Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:49 AM - Manifold Presser Error (Rudi)
2. 02:03 PM - Throttle/Mixture/Prop Firewall Location (Dwight Frye)
3. 03:42 PM - Re: Bakerseal Or EZTurn? (John Danielson)
4. 04:03 PM - Re: Brake Pad replacement (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
5. 04:55 PM - Fuel Pump Problem (Duane Bentley)
6. 05:19 PM - Re: Fuel Pump Problem (RV6 Flyer)
7. 06:55 PM - Re: Throttle/Mixture/Prop Firewall Location (Bret Smith)
8. 08:23 PM - Re: Fuel Pump Problem (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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Subject: | Manifold Presser Error |
Dear Listers.
Yesterday, during a flight my manifold presser gauge showed suddenly an off scale
reading.
After landing, I switched the Master off and on the gauge rested at zero
Several Master on and offs leeds sometimes to zero and sometimes to end of scale
reading.
It is a Vans gauge u transducer, it worked fine for 7 hours.
What would you say, is it the gauge or is it the transducer or a problem with ground?
Thank you
Rudi RV8, 81943
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8493#208493
Message 2
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Subject: | Throttle/Mixture/Prop Firewall Location |
After long last I'm past the worst of my canopy work and am on to doing FWF
work. Finally. I need to order cables (got convinced by someone to go with
Cablecraft instead of the Van's standard cables) and need to build hoses to
fit my configuration. So I'm looking for some info, if I can find it.
I am installing a Superior XP-360 with vertical induction and an Airflow
Performance FI system. Given that this is a non-standard setup (from Van's
point of view) the plans don't speak to this specific configuration. I'm
doing a little head-scratching of my own, and think I know where I want my
throttle/mixture/prop cables to come through the firewall, but thought I
would ask others with a similar setup where they punched their holes.
And ... if you do have a setup like mine, did you -like- where your cables
exited the firewall? Did you hate it? What would you do different given
what you know now? Any information/insights will be welcome.
-- Dwight
do not archive
Message 3
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Subject: | Bakerseal Or EZTurn? |
I used EZ Turn, not so much to form a seal but to make connecting aluminum
AN fittings easier. Makes their removal much easier.
Shouldn't the flare fitting seal the line? I like the idea of EZ Turn due to
the fact you can apply the correct torque without fear of galling the
aluminum fittings.
John L. Danielson
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RALPH HOOVER
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 8:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bakerseal Or EZTurn?
"What are the pros and cons of Bakerseal vs. EZTurn for installing all of
the AN Blue fittings?"
Matt,
I have used both EZ-Turn and Fuel Lube on AN fittings. The fuel lines appear
to be leak free, not true for the brake lines. I will now try Loctite 567 on
the brake fittings. Report to follow!!
Ralph & Laura Hoover
RV7A N527LR
Very very close!!
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Brake Pad replacement |
=C2-Will this tool work on Matco caliper=C2-shoes?
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Th
anks, Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 6:58:48 PM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: RV-List: Brake Pad replacement
If you do not mind spending a little extra money for the best rivet setting
tool, order these dies for your hand rivet squeezer.
http://www.averytools.com/p-173-die-set-for-setting-brake-rivets.aspx
I like these dies in my hand squeezer better than ANY other brake rivet too
l that I have seen.=C2- This is my opinion and someone else may have some
thing they like better.=C2- These dies are what work best for me.=C2- S
omeone else may have something better that works for them.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,156+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
From: n616tb@btsapps.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Brake Pad replacement
Hi John,
Thanks for the info and link.=C2- I was actually just turning my tires ar
ound so they would wear on the other side, so packing bearings and such.=C2
- The brakes are easy, but didn=99t plan that so now need to wait t
o get parts and tools.
Thanks again.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB=C2-over 100 hours now
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Dudley
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 3:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Pad replacement
Hi Tim,
I decided to replace my pads around the 120 hour point. Could have gotten a
few more miles but at annual time it seemed most convenient. Getting every
thing apart for bearing maintenance is the most time consuming. Replacing t
he pads is easy and quick. The kits from Van's contain the rivets. The tool
is inexpensive from Spruce. See: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/top
ages/brakeliningrivset.php
Rich Dudley
6A flying and for sale
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Bryan
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 4:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brake Pad replacement
My RV-6 is in need of new brake pads after 120 hours.=C2- This seems a bi
t pre-mature but it needs them none the less.=C2- I just looked on Vans s
ite and they show brake lining kit with rivets.=C2- Does this require a s
pecial rivet device?=C2- At 30 bucks I can=99t surmise it would be
very cheap to buy the pads with the backing already on.=C2- Questions:
Is 120 hours sooner than normal for needing brake pads?
What do I use to rivet on the linings?
Is there a reasonable availability somewhere for complete brake pads?
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB=C2-over 100 hours now =C2- =C2- href="http://www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List href="ht
tp://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.m
atronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c =C2- =C2- http://
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.
matronics.com/contribution =C2- http://www.matronics.com/Namatronics.com/
contribution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/cont====
============
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Message 5
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Subject: | Fuel Pump Problem |
My RV6 has 350 hours on it, with Airflow Performance Fuel Injection.
Lately I noticed an oil leak in the bottom of the cowl and after a lot a
searching I found the mechanical fuel pump with oil dripping off the
bottom. Several of the small screws on the bottom were loose, so I
assumed an onset of a failure to the diaphragm and went to the local
Aviall distributor and bought a rebuilt LW15473. It says it's a
"Tempest". I installed it and started the engine. It keeps dying at
idle.
The electrical fuel pump will keep it running showing fuel pressure of
28-30 psi, but when I switch it off, the pressure bleeds down to around
16 psi and then the engine quits. Same thing 3-4 times, even at higher
throttle settings.
I pulled the pump off to verify that I had installed it correctly. The
top of the pump arm has a shinny mark where the plunger from the
accessory case is hitting it - dead center. I guess I go back to
Aviall. Any other suggestions?
Duane Bentley
RV6 - N515DB
West Chester, OH
Message 6
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Subject: | Fuel Pump Problem |
Several years ago=2C a friend of mine with a FI engine had the same problem
with a Lycoming pump. The part number on the pump was correct but the pum
p that came out of the box was a different part number. It was for the 5 PS
I carb.
It is possible that they put the WRONG pump in the correct box.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C156+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
From: dbentley@fuse.net
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Pump Problem
My RV6 has 350 hours on it=2C with Airflow Performance Fuel Injection.
Lately I noticed an oil leak in the bottom of the cowl and after a lot a se
arching
I found the mechanical fuel pump with oil dripping off the bottom. Several
of the small screws on the bottom were loose=2C so I assumed an onset of a
failure to the diaphragm and went to the local Aviall distributor and bough
t a
rebuilt LW15473. It says it=92s a =93Tempest=94. I
installed it and started the engine. It keeps dying at idle.
The electrical fuel pump will keep it running showing fuel
pressure of 28-30 psi=2C but when I switch it off=2C the pressure bleeds do
wn to
around 16 psi and then the engine quits. Same thing 3-4 times=2C even at
higher throttle settings.
I pulled the pump off to verify that I had installed it
correctly. The top of the pump arm has a shinny mark where the plunger
from the accessory case is hitting it ' dead center. I guess I go
back to Aviall. Any other suggestions?
Duane Bentley
RV6 ' N515DB
West Chester=2C OH
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Message 7
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Subject: | Throttle/Mixture/Prop Firewall Location |
Dwight,
I'm in the same point in my build. I have the same setup except with an ECI
engine. I found that the firewall layout location for penetrations is fine
for the throttle but the mixture location is way too high. I am planning to
use the called-out mixture location to run my Purge valve cable and drop
down about 5-6" and run my Mixture.
I sure hope that others who have gone before will input.
Have you found a supplier for the CableCraft cables?
Bret Smith
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, Ga
www.FlightInnovations.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dwight Frye
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 5:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Throttle/Mixture/Prop Firewall Location
After long last I'm past the worst of my canopy work and am on to doing FWF
work. Finally. I need to order cables (got convinced by someone to go with
Cablecraft instead of the Van's standard cables) and need to build hoses to
fit my configuration. So I'm looking for some info, if I can find it.
I am installing a Superior XP-360 with vertical induction and an Airflow
Performance FI system. Given that this is a non-standard setup (from Van's
point of view) the plans don't speak to this specific configuration. I'm
doing a little head-scratching of my own, and think I know where I want my
throttle/mixture/prop cables to come through the firewall, but thought I
would ask others with a similar setup where they punched their holes.
And ... if you do have a setup like mine, did you -like- where your cables
exited the firewall? Did you hate it? What would you do different given what
you know now? Any information/insights will be welcome.
-- Dwight
do not archive
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Problem |
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? Odds are that you got the low
pressure pump for carburetors (5-7psi) vs the high pressure for FI that
puts out around 24 psi.
Duane Bentley wrote:
>
> My RV6 has 350 hours on it, with Airflow Performance Fuel Injection.
> Lately I noticed an oil leak in the bottom of the cowl and after a lot
> a searching I found the mechanical fuel pump with oil dripping off the
> bottom. Several of the small screws on the bottom were loose, so I
> assumed an onset of a failure to the diaphragm and went to the local
> Aviall distributor and bought a rebuilt LW15473. It says its a
> Tempest. I installed it and started the engine. It keeps dying at idle.
>
> The electrical fuel pump will keep it running showing fuel pressure of
> 28-30 psi, but when I switch it off, the pressure bleeds down to
> around 16 psi and then the engine quits. Same thing 3-4 times, even at
> higher throttle settings.
>
> I pulled the pump off to verify that I had installed it correctly. The
> top of the pump arm has a shinny mark where the plunger from the
> accessory case is hitting it dead center. I guess I go back to
> Aviall. Any other suggestions?
>
> Duane Bentley
>
> RV6 N515DB
>
> West Chester, OH
>
> *
>
>
> *
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