RV-List Digest Archive

Wed 06/04/08


Total Messages Posted: 6



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:11 AM - Re: Re: Hanger House (Charles Heathco)
     2. 06:14 AM - Re: Re: Hanger House (Tracy Crook)
     3. 07:06 AM - Re: Re: Hanger House (linn Walters)
     4. 08:13 AM - Re: Re: Hanger House (Tracy Crook)
     5. 08:55 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 06/03/08 (Jeff Linebaugh)
     6. 11:46 PM - Say What? (Vanremog@aol.com)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:11:12 AM PST US
    From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Hanger House
    As am on digest, reply is little late. 3 years ago I looked into airpark living, visited many of them, most in Tx.Ok, and Ar. Have seen many types, big steel hanger with home tucked inside , stick built house with attached stick built hanger, nice conventionally built home with breezeway to separate matching hanger. The former would be cheapest to build compared to the later which looks much nicer, but much more cost per sq ft. I passed on airpark living mainly because nearly all were away from towns, not a good settup foir an older single guy. Charlie Heathco, FYV. Do Not archive.


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:14:24 AM PST US
    From: "Tracy Crook" <tracy@rotaryaviation.com>
    Subject: Re: Hanger House
    I went with concrete block for the bottom (Hangar) with wood frame on top (house). Going down the inside stairs in the morming to fetch the paper and seeing that RV-8 waiting for me - Priceless. Insurance. Just made the decision to "go bare" after the rates have gone nuts and doing a little research. Did you know that the payoff on a Vegas slot machine is WAY better than insurance? I know, I'm nuts too. Tracy Crook On Tue, Jun 3, 2008 at 10:29 AM, d wntzl <dwntzl@yahoo.com> wrote: > Hey Guys, > > I am planning a Hanger House in the Florida Panhandle. Originally > planned on a steel > > stucture, but it is seeming that wood will be considerably more cost > effective. My question > > is if any of you might have a feel for the insurance ramifications of > either options?? I would > > hate to choose wood only to find out later that insurance is outrageous. > > Thanks, David Wentzell, RV6, Port St. Joe > > > * > > * > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:06:39 AM PST US
    From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Hanger House
    Tracy Crook wrote: > I went with concrete block for the bottom (Hangar) with wood frame on > top (house). > > Going down the inside stairs in the morming to fetch the paper and > seeing that RV-8 waiting for me - Priceless. > > Insurance. Just made the decision to "go bare" after the rates have > gone nuts and doing a little research. Did you know that the payoff > on a Vegas slot machine is WAY better than insurance? Not for my wife, it isn't!!! Sorry to clutter your inbox, but I just got back from Vegas!!! Linn > I know, I'm nuts too. > Tracy Crook


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:13:36 AM PST US
    From: "Tracy Crook" <tracy@rotaryaviation.com>
    Subject: Re: Hanger House
    Not for my wife, it isn't!!! Sorry to clutter your inbox, but I just got back from Vegas!!! Linn I didn't turn a profit on those Vegas slots either Linn, but on the other hand, Laura & I only dropped a C note worth of nickles in Vegas, got served free drinks by pretty ladies while doing it and had a good time with friends to boot. OTOH, during my 42 years of buying insurance (non health), I've dropped enough to pay for my house and car and didn't even get kissed <G> The insurance "slot machine" didn't pay off a single time. Of course, YMMV. On a side note, I find that I am much more cautious about fire and other hazards and how I drive when I know I am responsible for anything that happens. To make this RV related, I'm saving enough by not buying insurance this year to pay for over 100 hours of RV flight time. Makes me smile every time I light the fire on that rotary engine. Tracy Crook do not archive On Wed, Jun 4, 2008 at 10:01 AM, linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote: > > Tracy Crook wrote: > >> I went with concrete block for the bottom (Hangar) with wood frame on top >> (house). Going down the inside stairs in the morming to fetch the paper >> and seeing that RV-8 waiting for me - Priceless. Insurance. Just made >> the decision to "go bare" after the rates have gone nuts and doing a little >> research. Did you know that the payoff on a Vegas slot machine is WAY >> better than insurance? >> > Not for my wife, it isn't!!! Sorry to clutter your inbox, but I just got >> back from Vegas!!! >> Linn >> I know, I'm nuts too. >> Tracy Crook >> > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:55:30 AM PST US
    From: "Jeff Linebaugh" <jefflinebaugh@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: RE: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 06/03/08
    Termites are ferocious in FL. It may be difficult for you to get a termite bond, depending on the area, if you go with wood construction. Also, some codes require concrete block for hurricane protection. Sounds like you will need to do your homework on your particular area. As my AF flight commander always said...avoid the big three: dumb, dangerous or different. Jeff Linebaugh jefflinebaugh@bellsouth.net ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:35:05 AM PST US From: d wntzl <dwntzl@yahoo.com> Subject: RV-List: Re: Hanger House Hey Guys, &nbsp;&nbsp; I am planning a Hanger House in the Florida Panhandle. Originally planned on a steel stucture, but it is seeming that wood will be considerably more cost effective. My question is if any of you might have a feel for the insurance ramifications of either options?? I would hate to choose wood only to find out later that insurance is outrageous. &nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks, David Wentzell, RV6,&nbsp; Port St. Joe&nbsp; ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:35:27 AM PST US From: David Cudney <yenduc@sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: cowling filler Tom: I called and got similar advice on the roller application. How long did you let it dry between roller applications to get your three plus three coats? I plan to let it dry for a couple of weeks after the last sanding before I apply a seal coat of either epoxy or polyurethane top primer. They stressed that it is necessary to put on a top coat of a primer that requires a catalyst particularly if you plan to fly the plane for a while before painting. Thanks to all of you for your help dave On Jun 2, 2008, at 10:43 PM, tom sargent wrote: > > I've had mixed results with UV smooth prime. Often it cures with > tiny bubbles in it or has just too much texture. By the time you > sand all the texture out, it's all gone. It worked well on my > spinner but it seemed like it was an awful lot of work. Recently I > seemed to get better results thinning it slightly - about 5% - with > water. That may suppress the bubbles and texturing a bit. > > Polyfiber advised using a foam roller (their preferred method > apparently) with the smallest foam cell size possible. I think that > did help. It seems I have to put on about 6 very thin coats, then > sand 95% of it away. Yes, 6. That's what they told me. I do 3, > sand it a bit and then 3 more. And you must let it sit for a couple > weeks before painting to let the water get out of it. > > Does any one have any advice on using this stuff? Am I doing it > wrong? Polyfiber doesn't seem to have all the recommended > procedures in one place. Some is on the can, some on their website > and some you get by calling up and asking. Frustrating. But I > guess that's fiberglass for you. It's expensive too. > > -- > Tom S. - RV-6A > stuck in fiberglass hell. > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 09:16:56 AM PST US From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Hanger House Dave, Most houses in the US and Canada are wood framed. I would expect the costs of insurance will have more to do with replacement costs than anything else. The building codes will require a fire separation wall between the hanger and house, just as they will between a garage and a house. This wall will most likely be constructed of gypsum wall board on a frame of whatever the house is framed with, or it could be a concrete wall if the house is concrete. Wood frame construction can and should be designed to handle almost any anticipated wind forces, including hurricanes. Often it is best to see how others are building or have built in the same location to get a feel for the most cost effective methods. Terry RV-8A Seattle Architect (housing) From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of d wntzl Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 7:29 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: Hanger House Hey Guys, I am planning a Hanger House in the Florida Panhandle. Originally planned on a steel stucture, but it is seeming that wood will be considerably more cost effective. My question is if any of you might have a feel for the insurance ramifications of either options?? I would hate to choose wood only to find out later that insurance is outrageous. Thanks, David Wentzell, RV6, Port St. Joe ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 11:19:14 AM PST US From: "Ollie Washburn" <ollie6a@embarqmail.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Hanger House Most of the hanger homes on OUR airpark are of cement block construction and new ones are going in the 450K range. Luckily we got here a few years ago. Ollie, Loves Landing Airpark, Central FL> On Tue, Jun 3, 2008 at 10:29 AM, d wntzl <dwntzl@yahoo.com> wrote: > Hey Guys, > > I am planning a Hanger House in the Florida Panhandle. Originally planned > on a steel > > stucture, but it is seeming that wood will be considerably more cost > effective. My question > > is if any of you might have a feel for the insurance ramifications of either > options?? I would > > hate to choose wood only to find out later that insurance is outrageous. > > Thanks, David Wentzell, RV6, Port St. Joe > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 12:36:45 PM PST US From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Hanger House Most on our airpark have built big steel buildings with a partition to create the house. I could not bring myself to do this (I don't think they are attractive for residential) so I got a quote for a chip face colored block building. Surprise, it was cheaper. That is what I have and I love it. It is attractive, cooler, has flat walls inside, needs no paint, and is residential. Did I mention it looks much better than the steel warehouse buildings? :-) Just my opinion of course. Tim Bryan RV-6 Flying N616TB almost 100 hours now > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ollie Washburn > Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 1:14 PM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Hanger House > > > Most of the hanger homes on OUR airpark are of cement block > construction and new ones are going in the 450K range. Luckily we got > here a few years ago. > > Ollie, Loves Landing Airpark, Central FL> > > On Tue, Jun 3, 2008 at 10:29 AM, d wntzl <dwntzl@yahoo.com> wrote: > > Hey Guys, > > > > I am planning a Hanger House in the Florida Panhandle. Originally > planned > > on a steel > > > > stucture, but it is seeming that wood will be considerably more cost > > effective. My question > > > > is if any of you might have a feel for the insurance ramifications of > either > > options?? I would > > > > hate to choose wood only to find out later that insurance is outrageous. > > > > Thanks, David Wentzell, RV6, Port St. Joe > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:03:16 PM PST US From: tom sargent <sarg314@comcast.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: cowling filler David: Not very long at all. 10 minutes seems to do it. On the spinner, I think I put on the 3 coats one night and the other 3 the next night. David Cudney wrote: > > Tom: > > I called and got similar advice on the roller application. How long did > you let it dry between roller applications to get your three plus three > coats? I plan to let it dry for a couple of weeks after the last > sanding before I apply a seal coat of either epoxy or polyurethane top > primer. They stressed that it is necessary to put on a top coat of a > primer that requires a catalyst particularly if you plan to fly the > plane for a while before painting. > > > Thanks to all of you for your help > > dave > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:21:55 PM PST US From: tom sargent <sarg314@comcast.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: cowling filler I should add that I live in southern arizona, so it's hot and super dry here (5% humidity yesterday) so things dry out fast. tom sargent wrote: > > David: > Not very long at all. 10 minutes seems to do it. On the spinner, I > think I put on the 3 coats one night and the other 3 the next night. > > David Cudney wrote: >> >> Tom: >> >> I called and got similar advice on the roller application. How long >> did you let it dry between roller applications to get your three plus >> three coats? I plan to let it dry for a couple of weeks after the >> last sanding before I apply a seal coat of either epoxy or >> polyurethane top primer. They stressed that it is necessary to put on >> a top coat of a primer that requires a catalyst particularly if you >> plan to fly the plane for a while before painting. >> >> > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 11:46:13 PM PST US
    From: Vanremog@aol.com
    Subject: Say What?
    Lycoming announces this. Recognizing global concerns about the immediate and long-term availability of aviation-grade 100LL fuel, Lycoming Engines _announced_ (http://www.lycoming.com/news-and-events/press-releases/release-06-02-08.jsp) this week that it is working to get approval for the use of unleaded automotive gasoline for its standard-compression-ratio O-360 and IO-360 product lines. Ian Walsh, general manager for Lycoming Engines, told AVweb the approval will not require any modification to the engines, the fuel will not need any additives or special treatment, and there will be no degradation in engine performance. "It's essentially a paperwork drill, to make this happen," he said. He expects to have approval from the FAA by this fall, but owners cannot implement the change until the airplane also gets certified. That is up to the manufacturers, Walsh said, and he could not estimate how long that would take, but said it is also essentially a paperwork issue. The engines will require a specific type of unleaded 93 AKI automotive gas, designated as Euro Norm EN228 (in Europe) or ASTM D4814 (in the U.S.). This fuel is not difficult to find, Walsh said, but users must verify that they are getting that particular type -- not just any unleaded auto gas will do. The unleaded automotive gas is generally cheaper than avgas and provides an alternative in areas where avgas is scarce. Also, the continuing use of leaded avgas provokes environmental concerns. The popular O-360 and IO-360 engines are found on many GA aircraft, including Cessnas, Mooneys, Diamonds, and more. This makes it sound like a slam dunk. Can it really be this easy? N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 895hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley) **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)




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