taxi I cant)
Do you have a carburetor or a fuel injection servo? Big difference
in how to approach the problem.
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Sikaflex Canopy Info |
>From another "Jim"...
No problemo on the questions. Happy to have a chance to return the favor for all
the help I've gotten over the years.
The angle probably wouldn't hurt anything but I don't think it's necessary. The
triangle fillet between the plexi and the side bow is plenty strong. When the
outer side skirt is riveted to the side bow and glued to the plexi you'll end
up with the plexi secured between the Sika Flex fillet and the side skirt. It's
not going anywhere. Remember that you don't need the 1/8" glue joint if you
have a fillet. Sika USA tech support said that a fillet between 2 pieces at right
angles (l_) is as strong as a 1/8" joint. The 1/8" specification is for 2
pieces being bonded face to face (l l).
I have not glued on my windscreen yet. I'll do that as late in the process as I can so that I can leave the area behind the panel open for easier access for wiring etc. I plan to do my windscreen the way Jim Elis documented his on the RV Wiki at http://wiki.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Gluing_Your_Canopy#Jim_Ellis . Gluing the windscreen with a Sika Flex fairing will also make it possible to replace the windscreen in the event of a birdstrike etc. You can just cut the sikaflex with a razor whereas with the fiberglass fairing that Van suggests you'd have a devil of a time taking the damaged windscreen out.
The rear skirt seems plenty secure. The only way I can imagine losing the integrity
of these glue joints is with a peeling action; the forward edge starts to
lift and the wind gets under the skirt and peels it off. The forward/lower ends
of the skirt is riveted to the frame so there is no chance for it to start
to peel. I made a bunch test pieces of plexi Sika-Flexed to aluminum with minimal/poor
prep to simulate a worst case scenario and I can't get the pieces apart
with my hands. I used a very thin glue joint on several, put them in the freezer
for several hours then popped them into the oven after some cookies came
out to simulate max thermal expansion and the glue is strong, strong, strong.
I'm sure that if you used a screwdriver you could get them apart but I think
you'll tear up the material before the glue joint lets go. I didn't realize how
tough this stuff was until after I had used it.
I am very happy with the way this has turned out so far. I would definitely do
it this way next time.
--------
Jim McChesney
Tucson, AZ
RV-7A Finishing Kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=177401#177401
Message 5
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| Subject: | vaporlock clairfication |
To clarify, re vaporlock, I have a standard carb. 320 150 hp. I had the
carb OH, but first had the problem prior to. The lines are in fire
sleve. Charles heathco
Message 6
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| Subject: | screaming eagle tailwheels |
Guys,
My site, the oldest and largest Rocket site on the web, has been down or
under construction temporarily due to "upgrades" made by my ISP. I am
told that this is a temporary thing, but since most ISP tech support
people speak non-english tongues as a primary language, I'm not really
sure if they know. Certainly, they can't communicate the situation very
well.
Regardless, I am still here and still have tailwheels, tires, graphics,
and other trinkets for your RV orRocket. Contact me directly if you
can't access the website... which seems likely for at least a few weeks
until the ISP "upgrades" are completed.
Vince Frazier
vfrazier@usi.edu
812-464-1839w
812-985-7309h
Thanks,
Vince Frazier
Screaming Eagle Graphics and Accessories, LLC
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839
http://vincesrocket.com/products.htm
Message 7
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Thanks
------- the problem is these are for 1/2 inch drives and not 3/8.
I'll try the stub wrench with a bolt in the closed end method.
dave
On Apr 16, 2008, at 8:16 PM, Larry Bowen wrote:
> One option:
>
> http://bowenaero.com/mt/2005/04/prop-torque-adapter.html
>
> --
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 16, 2008 at 11:01 PM, David Cudney
> <yenduc@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> I am torquing my Hartzel constant speed prop. I need a crow's foot
> to work with my 3/8 inch torque wrench with at least a 3 inch
> offset. I recall reading that someone, perhaps Dan, made one by
> welding a 3/8 adapter onto a stub of a 3/4 inch open end wrench.
> Surely there must be a tool available out there somewhere. Anyone
> have a source?
>
>
> thanks dave
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Sikaflex on the canopy |
Just wanted to echo my comments on Sika with a tip up canopy. I used garden hose
washers as spacers, which are about .125" thick. This is less than Sika says,
but it's an experiment (al). Both the windscreen and the rear plexi were
attached this way. Not a single hole was drilled. 200 hours and 2 summers in
Phoenix without any issues. If the expansion works in Phoenix - it will work
anywhere.
Kelly Patterson
RV-6A N716K
moving to Denver in 3 weeks
Time: 07:20:02 PM PST US
Subject: RV-List: Sikaflex Canopy Info
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
Carl,
The sika flex is strong stuff. I did bolt the sides of the
canopy to the square rail. Maybe I was a bit chicken. But I used about
3/8" gap for the adhesive. You need space to allow for the expansion of
the plexi in the heat. The gap on the back is much less around 1/4" or
so. The windshield was no problem. Just remember that you need to cut
the bottom of the plexi after you space the canopy upward to allow for
the glue spacing. I had to remake the side skirts because I forgot about
that. THe fiberglass that you put around the bottomof the windshield
keep things in place. Plus you put the fiberglass "ring" around the top
to cover the gap between the rear and front canopy. I think it will be
there for a long.time. Fun priject that added about 6 weeks total to the
job. But then I have only a few bolt holes on the square tube.
Jim
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Navaid installation question |
Charlie:
I have mine installed, as suggested, under
the copilot seat.
It was not easy, one has to, cut some portion of
the big rib, to accomodate the unit, then one has
to built a base, strong enough, so as not to have
the chance of this thing moving. It is riveted,
to the floor, or with nut-plates and bolts..
then unit has to be also secured, to the base..
But it works very well,. as I said, is just a very
teddious, and time consuming...You should have
drawings for the connection to the sticks, rod....
The other way is installing it Inside the wing...
that is also not easy if the plane is finished....
I do not see how it could be done...you would need a
very long tube, to reach the bell-crank....wich
it will probably will have some flexing,, not good.
if thicker, then the weight question....
This is the best I can do,,
good luck
bert
rv6a
do not archive
--- Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
> Anyone out there with a Navaid servo installed in
> the fuselage of a -4
> who has pictures to share? I recently purchased a
> used one & I'd like to
> avoid drilling off the wing tip, if possible.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
Be a better friend, newshound, and
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Hi:
Does any one knows anything about the accident,
of plane on Sunday, at Sun and Fun...?
Wanted to know what kind of plane etc....
Bertrv67
do not archive
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Message 11
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My understanding is that the plane to go down on Sunday was a Lancair.
Garry
----- Original Message -----
From: "bert murillo" <robertrv607@yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 12:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Sun and fun
>
> Hi:
>
> Does any one knows anything about the accident,
> of plane on Sunday, at Sun and Fun...?
> Wanted to know what kind of plane etc....
>
> Bertrv67
>
> do not archive
>
>
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: vaporlock clairfication |
Charles Heathco wrote:
> To clarify, re vaporlock, I have a standard carb. 320 150 hp. I had
> the carb OH, but first had the problem prior to. The lines are in fire
> sleve. Charles heathco
Charlie, I missed the original vaporlock post, but will comment anyway
so this may be a waste of bandwidth. I have heard of RVs with vapor
lock problems, and am not sure why it happens. I fly mogas in my Pitts,
and even in the summer in FL have never had a smidgen of a problem ....
even with fast turn around fuel stops. The big difference in my
installation ..... I have a PS-5 pressure carbureator. And I don't have
any firesleeved hoses in the cowl. Don't flame me .... I just haven't
gotten around to doing it, not that I don't want to do it.
I wish I could figure out the WHY of some mogas vaporlock, but since I
don't have the problem ..... I can't fix it. Maybe we can have some
really frank discussion about the problem here and get to the bottom of
it. Has anyone cured the problem in another way besides mixing or going
to 100LL 100% of the time???
Linn
do not archive
>
>
Message 13
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The best info I have is that it was a Lancair, and the canopy came open
on takeoff. Eyewitnesses said they saw charts and other papers fly out
of the open canopy. The WHY he crashed, I don't know. It appears that
it went in vertically and was pretty much consumed in the fire. I
wasn't one of the eyewitnesses so I can't comment directly. My info was
obtained not too long after the accident. The info sources should have
known the facts for sure, though.
My sympathies and condolences lay with the friends and relatives.
Linn
bert murillo wrote:
>
>Hi:
>
>Does any one knows anything about the accident,
>of plane on Sunday, at Sun and Fun...?
>Wanted to know what kind of plane etc....
>
>Bertrv67
>
>do not archive
>
>
>Be a better friend, newshound, and
>know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Navaid installation question |
Charlie;
I have mine installed in the fuselage with their center "torque tube"
adapter. Very neat and simple installation. Sorry I don't have pics at the
moment but am planning to take my -4 out of service for a few months and may be
able to get them then.
Jim
do not archive
**************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car
listings at AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851)
Message 15
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Two emails later after my reply, I get this email:
Linn
do not archive
Subject: Fwd: Sun-Fun Crash
>From ANN News.
LAL Takeoff Crash Pilot's Identity Released
Plane Received Outstanding Homebuilt Award At Show
ANN REALTIME UPDATE 04.14.08 1200 EDT: Aero-News learned Monday
morning the identity of the pilot lost in Sunday's takeoff accident at
the Lakeland fly-in has been confirmed.
According to several news reports, Gerard Schkolnik was at the controls
of the Lancair Legacy when it crashed less than a mile off the departure
end of Runway 27 at Lakeland-Linder Regional Airport. The aircraft was
consumed in a post-impact fire.
The loss carries an added pall of sadness... as earlier Sunday, the
Experimental Aircraft Association announced Schkolnik's plane was among
the winners of the group's Outstanding Homebuilt Aircraft award.
ORIGINAL REPORT
A pilot who had just taken off from Lakeland Linder Airport (LAL) was
killed Sunday morning when his Lancair Legacy crashed less than one mile
west of the runway.
The Tampa Tribune reports the aircraft, a two-seat Lancair Legacy
homebuilt, impacted a pasture near Hamilton Road, about 3/4 mile off the
departure end of runway 27.
Sunday was the final day of the annual Sun 'N Fun Fly-In at LAL, and is
traditionally a busy day for aircraft departures. "Because of the nature
of the crash scene it wasn't immediately obvious whether there were one
or two victims," said Scott Wilder, spokesman for the Polk County
sheriff's office. "We're getting conflicting reports."
FAA spokeswoman Kathleen Bergen confirmed the accident aircraft (file
photo of type, shown below) was registered to Wilmington, DE-based G-Kas
Aviation LLC. "Presumably, the person on board was attending the air
show," Bergen said.
Agency records list the plane's registration as N1177M, a 2006 Lancair
Legacy assembled by Thomas Dayan -- who was lost in a June 2006 downing
of a Lancair 360, reports the Tribune.
According to the EAA, the accident plane had just received an award for
Outstanding Homebuilt Aircraft at the 2008 show.
The accident marks the second fatality associated with this year's show
in Lakeland. As ANN reported, the pilot of a CH601 Zodiac was killed
when his plane crashed near Polk City, 13 miles northeast of LAL, on
April 8. The pilot, later identified as Robert Dodson, was on his way to
the fly-in when the accident occurred.
Sunday's accident -- combined with others in the past six years at Sun
'N Fun, including a 2002 mid-air collision and last year's fatal downing
of a Wheeler Express that crashed short of the runway -- is making some
who live near the airport nervous about the fly-in, reports the Tribune.
"Last year, they had one go down," said Steven Edwards, who lives near
where the Lancair crashed. "It's just too close for comfort."
FMI: www.eaa.org/news/2008/2008-04-13_awards.asp
bert murillo wrote:
>
>Hi:
>
>Does any one knows anything about the accident,
>of plane on Sunday, at Sun and Fun...?
>Wanted to know what kind of plane etc....
>
>Bertrv67
>
>do not archive
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Navaid installation question |
Thanks to all that replied; I found a couple of photos on the VAF forum
site. Also a .pdf of the Trutrak install. Most common seems to be either
in the tunnel or on the outer surface of the tunnel with the pushrod
going through a hole & attaching to either the base of the stick
weldment or to the pushrod that connects the front stick to the back stick.
Now, how about a pinout for the dB25 on the back of a Softcom ATC-P
panel mount intercom?
Thanks,
Charlie
Message 17
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| Subject: | Hanger Interior Design Help |
Sorry about somewhat off topic, but I was looking for ideas/tips/tricks
for things to do in my new hangar. I built a new pole barn type hangar
with insulation, drywall, etc on my house and was looking for ideas of
what others have done that has worked out well.
So far I have built in compressed air at multiple locations, speakers
wired into the walls, plenty of electricity and lighting, cable, and
internet. I also have a sink. I was going to make a little FBO area
with a couch and TV for when I'm working on the planes and for when
others come to visit.
Just looking for any ideas of what others have done to store parts,
tools, nice additions, things that worked well and even things that
didn't work well. Now is the time for me to incorporate ideas before
there is too much stuff in there.
Thanks,
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 Flying
RV-10 FWF and Wiring, once I get the house and hangar finished.....
Message 18
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| Subject: | Hanger Interior Design Help |
Geez's mate - that sounds better than my house - when can I move in :-)
The only hint I'll offer is "put everything on wheels" work benches, the
lot!
Cheers
Do no Archive
John Morrissey
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Kraus
Sent: Friday, 18 April 2008 12:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: Hanger Interior Design Help
Sorry about somewhat off topic, but I was looking for ideas/tips/tricks
for things to do in my new hangar. I built a new pole barn type hangar
with insulation, drywall, etc on my house and was looking for ideas of
what others have done that has worked out well.
So far I have built in compressed air at multiple locations, speakers
wired into the walls, plenty of electricity and lighting, cable, and
internet. I also have a sink. I was going to make a little FBO area
with a couch and TV for when I'm working on the planes and for when
others come to visit.
Just looking for any ideas of what others have done to store parts,
tools, nice additions, things that worked well and even things that
didn't work well. Now is the time for me to incorporate ideas before
there is too much stuff in there.
Thanks,
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 Flying
RV-10 FWF and Wiring, once I get the house and hangar finished.....
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Hanger Interior Design Help |
Mike Kraus wrote:
> Sorry about somewhat off topic, but I was looking for
> ideas/tips/tricks for things to do in my new hangar. I built a new
> pole barn type hangar with insulation, drywall, etc on my house and
> was looking for ideas of what others have done that has worked out well.
>
> So far I have built in compressed air at multiple locations, speakers
> wired into the walls, plenty of electricity and lighting, cable, and
> internet. I also have a sink.
Bathroom? I didn't, and that makes me walk back up to the house .....
where most of my distraction occurs.
> I was going to make a little FBO area with a couch and TV for when
> I'm working on the planes and for when others come to visit.
I'm not sure that this is a good thing, When I'm working on my planes I
don't want to be interrupted. It makes it difficult to pick up where
you paused to be sociable. I got bit once by that very scenario. And
all that interruption isn't conducive to getting tasks compleded.
Sounds like you have a 'den' with compresssed air!!!
> Just looking for any ideas of what others have done to store parts,
> tools,
I built shelves to organize the stuff I don't use often, and have
pegboard filled with hanging tools. Easier to find a wrench when it's
on the pegboard rather than all mixed up in the toolbox. Those tools
that don't lend themselves to pegboarding .... still reside in the
toolboxes.
> nice additions, things that worked well and even things that didn't
> work well. Now is the time for me to incorporate ideas before there
> is too much stuff in there.
Good point! I built airconditioned rooms and used the 'roof' to put my
shelving and storage areas above. A winch hauls a 'dumbwaiter' up/down
so I don't have to carry stuff up a ladder. I also have all my large
tools (tablesaw, planer, chopsaw etc. on wheels so I can get them out of
the way when not in use. Ditto for all my RV-10 stuff, including the
large crates. I do have really heavy stuff .... lathe, mill, bead blast
cabinet and hydraulic press are against the back wall ...... they don't
move. I haven't run air yet ..... hoses work well from the compressor
anywhere in the building because you end up with a hose plugged into the
wall anyway.
Linn
do not archive
>
> Thanks,
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 Flying
> RV-10 FWF and Wiring, once I get the house and hangar finished.....
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: vaporlock clairfication |
Linn, which type of engine driven fuel pump do you have with the PS-5
carb--gear type or diaphragm?
Jim
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
linn Walters wrote:
> Charles Heathco wrote:
>
>> To clarify, re vaporlock, I have a standard carb. 320 150 hp. I had
>> the carb OH, but first had the problem prior to. The lines are in fire
>> sleve. Charles heathco
>
> Charlie, I missed the original vaporlock post, but will comment anyway
> so this may be a waste of bandwidth. I have heard of RVs with vapor
> lock problems, and am not sure why it happens. I fly mogas in my Pitts,
> and even in the summer in FL have never had a smidgen of a problem ....
> even with fast turn around fuel stops. The big difference in my
> installation ..... I have a PS-5 pressure carbureator. And I don't have
> any firesleeved hoses in the cowl. Don't flame me .... I just haven't
> gotten around to doing it, not that I don't want to do it.
>
> I wish I could figure out the WHY of some mogas vaporlock, but since I
> don't have the problem ..... I can't fix it. Maybe we can have some
> really frank discussion about the problem here and get to the bottom of
> it. Has anyone cured the problem in another way besides mixing or going
> to 100LL 100% of the time???
> Linn
> do not archive
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