Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:52 AM - strobe wire routing (Lance Sorensen)
2. 09:31 AM - skiins (Wheeler North)
3. 09:56 AM - Re: Elevator Skin Trailing Edge Bowing... (Matt Dralle)
4. 09:58 AM - Re: strobe wire routing (Vanremog@aol.com)
5. 10:49 AM - Re: skiins (Bruce Bell)
6. 11:53 AM - Re: Elevator Skin Trailing Edge Bowing... (Charlie England)
7. 12:41 PM - Flight time with Mike Seager at EAA-486 FZY Fulton, NY (Jim Hurd)
8. 01:11 PM - Need Bi Annual Check (bert murillo)
9. 06:36 PM - Re: strobe wire routing (rv6n@optonline.net)
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | strobe wire routing |
Hello,
I am constructing an RV9A and finishing the fiberglass tip at bottom
of rudder. What is the recommended routing of strobe/position light
wires at
rear of fuselage through to the tip of rudder? Thanks.
Lance Sorensen
Selah, WA
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
The skins may not be the problem, and un-bending it could make it worse.
The spar flanges are likely not perfectly bent to be aimed correctly at the
theoretical point of convergence of both skin radials the proper distance
aft from the spar. Vans spars, and in particular end ribs are rarely bent
accurately enough to create the perfectly shaped V across the entire span of
the surface. Then you spend a bunch of hours banging on that metal even
more.
As well, unbending it will cold work the metal even further and could
possibly damage the skin or set it up for future cracking.
Depending on your paint scheme you probably won't notice it and it will not
affect how it flies in any manner, the airflow is way too messy to matter
back there. (who knows, you may have just reinvented pressure recovery
elevators and it will go faster)
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Elevator Skin Trailing Edge Bowing... |
At 07:09 PM 8/23/2008 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>Matt Dralle wrote:
>>
>>Dear Listers,
>>
>>Backing into the garage today I noticed the elevator skin bowing at the trailing
edge in the review mirror because of the way the light was hitting it. Basically
what the deal is I think is that I bent the trailing edge of the elevators
more than necessary. So, when I pulled the leading edge apart to fit it
over the spar, I now have a concave bowing effect between some of the bays. Van's
goes to great lengths in the manual to make sure that bend the elevator trailing
edges *enough*, but doesn't make mention of what is "too much". The radius
of the trailing edge is still within spec and there is no cracking or stress
marks. Its just bent too much and looks like of stupid.
>>Somehow, I did the rudder perfectly, but both elevators suffer from the effect.
I've included some pictures below.
>>
>>What the common thought on this issue? Are the safety/flutter issues with over-bending
as I have done? What to do...?
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880
>>RV-8 Fuse/Wing QB Kit Delivery Next Week! (Ordered May 20 2008)
>
>I'll bet that there are many flying that look worse.
>
>Do you have RTV in the bend? If yes, you might be stuck with what you've got.
If not:
>
>If it really bothers you, try this (try on a test piece made from some scrap first).
Hold a piece of wood against the trailing edge so that it spans most of
one bay. Use a rubber mallet to drive the wood toward the trailing edge. Light
blows at first, checking for movement. If you use rigid wood, take care to hit
the center of the block so that the force is spread evenly. Light plywood (1/4"
or 3/8") minimizes the risk of the wood's edge digging in & causing a dent.
If you put the assembly on some foam rubber, it will reduce the risk of over-correcting
(or bending something else) since it can move a bit when struck.
Work along the edge with multiple blows & check often.
>
>I used this technique on an aileron when I over-bent trying to fix a heavy wing.
I did use a little RTV in the trailing edges. I can definitely see how that technique
could "unbend" it a bit, but it sounds really scary wacking away on the
trailing edge like that. Were there any adverse results of the process?
Matt Dralle
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: strobe wire routing |
In a message dated 8/24/2008 6:53:37 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
lancej@charter.net writes:
I am constructing an RV9A and finishing the fiberglass tip at bottom
of rudder. What is the recommended routing of strobe/position light
wires at
rear of fuselage through to the tip of rudder?
======================================
My suggestion is always to get some distance along a hinge line, so that the
wiring will tend to flex in torsion. That is, exit the leading edge of the
rudder low and then dress the wire harness up vertically about 3 inches
before then turning and going forward thru the tail post.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 900hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel
deal here.
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
Message 5
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
On my 4 I followed Van's instructions and mine came out ok. I made a brake
out of a piece of redwood 2x6, an old interior door and some door hinges.
Squeezed the trailing edge down till the skin just touched the spar. Worked
for me. I think you will not be happy till you get it just like you want it!
Regards, Bruce Bell RV-4 N23BB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 11:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: skiins
>
> The skins may not be the problem, and un-bending it could make it worse.
>
> The spar flanges are likely not perfectly bent to be aimed correctly at
> the
> theoretical point of convergence of both skin radials the proper distance
> aft from the spar. Vans spars, and in particular end ribs are rarely bent
> accurately enough to create the perfectly shaped V across the entire span
> of
> the surface. Then you spend a bunch of hours banging on that metal even
> more.
>
> As well, unbending it will cold work the metal even further and could
> possibly damage the skin or set it up for future cracking.
>
> Depending on your paint scheme you probably won't notice it and it will
> not
> affect how it flies in any manner, the airflow is way too messy to matter
> back there. (who knows, you may have just reinvented pressure recovery
> elevators and it will go faster)
>
>
>
Message 6
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Elevator Skin Trailing Edge Bowing... |
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> At 07:09 PM 8/23/2008 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>>
>> Matt Dralle wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Dear Listers,
>>>
>>> Backing into the garage today I noticed the elevator skin bowing at the trailing
edge in the review mirror because of the way the light was hitting it.
Basically what the deal is I think is that I bent the trailing edge of the elevators
more than necessary. So, when I pulled the leading edge apart to fit it
over the spar, I now have a concave bowing effect between some of the bays.
Van's goes to great lengths in the manual to make sure that bend the elevator
trailing edges *enough*, but doesn't make mention of what is "too much". The
radius of the trailing edge is still within spec and there is no cracking or
stress marks. Its just bent too much and looks like of stupid.
>>> Somehow, I did the rudder perfectly, but both elevators suffer from the effect.
I've included some pictures below.
>>>
>>> What the common thought on this issue? Are the safety/flutter issues with
over-bending as I have done? What to do...?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Matt Dralle
>>> RV-8 #82880
>>> RV-8 Fuse/Wing QB Kit Delivery Next Week! (Ordered May 20 2008)
>>>
>> I'll bet that there are many flying that look worse.
>>
>> Do you have RTV in the bend? If yes, you might be stuck with what you've got.
If not:
>>
>> If it really bothers you, try this (try on a test piece made from some scrap
first). Hold a piece of wood against the trailing edge so that it spans most
of one bay. Use a rubber mallet to drive the wood toward the trailing edge. Light
blows at first, checking for movement. If you use rigid wood, take care to
hit the center of the block so that the force is spread evenly. Light plywood
(1/4" or 3/8") minimizes the risk of the wood's edge digging in & causing a dent.
If you put the assembly on some foam rubber, it will reduce the risk of over-correcting
(or bending something else) since it can move a bit when struck.
Work along the edge with multiple blows & check often.
>>
>> I used this technique on an aileron when I over-bent trying to fix a heavy wing.
>>
>
>
> I did use a little RTV in the trailing edges. I can definitely see how that
technique could "unbend" it a bit, but it sounds really scary wacking away on
the trailing edge like that. Were there any adverse results of the process?
>
> Matt Dralle
No adverse affects if it's done right. :-) I did it in '94 on a plane I
bought already flying. I sold it in 2001 & haven't heard of any issues
since then. FWIW, I don't think that I dreamed this up; it probably came
from someone more experienced than me at the time.
If the RTV is down in the fold where you need to open it up, it'll be a
real problem to open the fold without causing more problems. If it just
bridges between the stiffeners (away from the fold), you can probably
get away with it.
You're right, it is scary & you can do more harm than good. Note that I
said 'if it really bothers you'.
Option 1, leave it alone; unless you're building an award contender,
only you will talk about it. ("A gentleman never points out [cosmetic]
flaws in another gentleman's creation.") As I said, there are many
flying safely that are much worse.
Option 2, (if you just can't stand it), try it; it will either work or
not and since you'd be building another anyway you have nothing to lose.
Option 3, disassemble to open it up (pretty much the same as building a
new one).
Option 4, ask Van's (they will say pick option 1 :-) ).
Charlie
Message 7
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Flight time with Mike Seager at EAA-486 FZY Fulton, NY |
Hi All,
I am still trying to fill the available slots for time with Mike Seager
September 12-14, 2008 at
Oswego County Airport (FZY), Fulton, NY
Please contact me at 315-761-1702 (leave a message if I
cannot answer) or at jhurd1@twcny.rr.com to schedule your time with Mike.
I need to hear from you by Aug 28th if you wish to schedule time with
Mike so that I can let him know if there is enough work here to make it
worth his trip to central New York.
Thanks,
Jim Hurd
http://eaachapter486.com/
Message 8
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Need Bi Annual Check |
Hi:
Any one interested in giving me the BiAnnual. I am near Orlando,
in Deland Airport (DED)
I have an RV6A,,,,Want to fly to Deland? or Executive in Orlando, I will
Pick you there and drive to Deland...or meet lyou at the Air port...
Any one Interested, can call me at 407 384.4961 Evenings or
Cellular 407.403.4186
thanks , Bert
342BM Rv6a
do not archive
Message 9
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: strobe wire routing |
Lance,
I agree with the suggestion from "Vanremong". That sounds like an excellent idea.
I did not put a strobe in my rudder, but that sounds like a great idea.
do not archive
Bob Bales
N954RB
RV6
80 hr TT
-- Original Message -----
From: Lance Sorensen
Subject: RV-List: strobe wire routing
>
> Hello,
>
> I am constructing an RV9A and finishing the fiberglass tip at
> bottom
> of rudder. What is the recommended routing of strobe/position
> light
> wires at
> rear of fuselage through to the tip of rudder? Thanks.
>
> Lance Sorensen
> Selah, WA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|