Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:42 AM - Re: Re: Routing Elevator Trim Tab Servo Wires (Mike Schulz)
2. 06:44 AM - vinyl adhesive remover (Frazier, Vincent A)
3. 08:26 AM - Re: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation (John Barrett)
4. 09:36 AM - Re: Routing Elevator Trim Tab Servo Wires (Charles Kuss)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Routing Elevator Trim Tab Servo Wires |
I'm not that far along yet so I hope this doesn't sound dumb but what does
the wire go to, and what does it do?
Mike Schulz
Pro Fish Enterprises, LLC
4878 Edgewater Drive
Mound, MN 55364
612-590-8604
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 1:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Routing Elevator Trim Tab Servo Wires
At 10:01 PM 1/24/2009 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>Greetings:
>
>Looking for a better solution than routing the Trim Tab Servo wires thru
the hole in the Elevator Spar (where the long Servo Motor Screw goes).
>
>Does anybody have any pictures or diagrams of the Wire Routing of the Trim
Tab Motor wires in the Elevator to the Horizontal STABILIZER to the
fuselage.
>
>Not much given on this subject on Matronics.
>
>Thanks, Garey Santa Monica, CA
Hi Garey,
I just did this task. I simply drilled a 1/4" hole above the servo screw
hole and added a little black plastic bushing. Attached is a picture.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV (res)
Building Time Since July 2008: 728.75 Hours
Message 2
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Subject: | vinyl adhesive remover |
**** SNIP ***** Subject: RV-List: Removing White Vinyl Protective
Material
Guys,
Do you have good shortcuts for removing this stuff?
I have material on the leading edges of both wings.
I've been using a heat gun with a tongue depressor
that has been squared off and sharpened on sander.
The project is slow - I can removed 1/4 to 1/2 wide strip
with each pass. The wood does not scratch the aluminum
but there is a very thin adhesive film still on the wing. I
plan to use MEK outside later this spring to remove the residuals.
(It's -10 here in MN this morning.)
The archives haven't yielded any good suggestions...
Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Joe
****** SNIP *******
I use an adhesive remover in my graphics business that works great to
remove vinyl adhesive and other sticky stuff. It is safe to use, much
less dangerous than MEK or other solvents, although technically it is
flammable. The really nice feature of this product is that it is
specifically designed to be safe on plexiglas. Contact me directly if
you want to order some.
Vince Frazier vfrazier@usi.edu
www.flyboyaccessories.com
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation |
I read with interest the discussion presented I think by Mark Phillips of a
technique for using hinges on the wingtip to avoid the multiple screws for
attachment apparatus. In the Lancair world many have been using a similar
technique for several years and it has been shown to be much more esthetic,
lighter weight and, as the author suggested, more durable because the paint
doesn't get dinged up and scratched during service events.
The difference is that in our world of plastic airplanes, metal hinges are
replaced with graphite ones to save additional weight, to decrease
substantially installation work and to increase durability by replacing
metal to composite bonds with composite to composite adhesive bonds that
will not be subject to deterioration under vibration and stress loads.
The dilemma faced with RV aircraft that use composite wingtips and cowls
attached to
metal fuselage and wings is that there is a greater challenge to bond these
dissimilar materials and to decide where the interface is best chosen -
between aluminum hinge and composite wingtip or between composite hinge and
aluminum wing?
In my experience I have learned that aluminum surfaces corrode into aluminum
oxide, which then wears away a minute layer during vibration and stress.
With metal hinges, this relentless constant process results in an
increasingly sloppier fit that starts at day one. Sometimes it results in
unsightly black streaks on the aircraft surface radiating from the source in
the direction of the airflow during flight. Sometimes it results in broken
hinge tabs over time after the attached part develops greater play when
forces are applied.
Carbinge graphite hinges don't exhibit these characteristics. They have
nylon sleeve bearings that don't wear. They save weight and the bonding
attachment is continuous all along the joint rather than point attached at
measured intervals. Modern high peel strength adhesives are available that
can provide very acceptable margins of safety when bonding to aluminum in
applications like wing tip attachment. As long as the metal is prepped
appropriately, the shear strength of the bond will be powerful enough to
easily suspend the entire wing from the hinge; in fact it could support the
entire aircraft.
For more detail and discussion of the technique with photos and additional
ideas about Carbinge Keepers to improve esthetics and ease of service use,
see www.carbinge.com. There is a page on wingtip installation as well as
discussion on cowl attachment. There is information on the engineering
tests we used to establish load limits for the device. If you look at the
photos you will note the samples were attached to aluminum tabs that the
testing device actually grabbed on to. These were attached using the same
high peel strength adhesives recommended for installation of Carbinge and
the adhesive bonds performed flawlessly during all tests.
Please note this is a shameless plug for a product. Read what you see here
in that context, but realize that the writer has knowledge of many
installation examples that have been successful for up to ten years over
thousands of hours of flight time in aircraft that perform at speeds and in
environments markedly more stressful than RV's are ever expected to achieve.
Regards,
John Barrett
Leading Edge Composites
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Routing Elevator Trim Tab Servo Wires |
Garey,
Drill a hole in the inboard elevator rib close to the elevator mounting weldment.
Pass the wires inboard thru the rib. Attach the wiring to the round tube part
of the weldment and then bring the wiring forward. Using this method, you
impart a twisting type of bend along the length of the wires, rather than a pure
bending.
Vans has also mentioned numerous times that additional holes in the spar will
weaken it.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Sun, 1/25/09, Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000@yahoo.com> wrote:
> From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000@yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Routing Elevator Trim Tab Servo Wires
> To: rv-list@matronics.com, rv7-list@matronics.com, rv8-list@matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, January 25, 2009, 1:01 AM
> <gareywittich2000@yahoo.com>
>
> Greetings:
>
> Looking for a better solution than routing the Trim Tab
> Servo wires thru the hole in the Elevator Spar (where the
> long Servo Motor Screw goes).
>
> Does anybody have any pictures or diagrams of the Wire
> Routing of the Trim Tab Motor wires in the Elevator to the
> Horizontal STABILIZER to the fuselage.
>
> Not much given on this subject on Matronics.
>
> Thanks, Garey Santa Monica, CA
>
>
>
>
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