Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:52 AM - Re: Fab Bypass Filter (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
2. 05:34 AM - Re: Re: Fab Bypass Filter (Dale Ensing)
3. 07:35 AM - Re: Hanger House (d wntzl)
4. 07:35 AM - Re: cowling filler (David Cudney)
5. 09:16 AM - Re: Re: Hanger House (Terry Watson)
6. 11:19 AM - Re: Re: Hanger House (Ollie Washburn)
7. 12:36 PM - Re: Re: Hanger House (Tim Bryan)
8. 09:03 PM - Re: cowling filler (tom sargent)
9. 09:21 PM - Re: cowling filler (tom sargent)
Message 1
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Subject: | RE: Fab Bypass Filter |
Dale,
The filter has the metal plate on the bottom side, which has the
bypass door (with magnet). The filter, with this plate, sits above the
floor of the FAB box by about 1/2". If/when the bypass door opens, it
get's its air from within the FAB air box, the same source used to
supply air to the filter. This air also has a source for carb heat....
Nothing special done here except that I didn't follow Van's
instructions to have the bypass get its air from the lower cowl....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV (Sale Pending)
RV-7A N924RV (ready for an engine)
MessageVery interesting Fred. Could you give us a little more info to
get a
mental picture of the bypass around the filter? Did you create an
addition
al air passage on the fiberglass airbox?
Dale
do not achieve
Instead, I implemented my trap door to source it's air
supply from th
e airbox (yes, there is plenty of space between the filter and
the lower l
evel of the airbox..). This method allowed for the continued use
of carb he
at if/when the filter was blocked, preventing the secondary carb
ice failur
e mode, and possibly melting the ice/snow that was blocking the
filter.
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV (Sale Pending)
RV-7A N924RV (ready for an engine)
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: RE: Fab Bypass Filter |
You must have a different airbox. In my airbox (O-360 carburated) the filte
r sits directly on the fiberglass bottom of the airbox. The filter is a tig
ht fit between the airbox top plate and the molded fiberglass.
Your arrangement sounds like a good idea...just won't work on my airbox.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR
To: densing@carolina.rr.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 7:48 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Fab Bypass Filter
Dale,
The filter has the metal plate on the bottom side, which has the bypas
s door (with magnet). The filter, with this plate, sits above the floor of
the FAB box by about 1/2". If/when the bypass door opens, it get's its air
from within the FAB air box, the same source used to supply air to the filt
er. This air also has a source for carb heat....
Nothing special done here except that I didn't follow Van's instruction
s to have the bypass get its air from the lower cowl....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV (Sale Pending)
RV-7A N924RV (ready for an engine)
MessageVery interesting Fred. Could you give us a little more info to get
a
mental picture of the bypass around the filter? Did you create an
addition
al air passage on the fiberglass airbox?
Dale
do not achieve
Instead, I implemented my trap door to source it's air supply
from th
e airbox (yes, there is plenty of space between the filter and the
lower l
evel of the airbox..). This method allowed for the continued use of
carb he
at if/when the filter was blocked, preventing the secondary carb ic
e failur
e mode, and possibly melting the ice/snow that was blocking the fil
ter.
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV (Sale Pending)
RV-7A N924RV (ready for an engine)
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Hanger House |
Hey Guys,
I am planning a Hanger House in the Florida Panhandle. Originally
planned on a steel
stucture, but it is seeming that wood will be considerably more cost effective.
My question
is if any of you might have a feel for the insurance ramifications of either options??
I would
hate to choose wood only to find out later that insurance is outrageous.
Thanks, David Wentzell, RV6, Port St. Joe
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: cowling filler |
Tom:
I called and got similar advice on the roller application. How long
did you let it dry between roller applications to get your three plus
three coats? I plan to let it dry for a couple of weeks after the
last sanding before I apply a seal coat of either epoxy or
polyurethane top primer. They stressed that it is necessary to put on
a top coat of a primer that requires a catalyst particularly if you
plan to fly the plane for a while before painting.
Thanks to all of you for your help
dave
On Jun 2, 2008, at 10:43 PM, tom sargent wrote:
>
> I've had mixed results with UV smooth prime. Often it cures with
> tiny bubbles in it or has just too much texture. By the time you
> sand all the texture out, it's all gone. It worked well on my
> spinner but it seemed like it was an awful lot of work. Recently I
> seemed to get better results thinning it slightly - about 5% - with
> water. That may suppress the bubbles and texturing a bit.
>
> Polyfiber advised using a foam roller (their preferred method
> apparently) with the smallest foam cell size possible. I think that
> did help. It seems I have to put on about 6 very thin coats, then
> sand 95% of it away. Yes, 6. That's what they told me. I do 3,
> sand it a bit and then 3 more. And you must let it sit for a couple
> weeks before painting to let the water get out of it.
>
> Does any one have any advice on using this stuff? Am I doing it
> wrong? Polyfiber doesn't seem to have all the recommended
> procedures in one place. Some is on the can, some on their website
> and some you get by calling up and asking. Frustrating. But I
> guess that's fiberglass for you. It's expensive too.
>
> --
> Tom S. - RV-6A
> stuck in fiberglass hell.
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Hanger House |
Dave,
Most houses in the US and Canada are wood framed. I would expect the costs
of insurance will have more to do with replacement costs than anything else.
The building codes will require a fire separation wall between the hanger
and house, just as they will between a garage and a house. This wall will
most likely be constructed of gypsum wall board on a frame of whatever the
house is framed with, or it could be a concrete wall if the house is
concrete. Wood frame construction can and should be designed to handle
almost any anticipated wind forces, including hurricanes. Often it is best
to see how others are building or have built in the same location to get a
feel for the most cost effective methods.
Terry
RV-8A
Seattle
Architect (housing)
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of d wntzl
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 7:29 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Hanger House
Hey Guys,
I am planning a Hanger House in the Florida Panhandle. Originally planned
on a steel
stucture, but it is seeming that wood will be considerably more cost
effective. My question
is if any of you might have a feel for the insurance ramifications of either
options?? I would
hate to choose wood only to find out later that insurance is outrageous.
Thanks, David Wentzell, RV6, Port St. Joe
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Hanger House |
Most of the hanger homes on OUR airpark are of cement block
construction and new ones are going in the 450K range. Luckily we got
here a few years ago.
Ollie, Loves Landing Airpark, Central FL>
On Tue, Jun 3, 2008 at 10:29 AM, d wntzl <dwntzl@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hey Guys,
>
> I am planning a Hanger House in the Florida Panhandle. Originally planned
> on a steel
>
> stucture, but it is seeming that wood will be considerably more cost
> effective. My question
>
> is if any of you might have a feel for the insurance ramifications of either
> options?? I would
>
> hate to choose wood only to find out later that insurance is outrageous.
>
> Thanks, David Wentzell, RV6, Port St. Joe
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Hanger House |
Most on our airpark have built big steel buildings with a partition to
create the house. I could not bring myself to do this (I don't think they
are attractive for residential) so I got a quote for a chip face colored
block building. Surprise, it was cheaper. That is what I have and I love
it. It is attractive, cooler, has flat walls inside, needs no paint, and is
residential. Did I mention it looks much better than the steel warehouse
buildings? :-) Just my opinion of course.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB almost 100 hours now
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ollie Washburn
> Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 1:14 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Hanger House
>
>
> Most of the hanger homes on OUR airpark are of cement block
> construction and new ones are going in the 450K range. Luckily we got
> here a few years ago.
>
> Ollie, Loves Landing Airpark, Central FL>
>
> On Tue, Jun 3, 2008 at 10:29 AM, d wntzl <dwntzl@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Hey Guys,
> >
> > I am planning a Hanger House in the Florida Panhandle. Originally
> planned
> > on a steel
> >
> > stucture, but it is seeming that wood will be considerably more cost
> > effective. My question
> >
> > is if any of you might have a feel for the insurance ramifications of
> either
> > options?? I would
> >
> > hate to choose wood only to find out later that insurance is outrageous.
> >
> > Thanks, David Wentzell, RV6, Port St. Joe
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: cowling filler |
David:
Not very long at all. 10 minutes seems to do it. On the spinner, I
think I put on the 3 coats one night and the other 3 the next night.
David Cudney wrote:
>
> Tom:
>
> I called and got similar advice on the roller application. How long did
> you let it dry between roller applications to get your three plus three
> coats? I plan to let it dry for a couple of weeks after the last
> sanding before I apply a seal coat of either epoxy or polyurethane top
> primer. They stressed that it is necessary to put on a top coat of a
> primer that requires a catalyst particularly if you plan to fly the
> plane for a while before painting.
>
>
> Thanks to all of you for your help
>
> dave
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: cowling filler |
I should add that I live in southern arizona, so it's hot and super dry
here (5% humidity yesterday) so things dry out fast.
tom sargent wrote:
>
> David:
> Not very long at all. 10 minutes seems to do it. On the spinner, I
> think I put on the 3 coats one night and the other 3 the next night.
>
> David Cudney wrote:
>>
>> Tom:
>>
>> I called and got similar advice on the roller application. How long
>> did you let it dry between roller applications to get your three plus
>> three coats? I plan to let it dry for a couple of weeks after the
>> last sanding before I apply a seal coat of either epoxy or
>> polyurethane top primer. They stressed that it is necessary to put on
>> a top coat of a primer that requires a catalyst particularly if you
>> plan to fly the plane for a while before painting.
>>
>>
>
>
>
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