Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:17 PM - bolting wings on RV-6A (thomas sargent)
2. 05:36 PM - Re: bolting wings on RV-6A (Charlie England)
3. 05:45 PM - Re: bolting wings on RV-6A (Jeff Orear)
4. 05:50 PM - Re: bolting wings on RV-6A (thomas sargent)
5. 06:37 PM - Using Rivet Gun: bolting wings on RV-6A (Ed Anderson)
6. 07:14 PM - Re: bolting wings on RV-6A (John Cox)
7. 07:17 PM - Nose wheel shimmy (Knicholas2@aol.com)
8. 07:58 PM - Re: Nose wheel shimmy (Ron Lee)
9. 08:08 PM - Re: Nose wheel shimmy (Carl Froehlich)
10. 08:23 PM - Re: bolting wings on RV-6A (bert murillo)
Message 1
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Subject: | bolting wings on RV-6A |
I am bolting on the wings for the last time - the electrical system is
done, the engine installed, the fiberglass done and it's even all
painted. I just have to screw it all together, take care of 100
little things and it will fly.
The left gear weldment has about 75% of the bolts in (no nuts on
them) and the rest of the holes in the weldment have locator pins in
place EXCEPT for the two outboard AN3 bolts at the lower edge - right
where the gear leg penetrates the fuselage. These are the most
inaccessible holes. Inserting bolts in these holes from the aft side
of the spar go thru pretty easily and stop hard at the weldment. The
misalignment isn't real obvious, but I can't get the bolts thru or
even drive a tapered pin thru. So, I guess those holes in the
weldment need to be enlarged very slightly.
I could take all the bolts and pins out, remove the weldment and
slightly enlarge or elongate those 2 holes in the weldment and then re-
install. I hate to do all that over again. I noticed that a 3/16
drill bit will slide thru the holes in the spar easily. With a right
angle drill I could just drill out those holes in the weldment. Is
this an acceptable practice, or is it too likely to damage the holes
in the aluminum spar? Or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely?
--
Almost There....
RV-6A N811WT
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: bolting wings on RV-6A |
thomas sargent wrote:
>
> I am bolting on the wings for the last time - the electrical system is
> done, the engine installed, the fiberglass done and it's even all
> painted. I just have to screw it all together, take care of 100
> little things and it will fly.
>
> The left gear weldment has about 75% of the bolts in (no nuts on
> them) and the rest of the holes in the weldment have locator pins in
> place EXCEPT for the two outboard AN3 bolts at the lower edge - right
> where the gear leg penetrates the fuselage. These are the most
> inaccessible holes. Inserting bolts in these holes from the aft side
> of the spar go thru pretty easily and stop hard at the weldment. The
> misalignment isn't real obvious, but I can't get the bolts thru or
> even drive a tapered pin thru. So, I guess those holes in the
> weldment need to be enlarged very slightly.
>
> I could take all the bolts and pins out, remove the weldment and
> slightly enlarge or elongate those 2 holes in the weldment and then
> re-install. I hate to do all that over again. I noticed that a 3/16
> drill bit will slide thru the holes in the spar easily. With a right
> angle drill I could just drill out those holes in the weldment. Is
> this an acceptable practice, or is it too likely to damage the holes
> in the aluminum spar? Or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely?
>
> --
> Almost There....
> RV-6A N811WT
Call Van's.
or
Can you get them in by turning them while putting some pressure on them
to start through the weldment?
or
Call Van's.
(hint, hint)
Charlie
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: bolting wings on RV-6A |
I had similar trouble. I just carefully used a reamer and all was
well. Congrats on getting things buttoned up!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
On Apr 4, 2009, at 7:13 PM, thomas sargent wrote:
>
> I am bolting on the wings for the last time - the electrical system
> is done, the engine installed, the fiberglass done and it's even all
> painted. I just have to screw it all together, take care of 100
> little things and it will fly.
>
> The left gear weldment has about 75% of the bolts in (no nuts on
> them) and the rest of the holes in the weldment have locator pins
> in place EXCEPT for the two outboard AN3 bolts at the lower edge -
> right where the gear leg penetrates the fuselage. These are the
> most inaccessible holes. Inserting bolts in these holes from the
> aft side of the spar go thru pretty easily and stop hard at the
> weldment. The misalignment isn't real obvious, but I can't get the
> bolts thru or even drive a tapered pin thru. So, I guess those
> holes in the weldment need to be enlarged very slightly.
>
> I could take all the bolts and pins out, remove the weldment and
> slightly enlarge or elongate those 2 holes in the weldment and then
> re-install. I hate to do all that over again. I noticed that a
> 3/16 drill bit will slide thru the holes in the spar easily. With a
> right angle drill I could just drill out those holes in the
> weldment. Is this an acceptable practice, or is it too likely to
> damage the holes in the aluminum spar? Or am I barking up the wrong
> tree entirely?
>
> --
> Almost There....
> RV-6A N811WT
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: bolting wings on RV-6A |
Charlie:
Yes, of course, but I can't call Van's until Monday. I Tried what you
suggest about applying pressure while turning, but couldn't make it
work.
>
> Call Van's.
> or
> Can you get them in by turning them while putting some pressure on
> them to start through the weldment?
> or
> Call Van's.
> (hint, hint)
>
> Charlie
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | bolting wings on RV-6A |
Thomas, when I encountered a similar problem, I took my rivet gun and put
the pressure on about 40 psi and put a flat head on it. I found that the
small amplitude, but high frequency vibration worked the bolts through very
easily. Might give it a try.
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
http://www.andersonee.com
http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
http://www.flyrotary.com/
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/Rotorhead%20Truth.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: bolting wings on RV-6A
Charlie:
Yes, of course, but I can't call Van's until Monday. I Tried what you
suggest about applying pressure while turning, but couldn't make it
work.
>
> Call Van's.
> or
> Can you get them in by turning them while putting some pressure on
> them to start through the weldment?
> or
> Call Van's.
> (hint, hint)
>
> Charlie
>
>
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Message 6
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Subject: | bolting wings on RV-6A |
Use a brass (never steel) drift against the bolt shaft to remove
it/them. Heat the receiver to 200-250 degrees using a Heat/Shrink gun
for about 20 minutes prior to REINSERTION. Place the attachment bolts
in a plastic sandwich bag inside a small six pack cooler with industrial
grade dry ice for at least four hours. The attachment is a "Close
Tolerance" fit. We use liquid nitrogen at work, but unless your girl
friend works for a dermatology clinic on Sunday that will be a stretch
for most builders. Our heat gun can do a constant 950degrees and
beyond. Don't know the wattage of Harbor Freight units.
Patience is a virtue. Good Luck. If they do not go in with less force
you will begin galling of the fastener shaft, scoring and removal of the
cadmium plating. It is easy to read attachment bolts that have been
force fitted during Tech Inspections. Hopefully you used a ream of the
correct size to prep the receiver.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: bolting wings on RV-6A
Charlie:
Yes, of course, but I can't call Van's until Monday. I Tried what you
suggest about applying pressure while turning, but couldn't make it
work.
>
> Call Van's.
> or
> Can you get them in by turning them while putting some pressure on
> them to start through the weldment?
> or
> Call Van's.
> (hint, hint)
>
> Charlie
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Nose wheel shimmy |
I know this has been discussed in the archives, but I need some help.
This winter I replace the nose wheel fork on my RV9A per Van's service
bulletin. Since the install, I have a bad nose wheel shimmy on landing. I have
tried various torque settings on the axel, different tire pressures and
varied the break-out pressure on the nose wheel "pivot". I still get the shimmy
on landing - note that it does not occur on takeoff, and I have
intentionally allowed my take off speed on the runway to exceed my landing speed.
On
take off it does not shimmy, only on landing.
Does anyone have any helpful ideas? I feel like the nose wheel is going to
shake right off of the plane, and it is no fun.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA
**************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a
recession.
(http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003)
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
Have you verified that the tire is balanced and not out of round?
Have someone competent observe the tire upon landing. The
difference between shimmy and out of round/out of balance is
obvious.
Ron Lee
Message 9
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Subject: | Nose wheel shimmy |
You may want to use the Matco axle for the nose gear. That way you can
pre-load the bearings just enough - letting the wheel spin easily, but still
fully torque the axle nut.
Here is the link
http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
Get the wheel balance weights from them as well.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (450 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Knicholas2@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 10:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy
I know this has been discussed in the archives, but I need some help.
This winter I replace the nose wheel fork on my RV9A per Van's service
bulletin. Since the install, I have a bad nose wheel shimmy on landing. I
have tried various torque settings on the axel, different tire pressures
and varied the break-out pressure on the nose wheel "pivot". I still get
the shimmy on landing - note that it does not occur on takeoff, and I have
intentionally allowed my take off speed on the runway to exceed my landing
speed. On take off it does not shimmy, only on landing.
Does anyone have any helpful ideas? I feel like the nose wheel is going to
shake right off of the plane, and it is no fun.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA
_____
Worried about job security? Check
<http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare0000000
3> out the 5 safest jobs in a recession.
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: bolting wings on RV-6A |
Thomas:
I do not recall, when I built mine, that I could not draw the bolts
in...I know they are very\
tight, but as you they are all close tolerance bolts for ovious reasons...
I would \ not enlarge any holes, I suggest calling Vans, and get a
second opinion, before
going forward,,.
If I recalled, I think I use a heavy, long piece of wood, cut
specifically to fit thru the space,
and then with a heavy hammer, I was able insert the bolts completely,
but I am doing this
by memory, after 6 years....of course they have to be perfectly
aligned, a very little dab of
vaseline, only on thefirst thre or four threads, would help, be sure
to clean them after, before
the nut...
Hope give you some ideas.
good luck.
bert
rv6a
do noat archive
On Sat, Apr 4, 2009 at 8:13 PM, thomas sargent <sarg314@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I am bolting on the wings for the last time - the electrical system is done,
> the engine installed, the fiberglass done and it's even all painted. I just
> have to screw it all together, take care of 100 little things and it will
> fly.
>
> The left gear weldment has about 75% of the bolts in (no nuts on them) and
> the rest of the holes in the weldment have locator pins in place EXCEPT for
> the two outboard AN3 bolts at the lower edge - right where the gear leg
> penetrates the fuselage. These are the most inaccessible holes. Inserting
> bolts in these holes from the aft side of the spar go thru pretty easily and
> stop hard at the weldment. The misalignment isn't real obvious, but I can't
> get the bolts thru or even drive a tapered pin thru. So, I guess those
> holes in the weldment need to be enlarged very slightly.
>
> I could take all the bolts and pins out, remove the weldment and slightly
> enlarge or elongate those 2 holes in the weldment and then re-install. I
> hate to do all that over again. I noticed that a 3/16 drill bit will slide
> thru the holes in the spar easily. With a right angle drill I could just
> drill out those holes in the weldment. Is this an acceptable practice, or
> is it too likely to damage the holes in the aluminum spar? Or am I barking
> up the wrong tree entirely?
>
> --
> Almost There....
> RV-6A N811WT
>
>
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