Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:26 AM - Re: DynaVibe prop Balancer (RICHARD MILLER)
2. 06:18 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 05/28/09 (Ian)
3. 06:19 AM - Re: Re: Mounting The Engine... (Phil Birkelbach)
4. 06:22 AM - Re: Mounting The Engine... (Chris Stone)
5. 10:42 AM - Re: Mounting the Engine (Rick Galati)
6. 11:22 AM - Re: Re: Mounting The Engine... (Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc.)
7. 08:32 PM - Must-Have Tool Tip... (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
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| Subject: | DynaVibe prop Balancer |
the dyna vibe does not give you full spectrum, and has questionable averaging.
one problem is that it does not use a laser for the tach/phase angle pickup. it
there for requires that you tape the pickup to the cowl instead of the wing.
if the pickup breaks loose it will trash your canopy.
the problem with group vibration gear is that accelerometers are like spark plugs
you only get to drop them twice, once on the floor and once in the trash can.
but lets assume i was using a dynavibe, it will give you a magitude and phase angle.
the next problem it that for test runs i will be adding weight to the spinner
retianing screws. after i balance a prop that way i have to move the weight
to the spinner backing ring, this requires a little math that most owners
don't have.
the biggest problem with balancing is most people do not understand the math behind
it.
i can balance a prop with a piece of safety wire, a fishing weight, and a ruler.
it takes me about 12 runs to do it that way, but it impresses the kids. with
phase angle input i can do it in four runs, without call it 8 runs.
so to answer the question, will the dynavibe work. yes
will it tell you if the mount is the problem, or the balancer, NO.
can you walk out to any aircraft and balance it after buying it. no
will it take training to determine the the problem, yes
so go flying and leave the balancing to the pros, if you don't have a pro in the
area, call me i will find you one.
rick a+p,i/a
--- On Wed, 4/22/09, Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com> wrote:
> From: Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, April 22, 2009, 12:52 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Zero
> experience with the device but my local prop shop charges
> $200 and says he should
> probably charge more. Should not take long to pay for
> it.
>
>
>
> Robin
>
> Do
> Not Archive
>
>
>
>
>
> From:
> owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Bill Judge
>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 5:05 PM
>
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>
> Subject: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer
>
>
>
>
>
> Fellow
> RV drivers:
>
> does anyone have any first hand experience with the
> DynaVibe dynamic prop
> balancing test set?
>
>
>
> http://www.rpxtech.com/rpxweb/Dynavibe.asp
>
>
>
> They are $1500 I'm kicking around the idea of throwing
> in with some other
> experimental owners and getting one. I've had
> some trouble getting my
> prop balanced locally and for $1500 it wouldn't take to
> many interested parties
> in my EAA Chapter to justify it. I just need to know
> that it does the
> job.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill
>
> N84WJ
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> No virus
> found in this incoming message.
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
> 04/21/09
> 16:48:00
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 05/28/09 |
Matt, I did exactly that on my RV9A - mount the engine prior to closing
the front forward fuselage. I STILL wound up wishing I'd done it even
later. I think it's normal to do it that way.
Ian Brown
On Thu, 2009-05-28 at 23:58 -0700, RV-List Digest Server wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
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>
> Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
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>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Thu 05/28/09: 9
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 01:48 PM - Mounting The Engine... (Matt Dralle)
> 2. 02:17 PM - Re: Mounting The Engine... (Kevin Horton)
> 3. 02:29 PM - Re: Mounting The Engine... (Greg Young)
> 4. 03:20 PM - Re: Mounting The Engine... (MLWynn@aol.com)
> 5. 04:13 PM - Re: Mounting The Engine... (Stan Jones)
> 6. 04:23 PM - Re: Mounting The Engine... (Matt Dralle)
> 7. 04:38 PM - Re: Re: Mounting The Engine... (Larry Bowen)
> 8. 04:45 PM - Re: Re: Mounting The Engine... (Kevin Horton)
> 9. 08:06 PM - Re: DynaVibe prop Balancer (RICHARD MILLER)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:48:58 PM PST US
> From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Mounting The Engine...
>
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I'm getting close to mounting the engine on the 'ol RV-8. I'd like to hold off
> riveting the front top skin on until I'm sure all of the wiring and what not
> works with the various engine sensors. Is it "safe" to mount the engine before
> this skin is in place? Also, I have a QB and I noticed that none of the rivets
> along the sides where the cowl hinges go are riveted save for a couple of
> temporary pop rivets. Can the engine be mounted before these two areas are completely
> riveted?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> Finishing Up The Wheels & Brakes...
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:17:57 PM PST US
> From: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Mounting The Engine...
>
> On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 16:46, Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > I'm getting close to mounting the engine on the 'ol RV-8. I'd like to hold
> > off riveting the front top skin on until I'm sure all of the wiring and what
> > not works with the various engine sensors. Is it "safe" to mount the engine
> > before this skin is in place? Also, I have a QB and I noticed that none of
> > the rivets along the sides where the cowl hinges go are riveted save for a
> > couple of temporary pop rivets. Can the engine be mounted before these two
> > areas are completely riveted?
> >
>
> My engine was on the mount for years before I riveted the front top skin.
> I'd do it that again. I checked my photos, and the rivets between the side
> skins and the firewall flanges (the ones that hold the cowl hinges) were
> also done after the engine had been hung.
>
> Good luck hanging the engine.
>
> --
> Kevin Horton
> Ottawa, Canada
>
> ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:29:21 PM PST US
> From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Mounting The Engine...
>
>
> On my RV-6 I hung the engine without the top skin but I'd recommend putting
> a rivet in every hole on the side skin to upper longeron. There is a lot of
> stress on those skins so I would not do it without riveting the side and
> bottom cowling attachments.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> > Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 3:47 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com; rv8-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Mounting The Engine...
> >
> >
> >
> > Dear Listers,
> >
> > I'm getting close to mounting the engine on the 'ol RV-8.
> > I'd like to hold off riveting the front top skin on until I'm
> > sure all of the wiring and what not works with the various
> > engine sensors. Is it "safe" to mount the engine before this
> > skin is in place? Also, I have a QB and I noticed that none
> > of the rivets along the sides where the cowl hinges go are
> > riveted save for a couple of temporary pop rivets. Can the
> > engine be mounted before these two areas are completely riveted?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Matt Dralle
> > RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> > Finishing Up The Wheels & Brakes...
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 03:20:12 PM PST US
> From: MLWynn@aol.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Mounting The Engine...
>
> I would echo the same thing. It is just not a problem to mount the engin
> e
> without the front upper skin on. There is a great little instruction on
>
> the VAF web site on mounting the engine. You definitely need a friend.
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Wynn
> RV 8 FWF
> San Ramon, CA
>
>
> In a message dated 5/28/2009 2:24:25 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> khorton01@rogers.com writes:
>
> On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 16:46, Matt Dralle <_dralle@matronics.com_
> (mailto:dralle@matronics.com) > wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <_dralle@matronics.com_
> (mailto:dralle@matronics.com) >
>
> I'm getting close to mounting the engine on the 'ol RV-8. I'd like to
> hold off riveting the front top skin on until I'm sure all of the wiring
> and
> what not works with the various engine sensors. Is it "safe" to mount th
> e
> engine before this skin is in place? Also, I have a QB and I noticed tha
> t
> none of the rivets along the sides where the cowl hinges go are riveted
>
> save for a couple of temporary pop rivets. Can the engine be mounted bef
> ore
> these two areas are completely riveted?
>
>
> My engine was on the mount for years before I riveted the front top skin.
>
> I'd do it that again. I checked my photos, and the rivets between the
> side skins and the firewall flanges (the ones that hold the cowl hinges)
> were
> also done after the engine had been hung.
>
> Good luck hanging the engine.
>
> --
> Kevin Horton
> Ottawa, Canada
>
>
> =======================
> ===========
> matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List)
> =======================
> ===========
>
> =======================
> ===========
> (http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
> =======================
> ===========
>
>
> **************We found the real =98Hotel California=99 and the
> =98Seinfeld=99
> diner. What will you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com.
> (http://www.whereitsat.com/#/music/all-spots/355/47.796964/-66.374711/2/Yo
> uve-Found-Where-Its-At?ncid=eml
> cntnew00000007)
>
> ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 04:13:56 PM PST US
> From: Stan Jones <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Mounting The Engine...
>
>
> Yes Matt, I am looking at the same problem. I am building a slider,
> and the front section of that can't be built until the top skin is in
> place.
> I would like to start the motor to verify all of my wiring is OK.
> It's going to be a bit dicey not having those rivets in place and 200
> HP thrashing around in the front
> I would be interested to hear what others have done
>
> Stan Jones
> On 29/05/2009, at 8:46 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Dear Listers,
> >
> > I'm getting close to mounting the engine on the 'ol RV-8. I'd like
> > to hold off riveting the front top skin on until I'm sure all of
> > the wiring and what not works with the various engine sensors. Is
> > it "safe" to mount the engine before this skin is in place? Also,
> > I have a QB and I noticed that none of the rivets along the sides
> > where the cowl hinges go are riveted save for a couple of temporary
> > pop rivets. Can the engine be mounted before these two areas are
> > completely riveted?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Matt Dralle
> > RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> > Finishing Up The Wheels & Brakes...
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 04:23:14 PM PST US
> From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Mounting The Engine...
>
>
> Hum, hadn't though about actually starting the motor without the skin on. I
was
> just thinking about whether it would hold the static weight. I guess to test
> all the wiring, the engine would really need to be started.
>
> So I guess I'll rephrase my question to "Could the engine be hung AND run without
> the top skin and sides riveted?" ...?
>
> Matt
>
> At 04:11 PM 5/28/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
> >
> >Yes Matt, I am looking at the same problem. I am building a slider,
> >and the front section of that can't be built until the top skin is in
> >place.
> >I would like to start the motor to verify all of my wiring is OK.
> >It's going to be a bit dicey not having those rivets in place and 200
> >HP thrashing around in the front
> >I would be interested to hear what others have done
> >
> >Stan Jones
> >On 29/05/2009, at 8:46 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>Dear Listers,
> >>
> >>I'm getting close to mounting the engine on the 'ol RV-8. I'd like
> >>to hold off riveting the front top skin on until I'm sure all of
> >>the wiring and what not works with the various engine sensors. Is
> >>it "safe" to mount the engine before this skin is in place? Also,
> >>I have a QB and I noticed that none of the rivets along the sides
> >>where the cowl hinges go are riveted save for a couple of temporary
> >>pop rivets. Can the engine be mounted before these two areas are
> >>completely riveted?
> >>
> >>Thanks!
> >>
> >>Matt Dralle
> >>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> >>Finishing Up The Wheels & Brakes...
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 04:38:08 PM PST US
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Mounting The Engine...
> From: Larry Bowen <larry@bowenaero.com>
>
> Hung without top skin: OK
> Run without top skin: I wouldn't
>
> IMO,
>
> --
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 7:21 PM, Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > Hum, hadn't though about actually starting the motor without the skin on.
> > I was just thinking about whether it would hold the static weight. I guess
> > to test all the wiring, the engine would really need to be started.
> >
> > So I guess I'll rephrase my question to "Could the engine be hung AND run
> > without the top skin and sides riveted?" ...?
> >
> > Matt
> >
> > At 04:11 PM 5/28/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
> > >
> > >Yes Matt, I am looking at the same problem. I am building a slider,
> > >and the front section of that can't be built until the top skin is in
> > >place.
> > >I would like to start the motor to verify all of my wiring is OK.
> > >It's going to be a bit dicey not having those rivets in place and 200
> > >HP thrashing around in the front
> > >I would be interested to hear what others have done
> > >
> > >Stan Jones
> > >On 29/05/2009, at 8:46 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
> > >
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>Dear Listers,
> > >>
> > >>I'm getting close to mounting the engine on the 'ol RV-8. I'd like
> > >>to hold off riveting the front top skin on until I'm sure all of
> > >>the wiring and what not works with the various engine sensors. Is
> > >>it "safe" to mount the engine before this skin is in place? Also,
> > >>I have a QB and I noticed that none of the rivets along the sides
> > >>where the cowl hinges go are riveted save for a couple of temporary
> > >>pop rivets. Can the engine be mounted before these two areas are
> > >>completely riveted?
> > >>
> > >>Thanks!
> > >>
> > >>Matt Dralle
> > >>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> > >>Finishing Up The Wheels & Brakes...
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 04:45:14 PM PST US
> From: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Mounting The Engine...
>
> The engine thrashes around a bit at start and shutdown, and I'd want the
> structure to be complete. I wouldn't recommend starting the engine without
> having all the rivets in.
>
> You should be able to test about 99% of the wiring without starting the
> engine.
>
> Kevin Horton
> Ottawa, Canada
>
>
> On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 19:21, Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > Hum, hadn't though about actually starting the motor without the skin on.
> > I was just thinking about whether it would hold the static weight. I guess
> > to test all the wiring, the engine would really need to be started.
> >
> > So I guess I'll rephrase my question to "Could the engine be hung AND run
> > without the top skin and sides riveted?" ...?
> >
> > Matt
> >
> > At 04:11 PM 5/28/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
> > >
> > >Yes Matt, I am looking at the same problem. I am building a slider,
> > >and the front section of that can't be built until the top skin is in
> > >place.
> > >I would like to start the motor to verify all of my wiring is OK.
> > >It's going to be a bit dicey not having those rivets in place and 200
> > >HP thrashing around in the front
> > >I would be interested to hear what others have done
> > >
> > >Stan Jones
> > >On 29/05/2009, at 8:46 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
> > >
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>Dear Listers,
> > >>
> > >>I'm getting close to mounting the engine on the 'ol RV-8. I'd like
> > >>to hold off riveting the front top skin on until I'm sure all of
> > >>the wiring and what not works with the various engine sensors. Is
> > >>it "safe" to mount the engine before this skin is in place? Also,
> > >>I have a QB and I noticed that none of the rivets along the sides
> > >>where the cowl hinges go are riveted save for a couple of temporary
> > >>pop rivets. Can the engine be mounted before these two areas are
> > >>completely riveted?
> > >>
> > >>Thanks!
> > >>
> > >>Matt Dralle
> > >>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> > >>Finishing Up The Wheels & Brakes...
> >
>
> ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:06:53 PM PST US
> From: RICHARD MILLER <rickpegser@yahoo.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer
>
>
>
> gentelman:
>
> i use an ird smart meter 720. it gives me phase angle and amplitude of the
> vibration. second to this i use a ti 89 programed to give me the weights and
> angles i need for balancing. i have two channels front and back , i find that
> i only do the front unless i find a problem with the engine or mount. i have
been
> told the the local experts that i need to play with the prop weights. as an
> i/a without a propshop repair station endorment i have to follow the rule for
> balancing and that limits me to the spinner backing plate. if any one is playing
> with the prop wieghts you should run.
>
> there is several problems with the cheap gear.
>
> 1 most of them do not do full spectrium anlysis.
> 2 you are unable to get the harmonics from the cheap gear.
> 3 some of them don't do phase angle, whlie you can still balance without phase
> angle it takes atleast 4 runs.
>
> the next question is why?
> the average cost for a balance is about 250.00$ this ballance will last untill
> a prop change/ engine change.
>
>
> so you have a choice buy a questionable piece of equipment. and try to do the
job
> yourself. or hire someone with the right gear to do the job right, for 1/8
> the cost of trying to buy the trash gear.
>
> rick i/a a+p
>
>
> --- On Wed, 4/22/09, Ralph Finch <rgf@dcn.davis.ca.us> wrote:
>
> > From: Ralph Finch <rgf@dcn.davis.ca.us>
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Date: Wednesday, April 22, 2009, 10:18 AM
> > "Ralph Finch" <rgf@dcn.davis.ca.us>
> >
> > A typical dynamic balancer will place an accelerometer on
> > the engine and a
> > small reflective timing tape on the prop along with a cheap
> > light detector.
> > The outputs are sent to the balancer which using equations
> > of vibration will
> > figure out where and how much weight to place on the
> > spinner backplate. No
> > strobe involved, and certainly no trial and error: it's all
> > deterministic.
> > Once the weight is placed, it's measured once again to
> > check the improvement
> > and job done.
> >
> > Our RV club a year ago had a great presentation by a fellow
> > who measures the
> > acceleration (vibration) both fore and aft, not just in the
> > front.
> > Apparently this does a better job.
> >
> > The principles of dynamic balancing are not quantum
> > chromodynamics and the
> > equipment should be inexpensive, so no reason why these
> > things should cost
> > huge amounts.
> >
> > RF
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]
> > On Behalf Of Richard Tasker
> > Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 7:28 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer
> >
> >
> > Thanks, but that is really not the information I
> > need. I already know
> > the principles and how one does it in practice. I
> > just don't know
> > enough about the EVA2 to know if it can be used like the
> > description.
> >
> > Possibly it has an output for a strobe and can be used
> > exactly as the
> > description you referenced. If not, it could be used
> > in a trial and
> > error approach. Check the
> > balance.Add a little weight somewhere and
> >
> > see if the balance improves or degrades. Adjust
> > weights appropriately.
> > Fairly easy, but much easier with a synchronized strobe.
> >
> > Dick
> >
> > Vanremog@aol.com
> > wrote:
> > > This link has a pretty good explanation of the
> > principles involved in
> > > dynamic prop balancing.
> > >
> > > http://lists.kjsl.com/pipermail/beech-owners/2003-February/019466.html
> >
> >
> >
> > Forum -
> > FAQ,
> > - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> > List Contribution Web Site -
> > -Matt
> > Dralle, List Admin.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting The Engine... |
I wouldn't start the engine until you have a complete airframe, wings
and all. That is a lot of torque swinging around up there. You
should be able to test all of your wiring without running the engine.
You can dunk temperature sensors in hot water, pressure up pressure
sensors with air and hit thermocouples with a heat gun. You can
disconnect the starter wire from the starter and hook it up to a light
to test the starter circuit. The alternator wiring is a little tricky
but it's simple enough that if you have the rest right then you should
have that right too. Besides even if you don't have it right the
chances are that it's all forward of the firewall anyway.
Phil Birkelbach
Houston RV7 - 727WB
phil@petrasoft.net
http://www.myrv7.com/
On May 28, 2009, at 6:21 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Hum, hadn't though about actually starting the motor without the
> skin on. I was just thinking about whether it would hold the static
> weight. I guess to test all the wiring, the engine would really
> need to be started.
>
> So I guess I'll rephrase my question to "Could the engine be hung
> AND run without the top skin and sides riveted?" ...?
>
> Matt
>
> At 04:11 PM 5/28/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>>
>> Yes Matt, I am looking at the same problem. I am building a slider,
>> and the front section of that can't be built until the top skin is in
>> place.
>> I would like to start the motor to verify all of my wiring is OK.
>> It's going to be a bit dicey not having those rivets in place and 200
>> HP thrashing around in the front
>> I would be interested to hear what others have done
>>
>> Stan Jones
>> On 29/05/2009, at 8:46 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dear Listers,
>>>
>>> I'm getting close to mounting the engine on the 'ol RV-8. I'd like
>>> to hold off riveting the front top skin on until I'm sure all of
>>> the wiring and what not works with the various engine sensors. Is
>>> it "safe" to mount the engine before this skin is in place? Also,
>>> I have a QB and I noticed that none of the rivets along the sides
>>> where the cowl hinges go are riveted save for a couple of temporary
>>> pop rivets. Can the engine be mounted before these two areas are
>>> completely riveted?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Matt Dralle
>>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>> Finishing Up The Wheels & Brakes...
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting The Engine... |
Matt...
I am about the same place on my -8 QB and doing the same assembly sequence. Since
the engine mount attaches to the longerons there is little stress induced
into the skin at the firewall. The load from the engine mount is distributed
to the skin progressivly from the firewall aft.
I would have the cowl attach hinge mounted to the firewall since any thing that
you mount to the engine side may complicate adding the hinge later. This will
also allow you to take out the temporary "pop" rivets and rivit in the hinge.
Actually there are very few items that pass through the fire wall that can't
be accessed after skinning the forward area. On our first -8 build we hung
the engine and did all wiring after fully completing the fuse. No real problems
doing it that way. Plenty of access to everything.
Chris Stone
RV-8
Newberg, OR
>
>
>Dear Listers,
>
>I'm getting close to mounting the engine on the 'ol RV-8. I'd like to hold off
riveting the front top skin on until I'm sure all of the wiring and what not
works with the various engine sensors. Is it "safe" to mount the engine before
this skin is in place? Also, I have a QB and I noticed that none of the rivets
along the sides where the cowl hinges go are riveted save for a couple of
temporary pop rivets. Can the engine be mounted before these two areas are completely
riveted?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>Finishing Up The Wheels & Brakes...
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting the Engine |
-
I experienced-zero problems hanging the engine prior the installing the f
orward upper skin on both the -6A and the -8.-I completed all instrument
wiring and tested the-radios and other panel circuitry while the fuselage
was still in the garage-minus the wings.- Indeed, having that open acc
ess greatly eases-ergonomic complications when working behind the instrum
ent panel. Make it easy on yourself. Put off installing that upper skin unt
il you absolutely have to. -The first photo documents engine installation
on the -8 without the forward upper skin in place.- In fact, for a good
fit I-recommend you do not complete the forward baggage door installation
until AFTER the engine is hung.-
-
[IMG]http://i43.tinypic.com/qqyg04.jpg[/IMG]
-
As far starting the engine, as the second photo graphically shows I simply
100% clecoed the -6A upper skin into place for the first engine starts and
the procedure worked out just fine, not one cleco managed to vibrate loose.
-
-
[IMG]http://i39.tinypic.com/2d2ivs0.jpg[/IMG]
-
Rick Galati
-
N307R- RV-6A- "Darla!"
N308R- RV-8
-
-
-
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting The Engine... |
How many cleco's do you have? "I wouldn't do it."
Jim
RV9a building
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 6:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Mounting The Engine...
>
> Hum, hadn't though about actually starting the motor without the skin on.
> I was just thinking about whether it would hold the static weight. I
> guess to test all the wiring, the engine would really need to be started.
>
> So I guess I'll rephrase my question to "Could the engine be hung AND run
> without the top skin and sides riveted?" ...?
>
> Matt
>
> At 04:11 PM 5/28/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>>
>>Yes Matt, I am looking at the same problem. I am building a slider,
>>and the front section of that can't be built until the top skin is in
>>place.
>>I would like to start the motor to verify all of my wiring is OK.
>>It's going to be a bit dicey not having those rivets in place and 200
>>HP thrashing around in the front
>>I would be interested to hear what others have done
>>
>>Stan Jones
>>On 29/05/2009, at 8:46 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Dear Listers,
>>>
>>>I'm getting close to mounting the engine on the 'ol RV-8. I'd like
>>>to hold off riveting the front top skin on until I'm sure all of
>>>the wiring and what not works with the various engine sensors. Is
>>>it "safe" to mount the engine before this skin is in place? Also,
>>>I have a QB and I noticed that none of the rivets along the sides
>>>where the cowl hinges go are riveted save for a couple of temporary
>>>pop rivets. Can the engine be mounted before these two areas are
>>>completely riveted?
>>>
>>>Thanks!
>>>
>>>Matt Dralle
>>>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>>Finishing Up The Wheels & Brakes...
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Must-Have Tool Tip... |
Dear Listers,
I don't know, maybe everyone but me already knew about this little gem of a tool,
but in case you missed it, I thought I share. If you don't have one of these,
run - don't walk - down to your local Home Depot or Ace Hardware store and
get one! All of those #8 screws in the RVs are a giant pain to work in and out
and some are just impossible to get to. I've been using this little guy on
the RV-8 project and can't image not having it now. The bendable shaft is really
strong and you can bend the heck out of it without impacting the torque.
Its about $13 at Home Depot which is a great deal considering how handy it is.
Here's a link to it on the Ace Hardware web page. I also attached a picture of
mine attached to my Dewalt electric screw driver.
http://www.acehardware.com/sm-eazypower-flex-a-bit-plus-eazypower-flex-a-bit-plus--pi-2467822.html
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Fitting Wheel Pants - Ug, These Suck...
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