Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:56 AM - closing up fuel tank (thomas sargent)
2. 09:51 AM - Re: closing up fuel tank (David E. Nelson)
3. 12:05 PM - Re: closing up fuel tank (Matt Dralle)
4. 12:33 PM - Re: closing up fuel tank (David E. Nelson)
5. 01:26 PM - Re: closing up fuel tank (John Morgensen)
6. 02:25 PM - Re: closing up fuel tank (RICHARD MILLER)
7. 05:28 PM - Re: Hooker Rotary Harness Installation (MLWynn@aol.com)
8. 06:00 PM - Re: Hooker Rotary Harness Installation (Tailgummer@aol.com)
9. 06:09 PM - Re: closing up fuel tank (Charlie England)
10. 07:10 PM - Re: Hooker Rotary Harness Installation (Bret Smith)
Message 1
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| Subject: | closing up fuel tank |
Last night I closed up my left tank - screwed on the big plate with the fuel
pickup and mounted the fuel level probe. Is there an easy way to test this
for leaks without actually putting fuel in it?
Advice for those who are contemplating doing this soon:
I used the 3.5 oz "caulking tube" style package of sealant.
1- buy the caulking gun van's offers. It speeds thing up and will make it a
little neater. (I didn't!). You can't use a hardware store caulking gun
because the disk on the end of the plunger is a little too big - really
annoying. You could modify it with a smaller disk - about 1/8" or 1/4"
smaller in diameter ought to do it.
2- Get everything ready and work fast: I stupidly did not notice (or had
forgotten since I bought the stuff a couple months ago) that it has only a
1/2 hour working time. There was enough there to do both tanks, but after I
did the first tank it set and that was that. The quart can has 2-hours
working time. I don't know why they would even bother to make 1/2 hour. What
does it buy you? This is a reason not to buy the 3.5 oz tube, although the
quart costs more than twice as much as the tube.
Frustrating.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: closing up fuel tank |
Hi Tom,
You can use a water manometer and pressure test to 1 PSI.
http://caura.dyndns.org/gallery/Right-Wing/afc
The level will change with changes in temperature and baro pressures. After
pressurizing your tank, let it sit for a couple of minutes to allow the system
to stabilize. You'll know pretty quick (with in minutes if not seconds) if
there's any leak.
If there's a leak and you can't hear it, mix up a solution of dish soap (Dawn is
preferred since it's very mild) and water in a spray bottle and spray all sealed
areas.
PS - You can add a drop or two food coloring to add some contrast to the water
in the manometer.
Good luck,
/\/elson
~~ Lately my memory seems to be like a steel trap .... without any spring. ~~
On Tue, 28 Jul 2009, thomas sargent wrote:
> Last night I closed up my left tank - screwed on the big plate with the fuel
pickup and mounted the fuel level probe. Is there an easy way to test this for
leaks without actually putting fuel
> in it?
>
>
> Advice for those who are contemplating doing this soon:
> I used the 3.5 oz "caulking tube" style package of sealant.
>
> 1- buy the caulking gun van's offers. It speeds thing up and will make it a
little neater. (I didn't!). You can't use a hardware store caulking gun because
the disk on the end of the plunger
> is a little too big - really annoying. You could modify it with a smaller disk
- about 1/8" or 1/4" smaller in diameter ought to do it.
>
> 2- Get everything ready and work fast: I stupidly did not notice (or had forgotten
since I bought the stuff a couple months ago) that it has only a 1/2 hour
working time. There was enough
> there to do both tanks, but after I did the first tank it set and that was that.
The quart can has 2-hours working time. I don't know why they would even
bother to make 1/2 hour. What does it
> buy you? This is a reason not to buy the 3.5 oz tube, although the quart costs
more than twice as much as the tube.
>
> Frustrating.
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: closing up fuel tank |
At 08:53 AM 7/28/2009 Tuesday, you wrote:
>Last night I closed up my left tank - screwed on the big plate with the fuel pickup
and mounted the fuel level probe. Is there an easy way to test this for
leaks without actually putting fuel in it?
>
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
Hi Tom,
I'm just about ready to close the ends on my RV-8 fuel tanks. I talked with Tom
Green via email regarding some questions I had. Among other things, he recommended:
1) *Not* using the cork gaskets for the cover plate or the sender.
2) Just using Proseal to form an in-place gasket for them.
3) Pressure testing the tank after the plate went on.
Seems like you could use the same latex-glove/soap-n-water technique to find any
leaks. Less messy than filling with gas.
The only problem is that I would really like to calibrate/test the capacitance
fuel level senders now. But the only way to do that is to fill them up with 100LL.
Guess I just have to wait, although its really going to suck if there is
a problem with the sender later.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: closing up fuel tank |
Aahh, proseal .... which reminds me. Van's has a service buletin out for the
pickups w/in the tanks:
SB 06-2-23 - All models except RV-10 - Safetying of standard and flop-type fuel
pickup tubes
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb06-2-23.pdf
It's not impossible to get back in w/ prosealed covers, but it's a lot easier
before you proseal the covers. ;)
Regards,
/\/elson
~~ Lately my memory seems to be like a steel trap .... without any spring. ~~
On Tue, 28 Jul 2009, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> At 08:53 AM 7/28/2009 Tuesday, you wrote:
>> Last night I closed up my left tank - screwed on the big plate with the fuel
pickup and mounted the fuel level probe. Is there an easy way to test this for
leaks without actually putting fuel in it?
>>
>> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
>
> Hi Tom,
>
> I'm just about ready to close the ends on my RV-8 fuel tanks. I talked with
Tom Green via email regarding some questions I had. Among other things, he recommended:
>
> 1) *Not* using the cork gaskets for the cover plate or the sender.
>
> 2) Just using Proseal to form an in-place gasket for them.
>
> 3) Pressure testing the tank after the plate went on.
>
> Seems like you could use the same latex-glove/soap-n-water technique to find
any leaks. Less messy than filling with gas.
>
> The only problem is that I would really like to calibrate/test the capacitance
fuel level senders now. But the only way to do that is to fill them up with
100LL. Guess I just have to wait, although its really going to suck if there
is a problem with the sender later.
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: closing up fuel tank |
thomas sargent wrote:
> Last night I closed up my left tank - screwed on the big plate with
> the fuel pickup and mounted the fuel level probe. Is there an easy
> way to test this for leaks without actually putting fuel in it?
I used Vans kit:
Part Number = FUEL TANK TEST KIT
It is an AN fitting with a valve stem in it. Put a toy balloon on the
vent and the tire stem in the fuel line. Apply a SMALL amount of air
pressure to blow up the balloon. Mine held air for more than a week.
Test for leaks with soapy water.
John Morgensen
RV9A - wiring
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: closing up fuel tank |
i know that has been covered here, will go over it again. the reason the small
tubes come only in half is that any airline sheet metal guy would have blown
through that tube in about five minutes, and the labor costs make them a throw
away. you can extend them if you keep them cold don't take them below forty or
they will not mix.
to check for leaks, wait two days. it has taken this long to get here, you have
time. we wait In case you did not mix the sealant all the way. if it has not
kicked off after two days it won't kick.
seal the tank openings with the exception of the vent or fuel pick up it does not
mater, but you only need one. Next attach your freshly calibrated 0-5psig gage
and regulator to the fitting. fill the tank to one pound of pressure and and
dip it to look for leaks. but since you are working in your garage and probably
don't have that 500$ conbination of equipment. let do this for about 10$
turn your air compressor regulator down to as low as it will go.
attach a tee to the vent one leg up one leg down
to the top leg attach a hose with a needle valve to you compressor air line
to the bottom leg attach a hose about eight feet in lenght with a five foot loop
taped to a board. that is two and a half feet up and down. fill this hose with
water untill you have a foot and a half up both sides of the loop. do not use
more then a three foot tall loop as this is your pressure regulator. if you
blow water out of the loop you have too much pressure in the tank.
slowly open the needle valve untill the water level in the loop differs by two
feet. you now have pressurized the tank to one psig approx.
close needle valve. disconnect air line from compressor.
a twenty five % mixture of jhonsons baby shampoo and water sprayed on the tank
will show any leak. baby shampoo will not react with the alum and i will not say
that about all other soaps.
this level will change with temp so don't be freeked out if it is down in the morning.
rick
--- On Tue, 7/28/09, David E. Nelson <david.nelson@pobox.com> wrote:
> From: David E. Nelson <david.nelson@pobox.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: closing up fuel tank
> To: "rv-list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Date: Tuesday, July 28, 2009, 9:50 AM
> "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
>
> Hi Tom,
>
> You can use a water manometer and pressure test to 1 PSI.
>
> http://caura.dyndns.org/gallery/Right-Wing/afc
>
> The level will change with changes in temperature and baro
> pressures. After pressurizing your tank, let it sit
> for a couple of minutes to allow the system to
> stabilize. You'll know pretty quick (with in minutes
> if not seconds) if there's any leak.
>
> If there's a leak and you can't hear it, mix up a solution
> of dish soap (Dawn is preferred since it's very mild) and
> water in a spray bottle and spray all sealed areas.
>
> PS - You can add a drop or two food coloring to add some
> contrast to the water in the manometer.
>
> Good luck,
> /\/elson
>
> ~~ Lately my memory seems to be like a steel trap
> .... without any spring. ~~
>
> On Tue, 28 Jul 2009, thomas sargent wrote:
>
> > Last night I closed up my left tank - screwed on the
> big plate with the fuel pickup and mounted the fuel level
> probe. Is there an easy way to test this for leaks
> without actually putting fuel
> > in it?
> >
> >
> > Advice for those who are contemplating doing this
> soon:
> > I used the 3.5 oz "caulking tube" style package
> of sealant.
> > 1- buy the caulking gun van's offers. It speeds
> thing up and will make it a little neater. (I
> didn't!). You can't use a hardware store caulking gun
> because the disk on the end of the plunger
> > is a little too big - really annoying. You could
> modify it with a smaller disk - about 1/8" or 1/4" smaller
> in diameter ought to do it.
> >
> > 2- Get everything ready and work fast: I stupidly did
> not notice (or had forgotten since I bought the stuff a
> couple months ago) that it has only a 1/2 hour working
> time. There was enough
> > there to do both tanks, but after I did the first tank
> it set and that was that. The quart can has 2-hours
> working time. I don't know why they would even bother to
> make 1/2 hour. What does it
> > buy you? This is a reason not to buy the 3.5 oz
> tube, although the quart costs more than twice as much as
> the tube.
> > Frustrating.
> > --
> > Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> Forum -
> FAQ,
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> List Contribution Web Site -
> -Matt
> Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Hooker Rotary Harness Installation |
Hi Matt,
I just discussed this very subject with the Hooker rep at Osh. He said to
use a file or scotchbrite wheel to flatten it as much as necessary to fit
in. I haven't really dealt with the issue first hand, but that is what
they are telling me.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
In a message dated 7/27/2009 3:30:39 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
dralle@matronics.com writes:
Dear Listers,
I was looking at how the Hooker Harnesses were going to be installed and
noticed that the triangle mounting pieces have a small, "bushing" in the
hole where the bolt goes. The triangle piece is already about twice the
thickness of Vans standard belts and its a tight fit to get them squeezed into
the mounting forks. But with the bushing in there it seems impossible. Are
you suppose to just remove the bushing, or some how mash it down? I don't
get it...
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
=JulystepsfooterNO115)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Hooker Rotary Harness Installation |
Matt,
I removed the existing bushing and replaced it with a flush bushing
custom fit to the width of the triangular connector. Left is harness with Hooker
factory bushing, center shows custom made bushing to fit into right steel
harness connector:
This will allow the Hooker steel connector to fit into Van's clevis quite
easily.
John D
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: closing up fuel tank |
John Morgensen wrote:
> thomas sargent wrote:
>> Last night I closed up my left tank - screwed on the big plate with
>> the fuel pickup and mounted the fuel level probe. Is there an easy
>> way to test this for leaks without actually putting fuel in it?
> I used Vans kit:
>
> Part Number = FUEL TANK TEST KIT
>
> It is an AN fitting with a valve stem in it. Put a toy balloon on the
> vent and the tire stem in the fuel line. Apply a SMALL amount of air
> pressure to blow up the balloon. Mine held air for more than a week.
> Test for leaks with soapy water.
>
> John Morgensen
> RV9A - wiring
You can get the schrader valves at plumbing supply houses. Plumbers use
them to test natural gas lines. As others mentioned, a water manometer
allows extended duration tests and also serves as a the safety relief if
you overdo the pressure. The tank will probably leak air around the cap.
Vasoline works well to seal up air leaks around the cap. One advantage
(maybe the only advantage) to the cork gasket, if you use proseal on the
gasket instead of gluing the plate directly to the tank, is the ability
to cut the access plate off without destroying the plate. I did a
temporary installation of my access plates (just cork, no sealant) & did
a pressure test before permanently installing the plates. It obviously
leaked, but held air well enough to detect the areas in the rest of the
tank that needed attention.
Charlie
Message 10
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| Subject: | Hooker Rotary Harness Installation |
Matt,
I just took the bushing to the grinder and ground it down until it fit nice
and snug.
Bret Smith
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, Ga
www.FlightInnovations.com <http://www.flightinnovations.com/>
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tailgummer@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2009 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hooker Rotary Harness Installation
Matt,
I removed the existing bushing and replaced it with a flush bushing custom
fit to the width of the triangular connector. Left is harness with Hooker
factory bushing, center shows custom made bushing to fit into right steel
harness connector:
This will allow the Hooker steel connector to fit into Van's clevis quite
easily.
John D
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