Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:11 AM - Re: RV-8 Side Consoles (Rick Galati)
2. 06:40 AM - Re: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge (Charles Kuss)
3. 08:35 AM - Antenna Mounting (Jerald King)
4. 12:33 PM - Re: RV-8 Side Consoles (Matt Dralle)
5. 07:18 PM - Re: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge (leschampmd@aol.com)
6. 07:44 PM - Re: Re: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge (Charlie England)
7. 09:13 PM - Re: Re: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge (Karl Ahamer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Side Consoles |
-
I decided to concentrate many of the electrical circuits into an enclosed
-right side console on my RV-8. -I incorporated-various ideas-from
other RV builders and was also-inspired by military aircraft configuratio
ns. The result was-a modification that is my personal effort-designed i
n part to free up some precious real estate space on the instrument panel b
ut I was also interested in cosmetic appeal.-I made the right side consol
e-hinged for improved open access.- It contains almost all the circuit
breakers and key switch functions such as-boost pump and various light ci
rcuits.- The console also includes the ELT remote indicator, intercom and
Hobbs meter.- In addition,-I mounted the flap relay deck-and a termi
nal board for use with the-pilot and passenger Infinity joystick grips-
behind the console using dimpled screw holes through the side skin to attac
h the components.-Also hidden from view behind the console-is the MK-11
1 speed
controller for the-elevator trim and the relay for the-aileron trim fu
nction.- I mounted those components on the gear tower.- I am pleased wi
th the way it-all turned out.
-
[IMG]http://i39.tinypic.com/33pdlkn.jpg[/IMG]
-
-
-
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge |
Bill,
I found that doing this job per Vans instructions to be pure idiocy! It's impossible
for anyone (I'm 6'4" with long arms) to be able to accurately buck the
rivets for the ribs in the center. I decided to use a different method. I back
riveted these rivets in. I fabricated a special, heavy bucking bar for this.
This tool was designed to solve a difficult riveting problem on RV-7, RV-8/A
& RV-9A models. On these models, the leading edge assembly is built in a cradle.
It is then attached to the wing main spar by riveting the skins and rear flanges
of the ribs to the main spar. Setting the 1/8" rivets between the inner
L/E ribs and the main spar is extremely difficult to do well. I solved this by
fabricating a large "Tim Allen" bucking bar. With this bar, these rivets can
be "back riveted" in place.
I inserted the rivets from the front (top as viewed in the jig) to the rear
of the wing cord. This is opposite of how Van has you set these rivets. I placed
the "Tim Allen" bucking bar with the 1/8" universal set on top of the rivet.
I then pressed down on the bucking bar. Fellow RV builder Eric Hensen set the
shop heads from below (the rear) using the Avery back riveting set (part #
4580)
Since making this tool (about half an hour with a band saw and drill press) I've
found numerous other areas to use it on my 8A. It is basically a piece of
cold rolled steel 2" X 2" X 5" with 3 holes to insert your universal rivet sets
in. I placed the holes so that I could move the rivet set around. This makes
it easier to use the tool to set the end rivets on the leading edge ribs. I did
cut a slight notch in the bar so that it would clear the "flange" around the
lightening holes in the ribs. This notch allows me to hold the bar perfectly
parallel to the rib web while using it.
These 3 holes are there to insert an 1/8" reduced size universal (Avery #1608)
squeezer set in. (the ones you use in your Avery squeezer & C tool) The notch
is 3/8" deep and 4" long. The 3 holes for the squeezer sets go in the un-notched
area. The holes are 3/16" diameter. Make them deep enough to insert the squeezer
sets.
Locate them so that the edge of the "reduced diameter" 1/8" universal set comes
even with the edge(s) of the bar. Make the cut out area 4" long by 3/8" deep
at the top end, away from the holes for the set. The 2 holes on the ends are
to allow you to reach the rivets on the edges of the leading edge ribs. I wanted
a lot of mass, so that the bar would keep the manufactured head tight against
the W-809 rib flange during the back riveting process. To reach the 2 innermost
ribs, you won't be able to exert a lot of downward force with your arm muscles.
The extra weight (it's 3 pounds) really helps.
I also found this bar great for riveting the main ribs to the rear spar. I was
able to install the manufactured heads against the
wing main rib flanges (keeping the manufactured head against the thinner material)
rather than against the rear spar.
This method has 4 advantages as I see it.
#1)This method all but eliminates the chance (near certainty) of "tipping" the
shop head of the rivets being set on the inner ribs. Using Van's method, the
bucker can not see either the tail of the rivet or the surface of the bucking
bar being held against it. He is trying to hold the bucking bar at almost arm's
length to set the 2 center ribs. Many early RV-8 builders complained of it being
extremely difficult to set these rivets without "tipping" them.
#2) Since you back rivet these rivets, the person using the gun can actually watch
the shop head being formed. This makes it much easier to get excellent results.
#3)This method puts the manufactured head against the leading edge rib flange.
This follows Mil-Spec recommendations. Van's method puts the shop head here where
it is very hard to see (read impossible) while setting the rivet.
#4)Place some duct tape on the web of the main rib while back riveting these rivets.
This will prevent any damage if the back rivet set slips.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Sat, 5/9/09, leschampmd@aol.com <leschampmd@aol.com> wrote:
> From: leschampmd@aol.com <leschampmd@aol.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, May 9, 2009, 9:59 PM
> I am building the wing of an RV-7A and need help
> on?fastening the outboard leading edge ribs to the main
> spar. The job is obviously 2-man work, but how how those of
> you who have built this wing fastened those ribs to the
> spars? have you managed to use AN470-4 rivets and if so, how
> did you accomplish this? I ask the question because there is
> no room for a?double offset cupped set to fit a rivet head.
> Have you used a special tool or modified the set? Have you
> used "pop" rived instead of solid ones? If, what
> rivets?
> Thanks,
> Bill
Message 3
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| Subject: | Antenna Mounting |
Comant's intallation guide is available online:
http://www.comant.com/Uploads/installationpdf/Antenna%20Installation%20Guide.pdf
Jerald King
RV8 in progess
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Side Consoles |
At 11:07 AM 5/9/2009 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>Can anyone refer me to photos of side consoles for an RV-8/A. I remember
>seeing builders modify the side brackets for more surface area and maybe
>even a slightly different angle to mount switches, breakers or ??? Any
>photos would be appreciated.
>
>Robin
Hi Robin,
I didn't "expand" on the surface area available on the right hand console of the
RV-8, but I did make pretty good use of what is available. Attached are a few
pictures of what I've got. The Vertical Power VP-200 does most of the Switching
and Circuit breaker leg work, so I really only needed to add switches for
the Emergency Bypass functionality giving me redundant connections to the battery
if the VP-200 fails in flight. I also added a kill switch for the Auto
Pilot and Rear Grip switches.
If you guys haven't checked out the Vertical Power systems, I would highly recommend you give them a look. http://www.verticalpower.com/ Very nice system that greatly simplifies the wiring installation. Exceptionally high quality product and support. A+
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Laying Out Carpet in CAD...
Message 5
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| Subject: | RE: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge |
Thanks to Charlie Kuss and Charlie England. I appreciate your advice on getting
this leading edge in place.
Bill Leschampmd@aol.com
Do not archive!
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge |
leschampmd@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks to Charlie Kuss and Charlie England. I appreciate your advice
> on getting this leading edge in place.
> Bill Leschampmd@aol.com <mailto:Leschampmd@aol.com>
>
> Do not archive!
All the credit goes to the K, not the E. My 'rib warp' technique only
works on the main ribs; I forgot about the leading edge already being
assembled when you drop it on the spar....
Sorry 'bout that.
Charlie
Do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | RE: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge |
I used #6 plate nuts and srews.
Karl
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of leschampmd@aol.com
Sent: Monday, 11 May 2009 12:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge
Thanks to Charlie Kuss and Charlie England. I appreciate your advice on
getting this leading edge in place.
Bill Leschampmd@aol.com
Do not archive!
_____
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