Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:09 PM - RV-8 with Grove Brake Reservoirs question (rv8builder)
2. 12:28 PM - Re: RV-8 with Grove Brake Reservoirs question (Matt Dralle)
3. 03:50 PM - RV-3 (David Lind)
4. 05:08 PM - on Fuel Pump (bert murillo)
5. 05:10 PM - diagram for two radios (bert murillo)
6. 07:06 PM - Re: on Fuel Pump (Ron Lee)
7. 07:26 PM - Re: on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?) (Denis Walsh)
8. 09:05 PM - Re: on Fuel Pump (Charlie England)
9. 10:17 PM - Re: on Fuel Pump (Skylor Piper)
Message 1
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Subject: | RV-8 with Grove Brake Reservoirs question |
I have a RV-8 under construction and have installed the Grove brake reservoir on
each brake master cylinder. It should be noted that I have the 'In-Flight'
adjustable rudder pedals. With the pedals at the full forward position, the brake
reservoirs do hit the firewall when the pedals are deflected. Has anyone
come up with a way to mount the Grove reservoirs in this situation with out the
reservoir hitting the firewall? Or do I have to just bit the bullet and install
the leaky nylon tubing!
Thanks in advance,
Dale
--------
Dale
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234561#234561
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: RV-8 with Grove Brake Reservoirs question |
At 12:07 PM 3/14/2009 Saturday, rv8builder wrote:
>
>I have a RV-8 under construction and have installed the Grove brake reservoir
on each brake master cylinder. It should be noted that I have the 'In-Flight'
adjustable rudder pedals. With the pedals at the full forward position, the
brake reservoirs do hit the firewall when the pedals are deflected. Has anyone
come up with a way to mount the Grove reservoirs in this situation with out
the reservoir hitting the firewall? Or do I have to just bit the bullet and install
the leaky nylon tubing!
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Dale
>
>--------
>Dale
Hey Dale,
I grappled with the same issues. Here's what I ended up doing. It think its going
to work out pretty well.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=67091&row=69
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=67025&row=46
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=67026&row=45
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 / N998RV (res)
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 3
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Anyone with a flying RV-3 near Quincy, Ca? (ID 2O1, Plumas County).
Please call Dave at (530) 284-1433
Message 4
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Hi:
My fuel pump is getting harder to turn.. Have the original that came
with the kit from Van's, for my rv6a.
I hate to think I have to buy a new one... does any one know a way to
loosing it up? Oil? I see posting for new pums, they call the
Alder I believe... the price too much for me..
Then what happen, you have to change all the lines, or it would be
same as the one from Van's? I do not want to have to
change anything on the fuel lines...
Suggtestions or info., will be appreciate it....lMaybe the best is to
buy one again from Van's no? it did not last four years.....
Bert
rv6a
do not archive
Message 5
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Subject: | diagram for two radios |
HI
I have asked this before, I am installing a second radio, but the
drawing I have, l does not show connections, when you have an
Intercom... I have panel installed "Soft Com" unit.
Does any one have the wiring diagram for this? As I said I have
the wiring drawing for two radios, but does not show how it will
be when one have radio connected to Intercom..
I will appreciate any help on this
bert
rav6a
do not archive
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Subject: | Re: on Fuel Pump |
Do you mean fuel SELECTOR?
Ron Lee
>
> My fuel pump is getting harder to turn.. Have the original that came
> with the kit from Van's, for my rv6a.
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?) |
If you are referring to the fuel selector valve, here is my 2c worht:
Some where over the years, Van's changed the fuel selector. It still
looks and operates the same; however it has a nylon inside part that
does not seize up like the older models. If you buy a new one it
should be an easy replacement, and they are no where near as expensive
as the Andair. I greatly admire the Andair. It is a beautiful piece
of equipment, but the cheap one I have does just fine.
My 12-14 year old valve still works fine. It has the plastic guts in
it. (It has been exercised pretty regularly since I fly more than
most.) On the other hand I don't change tanks very often, either.
Denis 1997 RV-6A.
2300 hours now, and just put the 9th set of tires on it.
On Mar 14, 2009, at 6:05 , bert murillo wrote:
>
> Hi:
>
> My fuel pump is getting harder to turn.. Have the original that came
> with the kit from Van's, for my rv6a.
>
> I hate to think I have to buy a new one... does any one know a way to
> loosing it up? Oil? I see posting for new pums, they call the
> Alder I believe... the price too much for me..
>
> Then what happen, you have to change all the lines, or it would be
> same as the one from Van's? I do not want to have to
> change anything on the fuel lines...
>
> Suggtestions or info., will be appreciate it....lMaybe the best is to
> buy one again from Van's no? it did not last four years.....
>
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: on Fuel Pump |
bert murillo wrote:
>
> Hi:
>
> My fuel pump is getting harder to turn.. Have the original that came
> with the kit from Van's, for my rv6a.
>
> I hate to think I have to buy a new one... does any one know a way to
> loosing it up? Oil? I see posting for new pums, they call the
> Alder I believe... the price too much for me..
>
> Then what happen, you have to change all the lines, or it would be
> same as the one from Van's? I do not want to have to
> change anything on the fuel lines...
>
> Suggtestions or info., will be appreciate it....lMaybe the best is to
> buy one again from Van's no? it did not last four years.....
>
>
> Bert
>
If you mean the fuel selector, & you don't want to switch to the new
nylon core version, try adding some 'fuel lube' or the currently
available replacement for it.
You might find that if you pull the core from the one you have, there
will be enough fuel lube left in the valve (below the actual tapered
surfaces) to re-coat the tapered portion. It doesn't take much.
I don't know if this would work for a -6A, but on my -4 I discovered
that with less than 1/2 fuel in the tanks I could remove the valve core
without draining the tanks.
Charlie
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: on Fuel Pump |
If you're referring to the fuel selector valve:
Buy a new one from Van's for $48.- There have been some RV accidents caus
ed by the old style valves seizing up mid-position, or the selector handle
stripping free because of the stiffness in the valve.- I recall that in a
t least one of these accidents, the owner was well aware of the fact that t
he valve had become tight over time, yet continued to fly the plane.- DON
'T MESS AROUND!!! GROUND THE PLANE UNTIL YOU REPLACE THE VALVE.- IT'S NOT
WORTH THE RISK!!!
Skylor
RV-8 Under Construction
--- On Sat, 3/14/09, Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net> wrote:
From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: on Fuel Pump
<ceengland@bellsouth.net>
bert murillo wrote:
>
> Hi:
>
> My fuel pump is getting harder to turn.. Have the original that came
> with the kit from Van's, for my rv6a.
>
> I hate to think I have to buy a new one... does any one know a way to
> loosing it up? Oil? I see posting for new pums, they call the
> Alder I believe... the price too much for me..
>
> Then what happen, you have to change all the lines, or it would be
> same as the one from Van's? I do not want to have to
> change anything on the fuel lines...
>
> Suggtestions or info., will be appreciate it....lMaybe the best is to
> buy one again from Van's no? it did not last four years.....
>
>
> Bert
>
If you mean the fuel selector, & you don't want to switch to the new
nylon core version, try adding some 'fuel lube' or the currently
available replacement for it.
You might find that if you pull the core from the one you have, there
will be enough fuel lube left in the valve (below the actual tapered
surfaces) to re-coat the tapered portion. It doesn't take much.
I don't know if this would work for a -6A, but on my -4 I discovered
that with less than 1/2 fuel in the tanks I could remove the valve core
without draining the tanks.
Charlie
=0A=0A=0A
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