---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 04/04/09: 10 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:17 PM - bolting wings on RV-6A (thomas sargent) 2. 05:36 PM - Re: bolting wings on RV-6A (Charlie England) 3. 05:45 PM - Re: bolting wings on RV-6A (Jeff Orear) 4. 05:50 PM - Re: bolting wings on RV-6A (thomas sargent) 5. 06:37 PM - Using Rivet Gun: bolting wings on RV-6A (Ed Anderson) 6. 07:14 PM - Re: bolting wings on RV-6A (John Cox) 7. 07:17 PM - Nose wheel shimmy (Knicholas2@aol.com) 8. 07:58 PM - Re: Nose wheel shimmy (Ron Lee) 9. 08:08 PM - Re: Nose wheel shimmy (Carl Froehlich) 10. 08:23 PM - Re: bolting wings on RV-6A (bert murillo) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:17:29 PM PST US From: thomas sargent Subject: RV-List: bolting wings on RV-6A I am bolting on the wings for the last time - the electrical system is done, the engine installed, the fiberglass done and it's even all painted. I just have to screw it all together, take care of 100 little things and it will fly. The left gear weldment has about 75% of the bolts in (no nuts on them) and the rest of the holes in the weldment have locator pins in place EXCEPT for the two outboard AN3 bolts at the lower edge - right where the gear leg penetrates the fuselage. These are the most inaccessible holes. Inserting bolts in these holes from the aft side of the spar go thru pretty easily and stop hard at the weldment. The misalignment isn't real obvious, but I can't get the bolts thru or even drive a tapered pin thru. So, I guess those holes in the weldment need to be enlarged very slightly. I could take all the bolts and pins out, remove the weldment and slightly enlarge or elongate those 2 holes in the weldment and then re- install. I hate to do all that over again. I noticed that a 3/16 drill bit will slide thru the holes in the spar easily. With a right angle drill I could just drill out those holes in the weldment. Is this an acceptable practice, or is it too likely to damage the holes in the aluminum spar? Or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely? -- Almost There.... RV-6A N811WT ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:36:01 PM PST US From: Charlie England Subject: Re: RV-List: bolting wings on RV-6A thomas sargent wrote: > > I am bolting on the wings for the last time - the electrical system is > done, the engine installed, the fiberglass done and it's even all > painted. I just have to screw it all together, take care of 100 > little things and it will fly. > > The left gear weldment has about 75% of the bolts in (no nuts on > them) and the rest of the holes in the weldment have locator pins in > place EXCEPT for the two outboard AN3 bolts at the lower edge - right > where the gear leg penetrates the fuselage. These are the most > inaccessible holes. Inserting bolts in these holes from the aft side > of the spar go thru pretty easily and stop hard at the weldment. The > misalignment isn't real obvious, but I can't get the bolts thru or > even drive a tapered pin thru. So, I guess those holes in the > weldment need to be enlarged very slightly. > > I could take all the bolts and pins out, remove the weldment and > slightly enlarge or elongate those 2 holes in the weldment and then > re-install. I hate to do all that over again. I noticed that a 3/16 > drill bit will slide thru the holes in the spar easily. With a right > angle drill I could just drill out those holes in the weldment. Is > this an acceptable practice, or is it too likely to damage the holes > in the aluminum spar? Or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely? > > -- > Almost There.... > RV-6A N811WT Call Van's. or Can you get them in by turning them while putting some pressure on them to start through the weldment? or Call Van's. (hint, hint) Charlie ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:45:00 PM PST US From: Jeff Orear Subject: Re: RV-List: bolting wings on RV-6A I had similar trouble. I just carefully used a reamer and all was well. Congrats on getting things buttoned up! Regards, Jeff Orear RV6A N782P On Apr 4, 2009, at 7:13 PM, thomas sargent wrote: > > I am bolting on the wings for the last time - the electrical system > is done, the engine installed, the fiberglass done and it's even all > painted. I just have to screw it all together, take care of 100 > little things and it will fly. > > The left gear weldment has about 75% of the bolts in (no nuts on > them) and the rest of the holes in the weldment have locator pins > in place EXCEPT for the two outboard AN3 bolts at the lower edge - > right where the gear leg penetrates the fuselage. These are the > most inaccessible holes. Inserting bolts in these holes from the > aft side of the spar go thru pretty easily and stop hard at the > weldment. The misalignment isn't real obvious, but I can't get the > bolts thru or even drive a tapered pin thru. So, I guess those > holes in the weldment need to be enlarged very slightly. > > I could take all the bolts and pins out, remove the weldment and > slightly enlarge or elongate those 2 holes in the weldment and then > re-install. I hate to do all that over again. I noticed that a > 3/16 drill bit will slide thru the holes in the spar easily. With a > right angle drill I could just drill out those holes in the > weldment. Is this an acceptable practice, or is it too likely to > damage the holes in the aluminum spar? Or am I barking up the wrong > tree entirely? > > -- > Almost There.... > RV-6A N811WT > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:50:17 PM PST US From: thomas sargent Subject: Re: RV-List: bolting wings on RV-6A Charlie: Yes, of course, but I can't call Van's until Monday. I Tried what you suggest about applying pressure while turning, but couldn't make it work. > > Call Van's. > or > Can you get them in by turning them while putting some pressure on > them to start through the weldment? > or > Call Van's. > (hint, hint) > > Charlie > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:37:57 PM PST US From: "Ed Anderson" Subject: Using Rivet Gun: RV-List: bolting wings on RV-6A Thomas, when I encountered a similar problem, I took my rivet gun and put the pressure on about 40 psi and put a flat head on it. I found that the small amplitude, but high frequency vibration worked the bolts through very easily. Might give it a try. Ed Ed Anderson Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered Matthews, NC eanderson@carolina.rr.com http://www.andersonee.com http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html http://www.flyrotary.com/ http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW http://www.rotaryaviation.com/Rotorhead%20Truth.htm -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 8:46 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: bolting wings on RV-6A Charlie: Yes, of course, but I can't call Van's until Monday. I Tried what you suggest about applying pressure while turning, but couldn't make it work. > > Call Van's. > or > Can you get them in by turning them while putting some pressure on > them to start through the weldment? > or > Call Van's. > (hint, hint) > > Charlie > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3267 (20080714) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3267 (20080714) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:14:13 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: bolting wings on RV-6A From: "John Cox" Use a brass (never steel) drift against the bolt shaft to remove it/them. Heat the receiver to 200-250 degrees using a Heat/Shrink gun for about 20 minutes prior to REINSERTION. Place the attachment bolts in a plastic sandwich bag inside a small six pack cooler with industrial grade dry ice for at least four hours. The attachment is a "Close Tolerance" fit. We use liquid nitrogen at work, but unless your girl friend works for a dermatology clinic on Sunday that will be a stretch for most builders. Our heat gun can do a constant 950degrees and beyond. Don't know the wattage of Harbor Freight units. Patience is a virtue. Good Luck. If they do not go in with less force you will begin galling of the fastener shaft, scoring and removal of the cadmium plating. It is easy to read attachment bolts that have been force fitted during Tech Inspections. Hopefully you used a ream of the correct size to prep the receiver. John Cox -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 5:46 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: bolting wings on RV-6A Charlie: Yes, of course, but I can't call Van's until Monday. I Tried what you suggest about applying pressure while turning, but couldn't make it work. > > Call Van's. > or > Can you get them in by turning them while putting some pressure on > them to start through the weldment? > or > Call Van's. > (hint, hint) > > Charlie > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:17:50 PM PST US From: Knicholas2@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy I know this has been discussed in the archives, but I need some help. This winter I replace the nose wheel fork on my RV9A per Van's service bulletin. Since the install, I have a bad nose wheel shimmy on landing. I have tried various torque settings on the axel, different tire pressures and varied the break-out pressure on the nose wheel "pivot". I still get the shimmy on landing - note that it does not occur on takeoff, and I have intentionally allowed my take off speed on the runway to exceed my landing speed. On take off it does not shimmy, only on landing. Does anyone have any helpful ideas? I feel like the nose wheel is going to shake right off of the plane, and it is no fun. Kim Nicholas RV9A Auburn, WA **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003) ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:58:42 PM PST US From: "Ron Lee" Subject: Re: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy Have you verified that the tire is balanced and not out of round? Have someone competent observe the tire upon landing. The difference between shimmy and out of round/out of balance is obvious. Ron Lee ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:08:02 PM PST US From: "Carl Froehlich" Subject: RE: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy You may want to use the Matco axle for the nose gear. That way you can pre-load the bearings just enough - letting the wheel spin easily, but still fully torque the axle nut. Here is the link http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html Get the wheel balance weights from them as well. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hrs) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Knicholas2@aol.com Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 10:17 PM Subject: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy I know this has been discussed in the archives, but I need some help. This winter I replace the nose wheel fork on my RV9A per Van's service bulletin. Since the install, I have a bad nose wheel shimmy on landing. I have tried various torque settings on the axel, different tire pressures and varied the break-out pressure on the nose wheel "pivot". I still get the shimmy on landing - note that it does not occur on takeoff, and I have intentionally allowed my take off speed on the runway to exceed my landing speed. On take off it does not shimmy, only on landing. Does anyone have any helpful ideas? I feel like the nose wheel is going to shake right off of the plane, and it is no fun. Kim Nicholas RV9A Auburn, WA _____ Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:23:55 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: bolting wings on RV-6A From: bert murillo Thomas: I do not recall, when I built mine, that I could not draw the bolts in...I know they are very\ tight, but as you they are all close tolerance bolts for ovious reasons... I would \ not enlarge any holes, I suggest calling Vans, and get a second opinion, before going forward,,. If I recalled, I think I use a heavy, long piece of wood, cut specifically to fit thru the space, and then with a heavy hammer, I was able insert the bolts completely, but I am doing this by memory, after 6 years....of course they have to be perfectly aligned, a very little dab of vaseline, only on thefirst thre or four threads, would help, be sure to clean them after, before the nut... Hope give you some ideas. good luck. bert rv6a do noat archive On Sat, Apr 4, 2009 at 8:13 PM, thomas sargent wrote: > > I am bolting on the wings for the last time - the electrical system is done, > the engine installed, the fiberglass done and it's even all painted. I just > have to screw it all together, take care of 100 little things and it will > fly. > > The left gear weldment has about 75% of the bolts in (no nuts on them) and > the rest of the holes in the weldment have locator pins in place EXCEPT for > the two outboard AN3 bolts at the lower edge - right where the gear leg > penetrates the fuselage. These are the most inaccessible holes. Inserting > bolts in these holes from the aft side of the spar go thru pretty easily and > stop hard at the weldment. The misalignment isn't real obvious, but I can't > get the bolts thru or even drive a tapered pin thru. So, I guess those > holes in the weldment need to be enlarged very slightly. > > I could take all the bolts and pins out, remove the weldment and slightly > enlarge or elongate those 2 holes in the weldment and then re-install. I > hate to do all that over again. I noticed that a 3/16 drill bit will slide > thru the holes in the spar easily. With a right angle drill I could just > drill out those holes in the weldment. Is this an acceptable practice, or > is it too likely to damage the holes in the aluminum spar? Or am I barking > up the wrong tree entirely? > > -- > Almost There.... > RV-6A N811WT > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.