---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 06/16/09: 7 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:54 AM - Re: Bolt Hole Clearance - Elevator Horn (Trevor) 2. 04:53 AM - Re: Gamin GNS 430 vs. 530 decision (Ralph E. Capen) 3. 07:24 AM - Re: Need some RV tire/tube advice (John Morgensen) 4. 08:42 AM - Re: Gamin GNS 430 vs. 530 decision (Greg Young) 5. 11:12 AM - Re: Need some RV tire/tube advice (Mark Grieve) 6. 01:26 PM - Re: Need some RV tire/tube advice (RV6 Flyer) 7. 04:30 PM - Re: Need some RV tire/tube advice (Tom & Cathy Ervin) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:54:04 AM PST US From: "Trevor" Subject: Re: RV-List: Bolt Hole Clearance - Elevator Horn GAREY, HAVE YOU CHECKED THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ELEV. SPAR AND THE CENTER OF THE EYE BOLTS AS PER PLANS AND DID THE HOLES ALL LINE UP?. TREVOR RV-7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc. To: rv-list@matronics.com Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 4:26 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Bolt Hole Clearance - Elevator Horn Garey, I think you should give Van's a call, they will give you the best recommendation. Make sure you have the right amount of travel on the elevator up and down. Die grinding seems like a good way to solve the problem, however, something doesn't seem right here, please call Van's. Good luck. Jim RV9a Building ----- Original Message ----- From: Garey Wittich To: rv8-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2009 10:50 PM Subject: RV-List: Bolt Hole Clearance - Elevator Horn REF: Regarding the 1/4 inch bolt holes in the Elevator Control Horns, about which the Left & Right Elevator Horns rotate on the center Hinge Bearing fastened to the center of the Horiz Stabilizer. After drilling these 1/4 inch diameter holes (for the AN4 Bolt), these holes are too close to the weld fillet that welds the torque tube to the perpendicular part of the Horn. The weld fillets on my L & R Horns go ALL the way around the Tube. Thus the AN4 Bolt HEAD and corresponding Nut HEAD will come in contact with the "weld fillet" BEFORE they are tightened. After reading the "Archieves" for possible solutions and some of my own thoughts it seems the options are (looking for the BEST Option): 1) Die Grind the weld fillet in the area where the Bolt and Nut heads will be, then spot prime with Zinc Chromate. 2) Grind the weld fillet where the Nut Head will be and then use a reduced size Nut (MS21042-4) that has a smaller diameter than the one supplied by Vans. 3) Use regular AN960 Washers and "contour them" to fit over the weld fillet so Bolt Head and Nut fit snug against them. (Will need a longer Bolt than supplied by Vans.) 4) Make a "thick" washer out of stainless steel (i.e. 1/8" thick) and "contour it" to fit over the weld fillets; thus the Bolt and Nut heads have a flat surface to tighten against. Again a longer Bolt will be required. <----- Seems the BEST approach to me. Any subtle issues involved ??? How did YOU handle this situation ??????? Appreciate your comments !!! Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:53:24 AM PST US From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: RE: RV-List: Gamin GNS 430 vs. 530 decision Greg, I'm going through all of this right now. The 420W was chosen as a direct functional replacement for the 60 - I have an SL30 and a Narco Nav122DGPS so both navs are already covered - and the Narco has an input that allows me to use it to display CDI info from the 420 and the 30. The height difference is .65 in the panel, the width is the same and I didn't measure the difference in the depth - but the manuals should give you that (I have both sets electronically if you want to look at them). The wiring gotcha is that a Garmin 'shop' has to wire up the back of the box for you - you're stuck with paying a lot and getting wiring that's either too long (PITB - except you can trim it) or too short (really bad)...it does look good though. I went with the too long scenario - hopefully too long enough. Another wiring sorta-gotcha is that I will be sending grey-code from my encoder to both my SL70 and the 420 as I am using the serial ports on the 420 to communicate with my AFS 3400 Engine Monitor (they are both isolation diode equipped so it's OK - see the discussion thread elsewhere). I'll be starting the 'rebuild' this weekend. When I first built it, I did it as components - so I can rebuild it with mounting points and connector points already defined - and working. We'll see how that works out. Hope this helps - ask me again in a couple of weeks how it is going and I'll send you an update. Ralph -----Original Message----- >From: Greg Young >Sent: Jun 15, 2009 6:42 PM >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Gamin GNS 430 vs. 530 decision > > >Ralph, > >Any installation issues of note with that approach? I've got GX-60's in 2 >planes and might have to go that route. I actually hadn't considered the >420W but I assume it's somewhat cheaper without the Nav and saves an extra >antenna. I've also got an SL-30 in both planes so don't really need a 2nd >Nav. Do you recall the height difference? Any wiring gotchas? > >Regards, >Greg Young > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of >> Ralph E. Capen >> Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 10:07 AM >> To: rv-list@matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gamin GNS 430 vs. 530 decision >> >> >> >> I am replacing a GX60 and went with the closest functional >> device - the 420W. I already have a MX20 display in my panel >> so I didn't need the 520's 'bigger' screen. >> >> My .02.... >> >> Ralph >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:24:29 AM PST US From: John Morgensen Subject: Re: RV-List: Need some RV tire/tube advice Slightly off topic, but has anyone used the "accu-pressure" valve type gauges on hard to reach tires? John McFarland, Randy wrote: > Changing tires on my 7A after 310 hours. Considering McCreary Air > Hawks thru A/C Spruce. BUT, tubes appear to cost $52 each! If tubes > have been otherwise good and reliable, what should their service life > be? Same as tire or ??? > > Thx > Randy > 7A San Martin, Ca Mcculley wrote: > > I can highly recommend the Michelin Condors. I have well over 500 > hours on a pair with 2/3 of the original tread depth yet to go and all > on hard surface operation. > > Jim McCulley ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:42:24 AM PST US From: "Greg Young" Subject: RE: RV-List: Gamin GNS 430 vs. 530 decision Thanks Ralph, most helpful. My stacks are similar so I'll have the same issues. I've got A GX-60, SL-30, SL-70, ACU & CDI in both my Navion & RV-6. The Navion has an MX-20 while the RV has dual GRT's. I'll check back for an update. Regards, Greg Young > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of > Ralph E. Capen > Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 6:51 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV-List: Gamin GNS 430 vs. 530 decision > > > > Greg, > > I'm going through all of this right now. The 420W was chosen > as a direct functional replacement for the 60 - I have an > SL30 and a Narco Nav122DGPS so both navs are already covered > - and the Narco has an input that allows me to use it to > display CDI info from the 420 and the 30. > > The height difference is .65 in the panel, the width is the > same and I didn't measure the difference in the depth - but > the manuals should give you that (I have both sets > electronically if you want to look at them). > > The wiring gotcha is that a Garmin 'shop' has to wire up the > back of the box for you - you're stuck with paying a lot and > getting wiring that's either too long (PITB - except you can > trim it) or too short (really bad)...it does look good > though. I went with the too long scenario - hopefully too > long enough. Another wiring sorta-gotcha is that I will be > sending grey-code from my encoder to both my SL70 and the 420 > as I am using the serial ports on the 420 to communicate with > my AFS 3400 Engine Monitor (they are both isolation diode > equipped so it's OK - see the discussion thread elsewhere). > > I'll be starting the 'rebuild' this weekend. When I first > built it, I did it as components - so I can rebuild it with > mounting points and connector points already defined - and > working. We'll see how that works out. > > Hope this helps - ask me again in a couple of weeks how it is > going and I'll send you an update. > > Ralph > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 11:12:01 AM PST US From: Mark Grieve Subject: Re: RV-List: Need some RV tire/tube advice I had a similar experience Linn. Our Cherokee's front tire started losing air so I replaced the tire and tube. The plane had been flown mainly off of grass and we couldn't remember replacing that tire in 30 years. Logbooks didn't tell us otherwise. Reuse the tube till it won't hold air any more. Mark linn wrote: > > Randy, I'm getting ready to change the tubes in my Pitts. They're 28 > years old, and have been through 4 or 5 sets of tires. The > recommendations (probably from those that sell tubes!) is to change > tubes with tires. I don't know anybody who does that. I've seen more > tubes damaged from improper installation than old age. > Linn > > > McFarland, Randy wrote: >> Changing tires on my 7A after 310 hours. Considering McCreary Air >> Hawks thru A/C Spruce. BUT, tubes appear to cost $52 each! If tubes >> have been otherwise good and reliable, what should their service life >> be? Same as tire or ??? >> >> Thx >> Randy >> 7A San Martin, Ca >> >> * >> >> >> * >> >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 01:26:08 PM PST US From: RV6 Flyer Subject: RE: RV-List: Need some RV tire/tube advice Randy: Once you get GOOD Michelin "Airstop" tubes (or equivalent)=2C they will las t a long time and you can forget about changing tubes till you get a leak. (Based on my experience.) For new tires=2C the Goodyear tires last the longest and the Condor 2nd lon gest for NEW tires. The longest lasting tires and best tires I have had ha ve been Goodyear retreads from Wilkerson Aircraft Tires. http://www.wilker sonaircrafttires.com/ Paid $50 each delivered for their cores. The Wilker son retreads last at least 50% longer than NEW Goodyear tires and are a lot less money. They are heaver=2C have a better rubber=2C and more rubber tha n NEW tires. Looks like they have a SPECIAL going on right now. $44 for 500 - 5's. http://www.wilkersonaircrafttires.com/genav.html I like the Wilkerson retread tires so much=2C that I now am on my 2nd set. Was turned on to the Wilkerson retreads several years ago by one of my Texa s Formation friends (he works in the Texas Department of Transportation=2C Aviation Division) when I flew as part of "Falcon Flight" maneuvering routi ne at GoldenWest air show. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C 2=2C231+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA _________________________________________________________________ Microsoft brings you a new way to search the web. Try Bing=99 now http://www.bing.com?form=MFEHPG&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFEHPG_Core_ta gline_try bing_1x1 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 04:30:59 PM PST US From: Tom & Cathy Ervin Subject: Re: RV-List: Need some RV tire/tube advice Randy, Goodyear also makes Airstop Tubes and they are excellent! Goodyear uses Flexten belts in their tires which are 5 times stronger than steel belts. Flexten tires are also lighter and every pound counts. Tom in Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: "RV6 Flyer" Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 4:16:37 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RE: RV-List: Need some RV tire/tube advice Randy: Once you get GOOD Michelin "Airstop" tubes (or equivalent), they will last a long time and you can forget about changing tubes till you get a leak. (Based on my experience.) For new tires, the Goodyear tires last the longest and the Condor 2nd longest for NEW tires. The longest lasting tires and best tires I have had have been Goodyear retreads from Wilkerson Aircraft Tires. http://www.wilkersonaircrafttires.com/ Paid $50 each delivered for their cores. The Wilkerson retreads last at least 50% longer than NEW Goodyear tires and are a lot less money. They are heaver, have a better rubber, and more rubber than NEW tires. Looks like they have a SPECIAL going on right now. $44 for 500 - 5's. http://www.wilkersonaircrafttires.com/genav.html I like the Wilkerson retread tires so much, that I now am on my 2nd set. Was turned on to the Wilkerson retreads several years ago by one of my Texas Formation friends (he works in the Texas Department of Transportation, Aviation Division) when I flew as part of "Falcon Flight" maneuvering routine at GoldenWest air show. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 2,231+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA _________________________________________________________________ Microsoft brings you a new way to search the web. 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