---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 10/05/08: 5 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:52 AM - Re: Oil leak (bluesidedown) 2. 08:56 AM - Re: Re: Oil leak (JFLEISC@aol.com) 3. 11:36 AM - Re: Re: rivets working (bert murillo) 4. 11:56 AM - Radio for sale (John L. Danielson) 5. 02:48 PM - Re: Radio for sale (John L. Danielson) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:52:19 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: Oil leak From: "bluesidedown" I agree everything has its down side. Just like running the breather tube through a oil separator then all the way back through the plane creating restriction. I don't agree that positive crankcase pressure won't help the overall performance if done right and in lieu of a restricted system. The help with the VW system may not be as much considering the volume of the crankcase as compared to the piston size or the tighter tolerances; I can't really say, I wasn't there. But when we used to run buggys down at Flat River we all had breathers run into the exhaust otherwise you would have oil all over and I won't go into all the other positives since that was 20 years ago and I haven't built a VW engine since. So my knowledge of specifics are limited. I will tell you that you could not run as high of compression and rpm as we were without one. On an auto a simple test of the PVC was to pinch the line and there was usually a 50 rpm drop. Now it is a little different but the concept is the same. Another thing to consider is that the oil will be less contaminated and water vapor is being positively expelled. There are a few kits to do so and the Moroso kit has a check valve for those worried about a backfire. http://www.streetperformance.com/part/moroso/positive-crankcase-ventilation/391844-25900.html Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7413#207413 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 08:56:52 AM PST US From: JFLEISC@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Oil leak In a message dated 10/5/2008 8:53:27 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, mbick@carolina.rr.com writes: I don't agree that positive crankcase pressure won't help the overall performance if done right and in lieu of a restricted system. Show me "unaltered" dynamometer numbers, then I'll believe. Otherwise; fantasy. Jim **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 11:36:56 AM PST US From: bert murillo Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: rivets working Just follow the techincal manuals, used in Aircraft Mfg. if I recall the lenght of- the portion of the rivet shown, after the pieces are held toge ther, should be 1-1/2 the diameter of the rivet... - Almost any book shows- how to figure this out etc... even Aircraft Spruce if I recall has at the end of the book, tables for all this, and more,.. - bert - rv6a --- On Fri, 10/3/08, Charles Kuss wrote: From: Charles Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: rivets working I'll second Rick's opinion that Vans often (almost always on the 8A) calls out rivets that are 1/2 size to short in length. Charlie Kuss --- On Fri, 10/3/08, Rick Galati wrote: > From: Rick Galati > Subject: RV-List: RE: rivets working > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Date: Friday, October 3, 2008, 3:55 PM >snipped > - > It is one thing to describe smoking or working rivets > occurring here or there, but it is quite another for such > rivets to be dispassionately examined by someone who really > knows what to look for. Many theories have been posted on > this thread and rest assured my pet theory is no exception. > By and large, I believe smoking rivets are for the most part > caused by improper rivet use or builder error or a > combination of both. A common rivet gage relied upon and > interpreted correctly by the builder would do more to > prevent-smoking rivets than any other single action. > - > Too often, I have observed the grip length call-out of many > rivet patterns located on skins- seem to be marginal at > best and tend towards being a bit too short. I observed > early on that often times shooting such rivets could cause > the shop head to be almost swallowed by its dimpled hole > already enlarged by the dimpling process. If a builder under > sets such rivets, the-builder is just asking for the under > swelled rivets to work loose over time and the same thing > goes if the rivet is slightly overshot. What little is left > of an over shot-rivet shop head has precious little dimpled > material to grip onto. To help prevent both scenarios, I > routinely install slightly longer half-size rivets even > though the plans may well call out a shorter length for a > particular stack-up of materials. My 2000 vintage RV-6A > plans-had even shorter -3 length rivet lengths occasionally > called out yet I could never accept that. -I refused to > install-AD3-3 length rivets > anywhere period. > - > [URL=http://imageshack.us][IMG]http://img396.imageshack.us/img396/2489/fw f008editmt3.jpg[/IMG][/URL] > - > Using a-rivet gage supported my suspicions. Relying on it > instead of my eyeballs, my experience has been it that is > much more difficult to correctly set an almost too short AD3 > rivet than it is to set one that is just slightly longer.- > I routinely install slightly longer rivets even though the > plans may well call out shorter lengths for a particular > stack-up of materials.-Example: The plans do not account > for primer thickness. > - > One thing I learned on the shop floor at McDonnell-Douglas > as I pounded away on F-4=A2s, F15=A2s, and F18=A2s was that > blue-print fastener length call-outs are often in error and > it is always up to the installer to verify the correct grip > length is used in any given situation. Later on, > I-discovered that same familiar truth applies to RV > construction practices as well. > - > Rick Galati > RV-6A "Darla" > RV-8 N308R =0A=0A=0A ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 11:56:12 AM PST US From: "John L. Danielson" Subject: RV-List: Radio for sale I have for sale a Microair Avionics Pty. Ltd Model #760 VHF AM Transceiver. I do not have the wiring harness for this unit. One can easily be made up >From parts that are available at Radio Shack. The manual and wiring diagram can be found at Microair's web site. http://www.microair.com.au/index.aspx?page=186 &productID=25 I am asking $550 for this radio. I purchased it used 2 years ago and never used the unit. It is used but in great condition. If you have any questions please e-mail Jdaniel343@bresnan.net. I will be putting this on E-bay within 3 days if no one responds. Shipping will be $15.00. Thanks ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 02:48:30 PM PST US From: "John L. Danielson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Radio for sale Radio has been sold. Thanks -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John L. Danielson Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2008 12:56 PM Subject: RV-List: Radio for sale I have for sale a Microair Avionics Pty. Ltd Model #760 VHF AM Transceiver. I do not have the wiring harness for this unit. One can easily be made up >From parts that are available at Radio Shack. The manual and wiring diagram can be found at Microair's web site. http://www.microair.com.au/index.aspx?page=186 &productID=25 I am asking $550 for this radio. I purchased it used 2 years ago and never used the unit. It is used but in great condition. If you have any questions please e-mail Jdaniel343@bresnan.net. I will be putting this on E-bay within 3 days if no one responds. Shipping will be $15.00. 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