Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:50 AM - Re: IMC - What If??? (N395V)
2. 06:07 AM - Re: Re: IMC - What If??? (Bruce Gray)
3. 06:32 AM - Running AOA tubing in RV-6A (Don Mack)
4. 07:05 AM - Re: Re: rivets working (Jack Hilditch)
5. 07:33 AM - RV-6 / 6a kits for sale (Scott Kuebler)
6. 07:46 AM - Re: Re: IMC - What If??? (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mich=E8le_W?=)
7. 07:46 AM - Re: Save me from UGLY! (David Schaefer)
8. 07:49 AM - Re: IMC - What If??? (Valovich, Paul)
9. 08:34 AM - Re: Re: rivets working (mr.gsun@gmail.com)
10. 08:37 AM - Re: Running AOA tubing in RV-6A (Ralph E. Capen)
11. 08:39 AM - Re: IMC - What If??? (Bruce Gray)
12. 08:53 AM - Re: Running AOA tubing in RV-6A (Sam Buchanan)
13. 09:59 AM - Re: Running AOA tubing in RV-6A (John Fasching)
14. 10:26 AM - Re: IMC - What If??? (Charles Kuss)
15. 10:33 AM - Re: Running AOA tubing in RV-6A (Ralph E. Capen)
16. 10:37 AM - Re: Re: Oil leak (Christopher Stone)
17. 11:36 AM - Re: Running AOA tubing in RV-6A (Sam Buchanan)
18. 12:08 PM - Re: Running AOA tubing in RV-6A (Ralph E. Capen)
19. 12:12 PM - Re: Save me from UGLY! (rwhittier)
20. 01:47 PM - Re: Re: Oil leak (JFLEISC@aol.com)
21. 06:10 PM - Re: Re: Save me from UGLY! (David Schaefer)
22. 08:05 PM - Re: Re: rivets working (Hedrick)
23. 08:05 PM - Re: Re: rivets working (Hedrick)
24. 08:05 PM - Re: Re: rivets working (Hedrick)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: IMC - What If??? |
Its not only the EFIS or its programming you need to worry about.
My F1 was all electric. 2 different EFISs.
All went black when the solenoid failed.
You need to plan backup into the sytems of the aircraft also.
--------
Milt
2003 F1 Rocket
2006 Radial Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6712#206712
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: IMC - What If??? |
That's why my ADI backup is Vacuum.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of N395V
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 8:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: IMC - What If???
Its not only the EFIS or its programming you need to worry about.
My F1 was all electric. 2 different EFISs.
All went black when the solenoid failed.
You need to plan backup into the sytems of the aircraft also.
--------
Milt
2003 F1 Rocket
2006 Radial Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6712#206712
Message 3
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Subject: | Running AOA tubing in RV-6A |
Hello,
I am trying to add an AOA to my Dynon on my 6A. It connects to the Dynon
Pitot. I am attempting to run the tubing behind the tank and in front of the
spar. I am trying to do this without removing the tank. I can not get the
tube to go through. It feels like it is going to the end of the tank and
being blocked. I shined a flashlight down the space at the wing root in a
dark hanger and could not see any light when I looked from the wingtip to
the tank. I do not see anything on the plans that would indicate something
is there. Does anyone know if there is something there or a suggesting for
running the tube?
Don Mack
Message 4
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Subject: | RE: rivets working |
Good morning,
There's an excellent discussion on the engineering tips forum on rivets and
replacement (albeit on much heavier airframes) but it is certainly worth a read.
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=15349
<http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=15349&page=6> &page=6 I would also
guess that you could get a specific answer there as well.
Regards,
Jack
Riviting my RV-9A Fuselage at the moment.
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 11:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: rivets working
Working rivets, sometimes called "Smokin Rivets" can be the result of flight
induced stress and strain from flight forces, airframe design technique and
riveting technique. Often, the removed rivets have "Fretted" in their
respective holes. Fretting is a form of corrosion.
The removal and re-riveting is one method of remediation. Installing the
replaced rivets "Wet" is another. There are lots of RV6 guys who should pipe in
as to whether this is a reasonably common incident.
I have completed a Pre-purchase Inspection and then subsequent Conditional
Inspection on a 9 year old, 900 hour 6A without such a finding on a base white
topcoat. Cracks which developed early in the flight life have been followed
without apparent growth. We measured each and documented them for quantitative
comparison next January. These are valued issues to discuss. The original
owner moved onto an RV-10 and is now tackling an RV-3 project.
John Cox
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hedrick
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 7:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: rivets working
Any thoughts on some rivets that are working in the horizontal stabilizer in my
RV 6. it is the inboard rivets and it is on both sides. I have noticed this
over a 3 or 4 yr period and it continues to involve more rivets.
Is this a common thing in older rv's, mine is a vintage 1991. in fact it was
#
9 rv 6 kit sold. The air frame has almost 1000 hrs on it. how do I stop it and
how do I fix the damage ?
Thanks
Keith Hedrick
64DK
@ 3LF
Checked by AVG.
9/27/2008 1:11 PM
Checked by AVG.
9/27/2008 1:11 PM
Checked by AVG.
9/27/2008 1:11 PM
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 5
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Subject: | RV-6 / 6a kits for sale |
RV-6 / 6a kits for sale.
Empennage: Complete except for fiberglass tips. Includes electric elevator
trim kit. All parts are alodined and primed with Marhyde primer.
Wings & Phlogiston Spar: Both skeletons fully assembled. Top skins
riveted. Both tanks are complete and sealed. Flaps and ailerons complete,
but not fitted. Includes electric aileron trim kit. All parts are alodined
and primed with Deft epoxy primer (Mil-P-23377G).
Both kits are the pre-punched versions purchased in 1997 & 1998 by myself.
Construction is excellent. Preview plans and Orndorff videos are included
for both kits.
Detailed photos are available upon request.
Must sell. The first $3750 takes it all. Buyer arranges transportation.
If all items were purchased separately the price would be more than $6500
for the unassembled kits.
Regards,
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
716-510-0318- cell
scottam65@gmail.com
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: IMC - What If??? |
Thought I'd add my 2 cents - Both my AFS 3400/3500 have internal batteries,
1/2 hr each. Plus a portable VHF and a portable GPS.
Michle
RV8 - trying to get it finished.
-----Message d'origine-----
De: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] De la part de Bruce Gray
Envoy: lundi 29 septembre 2008 15:07
: rv-list@matronics.com
Objet: RE: RV-List: Re: IMC - What If???
That's why my ADI backup is Vacuum.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of N395V
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 8:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: IMC - What If???
Its not only the EFIS or its programming you need to worry about.
My F1 was all electric. 2 different EFISs.
All went black when the solenoid failed.
You need to plan backup into the sytems of the aircraft also.
--------
Milt
2003 F1 Rocket
2006 Radial Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6712#206712
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Save me from UGLY! |
That's the plan. I'm working on a mount to attach to the baggage
compartment wall and move the unit forward about 12" into the canopy. The
unit already has the option to remotely turn on and it will feed my GRTs. I
just wanted to see if anyone else had done it yet!
Thanks...
DWS
On Sun, Sep 28, 2008 at 10:16 PM, Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com> wrote:
> You can remote mount the current unit if you have a TIS compatible
> display like a 396/496. There's an internal jumper mod they can do to
> allow it to power up without having to press a front panel button. I had a
> long conversation with Zane (the ZA of Zaon) and he said they do the mod for
> sailplane installations. You still have to put the antenna somewhere it's
> not seriously blocked. He did say you could adjust the gain of each quadrant
> separately to deal with some location issues.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *David Schaefer
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 28, 2008 7:23 PM
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Save me from UGLY!
>
> Matt ... I suspect the wait will be a VERY long time. They have dumped
> the idea prior to OSH this year.
>
> Thanks....
> DWS
>
> On Sun, Sep 28, 2008 at 11:39 AM, Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>wrote:
>
>>
>> Zaon is working on a remote mounted version of their collision avoidance
>> system that will have a "black box", external antenna(s), and probably a
>> 3.125" "instrument" for display/control. If you're going to be feeding an
>> EFIS, then you might not even need to mount the 3.125" on the panel as
>> control and display could come from the EFIS. Send Zaon Support some email
>> and ask them about their "panel mount" version and when it will be
>> available. Report back; I'm waiting for the panel mount version for my
>> RV-8, although my panel is already full and adding a 3.125" is going to be
>> tough...
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880
>>
>>
>> At 04:45 PM 9/27/2008 Saturday, you wrote:
>> >I'm working on a plan to install a Zaon traffic monitor in the 6A-slider.
>> However, I can't take the idea of that ugly box above the panel!! Not to
>> mention the view it will block. I'm working on a plan to mount it off the
>> baggage compartment bulkhead with a mount that moves it up into the canopy
>> and about 8" to 10" forward so it's about 12" to 18" or so up behind the
>> passengers head. SHOULD have a good view of the sky and yet be out of the
>> way with the display sent to my EFIS units.
>> >
>> >Any other thoughts where to mount this?
>> >
>> >Has anyone done this yet so I don't have to re-invent the wheel?!?
>> >
>> >Thanks.....
>> >
>> >--
>> >David W. Schaefer
>> >RV-6A N142DS formerly "Geek One' reborn "Nerdgasm"
>> >TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
>> ><http://www.n142ds.com>www.n142ds.com
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
>> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> David W. Schaefer
> RV-6A N142DS formerly "Geek One' reborn "Nerdgasm"
> TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
> www.n142ds.com
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS formerly "Geek One' reborn "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: IMC - What If??? |
Since I started this thread with what I thought was a straight-forward pres
entation of the analysis I used in determining my panel configuration, perh
aps an addition of a not-mentioned analysis factor will provide additional
fuel to this debate. That factor is the reliability of vacuum -powered ins
truments in the days before glass cockpits.
While the focus of recent posts has been on EFIS failure what ifs, it was m
y understanding that the weak link of pre-EFIS IFR flight was vacuum pump r
eliability. Is that a correct statement?
If it is correct, then the pre-EFIS analogy to EFIS failure is IMC flight w
ith no vacuum pump. What if???????????
Seems like the challenges would be the same - establishing controlled fligh
t in an upright attitude and having enough confidence in the tools and proc
edures available in that mode to get it on the ground.
So what do you old guys have to say?
Booger
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: RE: rivets working |
Since there are just a few rivets that are somewhat loose in the hole, how
about a little clear epoxy forced down into the hole and squeegied off the
painted surface before it dries? I remember flying a lot of hours in an
Grumman American Yankee that was held together with epoxy. Wouldn't that
work fine until there are a significant number of loose rivets in the same
area?
do not archive
On Mon, Sep 29, 2008 at 7:03 AM, Jack Hilditch <wmjack1@t3cs.net> wrote:
> Good morning,
>
>
> There's an excellent discussion on the engineering tips forum on rivets and
> replacement (albeit on much heavier airframes) but it is certainly worth a
> read.
>
> http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=15349&page=6 I would also
> guess that you could get a specific answer there as well.
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
> *Jack *
>
> *Riviting my RV-9A Fuselage at the moment.***
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John Cox
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 28, 2008 11:31 PM
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV-List: RE: rivets working
>
>
> Working rivets, sometimes called "Smokin Rivets" can be the result of
> flight induced stress and strain from flight forces, airframe design
> technique and riveting technique. Often, the removed rivets have "Fretted"
> in their respective holes. Fretting is a form of corrosion.
>
>
> The removal and re-riveting is one method of remediation. Installing the
> replaced rivets "Wet" is another. There are lots of RV6 guys who should
> pipe in as to whether this is a reasonably common incident.
>
>
> I have completed a Pre-purchase Inspection and then subsequent Conditional
> Inspection on a 9 year old, 900 hour 6A without such a finding on a base
> white topcoat. Cracks which developed early in the flight life have been
> followed without apparent growth. We measured each and documented them for
> quantitative comparison next January. These are valued issues to discuss.
> The original owner moved onto an RV-10 and is now tackling an RV-3 project.
>
>
> John Cox
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Hedrick
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 28, 2008 7:33 PM
> *To:* 'Hedrick'; rv-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV-List: RE: rivets working
>
>
> Any thoughts on some rivets that are working in the horizontal stabilizer
> in my RV 6. it is the inboard rivets and it is on both sides. I have
> noticed this over a 3 or 4 yr period and it continues to involve more
> rivets.
>
>
> Is this a common thing in older rv's, mine is a vintage 1991. in fact it
> was # 9 rv 6 kit sold. The air frame has almost 1000 hrs on it. how do I
> stop it and how do I fix the damage ?
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Keith Hedrick
>
> 64DK
>
> @ 3LF
>
>
> Checked by AVG.
> 9/27/2008 1:11 PM
>
>
> Checked by AVG.
> 9/27/2008 1:11 PM
>
>
> Checked by AVG.
> 9/27/2008 1:11 PM
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
>
> * *
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> * *
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Running AOA tubing in RV-6A |
Don,
IIRC, there is a double rib just outboard of the tank which I drilled through and
put in a set of grommets.
To carry the line, I removed a few of the nutplates for the top attach screws and
put an angle bracket under them for an additional nutplate which fastened an
adel clamp....about three places. I have pictures at home...if you want 'em.
I think I can state with confidence that the tank will need to come off - unless
you snake the hose through the lightening hole in the double rib - but it'll
probably rub there.
Ralph
RV6AQB Slider N822AR @ N06 - getting my final airworthiness application paperwork
reviewed.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: Don Mack <don@dmack.net>
>Sent: Sep 29, 2008 9:29 AM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Running AOA tubing in RV-6A
>
>
>Hello,
>
>I am trying to add an AOA to my Dynon on my 6A. It connects to the Dynon
>Pitot. I am attempting to run the tubing behind the tank and in front of the
>spar. I am trying to do this without removing the tank. I can not get the
>tube to go through. It feels like it is going to the end of the tank and
>being blocked. I shined a flashlight down the space at the wing root in a
>dark hanger and could not see any light when I looked from the wingtip to
>the tank. I do not see anything on the plans that would indicate something
>is there. Does anyone know if there is something there or a suggesting for
>running the tube?
>
>Don Mack
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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|
Subject: | IMC - What If??? |
True, but we've flown behind the standard six-pack for decades and it's
failure modes are well known and recognized. EFIS failures are more
insidious and, unless the screen goes dark, not easy to discern.
Vac pump failure is the weak link but with proper maintenance (or a wet
vac
pump), system reliability can be high.
Bruce
<http://www.glasair.org/> www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Valovich, Paul
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: IMC - What If???
Since I started this thread with what I thought was a straight-forward
presentation of the analysis I used in determining my panel
configuration,
perhaps an addition of a not-mentioned analysis factor will provide
additional fuel to this debate. That factor is the reliability of
vacuum
-powered instruments in the days before glass cockpits.
While the focus of recent posts has been on EFIS failure what ifs, it
was my
understanding that the weak link of pre-EFIS IFR flight was vacuum pump
reliability. Is that a correct statement?
If it is correct, then the pre-EFIS analogy to EFIS failure is IMC
flight
with no vacuum pump. What if???????????
Seems like the challenges would be the same - establishing controlled
flight
in an upright attitude and having enough confidence in the tools and
procedures available in that mode to get it on the ground.
So what do you old guys have to say?
Booger
Message 12
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|
Subject: | Re: Running AOA tubing in RV-6A |
No need to remove a tank!
I added an LRI AOA to my flying RV-6 and the probe lines are routed
through the wing rib lightning holes. Just use commons sense for
securing the tubing to the ribs. I slipped a short length of rubber hose
over the tubing at the ribs, drilled a 1/4" hole near the edge of a
lightning hole, and secured the tubing to the rib with a zip tie. Other
simple methods will work as well, no need to get complicated.
If you have a wiring conduit in the wing, you may be able to snake the
tubing down the conduit.
Sam Buchanan
========================
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
> <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
> Don,
>
> IIRC, there is a double rib just outboard of the tank which I drilled
> through and put in a set of grommets.
>
> To carry the line, I removed a few of the nutplates for the top
> attach screws and put an angle bracket under them for an additional
> nutplate which fastened an adel clamp....about three places. I have
> pictures at home...if you want 'em.
>
> I think I can state with confidence that the tank will need to come
> off - unless you snake the hose through the lightening hole in the
> double rib - but it'll probably rub there.
>
> Ralph RV6AQB Slider N822AR @ N06 - getting my final airworthiness
> application paperwork reviewed.....
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Don Mack <don@dmack.net> Sent: Sep 29, 2008 9:29 AM To:
>> rv-list@matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Running AOA tubing in RV-6A
>>
>>
>>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I am trying to add an AOA to my Dynon on my 6A. It connects to the
>> Dynon Pitot. I am attempting to run the tubing behind the tank and
>> in front of the spar. I am trying to do this without removing the
>> tank. I can not get the tube to go through. It feels like it is
>> going to the end of the tank and being blocked. I shined a
>> flashlight down the space at the wing root in a dark hanger and
>> could not see any light when I looked from the wingtip to the tank.
>> I do not see anything on the plans that would indicate something is
>> there. Does anyone know if there is something there or a suggesting
>> for running the tube?
>>
>> Don Mack
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Running AOA tubing in RV-6A |
Sam is right, I cut a slit in the flex conduit in the wings and ran the
tubes from the LRI into it and pushed them to the fuselage...works just
fine.
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: IMC - What If??? |
Paul,
Another way to improve reliability with vacuum attitude instruments is to use
a "wet" vacuum pump, rather than a dry (oil-less) unit.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Mon, 9/29/08, Valovich, Paul <pvalovich@dcscorp.com> wrote:
> From: Valovich, Paul <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: IMC - What If???
> To: "rv-list@matronics.com" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Date: Monday, September 29, 2008, 10:49 AM
> Since I started this thread with what I thought was a
> straight-forward presentation of the analysis I used in
> determining my panel configuration, perhaps an addition of a
> not-mentioned analysis factor will provide additional fuel
> to this debate. That factor is the reliability of vacuum
> -powered instruments in the days before glass cockpits.
>
> While the focus of recent posts has been on EFIS failure
> what ifs, it was my understanding that the weak link of
> pre-EFIS IFR flight was vacuum pump reliability. Is that a
> correct statement?
>
> If it is correct, then the pre-EFIS analogy to EFIS failure
> is IMC flight with no vacuum pump. What if???????????
>
> Seems like the challenges would be the same - establishing
> controlled flight in an upright attitude and having enough
> confidence in the tools and procedures available in that
> mode to get it on the ground.
>
> So what do you old guys have to say?
> Booger
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Running AOA tubing in RV-6A |
John and Sam may be right about being able to run it without removing the tank
by using the flex tubing - I recall my tubing being aft of the spar and Don is
trying to go forward of the spar. Depending on where the Dynon computer is mounted,
you may have to cross the spar eventually.
-----Original Message-----
>From: John Fasching <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>Sent: Sep 29, 2008 12:57 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Running AOA tubing in RV-6A
>
>
>Sam is right, I cut a slit in the flex conduit in the wings and ran the
>tubes from the LRI into it and pushed them to the fuselage...works just
>fine.
>
>
Message 16
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|
Thanks for the further explination. Have you had any problem with the breather
coking up from the heat of the exhaust? How far upstream is the breather intersection
from the end of the exhaust outlet?
Thanks,
Chris Stone
RV-8
Newberg, OR
>
>
>Chris,
> I would be glad to help but the right angle is relative to your installation.
The goal though is simple; you want to create at the very least a neutral
pressure effect and optimally a little negative pressure for positive crankcase
ventilation. What I did for mine was to find a spot on one of the exhaust tubes
that is relatively close to the end but free of interference from engine and
airframe and not so close the oil doesnt get a chance to burn. I cut a hole
in it and then fitted the tube to fit at about a 45 degree angle back and flush
with the inside of the exhaust tube gound to fit the curvature. Now some have
shown to extend the tube into the exhaust to create a greater effect. I believe
with a single tube that would cause restrictions, but with the 4 into 1 collector
you could probably get by with it. I really wish I had a dyno an extra
engine and some vacuum gauges to put it to science, but I dont.
>
>Like anything getting close to or into the exhaust there is the risk of fire.
So one should be careful to have enough tube coming out of the exhaust (about
3 to 4 inches depending on airflow) to keep the heat from burning the breather
tube and you should replace the breather tube with high temp hose. I used the
blue hose from AC spruce and so far no discoloration or sign of stress, so I
guess it is OK.
>
>I hope that helps. Summit racing and other race shops sell kits to do such a
thing and one I found had a screw in weldment which I used on the acrosport. But
I did grind off some of the screw in tube to keep it from protruding too much
into the exhaust pipe. SO it might be worth looking into too.
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6418#206418
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Running AOA tubing in RV-6A |
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
> <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
> John and Sam may be right about being able to run it without removing
> the tank by using the flex tubing - I recall my tubing being aft of
> the spar and Don is trying to go forward of the spar. Depending on
> where the Dynon computer is mounted, you may have to cross the spar
> eventually.
The tubing has to go to the panel to be connected to the Dynon. The spar
can be crossed at the same place as all the stuff going to the back of
the airplane.
Sam Buchanan
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Running AOA tubing in RV-6A |
Agreed!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>Sent: Sep 29, 2008 2:34 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Running AOA tubing in RV-6A
>
>
>Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>> <recapen@earthlink.net>
>>
>> John and Sam may be right about being able to run it without removing
>> the tank by using the flex tubing - I recall my tubing being aft of
>> the spar and Don is trying to go forward of the spar. Depending on
>> where the Dynon computer is mounted, you may have to cross the spar
>> eventually.
>
>The tubing has to go to the panel to be connected to the Dynon. The spar
>can be crossed at the same place as all the stuff going to the back of
>the airplane.
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>
Message 19
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|
Subject: | Re: Save me from UGLY! |
I am struggling with the same dilemma. I would really like to do the same but worry
the performance will suffer by metal shielding signals - either inbound or
outbound. Please post pictures of what you decide. Thanks.
[quote="n142ds(at)gmail.com"]That's the plan. I'm working on a mount to attach
to the baggage compartment wall and move the unit forward about 12" into the
canopy. The unit already has the option to remotely turn on and it will feed
my GRTs. I just wanted to see if anyone else had done it yet!
Thanks...
DWS
On Sun, Sep 28, 2008 at 10:16 PM, Greg Young wrote:
> You can remote mount the current unit if you have a TIS compatible display
like a 396/496. There's an internal jumper mod they can do to allow it to
power up without having to press a front panel button. I had a long conversation
with Zane (the ZA of Zaon) and he said they do the mod for sailplane installations.
You still have to put the antenna somewhere it's not seriously blocked.
He did say you could adjust the gain of each quadrant separately to deal
with some location issues.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young
>
>
>
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)] On Behalf Of David Schaefer
> > Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 7:23 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com (rv-list@matronics.com)
> >
> > Subject: Re: Save me from UGLY!
> >
> >
> >
> > Matt ... I suspect the wait will be a VERY long time. They have dumped
the idea prior to OSH this year.
> >
> > Thanks....
> > DWS
> >
> > On Sun, Sep 28, 2008 at 11:39 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
> > >
> > > Zaon is working on a remote mounted version of their collision avoidance
system that will have a "black box", external antenna(s), and probably
a 3.125" "instrument" for display/control. If you're going to be feeding
an EFIS, then you might not even need to mount the 3.125" on the panel
as control and display could come from the EFIS. Send Zaon Support some
email and ask them about their "panel mount" version and when it will be
available. Report back; I'm waiting for the panel mount version for my
RV-8, although my panel is already full and adding a 3.125" is going to
be tough...
> > >
> > > Matt Dralle
> > > RV-8 #82880
> > >
> > >
> > > At 04:45 PM 9/27/2008 Saturday, you wrote:
> > >
> > > > I'm working on a plan to install a Zaon traffic monitor in the 6A-slider.
However, I can't take the idea of that ugly box above the panel!!
Not to mention the view it will block. I'm working on a plan to mount
it off the baggage compartment bulkhead with a mount that moves it up into
the canopy and about 8" to 10" forward so it's about 12" to 18" or so up
behind the passengers head. SHOULD have a good view of the sky and yet
be out of the way with the display sent to my EFIS units.
> > > >
> > > > Any other thoughts where to mount this?
> > > >
> > > > Has anyone done this yet so I don't have to re-invent the wheel?!?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks.....
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > David W. Schaefer
> > > > RV-6A N142DS formerly "Geek One' reborn "Nerdgasm"
> > > > TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT
EFIS
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > www.n142ds.com (http://www.n142ds.com)
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> > > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com (dralle@matronics.com)
Email
> > > http://www.matronics.com/ (http://www.matronics.com/) WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > David W. Schaefer
> > RV-6A N142DS formerly "Geek One' reborn "Nerdgasm"
> > TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
> > www.n142ds.com (http://www.n142ds.com)
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List)">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List)
> > > href="http://forums.matronics.com (http://forums.matronics.com)">http://forums.matronics.com (http://forums.matronics.com)
> > > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution (http://www.matronics.com/contribution)">http://www.matronics.com/c (http://www.matronics.com/c)
> > >
> >
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
--
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS formerly "Geek One' reborn "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com (http://www.n142ds.com)
> [b]
--------
Roger Whittier
RV7A Tip Up, N1MY Reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6794#206794
Message 20
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|
In a message dated 9/29/2008 1:39:25 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rv8iator@earthlink.net writes:
Like anything getting close to or into the exhaust there is the risk of
fire. So one should be careful to have enough tube coming out of the exhaust
(about 3 to 4 inches depending on airflow) to keep the heat from burning the
breather tube and you should replace the breather tube with high temp hose. I
used the blue hose from AC spruce and so far no discoloration or sign of
stress, so I guess it is OK.
Crankcase ventilation systems have their down side. I experimented a lot
with these back in the 70's on air cooled VW engines and I did, in fact, have a
dynamometer to run these systems on. There was a theory that by putting a
vacuum on the crankcase, and thus on the back side of the pistons, you would have
that much more pressure "offset" on the top of the pistons to translate into
power. It's nonsense if you think about it but I tried it anyway (no power
to be seen). By placing the tube at the junction of a 4 into 1 exhaust you
would be at the point of maximum venturi. Let me tell you; when done correctly
at least that part works. At higher RPM the vacuum is tremendous! So much so
that the engine constantly inhaled valve cover gaskets (a pretty big down
side). The plus side is that NO oil leaks out while its running.
The danger here is that you should have a flame arrestor in the crank
vent tubing just like cars used to have in the air cleaner to valve cover tube
back in the 60's. With the right amount of gas diluted in your oil a backfire
could potentially ruin your day.
Jim
**************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial
challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and
calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001)
Message 21
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|
Subject: | Re: Save me from UGLY! |
Certainly... actually if it's up in the canopy I don't believe I'll get the
shielding issues as I would on the dash. We'll see. I've got the mount
about done. I'll post pictures on the web-site as I make progress.
Thanks...
DWS
On Mon, Sep 29, 2008 at 2:12 PM, rwhittier <flycirrus@aol.com> wrote:
>
> I am struggling with the same dilemma. I would really like to do the same
> but worry the performance will suffer by metal shielding signals - either
> inbound or outbound. Please post pictures of what you decide. Thanks.
>
>
> [quote="n142ds(at)gmail.com"]That's the plan. I'm working on a mount to
> attach to the baggage compartment wall and move the unit forward about 12"
> into the canopy. The unit already has the option to remotely turn on and
> it will feed my GRTs. I just wanted to see if anyone else had done it yet!
>
> Thanks...
> DWS
>
> On Sun, Sep 28, 2008 at 10:16 PM, Greg Young wrote:
>
> > You can remote mount the current unit if you have a TIS compatible
> display like a 396/496. There's an internal jumper mod they can do to allow
> it to power up without having to press a front panel button. I had a long
> conversation with Zane (the ZA of Zaon) and he said they do the mod for
> sailplane installations. You still have to put the antenna somewhere it's
> not seriously blocked. He did say you could adjust the gain of each
> quadrant separately to deal with some location issues.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Greg Young
> >
> >
> >
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com (
> owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com) [mailto:
> owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)]
> On Behalf Of David Schaefer
> > > Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 7:23 PM
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com (rv-list@matronics.com)
> > >
> > > Subject: Re: Save me from UGLY!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Matt ... I suspect the wait will be a VERY long time. They have
> dumped the idea prior to OSH this year.
> > >
> > > Thanks....
> > > DWS
> > >
> > > On Sun, Sep 28, 2008 at 11:39 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
> > > >
> > > > Zaon is working on a remote mounted version of their collision
> avoidance system that will have a "black box", external antenna(s), and
> probably a 3.125" "instrument" for display/control. If you're going to
> be feeding an EFIS, then you might not even need to mount the 3.125" on
> the panel as control and display could come from the EFIS. Send Zaon
> Support some email and ask them about their "panel mount" version and
> when it will be available. Report back; I'm waiting for the panel
> mount version for my RV-8, although my panel is already full and adding
> a 3.125" is going to be tough...
> > > >
> > > > Matt Dralle
> > > > RV-8 #82880
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > At 04:45 PM 9/27/2008 Saturday, you wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > I'm working on a plan to install a Zaon traffic monitor in the
> 6A-slider. However, I can't take the idea of that ugly box above the
> panel!! Not to mention the view it will block. I'm working on a plan
> to mount it off the baggage compartment bulkhead with a mount that moves it
> up into the canopy and about 8" to 10" forward so it's about 12" to 18"
> or so up behind the passengers head. SHOULD have a good view of the
> sky and yet be out of the way with the display sent to my EFIS
> units.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any other thoughts where to mount this?
> > > > >
> > > > > Has anyone done this yet so I don't have to re-invent the
> wheel?!?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks.....
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > David W. Schaefer
> > > > > RV-6A N142DS formerly "Geek One' reborn "Nerdgasm"
> > > > > TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended
> Airfoil, GRT EFIS
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > www.n142ds.com (http://www.n142ds.com)
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> > > > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com (
> dralle@matronics.com) Email
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/ (http://www.matronics.com/) WWW |
> Featuring Products For Aircraft
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > David W. Schaefer
> > > RV-6A N142DS formerly "Geek One' reborn "Nerdgasm"
> > > TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT
> EFIS
> > > www.n142ds.com (http://www.n142ds.com)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List (
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List)">
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List (
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List)
> > > > href="http://forums.matronics.com (http://forums.matronics.com)">
> http://forums.matronics.com (http://forums.matronics.com)
> > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution (
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution)">http://www.matronics.com/c (
> http://www.matronics.com/c)
> > > >
> > >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> David W. Schaefer
> RV-6A N142DS formerly "Geek One' reborn "Nerdgasm"
> TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
> www.n142ds.com (http://www.n142ds.com)
>
>
> > [b]
>
>
> --------
> Roger Whittier
> RV7A Tip Up, N1MY Reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6794#206794
>
>
--
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS formerly "Geek One' reborn "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com
Message 22
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|
Subject: | RE: rivets working |
Thanks Jack I have read some of this over, and will read it all.
(later) Well, I read a lot of it, and now my head hurts, I am just a
hillbilly from S IL. Way above my head, there are some engineers talking
lots of experience there.
Keith Hedrick
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack Hilditch
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 9:04 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: rivets working
Good morning,
There's an excellent discussion on the engineering tips forum on rivets and
replacement (albeit on much heavier airframes) but it is certainly worth a
read.
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=15349
<http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=15349&page=6> &page=6 I would
also guess that you could get a specific answer there as well.
Regards,
Jack
Riviting my RV-9A Fuselage at the moment.
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 11:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: rivets working
Working rivets, sometimes called "Smokin Rivets" can be the result of flight
induced stress and strain from flight forces, airframe design technique and
riveting technique. Often, the removed rivets have "Fretted" in their
respective holes. Fretting is a form of corrosion.
The removal and re-riveting is one method of remediation. Installing the
replaced rivets "Wet" is another. There are lots of RV6 guys who should
pipe in as to whether this is a reasonably common incident.
I have completed a Pre-purchase Inspection and then subsequent Conditional
Inspection on a 9 year old, 900 hour 6A without such a finding on a base
white topcoat. Cracks which developed early in the flight life have been
followed without apparent growth. We measured each and documented them for
quantitative comparison next January. These are valued issues to discuss.
The original owner moved onto an RV-10 and is now tackling an RV-3 project.
John Cox
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hedrick
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 7:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: rivets working
Any thoughts on some rivets that are working in the horizontal stabilizer in
my RV 6. it is the inboard rivets and it is on both sides. I have
noticed this over a 3 or 4 yr period and it continues to involve more
rivets.
Is this a common thing in older rv's, mine is a vintage 1991. in fact it
was # 9 rv 6 kit sold. The air frame has almost 1000 hrs on it. how do I
stop it and how do I fix the damage ?
Thanks
Keith Hedrick
64DK
@ 3LF
Checked by AVG.
9/27/2008 1:11 PM
Checked by AVG.
9/27/2008 1:11 PM
Checked by AVG.
9/27/2008 1:11 PM
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Checked by AVG.
1:30 PM
Message 23
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Subject: | RE: rivets working |
Hi John,
I suspect that to really stop the smoking rivets I need to find the cause of
the flight strain and stop it first. I am not sure where to start. i cant
tell if I have corrosion in the rivets, I don't see any from the top.
I am still wondering if this is a common or rare occurrence in the 6.
Thanks for your help,
Keith
64DK
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 10:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: rivets working
Working rivets, sometimes called "Smokin Rivets" can be the result of flight
induced stress and strain from flight forces, airframe design technique and
riveting technique. Often, the removed rivets have "Fretted" in their
respective holes. Fretting is a form of corrosion.
The removal and re-riveting is one method of remediation. Installing the
replaced rivets "Wet" is another. There are lots of RV6 guys who should
pipe in as to whether this is a reasonably common incident.
I have completed a Pre-purchase Inspection and then subsequent Conditional
Inspection on a 9 year old, 900 hour 6A without such a finding on a base
white topcoat. Cracks which developed early in the flight life have been
followed without apparent growth. We measured each and documented them for
quantitative comparison next January. These are valued issues to discuss.
The original owner moved onto an RV-10 and is now tackling an RV-3 project.
John Cox
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hedrick
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 7:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: rivets working
Any thoughts on some rivets that are working in the horizontal stabilizer in
my RV 6. it is the inboard rivets and it is on both sides. I have
noticed this over a 3 or 4 yr period and it continues to involve more
rivets.
Is this a common thing in older rv's, mine is a vintage 1991. in fact it
was # 9 rv 6 kit sold. The air frame has almost 1000 hrs on it. how do I
stop it and how do I fix the damage ?
Thanks
Keith Hedrick
64DK
@ 3LF
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Message 24
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Subject: | RE: rivets working |
I don't know if I could get epoxy in the space or if this would be the best
way to repair it. ???
thanks for the reply.
Keith
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mr.gsun@gmail.com
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: rivets working
Since there are just a few rivets that are somewhat loose in the hole, how
about a little clear epoxy forced down into the hole and squeegied off the
painted surface before it dries? I remember flying a lot of hours in an
Grumman American Yankee that was held together with epoxy. Wouldn't that
work fine until there are a significant number of loose rivets in the same
area?
do not archive
On Mon, Sep 29, 2008 at 7:03 AM, Jack Hilditch <wmjack1@t3cs.net> wrote:
Good morning,
There's an excellent discussion on the engineering tips forum on rivets and
replacement (albeit on much heavier airframes) but it is certainly worth a
read.
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=15349
<http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=15349&page=6> &page=6 I would
also guess that you could get a specific answer there as well.
Regards,
Jack
Riviting my RV-9A Fuselage at the moment.
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 11:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: rivets working
Working rivets, sometimes called "Smokin Rivets" can be the result of flight
induced stress and strain from flight forces, airframe design technique and
riveting technique. Often, the removed rivets have "Fretted" in their
respective holes. Fretting is a form of corrosion.
The removal and re-riveting is one method of remediation. Installing the
replaced rivets "Wet" is another. There are lots of RV6 guys who should
pipe in as to whether this is a reasonably common incident.
I have completed a Pre-purchase Inspection and then subsequent Conditional
Inspection on a 9 year old, 900 hour 6A without such a finding on a base
white topcoat. Cracks which developed early in the flight life have been
followed without apparent growth. We measured each and documented them for
quantitative comparison next January. These are valued issues to discuss.
The original owner moved onto an RV-10 and is now tackling an RV-3 project.
John Cox
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hedrick
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 7:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: rivets working
Any thoughts on some rivets that are working in the horizontal stabilizer in
my RV 6. it is the inboard rivets and it is on both sides. I have
noticed this over a 3 or 4 yr period and it continues to involve more
rivets.
Is this a common thing in older rv's, mine is a vintage 1991. in fact it
was # 9 rv 6 kit sold. The air frame has almost 1000 hrs on it. how do I
stop it and how do I fix the damage ?
Thanks
Keith Hedrick
64DK
@ 3LF
Checked by AVG.
9/27/2008 1:11 PM
Checked by AVG.
9/27/2008 1:11 PM
Checked by AVG.
9/27/2008 1:11 PM
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Checked by AVG.
1:30 PM
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