Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:44 AM - Need a prop (Harrell Staton)
2. 05:02 AM - Re: Re: rivets working (linn Walters)
3. 09:14 AM - Re: RV-9A (e.ap)
4. 09:50 AM - Re: Re: RV-9A (Matt Dralle)
5. 10:08 AM - Tools (Jerry Springer)
6. 10:39 AM - Re: Re: RV-9A (Rquinn1@AOL.COM)
7. 03:02 PM - Re: Bakerseal Or EZTurn? (Paul Besing)
8. 09:02 PM - WTB: RV-8 rudder (William Gill)
Message 1
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Folks -
This is probably a little off topic, but I am in need of a Sensenich
M74DM-60 or 61 prop for my Tri-Pacer. In the course of the current
annual, my IA has determined that I have the wrong prop on my
airplane for the STC that placed the O-320 40 years ago. I have an
M76-57, so, according to the STC, my airplane is no longer airworthy
until I have the correct prop. I will consider any condition (as long
as it is airworthy), and, if you're within one day's driving distance
of Jacksonville, FL, I can come get it. In order to conserve
bandwidth on the mailing list, you can contact me off-list at
pj260@bellsouth.net or 904-223-9627. Thanks!
Sam Staton
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RE: rivets working |
John Cox wrote:
snip
>
> Not all double countersinks can be shaved.
Oh, so true! >
> In EAA projects, the quality and standard is set by the Builder, not the
> plans creator.
Again, oh so true!
But how many 'double countersinks' do you see on GA production
aircraft??? Some folks seem the set them as the standard. I've seen
production stuff that would make you cringe. I'm no rivet expert .....
but I don't think if you pounded 20% 'bad' rivets and left them there
that you'd have a problem .... unless you mashed them all in one area
.... not a statistical feat in my opinion.
Linn
>
>
> John Cox
>
> EAA Tech Advisor
>
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick Galati
> *Sent:* Friday, October 03, 2008 12:56 PM
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV-List: RE: rivets working
>
>
>
> The RV has been around for some time now and over the years the basic
> design has been tweaked, finessed and improved as data from the field
> eventually filtered back to the factory. With thousands of examples
> built over a couple of decades, sometimes dramatic improvements to the
> basic design have been made. Also, you have to take it as a given that
> some RV's are constructed by true craftsmen while most builders are less
> skilled but still set the bar with an eye towards above average quality.
> Arguably, most RV's are of average construction quality yet we know that
> at the lower end of the spectrum lesser quality built RV's continue to
> be assembled by less skilled builders or builders builders possessed of
> the famous "build on" mentality.
>
>
>
> It is one thing to describe smoking or working rivets occurring here or
> there, but it is quite another for such rivets to be dispassionately
> examined by someone who really knows what to look for. Many theories
> have been posted on this thread and rest assured my pet theory is no
> exception. By and large, I believe smoking rivets are for the most part
> caused by improper rivet use or builder error or a combination of both.
> A common rivet gage relied upon and interpreted correctly by the builder
> would do more to prevent smoking rivets than any other single action.
>
>
>
> Too often, I have observed the grip length call-out of many rivet
> patterns located on skins seem to be marginal at best and tend towards
> being a bit too short. I observed early on that often times shooting
> such rivets could cause the shop head to be almost swallowed by its
> dimpled hole already enlarged by the dimpling process. If a builder
> _under_ sets such rivets, the builder is just asking for the under
> swelled rivets to work loose over time and the same thing goes if the
> rivet is slightly overshot. What little is left of an _over_ shot rivet
> shop head has precious little dimpled material to grip onto. To help
> prevent both scenarios, I routinely install slightly longer half-size
> rivets even though the plans may well call out a shorter length for a
> particular stack-up of materials. My 2000 vintage RV-6A plans had even
> _shorter_ -3 length rivet lengths occasionally called out yet I could
> never accept that. I refused to install AD3-3 length rivets anywhere
> period.
>
>
>
> [URL=http://imageshack.us][IMG]http://img396.imageshack.us/img396/2489/fwf008editmt3.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
>
>
>
> Using a rivet gage supported my suspicions. Relying on it instead of my
> eyeballs, my experience has been it that is much more difficult to
> correctly set an almost too short AD3 rivet than it is to set one that
> is just slightly longer. I routinely install slightly longer rivets
> even though the plans may well call out shorter lengths for a particular
> stack-up of materials. Example: The plans do not account for primer
> thickness.
>
>
>
> One thing I learned on the shop floor at McDonnell-Douglas as I pounded
> away on F-4s, F15s, and F18s was that blue-print fastener length
> call-outs are often in error and it is always up to the installer to
> verify the correct grip length is used in any given situation. Later on,
> I discovered that same familiar truth applies to RV construction
> practices as well.
>
>
>
> Rick Galati
>
> RV-6A "Darla"
>
> RV-8 N308R
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>
> **
>
> **
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 3
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Matt, I sent the attached message yesterday..how do I know if the system
has it? Can not find it anywhere.. Ernie
----- Original Message -----
From: e.ap
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2008 3:48 PM
Subject: RV-9A
For Sale: (1) Empennage Kit, including Preview Plans and Electric
Trim- HS ready for final assembly. (2) Avery Tool 650pc. RV Builder's
Kit- many items never used. (3) 10 19oz. cans of MAR-HYDE Self Etching
Primer.
Message 4
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At 09:12 AM 10/4/2008 Saturday, you wrote:
>Matt, I sent the attached message yesterday..how do I know if the system has it?
Can not find it anywhere.. Ernie
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <mailto:e.ap@beyondbb.com>e.ap
>To: <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>rv-list@matronics.com
>Sent: Friday, October 03, 2008 3:48 PM
>Subject: RV-9A
>
>For Sale: (1) Empennage Kit, including Preview Plans and Electric Trim- HS ready
for final assembly. (2) Avery Tool 650pc. RV Builder's Kit- many items never
used. (3) 10 19oz. cans of MAR-HYDE Self Etching Primer.
>
You can check the Matronics Forums:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=49204
Looks like it made it to the List fine.
Matt
Message 5
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I am posting this for a friend that has built an RV-6 and a Harmon
Rocket. He is no longer on the RV-List so contact him by email.
Jerry
"I have a crap load of clecos and riveting stuff I'll let go for half
price if you know of anyone starting a kit. 725 of the 3/32 and 225 of
the 1/8 plus some others. Also have two rivet guns, a double cut, air
drill and air pop rivet tool."
Contact Jim Anglin @
jlanglin44@earthlink.net
Message 6
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Where is this located?
**************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination.
Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out!
(http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Bakerseal Or EZTurn? |
Bakerseal is very messy from what I recall. I had a tiny tin of ez turn and have
had it for 10 years now and its still not gone..great stuff and goes a long,
long way.
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD "Sunny"
Arizona
----- Original Message ----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 1, 2008 7:22:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bakerseal Or EZTurn?
What are the pros and cons of Bakerseal vs. EZTurn for installing all
of the AN Blue fittings? I've got some of both and am about to do
the fittings for the fuel filter and fuel pump. They definitely have
different consistences - Bakerseal is kind of caulky and thick, and
EZTurn is kind of smooth and sticky like tooth paste. Van's says,
"either one". What's the common feeling on these products?
I assume that you just gunk some nicely on the end of the fitting and
then screw it tightly into the other part and wipe up the excess?
What about the flared fittings? Do you put it on the inside of the
flare too, or just the threads for the nut?
Thanks for the help!
Matt
RV-8 #82880
Message 8
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| Subject: | WTB: RV-8 rudder |
I have the new style (RV-9) rudder on my RV-7 that has developed cracks
after 220 hours. As a result, I plan to replace the rudder with the
early style RV-7 rudder (same as the RV-8 I believe). Please advise if
you have an RV-8 rudder for sale.prefer un-built, but will consider
completed rudder of excellent workmanship.
Best regards,
Bill Gill
RV-7 N151WP
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