---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 06/07/08: 5 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:19 AM - Re: Say What? (JFLEISC@aol.com) 2. 06:20 AM - Re: Re: Testing for Ethanol in Mogas was Say What? (Kelly McMullen) 3. 06:23 AM - Re: Say What? (N395V) 4. 11:23 AM - UV SmoothPrime progress (tom sargent) 5. 01:41 PM - Re: UV SmoothPrime progress (linn Walters) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:19:57 AM PST US From: JFLEISC@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Say What? In a message dated 6/6/2008 10:30:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ceengland@bellsouth.net writes: eventually just the premium mogas. The engine runs *much* better on premium mogas. With avgas, plugs are fouled at every startup. (Sub-data point: I lean aggressively & consistently as soon as I pull power back after climbout.) With premium, plugs are always clean at startup. (This is a 1700hr+ SMOH engine with compression in the high 70's but blowing about 1 qt of oil past the chrome cylinders & out the breather every 3 hrs.) It runs great! No intermittent 'auto-rough' like I get on avgas. No noticeable evidence of running hot. My experience exactly. Jim **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:20:25 AM PST US From: Kelly McMullen Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Testing for Ethanol in Mogas was Say What? During the summer RVP is tightly controlled, especially where ethanol must be added. The federal reformulated standard requires summer RVP of 7.6. I think winter is generally 9.0, except extreme cold areas where it can go to 14.0. Adding ethanol raises the base stock RVP by about 1.0. Some hot areas like Aridzona control it further to 7.0 for summer. By comparison, avgas is 7.0 Pete Cowper wrote: > > The reluctance to approve motor vehicle gasoline may be concerns for > vaporizing at higher altitudes. > > When I worked for Union Oil Company back in the 1970's I questioned our > Commercial Sales Engineer from the Brea Research Center about using > aviation gasoline from the airport in a friend's Late Model Sportsman > stock car's Chevy 350 engine. > > He said it would work fine, however it could be hard to start when cold > due to having fewer "light ends" (such as butane, propane, pentane) > which provide easy cold weather starting. These are seasonally blended > out in summer months to prevent vapor lock when cold starting is not a > problem and higher BTUs from heavier distillation cuts (down towards > diesel) provide better mileage for summer vacations. > > Having been out of the oil industry since 1984, I have no idea what > ethanol does to the high altitude performance. > > Pete Cowper > RV-8 #81139 (working on top of fuselage now) > Visalia, California > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:23:45 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: Say What? From: "N395V" > (Kinda makes you > feel like the runup to the Iraq war...) > If you are a liberal running for national office Do not archive -------- Milt 2003 F1 Rocket 2006 Radial Rocket Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186657#186657 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 11:23:58 AM PST US From: tom sargent Subject: RV-List: UV SmoothPrime progress I recently posted about having very spotty results with UV smooth prime. My trouble is that it usually dries with so much texture and tiny bubbles that I have to sand it all off to eliminate the texture, and I'm back where I started. I have read the instructions on the can, read the polyfiber web page and talked to their technical help (all of which is necessary since they don't list all the information in one place!). I have finally, very late in the game, figured out how to put this stuff on. I use the small foam roller they recommend (smallest cell size you can find) but I DO NOT, contrary to directions, use it without dilution. As it comes out of the can it's too viscous and that's why it dries with so much texture. Maybe its because I live in a dry climate (Arizona) and the stuff dries too fast. I don't know. I just finished covering my old-style polyester RV-6A wingtip with it diluted 20% with water. I mix 60 cc (~2 oz) smoothprime + 12cc water + 1cc hardener (covers 1 side of wingtip). Goes on smoother. I put 3 thin coats, waiting 15 minutes in between coats. Then the next day I sand it a bit (till it feels smoother to the touch) and then repeat the process - 3 more coats. The next day I sand for real. While I sand, I very frequently blow off the dust with compressed air and examine with a small bright flashlight shined at a very low, glancing angle to see when that spot is smooth and I should stop sanding there. I examine all pieces this way before I prime. Extremely tedious, but it prevents finding any surprise pinholes after painting. Did I mention that I hate fiberglass? With this method I am able to sand off all the texture and still have some UV smooth prime left. For those unfamiliar with it, this stuff isn't an ordinary pinhole filler that you use for spot filling - Polyfiber says you should put it on thick enough so that when you are done sanding you have not sanded thru the UV smoothprime at all, anywhere. It's for making a new surface on the part. It also isn't primer, contrary to its name. You still have to apply paint primer over it (wait a couple weeks for it to dry out completely, though). I'm happy I figured this out, but I'm P.O.ed that I wasted so much time getting here. All my fiberglass parts except for the cowl and the wingtips are already done. If I knew this 6 months ago, I would be 2 months ahead of where I am now, maybe 3. Needless to say, I don't have a very high opinion of their technical assistance or their documentation. This post is already twice too long. If anyone wants more details about my process, I will gladly post. -- Tom Sargent - RV-6A, getting ready to go to the painter. ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 01:41:41 PM PST US From: linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: UV SmoothPrime progress Excellent post Tom!!! You said " If anyone wants more details about my process, I will gladly post." Please do. Those of us faced with all the FG parts will be indebted to you. I'll bet you won't run out of beers!!! Linn do not archive tom sargent wrote: > > I recently posted about having very spotty results with UV smooth > prime. My trouble is that it usually dries with so much texture and > tiny bubbles that I have to sand it all off to eliminate the texture, > and I'm back where I started. I have read the instructions on the > can, read the polyfiber web page and talked to their technical help > (all of which is necessary since they don't list all the information > in one place!). > > I have finally, very late in the game, figured out how to put this > stuff on. I use the small foam roller they recommend (smallest cell > size you can find) but I DO NOT, contrary to directions, use it > without dilution. As it comes out of the can it's too viscous and > that's why it dries with so much texture. Maybe its because I live in > a dry climate (Arizona) and the stuff dries too fast. I don't know. > > I just finished covering my old-style polyester RV-6A wingtip with it > diluted 20% with water. I mix 60 cc (~2 oz) smoothprime + 12cc water > + 1cc hardener (covers 1 side of wingtip). Goes on smoother. I put 3 > thin coats, waiting 15 minutes in between coats. Then the next day I > sand it a bit (till it feels smoother to the touch) and then repeat > the process - 3 more coats. The next day I sand for real. While I > sand, I very frequently blow off the dust with compressed air and > examine with a small bright flashlight shined at a very low, glancing > angle to see when that spot is smooth and I should stop sanding > there. I examine all pieces this way before I prime. Extremely > tedious, but it prevents finding any surprise pinholes after > painting. Did I mention that I hate fiberglass? > > With this method I am able to sand off all the texture and still have > some UV smooth prime left. For those unfamiliar with it, this stuff > isn't an ordinary pinhole filler that you use for spot filling - > Polyfiber says you should put it on thick enough so that when you are > done sanding you have not sanded thru the UV smoothprime at all, > anywhere. It's for making a new surface on the part. It also isn't > primer, contrary to its name. You still have to apply paint primer > over it (wait a couple weeks for it to dry out completely, though). > > I'm happy I figured this out, but I'm P.O.ed that I wasted so much > time getting here. All my fiberglass parts except for the cowl and the > wingtips are already done. If I knew this 6 months ago, I would be 2 > months ahead of where I am now, maybe 3. Needless to say, I don't > have a very high opinion of their technical assistance or their > documentation. > > This post is already twice too long. If anyone wants more details > about my process, I will gladly post. > -- > Tom Sargent - RV-6A, getting ready to go to the painter. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.