---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 10/22/08: 17 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 07:12 AM - Re: Starter Contactor (Randy Hooper) 2. 07:52 AM - Re: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? (Paul Besing) 3. 08:04 AM - Changing tires on RV6A (mark phipps) 4. 08:15 AM - Re: Starter Contactor (partner14) 5. 08:38 AM - Re: Changing tires on RV6A (Denis Walsh) 6. 08:41 AM - Re: Starter Contactor (Denis Walsh) 7. 08:53 AM - Re: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? (Doug Medema) 8. 08:58 AM - Re: Changing tires on RV6A (linn Walters) 9. 09:08 AM - Re: Changing tires on RV6A (linn Walters) 10. 09:50 AM - Re: Re: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? (Steven Reynard) 11. 10:16 AM - Re: Changing tires on RV6A (Dale Ensing) 12. 10:31 AM - Re: Changing tires on RV6A (mr.gsun@gmail.com) 13. 11:49 AM - Re: Re: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? (Matt Dralle) 14. 12:36 PM - Interior Painting - Powdercoat (Larry James) 15. 03:35 PM - Re: TruTrak "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim"... (Matt Dralle) 16. 04:26 PM - Re: Re: TruTrak "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim"... (Dave Saylor) 17. 06:59 PM - Re: RV8-List: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? (Paul Winkels) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 07:12:36 AM PST US From: "Randy Hooper" Subject: Re: RV-List: Starter Contactor Don, the "S" is to engage the contactor and goes to the switch. The "I" would be for a "starter engaged light". Randy Hooper On Tue, Oct 21, 2008 at 10:14 PM, partner14 wrote: > > I have the B&C S701-2 Crossfeed Contactor (starter) and just need to know > what wires go to each contact. Really the ones in question are the two > small contacts. Neither has the "S" or "I" labels that I've read everyone > referencing. Noone at B & C could tell me, so hopefully someone has this > wired up already. I've attached the photo that is on the B & C website with > the can lid on the top, and one diode going from the left small contact, > over and above to the right large lug. This particular contactor has the 2 > large lugs on each side and 2 smaller lugs in the middle. I also tried Bob > Nuckolls, but email address was no longer valid. Thanks, > Don McDonald > #40636 > > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9788#209788 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/s701_2_123.jpg > > -- Randy Hooper ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:52:26 AM PST US From: Paul Besing Subject: Re: RV-List: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? As far as painting the interior I would wait as long as possible. I found that I was in and out of the aircraft, tools, screws, etc can really scratch up an interior quick. You can mask the panel and wiring, etc...just be sure you have all of your interior mods, drilling, etc done. I've been doing some mods to my RV-4 and will repaint the interior soon, but I'm waiting as long as possible until I get everything done. Paul Besing RV-4 N73DD Arizona ----- Original Message ---- From: Matt Dralle Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 2:16:14 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? Thanks for all the great feedback on powercoating the interior! I think I'm going to skip powercoating the interior based on everyone's feedback. I had a conversation with my local body shop guy who I've know for nearly 20 years. He was very willing to take on the project and basically said that we could work out an arrangement where I could do most of the supervised prep work in his shop and then he would simply supply the paint and the skill in applying it. Sounds like a good deal to me. He has a really nice, large sealed paint booth that the -8 will fit right into. He has completely repainted two cars for me in the past and his skill is superb. He was saying that he recently painted a guys Rotoway helecopter. Still, the "when" is a question mark. I want to delay as long as possible, but I don't want to wait too long and have to completely disassemble everything or worse yet *wish* that I could disassemble things for paint. Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 At 05:11 PM 10/20/2008 Monday, you wrote: > > >Fellow RV-er's, > >There is a powercoating shop here in my town that has an oven large enough to put my whole RV-8 fuselage into it. I've been considering just having the whole inside powercoated for the durability, and sweet look. Lots of guys powercoat the instrument panel and obviously most of the steel parts come from Van's powercoated. But what are the upsides and downsides of powercoating all of the interior parts. I've used Variprime on most of the backsides of the interior parts, but I've left the occupant facing parts bare in prep for the powercoating. Will the powercoat chip off easily on the bend-y pieces? > >And when's the right time to take it down to the powercoaters? I would like to have most things riveted that need riveting before the coating like the forward deck over the instrument panel and the aft turtledeck, but these get riveted on pretty late in the building process. I would like to have all of the wiring and controls installed or at least fabbed and trial fitted before coating to avoid scratches. But again, once things are wired, is coating going to make a mess? Its not like the harnesses can really be removed once their installed... > >The other concern is the heat necessary to bake on the powercoating. I think its upwards of 450 degrees F. What impact will that temperature have on the various parts that go into the fuselage such as the aeronuts, plastic bushings, clamps, etc? > >I'm in quite a dilemma over this. I really want to wait as long as possible to avoid scratches and chips in the powercoating, but I don't want to wait too long and not be able to disassemble things to the point of making a good looking job. For example, the rear floor boards should probably be riveted down, but any screwed in panels should be removed. But riveting the floorboards is something I'd probably prefer to do the day before test flying... > >Thanks for any insight... > >Matt Dralle >RV-8 # 82880 >Trutrak Auto Pilot Servo and Aileron Electric Trim Install Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 08:04:45 AM PST US From: mark phipps Subject: RV-List: Changing tires on RV6A At 200 hours its time for new tires and brakes on my 6A. Whats the opinion when changing tires should I replace the tubes as well. And if so what tube s are people having luck with that hold air pressure and need filling less often. - Mark Phipps, RV6A, "Gypsy Spirit" 200 hours - =0A=0A=0A ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:15:36 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: Starter Contactor From: "partner14" Yep, you're absolutely right.... and if the contactor had either the "S: or the "I" markings, I'd be in great shape. Thanks -------- Don A. McDonald 40636 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9840#209840 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:38:57 AM PST US From: Denis Walsh Subject: Re: RV-List: Changing tires on RV6A Dear Mark, Here are some observations, along with several recommendations based on my experience. I am not a mechanic, and not an expert, and not very experienced with general aviation. Tire manufacturers recommend changing tubes when changing tires. Lots of people, including me, have re used tubes. If they look unfrayed and serviceable it may be ok.... or not. Here are three arguments for new tubes: 1. Tubes can get frayed and be subject to going flat. 6A will run a good chance of boogering up wheel pants or puting you in the ditch if flat on landing. 2. Tubes will usually stretch with age. reinstalling a stretched tube increases chance of pinching which may result in unexpected flat at later date. See 1. above 3. New generation, slow leak tubes are now available from van's. Cost more but go much longer before needing to be refilled. They cost about as much as cheap tires. I now buy and install new tubes with tire changes. Inspect and reuse after rotations. I am on my 7th set of main tires. Only one flat on main. It was a pinched tube after change. Always try to give it a 24 hour leak check before flying when you can. I also would recommend installing a new tube in the nose gear at annual. Those get frayed and twisted more and I have experienced several flats. None were fun. Also carry a spare tube on x country. One more bit of unsolicited free advice. Don't install patched tubes on the nose. Too much wiggling around, Can come loose. Denis On Oct 22, 2008, at 9:02 , mark phipps wrote: > At 200 hours its time for new tires and brakes on my 6A. Whats the > opinion when changing tires should I replace the tubes as well. And > if so what tubes are people having luck with that hold air pressure > and need filling less often. > > Mark Phipps, RV6A, "Gypsy Spirit" 200 hours > > > - > > > _- > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > ====================== > _- > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > ====================== > _- > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > ====================== > _- > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > = > 3D > ====================== > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:41:19 AM PST US From: Denis Walsh Subject: Re: RV-List: Starter Contactor Hook up the fat wire to the battery, but leave off the one to the starter. Apply 12v to the little terminals one at a time. Use the one that makes it go click for your starter switch wire.. DLW On Oct 21, 2008, at 9:14 , partner14 wrote: > > > I have the B&C S701-2 Crossfeed Contactor (starter) and just need to > know what wires go to each contact. Really the ones in question are > the two small contacts. Neither has the "S" or "I" labels that I've > read everyone referencing. Noone at B & C could tell me, so > hopefully someone has this wired up already. I've attached the > photo that is on the B & C website with the can lid on the top, and > one diode going from the left small contact, over and above to the > right large lug. This particular contactor has the 2 large lugs on > each side and 2 smaller lugs in the middle. I also tried Bob > Nuckolls, but email address was no longer valid. Thanks, > Don McDonald > #40636 > > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9788#209788 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/s701_2_123.jpg > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:53:25 AM PST US From: "Doug Medema" Subject: RV-List: Re: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? One thing no one has mentioned is the question of what is your interior going to be? I painted the whole interior on my -6A, and later decided to go with an interior package from Flightline Interiors. This includes fabric to cover most of the interior walls. It really makes for a much nicer look than just paint, and at very little extra weight. If I had planned on this from the start, I would have minimized the painting in my interior to just a primer. The fabric will cover up any scratches that happen during building and provides a more durable surface in the finished plane. Something to think about. Doug RV-6A N276DM http://home.comcast.net/~doug.medema/ ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:58:59 AM PST US From: linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Changing tires on RV6A mark phipps wrote: > At 200 hours its time for new tires and brakes on my 6A. Whats the > opinion when changing tires should I replace the tubes as well. And if > so what tubes are people having luck with that hold air pressure and > need filling less often. > > Mark Phipps, RV6A, "Gypsy Spirit" 200 hours > My opinion is to use the tube until it shows signs of dry rot ..... small cracks in the surface. They usually show up long before the tube actually leaks. Other opinions abound, and YMMV. Linn > > > - > > * > > > * > > > * > > > * ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:08:37 AM PST US From: linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Changing tires on RV6A Denis Walsh wrote: > Dear Mark, > > > Here are some observations, along with several recommendations based > on my experience. I am not a mechanic, and not an expert, and not > very experienced with general aviation. > > Tire manufacturers recommend changing tubes when changing tires. > Lots of people, including me, have re used tubes. If they look > unfrayed and serviceable it may be ok.... or not. Here are three > arguments for new tubes: > > 1. Tubes can get frayed and be subject to going flat. 6A will run a > good chance of boogering up wheel pants or puting you in the ditch if > flat on landing. > > 2. Tubes will usually stretch with age. reinstalling a stretched tube > increases chance of pinching which may result in unexpected flat at > later date. See 1. above You can mitigate pinching if you use copious amounts of talc when you reassemble .... I put talc on both tube and inside of the tire. Once assembled inflate and deflate a couple of times .... I leave the core out and use an air gun to do this. > 3. New generation, slow leak tubes are now available from van's. > Cost more but go much longer before needing to be refilled. They > cost about as much as cheap tires. And for me, the cost is a big deterrent to buying a new tube with a new tire. > I now buy and install new tubes with tire changes. Inspect and reuse > after rotations. I am on my 7th set of main tires. Only one flat on > main. It was a pinched tube after change. Most likely not the tubes fault. > Always try to give it a 24 hour leak check before flying when you can. Really good advice!!! > I also would recommend installing a new tube in the nose gear at > annual. Those get frayed and twisted more and I have experienced > several flats. None were fun. Also carry a spare tube on x country. > One more bit of unsolicited free advice. Don't install patched tubes > on the nose. Too much wiggling around, Can come loose. C'mon guys ... patching a tube isn't an option (IMHO) ..... for a lot of reasons ..... and the ones Denis (with one N) mentioned are big ones. Tough to balance a tire with a patch in it. Now things may be different with the Vans gear .... I don't have any experience with Vans stuff ..... yet. Linn > > Denis > On Oct 22, 2008, at 9:02 , mark phipps wrote: > >> At 200 hours its time for new tires and brakes on my 6A. Whats the >> opinion when changing tires should I replace the tubes as well. And >> if so what tubes are people having luck with that hold air pressure >> and need filling less often. >> >> Mark Phipps, RV6A, "Gypsy Spirit" 200 hours >> >> >> >> - >> >> * >> >> * >> >> >> * >> 3D============================================ >> href="3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List >> 3D============================================ >> href="3D"http://forums.matronics.com"">http://forums.matronics.com >> 3D============================================ >> href="3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> 3D============================================ >> >> * > > * > > > * ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 09:50:42 AM PST US From: "Steven Reynard" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? Hi Doug, Could you put a couple of interior shots on your web site to show how it came out? Not that I have to worry about it for a long time. . . . :( Steve RV-7A, Empennage On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 8:49 AM, Doug Medema wrote: > One thing no one has mentioned is the question of what is your interior > going to be? > > I painted the whole interior on my -6A, and later decided to go with an > interior > package from Flightline Interiors. This includes fabric to cover most of > the interior > walls. It really makes for a much nicer look than just paint, and at very > little > extra weight. > > If I had planned on this from the start, I would have minimized the > painting in > my interior to just a primer. The fabric will cover up any scratches that > happen > during building and provides a more durable surface in the finished plane. > > Something to think about. > > Doug > RV-6A N276DM > http://home.comcast.net/~doug.medema/ > > * > > * > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 10:16:38 AM PST US From: "Dale Ensing" Subject: Re: RV-List: Changing tires on RV6A Mark, Highly recommend the Michelin Airstop tubes. They hold the pressure much be tter and well worth the cost. http://www.airmichelin.com/pdfs/GAAIRSTO.pdf Dale Ensing RV-6A 220 hours ----- Original Message ----- From: mark phipps To: rv-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 11:02 AM Subject: RV-List: Changing tires on RV6A At 200 hours its time for new tires and brakes on my 6A. Whats the opinion when changing tires should I replace the tubes as well. And if so w hat tubes are people having luck with that hold air pressure and need filli ng less often. Mark Phipps, RV6A, "Gypsy Spirit" 200 hours - 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 10:31:27 AM PST US From: mr.gsun@gmail.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Changing tires on RV6A I've been happy with the Michelin tires and their airstop tubes. Run @ 32psi on my -7 and have changed tubes each time tire changed, rotate tires once each year and got two years out last set of tires. They still had a little life left. do not archive On Wed, Oct 22, 2008 at 10:15 AM, Dale Ensing wrote: > Mark, > > Highly recommend the Michelin Airstop tubes. They hold the pressure much > better and well worth the cost. > http://www.airmichelin.com/pdfs/GAAIRSTO.pdf > > Dale Ensing > RV-6A > 220 hours > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* mark phipps > *To:* rv-list@matronics.com > *Sent:* Wednesday, October 22, 2008 11:02 AM > *Subject:* RV-List: Changing tires on RV6A > > At 200 hours its time for new tires and brakes on my 6A. Whats the > opinion when changing tires should I replace the tubes as well. And if so > what tubes are people having luck with that hold air pressure and need > filling less often. > > Mark Phipps, RV6A, "Gypsy Spirit" 200 hours > > > - > > * >> >> * >> >> > * > > 3D======================================= > 3D==== > >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > 3D============================================ > matronics.com > 3D======================================= > 3D==== > ://www.matronics.com/contribution > 3D============================================ > > * > > * > > * > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 11:49:07 AM PST US From: Matt Dralle Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? Fabric or leather interior is certainly a nicer option than painting. But it seems like it would be *a lot* heavier than paint. Does anyone make an interior kit for the RV-8? I've seen them for the RV-6/7. I'm getting my seats from Classic Aero Designs in leather (which are beautiful, btw), but they don't seem to offer a interior package per say. Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res) At 08:49 AM 10/22/2008 Wednesday, you wrote: >One thing no one has mentioned is the question of what is your interior going to be? > >I painted the whole interior on my -6A, and later decided to go with an interior >package from Flightline Interiors. This includes fabric to cover most of the interior >walls. It really makes for a much nicer look than just paint, and at very little >extra weight. > >If I had planned on this from the start, I would have minimized the painting in >my interior to just a primer. The fabric will cover up any scratches that happen >during building and provides a more durable surface in the finished plane. > >Something to think about. > >Doug >RV-6A N276DM >http://home.comcast.net/~doug.medema/ > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 12:36:03 PM PST US From: "Larry James" Subject: RV-List: Interior Painting - Powdercoat I have two very different data points regarding powdercoating; 1) A local builder powdercoated the interior of his RV-8A. He did the powdercoating very early in his build and it came out pretty nice. At final W/B it ended up on the light side so evidently weight wasn't a big factor. Given this single experience powdercoating the interior may be a viable option. 2) A long time ago I powdercoated structural components (a-arms) in race cars. One cracked and was not found until after the ensuing crash. Consequently I never powdercoat anything any longer (except non-structural cosmetic things having nothing to do with cars, airplanes, and the like). And this is not meant as a dig in any way to the poster here that owns/runs a powdercoat shop ... good on ya from one small business owner to another !! Larry E. James Bellevue, WA Super Decathlon Rocket (still under construction) ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 03:35:03 PM PST US From: Matt Dralle Subject: RV-List: Re: TruTrak "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim"... At 05:37 AM 10/22/2008 Wednesday, you wrote: >--> RV8-List message posted by: "Don McNamara" > >Also, Matt, what's that gizmo attached to your pitch servo? I have a TT system as well, but don't have that rectangular thing with a wire for my control arm ... > >-- Don > N8RV The special linkage between the stepper motor and the pitch axis bellcrank is a strain gauge that provides feedback to another electric box from TruTrak that controls the elevator trim tab. When the strain gauge detects pressure on the elevator because of an out-of-trim condition, the device will automatically feed in trim to compensate and reduces the workload on the pitch axis servo. This function is wired in parallel with the normal electric trim button on the stick that the pilot uses so the trim input from the system can always be overridden. They call it their "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim". I believe that it only works in conjunction with the autopilot engaged, however. It would be cool if would also auto-trim for different power settings when the autopilot was disengaged. I've included a picture of the linkage below and more information from TruTrak's web site below as well. Seems like a really cool device. Here's a link to the Manual: http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/AutomaticPitchTrim.pdf Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res) [] Emacs! ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 04:26:05 PM PST US From: "Dave Saylor" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: TruTrak "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim"... We installed TT automatic trim after flying for about 100 hours. Man, what a difference. I was a little put off at the cost but now I couldn't do without it. It made it a different airplane. It's definatley worthwhile. BTW, some servos have the strain gauge built in. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com _____ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 3:33 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: TruTrak "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim"... At 05:37 AM 10/22/2008 Wednesday, you wrote: --> RV8-List message posted by: "Don McNamara" Also, Matt, what's that gizmo attached to your pitch servo? I have a TT system as well, but don't have that rectangular thing with a wire for my control arm ... -- Don N8RV The special linkage between the stepper motor and the pitch axis bellcrank is a strain gauge that provides feedback to another electric box from TruTrak that controls the elevator trim tab. When the strain gauge detects pressure on the elevator because of an out-of-trim condition, the device will automatically feed in trim to compensate and reduces the workload on the pitch axis servo. This function is wired in parallel with the normal electric trim button on the stick that the pilot uses so the trim input from the system can always be overridden. They call it their "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim". I believe that it only works in conjunction with the autopilot engaged, however. It would be cool if would also auto-trim for different power settings when the autopilot was disengaged. I've included a picture of the linkage below and more information from TruTrak's web site below as well. Seems like a really cool device. Here's a link to the Manual: http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/AutomaticPitchTrim.pdf Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res) [] Emacs! ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 06:59:01 PM PST US From: "Paul Winkels" Subject: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? Matt, I have had several steel and aluminum parts powder coated on my RV-7, and I asked my powder coater about the limitations of powder coating. He said he would be very hesitant to powder coat anything thinner than about .063" aluminum because the heat can cause deformation, especially in larger parts. I am no expert, but I don't think it would be advisable to place your assembled fuselage into a 400 degree oven!!! I certainly wouldn't do it. Also, powder coating can add considerably more weight than priming/painting. By the way, I had my assembled brake pedals powder coated with excellent results. My instrument panel will also get powder coated (before the instruments are installed, of course ;). Other than the slider canopy latch hook, that's about the extent of aluminum parts I'll powder coat. Of the steel parts powder coated, I've done the tailwheel spring and fork assembly, slider canopy frame and roll bar, and canopy latch handle, but that's about it. Hope this helps, Paul -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 19:12 Subject: RV8-List: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? --> RV8-List message posted by: Matt Dralle Fellow RV-er's, There is a powercoating shop here in my town that has an oven large enough to put my whole RV-8 fuselage into it. I've been considering just having the whole inside powercoated for the durability, and sweet look. Lots of guys powercoat the instrument panel and obviously most of the steel parts come from Van's powercoated. But what are the upsides and downsides of powercoating all of the interior parts. I've used Variprime on most of the backsides of the interior parts, but I've left the occupant facing parts bare in prep for the powercoating. Will the powercoat chip off easily on the bend-y pieces? And when's the right time to take it down to the powercoaters? I would like to have most things riveted that need riveting before the coating like the forward deck over the instrument panel and the aft turtledeck, but these get riveted on pretty late in the building process. I would like to have all of the wiring and controls installed or at least fabbed and trial fitted before coating to avoid scratches. But again, once things are wired, is coating going to make a mess? Its not like the harnesses can really be removed once their installed... The other concern is the heat necessary to bake on the powercoating. I think its upwards of 450 degrees F. What impact will that temperature have on the various parts that go into the fuselage such as the aeronuts, plastic bushings, clamps, etc? I'm in quite a dilemma over this. I really want to wait as long as possible to avoid scratches and chips in the powercoating, but I don't want to wait too long and not be able to disassemble things to the point of making a good looking job. For example, the rear floor boards should probably be riveted down, but any screwed in panels should be removed. But riveting the floorboards is something I'd probably prefer to do the day before test flying... Thanks for any insight... Matt Dralle RV-8 # 82880 Trutrak Auto Pilot Servo and Aileron Electric Trim Install ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.