Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:52 AM - nose wheel shimmy and other tire balance issues - balancing beads (Frazier, Vincent A)
2. 05:43 AM - Re: nose wheel shimmy and other tire balance issues - balancing beads (Carl Froehlich)
3. 07:38 AM - Where Do I Install The Fuel Flow Transducer (Brian Cross)
4. 08:05 AM - Re: Where Do I Install The Fuel Flow Transducer (Matt Dralle)
5. 08:11 AM - Test (Brian Cross)
6. 08:13 AM - Re: Where Do I Install The Fuel Flow Transducer (Richard McBride)
7. 08:14 AM - Re: nose wheel shimmy and other tire balance issue (Ron Lee)
8. 08:26 AM - Re: Where Do I Install The Fuel Flow Transducer (Carl Froehlich)
9. 08:44 AM - Re: nose wheel shimmy and other tire balance issue (Ron Lee)
10. 09:44 AM - Re: nose wheel shimmy and other tire balance issue (Carl Froehlich)
11. 04:38 PM - Application/Parts Info (R.C. Flyer)
12. 06:22 PM - Re: nose wheel shimmy and other tire balance issues - balancing beads (J. Mcculley)
Message 1
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| Subject: | nose wheel shimmy and other tire balance issues - balancing beads |
SNIP Subject: Re: RV-List: Nose wheel pant vertical oscillation
Thanks to you and others who replied.? Will try some things and report.?
Do not
archive...... Out of round is obvious if you place a stick or pen close
to
the tire and observe the separation as the tire slowly rotates.
......
Balance using adhesive backed weights you can get from
places like motorcycle shops SNIP
I have often wondered if the balancing beads that are used in
motorcycles, trucks, and RVs (the motorhomes, not the planes) would
provide any benefit for balance issues seen in our planes? I'd
experiment with it on my plane... if I had an issue that needed it!
If anyone out there has REAL experience with these beads, please report
back.
Not to start a war, but please spare us the "I heard...." or "IMHO, the
beads are...." comments. Those only muddy the waters.
Has anyone actually used this product and did it help?
Vince
Message 2
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| Subject: | nose wheel shimmy and other tire balance issues - balancing |
beads
I installed the MATCO nose wheel axle on my 8A. After several attempts to
solve the nose wheel shimmy I fabricated an axle spacer (steel tubing) and
installed it between the wheel bearings so that the axle nut can be tighten
without increasing the drag on the bearings. This help the shimmy problem
but it was a pain to first file the spacer - then add washers because I
filed too much off - then try to juggle the pieces and parts into the
assembly without something falling out on the hangar floor. The MATCO axle
solved all these problems and at less than $50 it is a no brainer. I bought
a second one for my RV-10 project.
I also got my wheel balance weighs from MATCO (about 1/2" square, 1/8" thick
with a strong adhesive tape backing). There is nothing special about these
weights and you can get them elsewhere. I got the MATCO provided weights as
it was easy to add to the axle box. One weight was perfect to balance my 8A
nose wheel and after a year it is still firmly attached.
Carl Froehlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frazier, Vincent A
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 7:48 AM
Subject: RV-List: nose wheel shimmy and other tire balance issues -
balancing beads
SNIP Subject: Re: RV-List: Nose wheel pant vertical oscillation
Thanks to you and others who replied.? Will try some things and report.? Do
not
archive...... Out of round is obvious if you place a stick or pen close to
the tire and observe the separation as the tire slowly rotates.
......
Balance using adhesive backed weights you can get from
places like motorcycle shops SNIP
I have often wondered if the balancing beads that are used in motorcycles,
trucks, and RVs (the motorhomes, not the planes) would provide any benefit
for balance issues seen in our planes? I'd experiment with it on my
plane... if I had an issue that needed it!
If anyone out there has REAL experience with these beads, please report
back.
Not to start a war, but please spare us the "I heard...." or "IMHO, the
beads are...." comments. Those only muddy the waters.
Has anyone actually used this product and did it help?
Vince
Message 3
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| Subject: | Where Do I Install The Fuel Flow Transducer |
Hi Folks
I am working on the installation of the of the fuel flow transducer
on my angle valve Lycoming. I have the standard EI FT-60 red cube
which I purchased through
Advanced Flight Systems. I am struggling as to where is the best
location to mount this unit.
Their manual suggests 3 locations, (page 59);
1/ The transducer may be mounted in a stationary position in line
between the electric boost pump and the engine driven pump.
2/ The transducer may be mounted in a stationary position in line
between the fuel injection servo and the distribution block, aka, spider.
3/ The transducer may be mounted in a stationary position in line
between the engine driven pump and the carburetor, I assume this
could also mean the fuel injection servo.
My thoughts:
Option 1/ On the RV-8, there is a lot of unused room in the left
footwell area & could easily be mounted on the output of the electric
pump aft of the firewall. Lots of room, cool area, good environment
for the transducer. Can easily put the 5" of straight line before &
after the unit as per their instructions. Electrical wiring would
not have to go through the firewall. Down side in my mind is that
there is an orifice of about 5/32" in order to direct the fuel flow
at the paddle wheel. During normal operations, the mechanical fuel
pump would have to suck through that rather small orifice in a 3/8"
fuel line. Problem? I am not sure.
Option 2/ I have seen that mounted basically between cylinders # 1 &
# 3. Possibly hand it directly from the spider itself & would make a
reasonably neat installation. Downside: Pretty hot area especially
right after shutdown - not an ideal environment for the
transducer. Quite a bit of vibration there of course & 2 joints
would be added i.e the hose would have to be split here. 5" of
straight line before & after would be difficult & would actually put
the unit almost dead centre between the cylinders. Option 2 & 3
would put the unit on the pressure side of the mechanical or the
electrical pump at all times easing my small orifice concern.
Option 3/ Still in a hot area but not as bad as Option 2 assuming
heat shields around the exhaust pipe is used. 5" straight rule would
be replaced by 5" of gently curving lines. Not as nice an
environment obviously as Option 1.
Sure would like some opinions on this one. Sorry about the detail.
Thanks very much.
Brian Cross
RV-8
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Where Do I Install The Fuel Flow Transducer |
Hi Brian,
I haven't actually run with this configuration, but attached are some photos of
my installation. I have two 201b transducers, one for the GRT EIS4000 and another
for the Matronics FuelChec DX. I might have been able to share the signal,
but I preferred to just have completely separate units. I put them on the
output of the electric fuel pump after a generous length of tubing. I'm running
the high-pressure fuel pump for the IO-390 engine. The transducer reading
stability is a lot less of an issue on the injected installations.
I also built an enclosure around the fuel pump area so that I could carpet over
that area.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Mounting Ailerons & Flaps...
At 07:35 AM 6/20/2009 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>Hi Folks
>
>I am working on the installation of the of the fuel flow transducer on my angle
valve Lycoming. I have the standard EI FT-60 red cube which I purchased through
>Advanced Flight Systems. I am struggling as to where is the best location to
mount this unit.
>
>Their manual suggests 3 locations, (page 59);
>
>1/ The transducer may be mounted in a stationary position in line between the
electric boost pump and the engine driven pump.
>
>2/ The transducer may be mounted in a stationary position in line between the
fuel injection servo and the distribution block, aka, spider.
>
>3/ The transducer may be mounted in a stationary position in line between the
engine driven pump and the carburetor, I assume this could also mean the fuel
injection servo.
>
>My thoughts:
>
>Option 1/ On the RV-8, there is a lot of unused room in the left footwell area
& could easily be mounted on the output of the electric pump aft of the firewall.
Lots of room, cool area, good environment for the transducer. Can easily
put the 5" of straight line before & after the unit as per their instructions.
Electrical wiring would not have to go through the firewall. Down side in
my mind is that there is an orifice of about 5/32" in order to direct the fuel
flow at the paddle wheel. During normal operations, the mechanical fuel pump
would have to suck through that rather small orifice in a 3/8" fuel line. Problem?
I am not sure.
>
>Option 2/ I have seen that mounted basically between cylinders # 1 & # 3. Possibly
hand it directly from the spider itself & would make a reasonably neat
installation. Downside: Pretty hot area especially right after shutdown - not
an ideal environment for the transducer. Quite a bit of vibration there of
course & 2 joints would be added i.e the hose would have to be split here. 5"
of straight line before & after would be difficult & would actually put the unit
almost dead centre between the cylinders. Option 2 & 3 would put the unit
on the pressure side of the mechanical or the electrical pump at all times easing
my small orifice concern.
>
>Option 3/ Still in a hot area but not as bad as Option 2 assuming heat shields
around the exhaust pipe is used. 5" straight rule would be replaced by 5" of
gently curving lines. Not as nice an environment obviously as Option 1.
>
>Sure would like some opinions on this one. Sorry about the detail.
>
>Thanks very much.
>
>Brian Cross
>RV-8
Message 5
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Where Do I Install The Fuel Flow Transducer |
Brian,
I have mine mounted in the option 3 location on my RV-8's angle valve
IO360. I have 460 hours on the airplane and the transducer has worked
well and provides accurate readings. I wrapped the transducer in fire
sleeve and then wrapped that in metal tape. That may be overkill but
so far so good. But who knows, tomorrow it could crap out.
Rick McBride
On Jun 20, 2009, at 10:35 AM, Brian Cross wrote:
>
> Hi Folks
>
> I am working on the installation of the of the fuel flow transducer
> on my angle valve Lycoming. I have the standard EI FT-60 red cube
> which I purchased through
> Advanced Flight Systems. I am struggling as to where is the best
> location to mount this unit.
>
> Their manual suggests 3 locations, (page 59);
>
> 1/ The transducer may be mounted in a stationary position in line
> between the electric boost pump and the engine driven pump.
>
> 2/ The transducer may be mounted in a stationary position in line
> between the fuel injection servo and the distribution block, aka,
> spider.
>
> 3/ The transducer may be mounted in a stationary position in line
> between the engine driven pump and the carburetor, I assume this
> could also mean the fuel injection servo.
>
> My thoughts:
>
> Option 1/ On the RV-8, there is a lot of unused room in the left
> footwell area & could easily be mounted on the output of the
> electric pump aft of the firewall. Lots of room, cool area, good
> environment for the transducer. Can easily put the 5" of straight
> line before & after the unit as per their instructions. Electrical
> wiring would not have to go through the firewall. Down side in my
> mind is that there is an orifice of about 5/32" in order to direct
> the fuel flow at the paddle wheel. During normal operations, the
> mechanical fuel pump would have to suck through that rather small
> orifice in a 3/8" fuel line. Problem? I am not sure.
>
> Option 2/ I have seen that mounted basically between cylinders # 1
> & # 3. Possibly hand it directly from the spider itself & would
> make a reasonably neat installation. Downside: Pretty hot area
> especially right after shutdown - not an ideal environment for the
> transducer. Quite a bit of vibration there of course & 2 joints
> would be added i.e the hose would have to be split here. 5" of
> straight line before & after would be difficult & would actually put
> the unit almost dead centre between the cylinders. Option 2 & 3
> would put the unit on the pressure side of the mechanical or the
> electrical pump at all times easing my small orifice concern.
>
> Option 3/ Still in a hot area but not as bad as Option 2 assuming
> heat shields around the exhaust pipe is used. 5" straight rule
> would be replaced by 5" of gently curving lines. Not as nice an
> environment obviously as Option 1.
>
>
> Sure would like some opinions on this one. Sorry about the detail.
>
> Thanks very much.
>
>
> Brian Cross
> RV-8
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: nose wheel shimmy and other tire balance issue |
> I installed the MATCO nose wheel axle on my 8A.
Someone posted somthing similar/identical to this in the last year.
I lost the link to the item and did not see the appropriate item
in Aircraft Spruce.
Could you provide a link to the proper item?
Ron Lee
Message 8
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| Subject: | Where Do I Install The Fuel Flow Transducer |
I did option #2 on my 8A. To mitigate the heat issue I put fire sleeve over
the transducer - extending a few inches beyond the transducer in both
directions. The fire sleeve also provided a cushion to bundle the now
transducer/fuel line to spider assembly to other runs under the right
cylinders (alternator lead also in fire sleeve, etc.). The hose from the
spider to the transducer is long enough to make a slow curve such that the
transducer inlet and outlet ports are horizontal. This way the transducer
is not hanging on the spider (I did not like the mechanical issue for that),
and it enabled a reasonably smooth if not straight sections of hose for the
transducer. I find the fuel flow accuracy to be consistently within a
fraction of a gallon when filling the tanks. 500 hrs on the engine and all
is well.
I have seen other installs such as the transducer on the firewall and these
seem to work as well. For the RV-10 the transducer in mounted on the cabin
side of the firewall just after the boost pump. I do not have personal
experience with this but some RV-10 projects report fuel flow changes
with/without boost pump, etc. Considering the simplicity of this install
option however I plan on the same place for my RV-10.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A
RV-10 (fuselage)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Cross
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 10:36 AM
Subject: RV-List: Where Do I Install The Fuel Flow Transducer
Hi Folks
I am working on the installation of the of the fuel flow transducer
on my angle valve Lycoming. I have the standard EI FT-60 red cube
which I purchased through
Advanced Flight Systems. I am struggling as to where is the best
location to mount this unit.
Their manual suggests 3 locations, (page 59);
1/ The transducer may be mounted in a stationary position in line
between the electric boost pump and the engine driven pump.
2/ The transducer may be mounted in a stationary position in line
between the fuel injection servo and the distribution block, aka, spider.
3/ The transducer may be mounted in a stationary position in line
between the engine driven pump and the carburetor, I assume this
could also mean the fuel injection servo.
My thoughts:
Option 1/ On the RV-8, there is a lot of unused room in the left
footwell area & could easily be mounted on the output of the electric
pump aft of the firewall. Lots of room, cool area, good environment
for the transducer. Can easily put the 5" of straight line before &
after the unit as per their instructions. Electrical wiring would
not have to go through the firewall. Down side in my mind is that
there is an orifice of about 5/32" in order to direct the fuel flow
at the paddle wheel. During normal operations, the mechanical fuel
pump would have to suck through that rather small orifice in a 3/8"
fuel line. Problem? I am not sure.
Option 2/ I have seen that mounted basically between cylinders # 1 &
# 3. Possibly hand it directly from the spider itself & would make a
reasonably neat installation. Downside: Pretty hot area especially
right after shutdown - not an ideal environment for the
transducer. Quite a bit of vibration there of course & 2 joints
would be added i.e the hose would have to be split here. 5" of
straight line before & after would be difficult & would actually put
the unit almost dead centre between the cylinders. Option 2 & 3
would put the unit on the pressure side of the mechanical or the
electrical pump at all times easing my small orifice concern.
Option 3/ Still in a hot area but not as bad as Option 2 assuming
heat shields around the exhaust pipe is used. 5" straight rule would
be replaced by 5" of gently curving lines. Not as nice an
environment obviously as Option 1.
Sure would like some opinions on this one. Sorry about the detail.
Thanks very much.
Brian Cross
RV-8
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: nose wheel shimmy and other tire balance issue |
I think I just found it at the Matco website. Is this it:
http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
Ron lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee@pcisys.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: nose wheel shimmy and other tire balance issue
>> I installed the MATCO nose wheel axle on my 8A.
>
> Someone posted somthing similar/identical to this in the last year.
> I lost the link to the item and did not see the appropriate item
> in Aircraft Spruce.
>
> Could you provide a link to the proper item?
>
> Ron Lee
Message 10
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| Subject: | nose wheel shimmy and other tire balance issue |
That's it. The spacers are only needed for the RV-10 install.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: nose wheel shimmy and other tire balance issue
I think I just found it at the Matco website. Is this it:
http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
Ron lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee@pcisys.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: nose wheel shimmy and other tire balance issue
>> I installed the MATCO nose wheel axle on my 8A.
>
> Someone posted somthing similar/identical to this in the last year.
> I lost the link to the item and did not see the appropriate item
> in Aircraft Spruce.
>
> Could you provide a link to the proper item?
>
> Ron Lee
Message 11
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| Subject: | Application/Parts Info |
I have a Kelly Electro Systems Alternator on an O-320-B. The alternator PN
: ALY8520R (12V)
SN: D122515. I've gone to the website to get a Voltage Regulator/OverVolta
ge cross reference/PN and Wiring Diagram with little success. Any suggestio
ns? Thanks in advance.
R.C.
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail=AE has ever-growing storage! Don=92t worry about storage limits.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tuto
rial_Storage_062009
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: nose wheel shimmy and other tire balance issues - balancing |
beads
Vince,
My following comments are based entirely on personal experience over
many years and numerous aircraft, during which the results were
consistent in every case!
The static balancing I do is on a set of knife-edge level tracks upon
which I place the wheel assembly (with it's bearings installed) onto a
shaft of the same diameter as the aircraft's wheel axle.
The shaft is longer than the distance between the knife edges so that
each end of the shaft extends a couple of inches beyond to assure the
shaft and wheel assembly will not accidentally fall off the tracks.
The assembly is allowed to find its heavy spot by oscillating back and
forth until it eventually comes to rest. The topmost point on the wheel
rim is then marked and one or more 1/4 ounce sticky back weights
available from most any tire shop or commercial wheel balancing facility
are applied to the inside surface of the rim at that point. When
possible, I put weights on both sides of the rim opposite each other to
also maintain balance laterally. Repeat this process until the wheel
will stay stationary at any rotational position you turn it to. The 1/4
ounce weights can also be cut in half, or smaller, if needed to achieve
perfect balance.
My experience has been that all wheel vibration and/or alleged shimmy
problems are simply out of balance tires/tubes and if carefully and
inexpensively balanced as described above, the problem disappears until
the next set of tires/tubes are mounted. By balancing new tire/wheel
assemblies before mounting them on the airplane you can then forget
about having problems for the natural life of the rubber.
P.S. Some brands of tires are much better in balance than others when new!!
Jim McCulley
==================================================================================================s
Frazier, Vincent A wrote:
> SNIP Subject: Re: RV-List: Nose wheel pant vertical oscillation ((SNIP))
> If anyone out there has REAL experience with these beads, please report back.
> Not to start a war, but please spare us the "I heard...." or "IMHO, the beads
are...." comments.
Those only muddy the waters.>
> Has anyone actually used this product and did it help?>
> Vince ((SNIP))
=================================================================================================
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