Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:44 AM - Re: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque (Kelly McMullen)
2. 06:11 AM - Re: Engine cooling issues and the #3 cylinder (Kelly McMullen)
3. 06:24 AM - Re: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque (Michael Kraus)
4. 06:42 AM - Re: Engine cooling issues and the #3 cylinder (Tim Olson)
5. 06:42 AM - Re: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque (Kelly McMullen)
6. 07:51 AM - Re: removing nose gear wheel. (thomas sargent)
7. 10:44 AM - Re: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque (Kevin Horton)
8. 11:23 AM - Nuckoll's seminar June 27-28 (john schmidt)
9. 09:36 PM - telemetry (RICHARD MILLER)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque |
Yes. If that is sufficiently tight for your calibrated wrist and ability
to hold wrench on nut, it isn't going anywhere.
Garey Wittich wrote:
>
> . Is this 1/8 turn adequate for the Jam Nut tightness, if NOT how do
> you turn the Nut (since it is recessed) ????
>
> W
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Engine cooling issues and the #3 cylinder |
On 4 cyl Lycs the #2 and #3 will run hot if tightly baffled because the
intake side of the cylinder has no fins, but does need airflow past it.
Using silicone baffle spacers or something else to establish 1/8" or
more clearance between front of #2 and rear of #3 will cool temps 30
degrees or so. Cardinal owners learned this long ago as Cessna built
baffles too tight.
jhnstniii@aol.com wrote:
> Listers--Thought I would pass along a solution I haven't seen before
> on the list for the problem of the #3 cylinder running warm. Others
> have mentioned putting a washer behind the back baffle. We did that
> with little improvement. Then I realized we had glassed in our upper
> inlet ramps nice and symmetrically, but the engine is not
> symmetrical. The right bank of cylinders is forward of the left
> bank. If you glass in the upper inlet ramps symmetrically you will be
> "pinching" the airflow on the right side because the #1 cylinder is so
> far forward and there is a steep bottom ramp on the right side. If
> you put your hand in each of your inlets you will probably notice how
> much more room there is on the left side v. the right side. I could
> just get my hand through on the right side on ours. This restriction
> was what was causing the #3 to run hot.
>
> I cut out and re-glassed the right upper ramp about 1 1/2 inches
> forward, so that the right upper ramp and right lower ramp surfaces
> were more parallel with no pinching of the airflow. Voila--the two
> rear cylinders now run even with the #3 much cooler than before. I
> can stick my hand right through there now.
>
> Hope this helps. I called Vans and suggested they mention this in the
> instructions and plans.
>
> LeRoy Johnston/David White (Ohio) RV-6A "Esperanza" 172 hours flying.
>
> .
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it Off
> <http://www.aolhealth.com/diet/weight-loss-program/?ncid=emlcntusheal00000001>
> to learn how.
> *
>
>
> *
--
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque |
Why would you not use the standard torque specified for a bolt/nut of
the size being torqued?? Like if it is 10-24 then it would be 20-25
in lbs.... Etc
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 6, 2009, at 8:40 AM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
> Yes. If that is sufficiently tight for your calibrated wrist and
> ability to hold wrench on nut, it isn't going anywhere.
>
> Garey Wittich wrote:
>>
>>
>> . Is this 1/8 turn adequate for the Jam Nut tightness, if NOT how
>> do you turn the Nut (since it is recessed) ????
>>
>> W
> <mime-attachment.jpeg>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Engine cooling issues and the #3 cylinder |
Do you have a photo example?
Tim
On Jun 6, 2009, at 7:46 AM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
>
> On 4 cyl Lycs the #2 and #3 will run hot if tightly baffled because
> the intake side of the cylinder has no fins, but does need airflow
> past it. Using silicone baffle spacers or something else to
> establish 1/8" or more clearance between front of #2 and rear of #3
> will cool temps 30 degrees or so. Cardinal owners learned this long
> ago as Cessna built baffles too tight.
>
> jhnstniii@aol.com wrote:
>> Listers--Thought I would pass along a solution I haven't seen
>> before on the list for the problem of the #3 cylinder running
>> warm. Others have mentioned putting a washer behind the back
>> baffle. We did that with little improvement. Then I realized we
>> had glassed in our upper inlet ramps nice and symmetrically, but
>> the engine is not symmetrical. The right bank of cylinders is
>> forward of the left bank. If you glass in the upper inlet ramps
>> symmetrically you will be "pinching" the airflow on the right side
>> because the #1 cylinder is so far forward and there is a steep
>> bottom ramp on the right side. If you put your hand in each of
>> your inlets you will probably notice how much more room there is on
>> the left side v. the right side. I could just get my hand through
>> on the right side on ours. This restriction was what was causing
>> the #3 to run hot.
>>
>> I cut out and re-glassed the right upper ramp about 1 1/2 inches
>> forward, so that the right upper ramp and right lower ramp surfaces
>> were more parallel with no pinching of the airflow. Voila--the
>> two rear cylinders now run even with the #3 much cooler than
>> before. I can stick my hand right through there now.
>> Hope this helps. I called Vans and suggested they mention this in
>> the instructions and plans.
>> LeRoy Johnston/David White (Ohio) RV-6A "Esperanza" 172 hours flying.
>>
>> .
>> ---
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it Off <http://www.aolhealth.com/diet/weight-loss-program/?ncid=emlcntusheal00000001
>> > to learn how.
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
> --
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque |
There are places that no torque wrench and extensions are going to
reach. Experience can get you real close. For example, 3/4 of a turn
from first contact on an oil filter will get you proper torque every time.
Michael Kraus wrote:
> Why would you not use the standard torque specified for a bolt/nut of
> the size being torqued?? Like if it is 10-24 then it would be 20-25
> in lbs.... Etc
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 6, 2009, at 8:40 AM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com
> <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>> wrote:
>
>> Yes. If that is sufficiently tight for your calibrated wrist and
>> ability to hold wrench on nut, it isn't going anywhere.
>>
>> Garey Wittich wrote:
>>>
>>> . Is this 1/8 turn adequate for the Jam Nut tightness, if NOT how
>>> do you turn the Nut (since it is recessed) ????
>>>
>>> W
>>>
>> <mime-attachment.jpeg>
> *
>
>
> *
--
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: removing nose gear wheel. |
Larry:
I'd like to leave the lifting eye on the engine, but I made fiberglass
cooling plenum for the engine and the eye won't fit underneath it. In
fact I don't think it will fit under the cowl either, for that matter.
On Jun 4, 2009, at 10:15 AM, Larry Bowen wrote:
> Some have used sandbags on the root end of the HS to make the nose
> very light. IE, lift it with one hand.
>
> Why is it necessary to remove the "lifting eye" from the engine? It
> will be used again someday. I've never heard of it being taken just
> because your ready to fly....
>
> --
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
> Sent from Welcome, NC, United States
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque |
If you could get a torque wrench on it, you would want to use a torque
value for a shear nut. E.g., if it was 10-24, you would want 12-15 in-
lb, according to the torque table in AC43.13-1B.
Kevin Horton
On 6-Jun-09, at 09:25 , Michael Kraus wrote:
> Why would you not use the standard torque specified for a bolt/nut
> of the size being torqued?? Like if it is 10-24 then it would be
> 20-25 in lbs.... Etc
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 6, 2009, at 8:40 AM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Yes. If that is sufficiently tight for your calibrated wrist and
>> ability to hold wrench on nut, it isn't going anywhere.
>>
>> Garey Wittich wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> . Is this 1/8 turn adequate for the Jam Nut tightness, if NOT how
>>> do you turn the Nut (since it is recessed) ????
>>>
>>> W
>> <mime-attachment.jpeg>
>
--
Kevin Horton
Ottawa, Canada
Message 8
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| Subject: | Nuckoll's seminar June 27-28 |
RV listers:
If you are looking to get some electrical systems education, there is
still room available at Bob Nuckoll's weekend
seminar in Mason City, Iowa on June 27 and 28.
http://aeroelectric.com/seminars/Mason_City.html<http://aeroelectric.com/
seminars/Mason_City.html>
It's the best $185 'college tuition' you'll spend. The camaraderie isn't
bad, either.
John Schmidt
St. Paul, Minnesota
651 776 1717
RV6, super slow build
Message 9
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we have been playing with telemtry for our rockets. using gps modules to track
them and an interface to the altimeters. the equipment has come to the cost point
that that you can build a remote telemetry module for less then 500$ with
a 7 mile range. durring test flight this might be a good idea, forget watching
the panel the ground crew is doing it for you. just a thought. if anybody wants
to know how to do it give me an email off list at rickpegser@yahoo."you know
what"
rick
--- On Sat, 6/6/09, Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com> wrote:
> From: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, June 6, 2009, 10:30 AM
> Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
> If you could get a torque wrench on it, you would want to
> use a torque value for a shear nut. E.g., if it was
> 10-24, you would want 12-15 in-lb, according to the torque
> table in AC43.13-1B.
>
> Kevin Horton
>
> On 6-Jun-09, at 09:25 , Michael Kraus wrote:
>
> > Why would you not use the standard torque specified
> for a bolt/nut of the size being
> torqued??Like if it is 10-24 then it would
> be 20-25 in lbs.... Etc
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > On Jun 6, 2009, at 8:40 AM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
> wrote:
> >
> >> Yes. If that is sufficiently tight for your
> calibrated wrist and ability to hold wrench on nut, it isn't
> going anywhere.
> >>
> >> Garey Wittich wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> . Is this 1/8 turn adequate for the Jam
> Nut tightness, if NOT how do you turn the Nut (since it is
> recessed) ????
> >>>
> >>> W
> >> <mime-attachment.jpeg>
> >
>
>
> --
> Kevin Horton
> Ottawa, Canada
>
>
>
>
> Forum -
> FAQ,
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> List Contribution Web Site -
> -Matt
> Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
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