Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:20 AM - Re: wing root bolt interference (Chris Hand)
2. 07:06 AM - Where is the fun in straight and level? (Ron Lee)
3. 08:03 AM - Re: wing root bolt interference ()
4. 09:12 AM - What Ignition to buy? (J Riffel)
5. 02:57 PM - RV-7A Transition Training in IL, Wis (Donald Harker)
6. 09:07 PM - Re: RV-7A Transition Training in IL, Wis (John Danielson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: wing root bolt interference |
Tom,
Mine wasn't a quick build but if I recall correctly, those ribs were
notched top and bottom to allow room for the bolt. I don't have
pictures with me that show the top bolts but if you look closely at the
pictures on my web site, you can see where the notch at the bottom of
the rib allowed room and I believe it was the same at the top of the
spar:
http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/panelAndElectrical/electrical/electricalPg7
.htm
You can see in the pictures that I installed most of the bolts with nut
on forward side (was easier for me to torque properly and I expect
easier to check torque later) but where those ribs interfered, I went
the other way around because I couldn't get the bolt in straight from
the back. I think it was just the center two floor ribs I had that
problem with.
Chris
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 10:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: wing root bolt interference
I am bolting on the right wing on an RV-6A quick build for final
assembly. The second NAS 3/8" close tolerance bolt out from the center
on the top will hit hit a floor rib. I slipped a hardware store bolt in
there and it has about 3/16" clearance between the forward edge of the
floor rib and the aft surface of the steel splice plate. Am I supposed
to install this bolt backwards or chop away the offending portion of the
rib?
Even if I install the bolt with head aft instead of forward, it would
be very difficult and probably do a lot of violence to the rib. The
edge of the rib isn't squarely aligned with the bolt center, but it's
pretty close.
The rib would have had to be installed about 1/2" further outboard to
not be an issue. I could chop out the offending portion of the rib and
then rivet in a patch later. What do they expect me to do here?
--
Tom Sargent
Message 2
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| Subject: | Where is the fun in straight and level? |
> Where is the fun in Straight and Level?? :-)
>
> GummiBear
> Upside down on almost every flight.
> Harmon Rocket II - N561FS
Bahamas, Key West, swim with manatees, Page AZ, Devil's Tower,
Mount Rushmore, Catalina Island, Yosemite, Carlsbad Caverns,
Meteor Crater, Monument Valley, Death Valley, Saguaro NP, plus
many more.....all without going upside down.
Ron Lee
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: wing root bolt interference |
I remember having to drill a hole in the F699 bracket to allow access for a wrench
and the bolt itself and I may have shortened that angle alum rib just in front
of the spar to allow the bolt to fit and I may have even ground off part
of the head of the bolt that faced the rib, but the plane is at the hangar so
i can't check.
Ron Burnett
RV-6A finishing
H-4 Eggenfellner Subaru
St. Charles, MO
---- thomas sargent <sarg314@gmail.com> wrote:
============
I am bolting on the right wing on an RV-6A quick build for final assembly.
The second NAS 3/8" close tolerance bolt out from the center on the top
will hit hit a floor rib. I slipped a hardware store bolt in there and it
has about 3/16" clearance between the forward edge of the floor rib and the
aft surface of the steel splice plate. Am I supposed to install this bolt
backwards or chop away the offending portion of the rib?
Even if I install the bolt with head aft instead of forward, it would be
very difficult and probably do a lot of violence to the rib. The edge of
the rib isn't squarely aligned with the bolt center, but it's pretty close.
The rib would have had to be installed about 1/2" further outboard to not be
an issue. I could chop out the offending portion of the rib and then rivet
in a patch later. What do they expect me to do here?
--
Tom Sargent
Message 4
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| Subject: | What Ignition to buy? |
I flew my RV7A for the 1st time 12/12/08 (after 4 yrs) and have about 55 hrs
on it. I chose a AeroSport IO-360 and decided on 2 PMags for ignition. I
also have an old '65 Mooney w/ Slicks (for comparison).
I chose the PMags because:
1. It's electronic ignition - which I believe delivers better ignition than
mags
2. The "P"mag version eliminates the need for a backup
battery/generator/alternator
a. I put 2 PMags on for redundancy (for the engine to stop all of the
following would have to fail: alternator, battery, and BOTH internal PMag
generators - which was good enough for me)
3. They allow me to use $2 auto plugs vs $20 aviation plugs (required their
inserts/harness at reasonable extra charge)
4. The timing process takes less than 20 seconds and requires no equipment
(you turn on power, set #1 on TDC and blow in the vacuum line a couple
times) (My FAVORITE BENEFIT after timing my Mooney Mags)
a. A friend had another electronic ignition that failed on an Alaska trip
and had to call back to Texas and get his special timing box sent.
5. There is no tricky mounting (just bolt them on where the mags go) in any
orientation.
6. They deliver a tachometer signal for my GrandRapids EIS
7. Because they don't have wear issues, the long term maintenance issues
seem small (if there are any)
8. They're priced competitively
Issues:
1. None- they started right up the 1st time and have run flawlessly.
Concerns:
1. They're experimental so we might be working thru problems together
a. Their approach/concept seemed like a 'better idea' to me than their
competitors
b. I met the folks at OSH and visited their shop here in Texas and felt I
could trust/work with them; besides the benefits seem to outweigh the
concern (for me)
c. I've gone thru a sofware update (before 1st start) and the magnet
attachment change (at about 10 hrs). They were great during the process.
2. They've had some issues on the software side and hardware side
a. They've been open about problems and addressed them quickly - and seem
to have been stable for quite a while
3. The process to hand-prop the engine is a little clumsy - but I haven't
spent enough time thinking about how to address it (I had a battery go
down/out during my fly off hours - thank goodness a friend was able to fly a
battery and tools to me - BTW: Carry Tools!) I'll probably talk to them at
OSH this year
4. My engine temps have been on the high side so I changed them to use the
alternate internal "curve" (put a jumper on 2 terminals) - and I'm not sure
what I believe yet whether the PMags, new engine or both are affecting temps
... or whether it's an issue
5. Not really a Concern, but I'm not that fond of the plug on the unit that
you put wires into. It works fine - but I'm not sure what the long-term
vibration will do to the wires at the plug.
You'll probably want to read the posts on Matronics and VansAirforce about
ignitions - and Pmags. Some aren't happy.
I am.
"Jerry"
Message 5
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| Subject: | RV-7A Transition Training in IL, Wis |
Looking for 5 hours transition training in a "A" model RV to meet insurance
company requirements
Anybody know of anybody local to northern Illinois, southern Wisconsin
Thanks
Don Harker
N767DH
Message 6
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| Subject: | RV-7A Transition Training in IL, Wis |
Check out Tom Irlbek, Minnesota RV builders group.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Harker
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 2:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-7A Transition Training in IL, Wis
<dpharker@worldnet.att.net>
Looking for 5 hours transition training in a "A" model RV to meet
insurance
company requirements
Anybody know of anybody local to northern Illinois, southern Wisconsin
Thanks
Don Harker
N767DH
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