Today's Message Index:
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1. 12:19 AM - Re: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin (Vanremog@AOL.COM)
2. 02:32 AM - Re: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin (n801bh@netzero.com)
3. 05:52 AM - Re: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin (MacDonald Doug)
4. 07:11 AM - RV8 QB kit for sale (dan@rdan.com)
5. 08:46 AM - Re: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin (Dave Nellis)
6. 03:25 PM - Re: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin (thomas sargent)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin |
Try a TiN (Titanium Nitride) treated drill bit or carbide and go at slow
speed with significant force.
-N1GV (RV-6A Flying 922TTAE Silicon Valley, CA)
In a message dated 5/22/2009 10:23:33 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
sarg314@gmail.com writes:
Is there a better type of drill bit to use? I'm using drill bits I bought
from Avery which work fine on aluminum and soft steel. Or perhaps a
different type of cutting fluid?
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin |
I believe the gear is made from 4130 ChMo steel. This material is very p
rone to "work harden", If you did get it hot while forcing the starting
drill bit through the material it has toughened up and most drill bits w
ill not work any more. The results are exactly what you are describing.
My suggestion is to aquire a cobalt or carbide bit, use slow rotation an
d heavy force to cut through the hardened surface. Tap Magic cutting fl
uid is high quality stuff so that is ot yout problem.. Good luck and go
slow.
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: thomas sargent <sarg314@gmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin
I got my nose gear back from Langair last week and remounted it and just
set the nose wheel breakout force tonight. I then tried to drill the 1/
8" holes for the large cotter pin that secures the big castle nut that h
olds the fork on. After an hour I am perhaps 1/3 of the way thru the wa
ll of the nose gear. I'm using new drill bits and "tap magic" cutting f
luid. I put a piece of tape on the chuck of the hand drill so I could s
ee how fast it is turning. I think it is no more than 500 RPM. I'm usi
ng a #30 and a #40 (Langair says to make a dimple with the #30 then dril
l a pilot hole with the #40). The #40 seems to make no progress at all.
The #30 at least produces some filings, but it's REALLY slow going.
Is there a better type of drill bit to use? I'm using drill bits I boug
ht from Avery which work fine on aluminum and soft steel. Or perhaps a
different type of cutting fluid?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin |
Tom, don't take this the wrong way (pun intended), is it possible that you have
your drill running in reverse? We've all done it and the bits will still cut
just not very well (exactly as you describe).
I'm sorry if this offends anyone but I thought I'd through it out there as one
more thing to check.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 scratch builder
RV-4 dreamer
NW Ontario, Canada
Do not archive
I'm using a #30 and a #40 (Langair says
> to make a dimple with the #30 then drill a pilot hole with
> the #40). The #40 seems to make no progress at all. The
> #30 at least produces some filings, but it's REALLY slow
> going.
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Message 4
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| Subject: | RV8 QB kit for sale |
RV8 Quick build kit for sale Fuselage, Wings and Empennage.
Tail is done and hanging on the fuselage. completed per the plans up to bra
kes and installing the landing gear legs.
alking- $24,000 located in the Seatle area,
Dan
425-754-0112
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin |
I do metal machining on the side and was asked by a fellow RV builder to drill
the hole through the top of the gear leg. I used a high speed steel drill bit,
new, with lots of lubrication and got nowhere fast. I then bought a carbide
tipped bit 1/64" smaller than required. This worked fine again with lots of
lube, turning slow, slow, slow. Heat is the enemy here as the metal will work
harden from the drilling heat. I then used a reamer to clean up the hole to
the proper size. The reamer was wasted after the use. The result was a perfect
fit.
I would use a carbide tipped bit as it will "give" a little going through the hard
metal (chatter). A full carbide bit could be used, but more care must be
taken especially with the smaller size bits.
Dave
--- On Sat, 5/23/09, thomas sargent <sarg314@gmail.com> wrote:
> From: thomas sargent <sarg314@gmail.com>
> Subject: RV-List: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, May 23, 2009, 1:19 AM
> I got my nose gear back from Langair
> last week and remounted it and just set the nose wheel
> breakout force tonight. I then tried to drill the 1/8"
> holes for the large cotter pin that secures the big castle
> nut that holds the fork on. After an hour I am perhaps 1/3
> of the way thru the wall of the nose gear. I'm using
> new drill bits and "tap magic" cutting fluid. I
> put a piece of tape on the chuck of the hand drill so I
> could see how fast it is turning. I think it is no more
> than 500 RPM. I'm using a #30 and a #40 (Langair says
> to make a dimple with the #30 then drill a pilot hole with
> the #40). The #40 seems to make no progress at all. The
> #30 at least produces some filings, but it's REALLY slow
> going.
>
>
> Is there a better type of drill bit to use? I'm using
> drill bits I bought from Avery which work fine on aluminum
> and soft steel. Or perhaps a different type of cutting
> fluid?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin |
I picked up a couple of carbide drills this morning. They went through
easily. In fact it seems they cut best at about 300 rpm - that's where I
got the best turnings, anyway. So carbide is the way to go on this.
Thanks for all the responses. Now if I could just get all these wires
hooked up the way they were back when everything worked ....
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly
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