Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:51 AM - Re: Slick Start Module (Charles Rowbotham)
2. 06:35 AM - Re: wiring question (scott bilinski)
3. 09:55 AM - Re: Slick Start Module (J. Mcculley)
4. 11:00 AM - Re: Slick Start Module (Chuck Weyant)
5. 12:53 PM - Re:Slick Start Module (Jerry2DT@AOL.COM)
6. 01:14 PM - Re: wiring question (John Bright)
7. 01:30 PM - Re: Slick Start Module (linn)
8. 03:40 PM - Re: Mark Landoll starter bracket (Charlie England)
9. 06:33 PM - N14ZM for sale (Danny)
10. 06:33 PM - Re: Mark Landoll starter bracket (Louis Willig)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Slick Start Module |
Hi Matt=2C
We installed the Slick Start on our IO-360 (200hp) with a single gel cel ba
ttery behind the rear bagage compartment. I felt that the slick start contr
ibuted to a quick atart even if the engine was hot (using the hot start pro
cedure). Always got a start. I would install another on my next RV.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (sold)
> Date: Sun=2C 1 Mar 2009 09:59:33 -0800
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> From: dralle@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Slick Start Module
>
>
>
> Anyone using the Slick Start module on their Lycoming? A pirep would be m
ost appreciated...
>
> Matt Dralle
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99 Contacts: Organize your contact list.
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cns!503D1D86EBB2B53C!2285.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_UGC_Contacts_032009
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: wiring question |
Just an FYI
The wire the aircraft defense industry uses is M22759-44-gage-color or M22759-32-gage-color
with the -44 being the better of the two. The solder used with this
wire needs to be 1.5% silver I beleive, such as Kester 48. This wire is much
stronger than standard wire of the same gage and can carry more amperage. We
are switching over to this wire now at work and can save a fair amount of weight
per aircraft.
Scott
RV-8a
--- On Sun, 3/1/09, Vanremog@aol.com <Vanremog@aol.com> wrote:
> From: Vanremog@aol.com <Vanremog@aol.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: wiring question
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, March 1, 2009, 5:00 PM
> Scott-
>
> All you have stated is correct, particularly with regard to
> the reliability
> of crimping vs soldering on all wires, but there is also a
> significant
> difference between 7 strand and 19 strand layup when it
> comes to needing to use
> lots of fine wires. This usually only happens when
> running lots of I/Os inside
> avionics boxes but 19 strand is far more resistant to
> breakage than is 7
> strand and should be encouraged when using 24AWG wires and
> smaller.
>
>
> N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 912hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon
> Valley)
>
>
>
> In a message dated 3/1/2009 2:57:08 P.M. Pacific Standard
> Time,
> rv8a2001@yahoo.com writes:
>
> After soldering 26~28 gage wires you just touch them they
> break. We have a
> connector at work with 28g and soldered! We tried to
> rework it and the wires
> broke off about the 3rd time they were moved, it was
> scrapped. I can get you
> all the mil spec numbers if it will help and the part
> number of the new wire
> if you want it. Although the new wire must have silver in
> the solder. Oh and
> in the aviation defense contractor industry, crimping is
> the way to go.
>
>
>
>
> **************Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax
> professional in your
> neighborhood today.
> (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filing&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000004)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Slick Start Module |
I've also used the Slick Start on my Lycoming O-360 for five plus years
and near 600 hours with a 17 AH RG battery, many "hot" starts, a Skytec
PM starter and B&C SD-8 PM alternator. I've never experienced better
overall performance and the elimination of an impulse magneto feature is
a very positive benefit.
Jim McCulley
Wittman Tailwind
==========================================================================================
Charles Rowbotham wrote:
> Hi Matt,
>
> We installed the Slick Start on our IO-360 (200hp) with a single gel cel
> battery behind the rear bagage compartment. I felt that the slick start
> contributed to a quick atart even if the engine was hot (using the hot
> start procedure). Always got a start. I would install another on my next RV.
>
> Chuck Rowbotham
> RV-8A (sold)
>
> > Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 09:59:33 -0800
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > From: dralle@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Slick Start Module
> >
> >
> >
> > Anyone using the Slick Start module on their Lycoming? A pirep would
> be most appreciated...
> >
> > Matt Dralle ((SNIP))
============================================================================================
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Slick Start Module |
Anyone got anything GOOD to say about a single impulse Slick mags for a
IO540? That's what I'm going to be running.
Chuck
> I've also used the Slick Start on my Lycoming O-360 for five plus years
> and near 600 hours with a 17 AH RG battery, many "hot" starts, a Skytec PM
> starter and B&C SD-8 PM alternator. I've never experienced better overall
> performance and the elimination of an impulse magneto feature is a very
> positive benefit.
>
> Jim McCulley
> Wittman Tailwind
> ==========================================================================================
>
> Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>> Hi Matt,
>> We installed the Slick Start on our IO-360 (200hp) with a single gel cel
>> battery behind the rear bagage compartment. I felt that the slick start
>> contributed to a quick atart even if the engine was hot (using the hot
>> start procedure). Always got a start. I would install another on my next
>> RV.
>>
Message 5
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| Subject: | RE:Slick Start Module |
I've had 3 RV's all with O-360. The one with SlickStart fires instantly, far
better than the others. I usually give it one stroke of throttle, no primer
and she fires immediately in all kind of weather, engine temp hot or cold.
Highly recommend same.
Jerry
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
%3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: wiring question |
This is from AS22759 which may be the latest designation of this specificat
ion but it has no advice on selection:=0A=0ASAE-AS22759/32, WIRE, ELECTRICA
L, FLUOROPOLYMER-INSULATED,=0ACROSSLINKED MODIFIED ETFE, LIGHTWEIGHT, TIN-C
OATED COPPER, 150 =B0C,=0A600-VOLT.=0A=0ASAE-AS22759/44, WIRE, ELECTRICAL,
FLUOROPOLYMER-INSULATED,=0ACROSSLINKED MODIFIED ETFE, LIGHTWEIGHT, SILVER-C
OATED COPPER,=0A200 =B0C, 600-VOLT.=0A=0AI looked up the melting pints of t
in and silver... 232 and 962 C respectively.=0A=0AThere are designators fro
m AS22759/1 to AS22795/92.=0A=0AI haven't done looked but I imagine AeroEle
ctric Connection has advice.=0A=0A Thanks,=0A=0A=0AJohn Bright=0Ao:757-864-
2305=0Ah:757-874-0861=0Ac:757-812-1909=0Ahttp://www.facebook.com/people/Joh
n_Bright/1450601073=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom:
scott bilinski <rv8a2001@yahoo.com>=0ATo: rv-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Mon
day, March 2, 2009 9:31:19 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV-List: wiring question=0A=0A
Just an FYI=0A=0AThe wire the aircraft defense industry uses is M22759-44-g
age-color or M22759-32-gage-color with the -44 being the better of the two.
The solder used with this wire needs to be 1.5% silver I beleive, such as
Kester 48. This wire is much stronger than standard wire of the same gage a
nd can carry more amperage. We are switching over to this wire now at work
and can save a fair amount of weight per aircraft.=0A=0AScott=0ARV-8a=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A--- On Sun, 3/1/09, Vanremog@aol.com <Vanremog@aol.com> wrote:
=0A=0A> From: Vanremog@aol.com <Vanremog@aol.com>=0A> Subject: Re: RV-List:
wiring question=0A> To: rv-list@matronics.com=0A> Date: Sunday, March 1, 2
009, 5:00 PM=0A> Scott-=0A> =0A> All you have stated is correct, particula
rly with regard to=0A> the reliability =0A> of crimping vs soldering on al
l wires, but there is also a =0A> significant =0A> difference between 7 str
and and 19 strand layup when it=0A> comes to needing to use =0A> lots of f
ine wires. This usually only happens when=0A> running lots of I/Os inside
=0A> avionics boxes but 19 strand is far more resistant to=0A> breakage t
han is 7 =0A> strand and should be encouraged when using 24AWG wires and
=0A> smaller.=0A> =0A> =0A> N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 912hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, S
ilicon =0A> Valley)=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> In a message dated 3/1/2009 2:57:0
8 P.M. Pacific Standard=0A> Time, =0A> rv8a2001@yahoo.com writes:=0A> =0A>
After soldering 26~28 gage wires you just touch them they=0A> break. We h
ave a =0A> connector at work with 28g and soldered! We tried to=0A> rework
it and the wires =0A> broke off about the 3rd time they were moved, it wa
s=0A> scrapped. I can get you =0A> all the mil spec numbers if it will hel
p and the part=0A> number of the new wire =0A> if you want it. Although th
e new wire must have silver in=0A> the solder. Oh and =0A> in the aviation
defense contractor industry, crimping is=0A> the way to go. =0A> =0A> =0A
> =0A> =0A> **************Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax=0A> pr
ofessional in your =0A> neighborhood today. =0A> (http://yellowpages.aol.co
m/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filing&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000
======================0A=0A=0A
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Slick Start Module |
Chuck Weyant wrote:
>
> Anyone got anything GOOD to say about a single impulse Slick mags for
> a IO540? That's what I'm going to be running.
Same here Chuck.
If you do your job, it's expected. Screw up once, however ......
applies to mags too!
You shouldn't have any problems (unless the AD applies!) and should
overhaul them at 500 hrs. The overhaul will really make a difference,
trust me.
Linn
do not archive
> Chuck
>
>> I've also used the Slick Start on my Lycoming O-360 for five plus
>> years and near 600 hours with a 17 AH RG battery, many "hot" starts,
>> a Skytec PM starter and B&C SD-8 PM alternator. I've never
>> experienced better overall performance and the elimination of an
>> impulse magneto feature is a very positive benefit.
>>
>> Jim McCulley
>> Wittman Tailwind
>> ===========================================================================================
>>
>>
>> Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>>> Hi Matt,
>>> We installed the Slick Start on our IO-360 (200hp) with a single
>>> gel cel battery behind the rear bagage compartment. I felt that the
>>> slick start contributed to a quick atart even if the engine was hot
>>> (using the hot start procedure). Always got a start. I would install
>>> another on my next RV.
>>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Mark Landoll starter bracket |
Louis Willig wrote:
>
> Hi gang,
>
> The bracket that holds the Mark Landoll Datson starter broke this
> week, and Mark has none in stock nor does he plan to make any soon.
> Does anyone have this bracket to sell ? I figure that some of you who
> have changed over to the skytech or B & C may have this item.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
Can you find a welder to repair it? If it's not repairable, here's a
link to plans for making your own. (I have no personal experience with
this; I just stumbled upon the link a while back.)
http://abianconi.hypermart.net/Starter-Adapter.html
Charlie
Message 9
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N14ZM is for sale. Contact me off list for details.
Danny Melnik
F1 N14ZM
Rocket Factory
Melbourne, FL
407-687-3126
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Mark Landoll starter bracket |
At 06:30 PM 3/2/2009, you wrote:
>
>Louis Willig wrote:
>>
>>Hi gang,
>>
>>The bracket that holds the Mark Landoll Datson starter broke this
>>week, and Mark has none in stock nor does he plan to make any soon.
>>Does anyone have this bracket to sell ? I figure that some of you
>>who have changed over to the skytech or B & C may have this item.
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Louis I Willig
>>610 668-4964
>>RV-4, N180PF
>
><Can you find a welder to repair it? If it's not repairable, here's
>a link to plans for making your own. (I have no personal experience
>with this; I just stumbled upon the link a while back.)>
Charlie England
Mark Landoll did, in fact, suggest that I weld the bracket back
together. The break is across an area that would require a precision
alignment. I'd rather get a replacement. HOWEVER, I'll just have to
jig it up as best as possible and bring it to TIG man. If it breaks
again, I'll get a Skytech.
Funny, every time I think I'm spending too much on my sweetheart RV,
I think of the days that I had a boat, or my ex-wife.
Thanks for your reply. I'll let you know what happens.
Louis
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