Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:12 AM - Re: Starter Contactor (Randy Hooper)
2. 07:52 AM - Re: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? (Paul Besing)
3. 08:04 AM - Changing tires on RV6A (mark phipps)
4. 08:15 AM - Re: Starter Contactor (partner14)
5. 08:38 AM - Re: Changing tires on RV6A (Denis Walsh)
6. 08:41 AM - Re: Starter Contactor (Denis Walsh)
7. 08:53 AM - Re: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? (Doug Medema)
8. 08:58 AM - Re: Changing tires on RV6A (linn Walters)
9. 09:08 AM - Re: Changing tires on RV6A (linn Walters)
10. 09:50 AM - Re: Re: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? (Steven Reynard)
11. 10:16 AM - Re: Changing tires on RV6A (Dale Ensing)
12. 10:31 AM - Re: Changing tires on RV6A (mr.gsun@gmail.com)
13. 11:49 AM - Re: Re: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? (Matt Dralle)
14. 12:36 PM - Interior Painting - Powdercoat (Larry James)
15. 03:35 PM - Re: TruTrak "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim"... (Matt Dralle)
16. 04:26 PM - Re: Re: TruTrak "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim"... (Dave Saylor)
17. 06:59 PM - Re: RV8-List: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? (Paul Winkels)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Starter Contactor |
Don, the "S" is to engage the contactor and goes to the switch. The "I"
would be for a "starter engaged light".
Randy Hooper
On Tue, Oct 21, 2008 at 10:14 PM, partner14 <building_partner@yahoo.com>wrote:
>
> I have the B&C S701-2 Crossfeed Contactor (starter) and just need to know
> what wires go to each contact. Really the ones in question are the two
> small contacts. Neither has the "S" or "I" labels that I've read everyone
> referencing. Noone at B & C could tell me, so hopefully someone has this
> wired up already. I've attached the photo that is on the B & C website with
> the can lid on the top, and one diode going from the left small contact,
> over and above to the right large lug. This particular contactor has the 2
> large lugs on each side and 2 smaller lugs in the middle. I also tried Bob
> Nuckolls, but email address was no longer valid. Thanks,
> Don McDonald
> #40636
>
> --------
> Don A. McDonald
> 40636
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9788#209788
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/s701_2_123.jpg
>
>
--
Randy Hooper
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? |
As far as painting the interior I would wait as long as possible. I found that
I was in and out of the aircraft, tools, screws, etc can really scratch up an
interior quick. You can mask the panel and wiring, etc...just be sure you have
all of your interior mods, drilling, etc done. I've been doing some mods to
my RV-4 and will repaint the interior soon, but I'm waiting as long as possible
until I get everything done.
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Arizona
----- Original Message ----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 2:16:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When?
Thanks for all the great feedback on powercoating the interior! I think I'm going
to skip powercoating the interior based on everyone's feedback.
I had a conversation with my local body shop guy who I've know for nearly 20 years.
He was very willing to take on the project and basically said that we could
work out an arrangement where I could do most of the supervised prep work
in his shop and then he would simply supply the paint and the skill in applying
it. Sounds like a good deal to me. He has a really nice, large sealed paint
booth that the -8 will fit right into. He has completely repainted two cars
for me in the past and his skill is superb. He was saying that he recently painted
a guys Rotoway helecopter.
Still, the "when" is a question mark. I want to delay as long as possible, but
I don't want to wait too long and have to completely disassemble everything or
worse yet *wish* that I could disassemble things for paint.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
At 05:11 PM 10/20/2008 Monday, you wrote:
>
>
>Fellow RV-er's,
>
>There is a powercoating shop here in my town that has an oven large enough to
put my whole RV-8 fuselage into it. I've been considering just having the whole
inside powercoated for the durability, and sweet look. Lots of guys powercoat
the instrument panel and obviously most of the steel parts come from Van's
powercoated. But what are the upsides and downsides of powercoating all of the
interior parts. I've used Variprime on most of the backsides of the interior
parts, but I've left the occupant facing parts bare in prep for the powercoating.
Will the powercoat chip off easily on the bend-y pieces?
>
>And when's the right time to take it down to the powercoaters? I would like to
have most things riveted that need riveting before the coating like the forward
deck over the instrument panel and the aft turtledeck, but these get riveted
on pretty late in the building process. I would like to have all of the wiring
and controls installed or at least fabbed and trial fitted before coating
to avoid scratches. But again, once things are wired, is coating going to make
a mess? Its not like the harnesses can really be removed once their installed...
>
>The other concern is the heat necessary to bake on the powercoating. I think
its upwards of 450 degrees F. What impact will that temperature have on the various
parts that go into the fuselage such as the aeronuts, plastic bushings,
clamps, etc?
>
>I'm in quite a dilemma over this. I really want to wait as long as possible to
avoid scratches and chips in the powercoating, but I don't want to wait too
long and not be able to disassemble things to the point of making a good looking
job. For example, the rear floor boards should probably be riveted down, but
any screwed in panels should be removed. But riveting the floorboards is something
I'd probably prefer to do the day before test flying...
>
>Thanks for any insight...
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 # 82880
>Trutrak Auto Pilot Servo and Aileron Electric Trim Install
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 3
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Subject: | Changing tires on RV6A |
At 200 hours its time for new tires and brakes on my 6A. Whats the opinion
when changing tires should I replace the tubes as well. And if so what tube
s are people having luck with that hold air pressure and need filling less
often.
-
Mark Phipps, RV6A, "Gypsy Spirit" 200 hours
-
=0A=0A=0A
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Starter Contactor |
Yep, you're absolutely right.... and if the contactor had either the "S: or the
"I" markings, I'd be in great shape. Thanks
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9840#209840
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Changing tires on RV6A |
Dear Mark,
Here are some observations, along with several recommendations based
on my experience. I am not a mechanic, and not an expert, and not
very experienced with general aviation.
Tire manufacturers recommend changing tubes when changing tires.
Lots of people, including me, have re used tubes. If they look
unfrayed and serviceable it may be ok.... or not. Here are three
arguments for new tubes:
1. Tubes can get frayed and be subject to going flat. 6A will run a
good chance of boogering up wheel pants or puting you in the ditch if
flat on landing.
2. Tubes will usually stretch with age. reinstalling a stretched tube
increases chance of pinching which may result in unexpected flat at
later date. See 1. above
3. New generation, slow leak tubes are now available from van's.
Cost more but go much longer before needing to be refilled. They cost
about as much as cheap tires.
I now buy and install new tubes with tire changes. Inspect and reuse
after rotations. I am on my 7th set of main tires. Only one flat on
main. It was a pinched tube after change. Always try to give it a 24
hour leak check before flying when you can.
I also would recommend installing a new tube in the nose gear at
annual. Those get frayed and twisted more and I have experienced
several flats. None were fun. Also carry a spare tube on x country.
One more bit of unsolicited free advice. Don't install patched tubes
on the nose. Too much wiggling around, Can come loose.
Denis
On Oct 22, 2008, at 9:02 , mark phipps wrote:
> At 200 hours its time for new tires and brakes on my 6A. Whats the
> opinion when changing tires should I replace the tubes as well. And
> if so what tubes are people having luck with that hold air pressure
> and need filling less often.
>
> Mark Phipps, RV6A, "Gypsy Spirit" 200 hours
>
>
> -
>
>
> _-
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
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> 3D
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> ======================
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> ======================
> _-
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> ======================
> _-
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> ======================
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Starter Contactor |
Hook up the fat wire to the battery, but leave off the one to the
starter.
Apply 12v to the little terminals one at a time.
Use the one that makes it go click for your starter switch wire..
DLW
On Oct 21, 2008, at 9:14 , partner14 wrote:
> <building_partner@yahoo.com>
>
> I have the B&C S701-2 Crossfeed Contactor (starter) and just need to
> know what wires go to each contact. Really the ones in question are
> the two small contacts. Neither has the "S" or "I" labels that I've
> read everyone referencing. Noone at B & C could tell me, so
> hopefully someone has this wired up already. I've attached the
> photo that is on the B & C website with the can lid on the top, and
> one diode going from the left small contact, over and above to the
> right large lug. This particular contactor has the 2 large lugs on
> each side and 2 smaller lugs in the middle. I also tried Bob
> Nuckolls, but email address was no longer valid. Thanks,
> Don McDonald
> #40636
>
> --------
> Don A. McDonald
> 40636
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9788#209788
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/s701_2_123.jpg
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? |
One thing no one has mentioned is the question of what is
your interior going to be?
I painted the whole interior on my -6A, and later decided to
go with an interior
package from Flightline Interiors. This includes fabric to
cover most of the interior
walls. It really makes for a much nicer look than just
paint, and at very little
extra weight.
If I had planned on this from the start, I would have
minimized the painting in
my interior to just a primer. The fabric will cover up any
scratches that happen
during building and provides a more durable surface in the
finished plane.
Something to think about.
Doug
RV-6A N276DM
http://home.comcast.net/~doug.medema/
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Changing tires on RV6A |
mark phipps wrote:
> At 200 hours its time for new tires and brakes on my 6A. Whats the
> opinion when changing tires should I replace the tubes as well. And if
> so what tubes are people having luck with that hold air pressure and
> need filling less often.
>
> Mark Phipps, RV6A, "Gypsy Spirit" 200 hours
>
My opinion is to use the tube until it shows signs of dry rot .....
small cracks in the surface. They usually show up long before the tube
actually leaks. Other opinions abound, and YMMV.
Linn
>
>
> -
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 9
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|
Subject: | Re: Changing tires on RV6A |
Denis Walsh wrote:
> Dear Mark,
>
>
> Here are some observations, along with several recommendations based
> on my experience. I am not a mechanic, and not an expert, and not
> very experienced with general aviation.
>
> Tire manufacturers recommend changing tubes when changing tires.
> Lots of people, including me, have re used tubes. If they look
> unfrayed and serviceable it may be ok.... or not. Here are three
> arguments for new tubes:
>
> 1. Tubes can get frayed and be subject to going flat. 6A will run a
> good chance of boogering up wheel pants or puting you in the ditch if
> flat on landing.
>
> 2. Tubes will usually stretch with age. reinstalling a stretched tube
> increases chance of pinching which may result in unexpected flat at
> later date. See 1. above
You can mitigate pinching if you use copious amounts of talc when you
reassemble .... I put talc on both tube and inside of the tire. Once
assembled inflate and deflate a couple of times .... I leave the core
out and use an air gun to do this.
> 3. New generation, slow leak tubes are now available from van's.
> Cost more but go much longer before needing to be refilled. They
> cost about as much as cheap tires.
And for me, the cost is a big deterrent to buying a new tube with a new
tire.
> I now buy and install new tubes with tire changes. Inspect and reuse
> after rotations. I am on my 7th set of main tires. Only one flat on
> main. It was a pinched tube after change.
Most likely not the tubes fault.
> Always try to give it a 24 hour leak check before flying when you can.
Really good advice!!!
> I also would recommend installing a new tube in the nose gear at
> annual. Those get frayed and twisted more and I have experienced
> several flats. None were fun. Also carry a spare tube on x country.
> One more bit of unsolicited free advice. Don't install patched tubes
> on the nose. Too much wiggling around, Can come loose.
C'mon guys ... patching a tube isn't an option (IMHO) ..... for a lot of
reasons ..... and the ones Denis (with one N) mentioned are big ones.
Tough to balance a tire with a patch in it.
Now things may be different with the Vans gear .... I don't have any
experience with Vans stuff ..... yet.
Linn
>
> Denis
> On Oct 22, 2008, at 9:02 , mark phipps wrote:
>
>> At 200 hours its time for new tires and brakes on my 6A. Whats the
>> opinion when changing tires should I replace the tubes as well. And
>> if so what tubes are people having luck with that hold air pressure
>> and need filling less often.
>>
>> Mark Phipps, RV6A, "Gypsy Spirit" 200 hours
>>
>>
>>
>> -
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>> 3D============================================
>> href="3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> 3D============================================
>> href="3D"http://forums.matronics.com"">http://forums.matronics.com
>> 3D============================================
>> href="3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> 3D============================================
>>
>> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 10
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|
Subject: | Re: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? |
Hi Doug,
Could you put a couple of interior shots on your web site to show how it
came out?
Not that I have to worry about it for a long time. . . . :(
Steve
RV-7A, Empennage
On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 8:49 AM, Doug Medema <doug.medema@comcast.net>wrote:
> One thing no one has mentioned is the question of what is your interior
> going to be?
>
> I painted the whole interior on my -6A, and later decided to go with an
> interior
> package from Flightline Interiors. This includes fabric to cover most of
> the interior
> walls. It really makes for a much nicer look than just paint, and at very
> little
> extra weight.
>
> If I had planned on this from the start, I would have minimized the
> painting in
> my interior to just a primer. The fabric will cover up any scratches that
> happen
> during building and provides a more durable surface in the finished plane.
>
> Something to think about.
>
> Doug
> RV-6A N276DM
> http://home.comcast.net/~doug.medema/<http://home.comcast.net/%7Edoug.medema/>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Changing tires on RV6A |
Mark,
Highly recommend the Michelin Airstop tubes. They hold the pressure much be
tter and well worth the cost.
http://www.airmichelin.com/pdfs/GAAIRSTO.pdf
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
220 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: mark phipps
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 11:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Changing tires on RV6A
At 200 hours its time for new tires and brakes on my 6A. Whats the
opinion when changing tires should I replace the tubes as well. And if so w
hat tubes are people having luck with that hold air pressure and need filli
ng less often.
Mark Phipps, RV6A, "Gypsy Spirit" 200 hours
-
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
Message 12
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|
Subject: | Re: Changing tires on RV6A |
I've been happy with the Michelin tires and their airstop tubes. Run @
32psi on my -7 and have changed tubes each time tire changed, rotate tires
once each year and got two years out last set of tires. They still had a
little life left.
do not archive
On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 10:15 AM, Dale Ensing <densing@carolina.rr.com>wrote:
> Mark,
>
> Highly recommend the Michelin Airstop tubes. They hold the pressure much
> better and well worth the cost.
> http://www.airmichelin.com/pdfs/GAAIRSTO.pdf
>
> Dale Ensing
> RV-6A
> 220 hours
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com>
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 22, 2008 11:02 AM
> *Subject:* RV-List: Changing tires on RV6A
>
> At 200 hours its time for new tires and brakes on my 6A. Whats the
> opinion when changing tires should I replace the tubes as well. And if so
> what tubes are people having luck with that hold air pressure and need
> filling less often.
>
> Mark Phipps, RV6A, "Gypsy Spirit" 200 hours
>
>
> -
>
> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
> 3D=======================================
> 3D====
> >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
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Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? |
Fabric or leather interior is certainly a nicer option than painting. But it seems
like it would be *a lot* heavier than paint. Does anyone make an interior
kit for the RV-8? I've seen them for the RV-6/7. I'm getting my seats from
Classic Aero Designs in leather (which are beautiful, btw), but they don't seem
to offer a interior package per say.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
At 08:49 AM 10/22/2008 Wednesday, you wrote:
>One thing no one has mentioned is the question of what is your interior going
to be?
>
>I painted the whole interior on my -6A, and later decided to go with an interior
>package from Flightline Interiors. This includes fabric to cover most of the
interior
>walls. It really makes for a much nicer look than just paint, and at very little
>extra weight.
>
>If I had planned on this from the start, I would have minimized the painting in
>my interior to just a primer. The fabric will cover up any scratches that happen
>during building and provides a more durable surface in the finished plane.
>
>Something to think about.
>
>Doug
>RV-6A N276DM
><http://home.comcast.net/~doug.medema/>http://home.comcast.net/~doug.medema/
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Interior Painting - Powdercoat |
I have two very different data points regarding powdercoating;
1) A local builder powdercoated the interior of his RV-8A. He did the
powdercoating very early in his build and it came out pretty nice. At final
W/B it ended up on the light side so evidently weight wasn't a big factor.
Given this single experience powdercoating the interior may be a viable
option.
2) A long time ago I powdercoated structural components (a-arms) in race
cars. One cracked and was not found until after the ensuing crash.
Consequently I never powdercoat anything any longer (except non-structural
cosmetic things having nothing to do with cars, airplanes, and the like).
And this is not meant as a dig in any way to the poster here that owns/runs
a powdercoat shop ... good on ya from one small business owner to another !!
Larry E. James
Bellevue, WA
Super Decathlon
Rocket (still under construction)
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: TruTrak "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim"... |
At 05:37 AM 10/22/2008 Wednesday, you wrote:
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Don McNamara" <N8RV@gte.net>
>
>Also, Matt, what's that gizmo attached to your pitch servo? I have a TT system
as well, but don't have that rectangular thing with a wire for my control arm
...
>
>-- Don
> N8RV
The special linkage between the stepper motor and the pitch axis bellcrank is a
strain gauge that provides feedback to another electric box from TruTrak that
controls the elevator trim tab. When the strain gauge detects pressure on the
elevator because of an out-of-trim condition, the device will automatically
feed in trim to compensate and reduces the workload on the pitch axis servo.
This function is wired in parallel with the normal electric trim button on the
stick that the pilot uses so the trim input from the system can always be overridden.
They call it their "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim". I believe that
it only works in conjunction with the autopilot engaged, however. It would be
cool if would also auto-trim for different power settings when the autopilot
was disengaged.
I've included a picture of the linkage below and more information from TruTrak's
web site below as well. Seems like a really cool device.
Here's a link to the Manual:
http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/AutomaticPitchTrim.pdf
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
<file://C:\Incoming\2008.10.20%20-%20RV-8%20-%20TruTrak%20Autopilot%20Pitch%20Servo%20With%20Auto%20Elevator%20Trim%20Sensor%20Linkage%20(1).jpg>
[]
Emacs!
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: TruTrak "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim"... |
We installed TT automatic trim after flying for about 100 hours. Man, what
a difference. I was a little put off at the cost but now I couldn't do
without it. It made it a different airplane. It's definatley worthwhile.
BTW, some servos have the strain gauge built in.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 3:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: TruTrak "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim"...
At 05:37 AM 10/22/2008 Wednesday, you wrote:
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Don McNamara" <N8RV@gte.net>
Also, Matt, what's that gizmo attached to your pitch servo? I have a TT
system as well, but don't have that rectangular thing with a wire for my
control arm ...
-- Don
N8RV
The special linkage between the stepper motor and the pitch axis bellcrank
is a strain gauge that provides feedback to another electric box from
TruTrak that controls the elevator trim tab. When the strain gauge detects
pressure on the elevator because of an out-of-trim condition, the device
will automatically feed in trim to compensate and reduces the workload on
the pitch axis servo. This function is wired in parallel with the normal
electric trim button on the stick that the pilot uses so the trim input from
the system can always be overridden. They call it their "Failsafe Automatic
Pitch Trim". I believe that it only works in conjunction with the autopilot
engaged, however. It would be cool if would also auto-trim for different
power settings when the autopilot was disengaged.
I've included a picture of the linkage below and more information from
TruTrak's web site below as well. Seems like a really cool device.
Here's a link to the Manual:
http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/AutomaticPitchTrim.pdf
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
<file://C:\Incoming\2008.10.20%20-%20RV-8%20-%20TruTrak%20Autopilot%20Pitch%
20Servo%20With%20Auto%20Elevator%20Trim%20Sensor%20Linkage%20(1).jpg> []
Emacs!
Message 17
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Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? |
Matt, I have had several steel and aluminum parts powder coated on my RV-7,
and I asked my powder coater about the limitations of powder coating. He
said he would be very hesitant to powder coat anything thinner than about
.063" aluminum because the heat can cause deformation, especially in larger
parts. I am no expert, but I don't think it would be advisable to place your
assembled fuselage into a 400 degree oven!!! I certainly wouldn't do it.
Also, powder coating can add considerably more weight than priming/painting.
By the way, I had my assembled brake pedals powder coated with excellent
results. My instrument panel will also get powder coated (before the
instruments are installed, of course ;). Other than the slider canopy latch
hook, that's about the extent of aluminum parts I'll powder coat. Of the
steel parts powder coated, I've done the tailwheel spring and fork assembly,
slider canopy frame and roll bar, and canopy latch handle, but that's about
it.
Hope this helps,
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 19:12
Subject: RV8-List: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When?
--> RV8-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Fellow RV-er's,
There is a powercoating shop here in my town that has an oven large enough
to put my whole RV-8 fuselage into it. I've been considering just having
the whole inside powercoated for the durability, and sweet look. Lots of
guys powercoat the instrument panel and obviously most of the steel parts
come from Van's powercoated. But what are the upsides and downsides of
powercoating all of the interior parts. I've used Variprime on most of the
backsides of the interior parts, but I've left the occupant facing parts
bare in prep for the powercoating. Will the powercoat chip off easily on
the bend-y pieces?
And when's the right time to take it down to the powercoaters? I would like
to have most things riveted that need riveting before the coating like the
forward deck over the instrument panel and the aft turtledeck, but these get
riveted on pretty late in the building process. I would like to have all of
the wiring and controls installed or at least fabbed and trial fitted before
coating to avoid scratches. But again, once things are wired, is coating
going to make a mess? Its not like the harnesses can really be removed once
their installed...
The other concern is the heat necessary to bake on the powercoating. I
think its upwards of 450 degrees F. What impact will that temperature have
on the various parts that go into the fuselage such as the aeronuts, plastic
bushings, clamps, etc?
I'm in quite a dilemma over this. I really want to wait as long as possible
to avoid scratches and chips in the powercoating, but I don't want to wait
too long and not be able to disassemble things to the point of making a good
looking job. For example, the rear floor boards should probably be riveted
down, but any screwed in panels should be removed. But riveting the
floorboards is something I'd probably prefer to do the day before test
flying...
Thanks for any insight...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 # 82880
Trutrak Auto Pilot Servo and Aileron Electric Trim Install
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