RV-List Digest Archive

Tue 11/25/08


Total Messages Posted: 9



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:32 AM - Re: AFP Fuel Injection (scott bilinski)
     2. 06:46 AM - Re: Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A (Michael D. Cencula)
     3. 07:22 AM - Re: AFP Fuel Injection (Danny)
     4. 11:19 AM - Re: AFP Fuel Injection (Mike Robertson)
     5. 12:03 PM - 200 HP IFR RV-4 For Sale (Paul Besing)
     6. 12:20 PM - Re: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? (Charles Kuss)
     7. 12:41 PM - Re: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
     8. 01:53 PM - Re: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? (Richard Tasker)
     9. 07:19 PM - Re: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? ()
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:32:12 AM PST US
    From: scott bilinski <rv8a2001@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: AFP Fuel Injection
    Cold/hot start basicaly the same, 3~5 seconds prime, throttle at fast idle, mixture full rich. For hot, the same thing except keep the purge valve at engine cut off until it starts and then open. I can only think of one time in the last 5 years this did not work and that was due to not priming enough. Your results may vary. Scott RV-8a ----- Original Message ---- From: DEAN PSIROPOULOS <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net> Sent: Monday, November 24, 2008 8:46:12 PM Subject: RV-List: AFP Fuel Injection You folks that have Airflow Performance Fuel Injection with purge valve.... What is the easiest way to start the engine? I have been using the official AFP procedure but you have to juggle the mixture and throttle after the engine catches (and before it quits again)!! Nothing against Don's procedure, I just wondered if there might be a way to get a good start with less monkey motion?! Any thoughts? Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM First flight yesterday (.5 hours)!!!


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:46:54 AM PST US
    From: "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics@cencula.com>
    Subject: Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A
    Bob, As my RV-7A is not complete, I do not have images of an installation. I thought I would offer some food for thought, however: A ground plane is pretty much what it sounds like...a flat planar surface which effectively doubles the effective length of an antenna. On the side-by- side Van's designs, the fuselage behind the passenger / baggage is pretty flat and open. Unless you consider mounting the antenna to the top of a wing (I wouldn't due to problems George has already mentioned), there's not a better ground plane on the aircraft. It's also been noted (elsewhere) that there is an area of negative flow behind the canopy meaning that the air is quite turbulent and actually flowing forward. Although I don't have a link, I've seen images where RV builders have applied yarn tufts to their fuselage which demonstrates this. Taking those two points into consideration leads me to believe that installation of a 406Mhz ELT antenna on the top, centerline of the fuselage a short distance behind the passenger compartment would result in excellent transmission characteristics and essentially zero speed impact. Whle I have no radiation graphs to support my theory, that's where I'll be mounting mine. Mike Cencula RV-7A (fuselage) www.our7a.com On Wednesday November 19 2008 08:56:51 pm bcollinsmn wrote: > > So, umm, back to the original question. Does anyone have any images of > their antenna installation for this configuration. Just curious. Thanks. > > -------- > Bob Collins > St. Paul, Minn. > RV-7A (#&amp;^ fiberglass!) > http://rvbuildershotline.com > Day job: > http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/ > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215192#215192 > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:22:14 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: AFP Fuel Injection
    From: Danny <vft@aol.com>
    For cold starts: Purge valve open (run position) Throttle/Mixture full Boost pump until pressure rises then off Throttle to just above idle (looking for around 1000 rpm setting) Mags on and crank For hot starts: Purge valve closed Throttle/Mixture full Boost pump on (I let it run while I get everything ready to go) Throttle to just above idle Mag on and crank Purge valve open when the engine fires Danny Melnik F1 N14ZM Rocket Factory Melbourne, FL -----Original Message----- From: DEAN PSIROPOULOS <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net> Sent: Mon, 24 Nov 2008 11:46 pm Subject: RV-List: AFP Fuel Injection You folks that have Airflow Performance Fuel Injection with purge valve.... What is the easiest way to start the engine? I have been using the official AFP procedure but you have to juggle the mixture and throttle after the engine catches (and before it quits again)!! Nothing against Don's procedure, I just wondered if there might be a way to get a good start with less monkey motion?! Any thoughts? Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM First flight yesterday (.5 hours)!!!


    Message 4


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    Time: 11:19:34 AM PST US
    From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
    Subject: AFP Fuel Injection
    Dean=2C Its good to see that you are finally flying that thing. On the AFP system I use the same procedure for both hot and cold=2C and hav e found that it works well for me. 1st: Throttle to idle=2C mixture to rich=2C and the bypass in the cutoff po sition (normally full out) 2nd: Boost pump on until flow (on fuel flow meter) stablizes (around 2.5 GP H). 3rd: Prime=2C by pushing in the bypass valve=2C for 5-10 seconds. 4th: Pull bypass to cutoff and place throttle to full idle then forward app rox. 1/4 to 3/8 inch. 5th: put hand on the by-pass knob=2C make sure magneto(s) are on=2C and hit starter. 6th: When engine catches=2C push bypass to full open and adjust throttle to 1000 RPM. if engine doesn't catch within a couple of rotations=2C stop tr ying to start and re-prime before attempting to start again. The only time I move the mixture is to lean or richen to mixture. Other th an that it stays in the full rich position. For shutdown I set the throttle to 1000 RPM=2C let stablize for a couple of seconds and then pull the bypass to cutoff. AS the engine dies I push the throttle to full open and leave it there. That helps clear the intake are a of any gas fumes and helps to reduce the chance of backfire during the ne xt starting. Granted=2C if you aren't going to start the engine for a day or so=2C the chances aren't great of a backfire=2C but the positive habit t ransfer oif doing the same way every time reduces the odds of screw-up. Enjoy the flying. PS: We are going to be in Orlando Jan 10-17. Maybe we can get together. Mike Robertson Das Fed Several RVs to credit > Date: Mon=2C 24 Nov 2008 23:46:12 -0500> From: dean.psiropoulos@verizon.n et> Subject: RV-List: AFP Fuel Injection> To: rv-list@matronics.com> > --> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net >> > You folks that have Airflow Performance Fuel Injection with purge valv e....> What is the easiest way to start the engine? I have been using the o fficial> AFP procedure but you have to juggle the mixture and throttle afte r the> engine catches (and before it quits again)!! Nothing against Don's> procedure=2C I just wondered if there might be a way to get a good start wi th> less monkey motion?! Any thoughts?> > Dean Psiropoulos> RV-6A N197DM> F ====================== _________________________________________________________________ Access your email online and on the go with Windows Live Hotmail. http://windowslive.com/Explore/Hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_acce ss_112008


    Message 5


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    Time: 12:03:19 PM PST US
    From: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
    Subject: 200 HP IFR RV-4 For Sale
    Selling due to upcoming military deployment...read on!=0A=0A1989 Van=A2s RV -4=0ALycoming IO-360 200HP=0A10:1 Pistons=0AChromed Cylinders=0A200 HP Cam =0A1000 TTAF=0A1000 SMOH=0AAnnual due 06/09=0AIFR due 05/10=0A=0AGood compr essions, regularly flown=0A=0AProp:=0AClaus Savier made wood/fiberglass spe ed prop, Fixed Pitch=0AOverhauled by Claus 2006=0A=0APaint:=0AImron sunburs t style, Red, Orange, Yellow Condition is 7-8, but there have been added p arts and replacements that require repainting. New rudder, gear leg fairin gs, canopy fairing repair, cowl modification, etc.=0A=0AAvionics:=0AGarmin SL30 NAV/COMM w/GS=0AKing KY197 Comm=0AGarmin GTX 327 Transponder=0APS Engi neering PM8000 Intercom with Marker Beacon=0AGarmin MD200-306 VOR/LOC/GS=0A Trio Avionics EZPilot=0AEDO Vacuum Gyros=0ARocky Mountain MicroEncoder whic h provides:=0A Airspeed=0A Altimeter=0A OAT=0A Vertical Speed I ndicator=0A Pressure Altitude/Density Altitude=0A =0AElectronics Inte rnational UBG-16 engine monitor which provides:=0A CHT all cylinders=0A EGT all cylinders=0A Volts=0A Amps=0A Oil Temp=0A Oil Pressu re=0A Data Recording=0AElectronics International FP-5L Fuel Flow/Totaliz er=0AG-Meter=0AElectric Flaps=0ABell Tailwheel=0AFiberglass gear fairings =0AWing light (left side)=0AWingtip Position/Strobe=0ATail Strobe=0APanel L ighting (Electroluminescent instrument lights)=0AHeater=0ARear seat control stick (removable)=0ADJM Manufacturing Throttle Quadrant=0AManual Trim=0A =0A=0ANow, the squaks..I=A2ve been doing a lot of modifications over the la st 24 months. =0AA new rudder was built due to trailing edge cracks on old Van=A2s design. New rudder is new design with thicker skin. Needs paint. =0A=0ASkybolt fasteners put on aft edge of top cowl to replace hinge. Adju stment and minor fiberglass work needed. Cowl needs paint in this area.=0A =0ARebuilt front canopy fairing due to air leaking in cockpit Needs paint and minor finishing.=0A=0AInstalled rear seat airvent in fuselage. Needs p aint in this area=0A=0AInstalled fiberglass gear leg fairings. Needs pain t and minor finish work.=0A=0AGyros need overhaul from aerobatics. IFR not possible for obvious reasons until overhauled. Pitot static is fine and r ecently certified.=0A=0AMy plan was to finish all these modifications and s trip and repaint the airplane. The existing paint is fine, but due to all of the modifications, if a new paint scheme is desired, it would be a good time to do it, instead of painting all the areas that need assistance.=0A =0A=0AThe airplane flies wonderful. Is very fast (170 kt cruise all day lo ng) Someone with desire to customize the cosmetics will have a fantastic a irplane. Selling due to military deployment and do not want to store, insu re, maintain, etc while deployed.=0A=0AI paid $55k for this airplane before the IFR panel, and other mods totalling approximately $20K. Will sell a $ 75k RV-4 for $55k since there are some minor cosmetic work and paint needed .=0A=0AAdditional pics at www.mykitlog.com/pbesing Will post more pics ver y soon.=0A=0APaul Besing=0A=0A=0A


    Message 6


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    Time: 12:20:56 PM PST US
    From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how?
    Bob Nucholls of the Aeroelectric List shows how to make one on his web site. I just looked there, but could not find it. I have seen it on there in the past. You might want to ask this question on the Aeroelectric List (on Matronics). Bob refers to this device as a "Com Tap". Charlie Kuss --- On Tue, 11/25/08, J Riffel <riffeljl@gmail.com> wrote: > From: J Riffel <riffeljl@gmail.com> > Subject: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? > To: "rv-list" <rv-list@matronics.com> > Date: Tuesday, November 25, 2008, 12:05 AM > I'd like to be able to connect my handheld to my > external com1 antenna in an > emergency. I know that the Icom Ant-SB does that - but > it's about $75. > Anyone built one (or know how to build one)? > > I'm GUESSING that it's just a simple shielded box > with 3 BNCs (IN from Com1, > OUT to Antenna and IN from handheld). When the handheld is > plugged in, the > BNC from Com1 would be disconnected (so the handheld > doesn't xmit INTO > Com1). > > Ideas anybody?


    Message 7


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    Time: 12:41:31 PM PST US
    From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
    Subject: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how?
    I believe Bob yanked it from his site because he felt the Icom unit did the job adequately for the money. I think there was also something about his he didn't like. Michael Sausen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Kuss Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 2:20 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? Bob Nucholls of the Aeroelectric List shows how to make one on his web site. I just looked there, but could not find it. I have seen it on there in the past. You might want to ask this question on the Aeroelectric List (on Matronics). Bob refers to this device as a "Com Tap". Charlie Kuss --- On Tue, 11/25/08, J Riffel <riffeljl@gmail.com> wrote: > From: J Riffel <riffeljl@gmail.com> > Subject: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? > To: "rv-list" <rv-list@matronics.com> > Date: Tuesday, November 25, 2008, 12:05 AM > I'd like to be able to connect my handheld to my > external com1 antenna in an > emergency. I know that the Icom Ant-SB does that - but > it's about $75. > Anyone built one (or know how to build one)? > > I'm GUESSING that it's just a simple shielded box > with 3 BNCs (IN from Com1, > OUT to Antenna and IN from handheld). When the handheld is > plugged in, the > BNC from Com1 would be disconnected (so the handheld > doesn't xmit INTO > Com1). > > Ideas anybody?


    Message 8


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    Time: 01:53:05 PM PST US
    From: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
    Subject: Re: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how?
    Bob yanked it because he was not impressed with the quality of the majority of mini-phone jacks in the marketplace now to which I can attest as well. I am an electrical engineer and have lots of "stuff" that I have collected over the years (40 by now - years that is). Comparing the new jacks with some I purchased many years ago there is a world of difference. I suspect that you may be able to get good parts now if you search, but the readily available ones are not very good. The contacts are not very "springy" and quite easily take a "set". Since you are counting on the normally closed contacts to connect your primary radio to your antenna and these are the contacts that are moved by the plug when inserted, it is not a great design. I would hope (but I do not know) that ICOM has found a very robust mini-jack to minimize (or hopefully eliminate) this issue. You could also accomplish the same thing with a small switch to connect the antenna to either comm1 or to your handheld radio and enclose it in a box with three BNC connectors (antenna, comm1, handheld) but it would not be "automatic". Dick Tasker RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > > I believe Bob yanked it from his site because he felt the Icom unit did the job adequately for the money. I think there was also something about his he didn't like. > > Michael Sausen > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Kuss > Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 2:20 PM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? > > > Bob Nucholls of the Aeroelectric List shows how to make one on his web site. I just looked there, but could not find it. I have seen it on there in the past. You might want to ask this question on the Aeroelectric List (on Matronics). Bob refers to this device as a "Com Tap". > Charlie Kuss > > > --- On Tue, 11/25/08, J Riffel <riffeljl@gmail.com> wrote: > > >> From: J Riffel <riffeljl@gmail.com> >> Subject: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? >> To: "rv-list" <rv-list@matronics.com> >> Date: Tuesday, November 25, 2008, 12:05 AM >> I'd like to be able to connect my handheld to my >> external com1 antenna in an >> emergency. I know that the Icom Ant-SB does that - but >> it's about $75. >> Anyone built one (or know how to build one)? >> >> I'm GUESSING that it's just a simple shielded box >> with 3 BNCs (IN from Com1, >> OUT to Antenna and IN from handheld). When the handheld is >> plugged in, the >> BNC from Com1 would be disconnected (so the handheld >> doesn't xmit INTO >> Com1). >> >> Ideas anybody? >> > > > > > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 07:19:30 PM PST US
    From: <John.Morrissey@csiro.au>
    Subject: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how?
    Hi All, A simple solution would be to have a male/female inline connector somewhere accessible in the cockpit. Radio fails, disconnect the cable and plug it into you handheld. Cheers John Morrissey -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Tasker Sent: Wednesday, 26 November 2008 8:52 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? Bob yanked it because he was not impressed with the quality of the majority of mini-phone jacks in the marketplace now to which I can attest as well. I am an electrical engineer and have lots of "stuff" that I have collected over the years (40 by now - years that is). Comparing the new jacks with some I purchased many years ago there is a world of difference. I suspect that you may be able to get good parts now if you search, but the readily available ones are not very good. The contacts are not very "springy" and quite easily take a "set". Since you are counting on the normally closed contacts to connect your primary radio to your antenna and these are the contacts that are moved by the plug when inserted, it is not a great design. I would hope (but I do not know) that ICOM has found a very robust mini-jack to minimize (or hopefully eliminate) this issue. You could also accomplish the same thing with a small switch to connect the antenna to either comm1 or to your handheld radio and enclose it in a box with three BNC connectors (antenna, comm1, handheld) but it would not be "automatic". Dick Tasker RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > > I believe Bob yanked it from his site because he felt the Icom unit did the job adequately for the money. I think there was also something about his he didn't like. > > Michael Sausen > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Kuss > Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 2:20 PM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? > > > Bob Nucholls of the Aeroelectric List shows how to make one on his web site. I just looked there, but could not find it. I have seen it on there in the past. You might want to ask this question on the Aeroelectric List (on Matronics). Bob refers to this device as a "Com Tap". > Charlie Kuss > > > --- On Tue, 11/25/08, J Riffel <riffeljl@gmail.com> wrote: > > >> From: J Riffel <riffeljl@gmail.com> >> Subject: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? >> To: "rv-list" <rv-list@matronics.com> >> Date: Tuesday, November 25, 2008, 12:05 AM >> I'd like to be able to connect my handheld to my >> external com1 antenna in an >> emergency. I know that the Icom Ant-SB does that - but >> it's about $75. >> Anyone built one (or know how to build one)? >> >> I'm GUESSING that it's just a simple shielded box >> with 3 BNCs (IN from Com1, >> OUT to Antenna and IN from handheld). When the handheld is >> plugged in, the >> BNC from Com1 would be disconnected (so the handheld >> doesn't xmit INTO >> Com1). >> >> Ideas anybody? >> > >




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